garryatpa

Are you looking for any particular patterns or year of Hobbies patterns. I have number of Hobbies patterns/weekly magazines but I have not been able to go through them and put them into catagoies , etc. yet. I happened to get them from a friend who moved and stopped dong scrollsawing. The oldest pattern I have found so far goes back to about 1919. One thing I did notice is that the old patterns are mostly small - Kleenex box covers, letter holders, small shelves with birds, dresser mirrors, etc and wall hangings. Patrick Speilman's books have some of the old patterns , but I don't know how easy they are to find now since he has passed away. His scroll sawing handbook and other of his books were my guides through my early years of scroll sawing back in the mid 1980's . Does Hobbies (not sure of the name they go by now) sell some of the old patterns yet? Will have to start making a list of what I have and putting them into files. Garry

I have two 22" Hegners, one purchased new in 1993. I used the saw almost daily up until about 2012. Maintenance is minimal in that a few drops of oil on the bushings every 10 hours. The second Hegner is a 1996 model that I got on Kijiji in 2022. I have not used it very much yet. I have learned to listen to the saw as you use it and it will tell you when something needs attention. Example - the pivot pin for the front tension lever sometimes works loose and needs to be reset in its proper position. The back tension rod may work loose and need to be retensioned . Not enough tension causes the saw to run noisier. I have replaced the link connecting the lower arm to the flywheel after about 15 years of sawing (twice). There was a bit of a knock when the link was starting to wear. I also have used the Dewalt 788. I find it more aggressive than the Hegner. Also when making sharp turns the Hegner is able to turn easier as the stroke is more vertical than the Dewalt; the Dewalt has a much more noticeable back and forth movement as the blade moves up and down and makes sharp turns more difficult. I have no experience with the Pegas so cannot really comment on it. I find the Hegner to be easy to use and quiet. Changing blades from one starting hole to another is quick, just a few seconds is required. The blade holders can be set up with different sized blades if required - I use a small magnet to hold the blade holder with blades installed set on the stand to the side of the saw. All in all I have not regretted spending a little more to get the Hegner and I would not hesitate to get another if needed. Garry

When I have done craft sales in the past I used a wire grid system that is also used in retail stores ( similar to Barb,s). Use a black cloth draped behind the display so the scroll sawn articles contrast and show up against the background. Connectors are available to join more than one wire panel so they can self support on the floor or tables depending on size of panels. This could be done using plywood cut to an appropriate size, painted black and covered on one side by chicken wire also painted black. Join panels by hinges. Tom, most scroll sawn work does not show very well against a white background . Maybe a frame could be made and attached to wall and chicken wire stretched across. These wire systems provide endless ways of displaying your scroll sawn work. When using fabric for backgrounds different colours can be used. All the best in your sales. Garry

An interesting discussion. Many changes in saws over the years. I started with a cheap Dremel Moto saw that used 3 inch pin blades. Very soon found out it was not the saw I wanted. Then moved on to a Delta 15 inch single speed direct drive. After using for a few months I found some information on how to make some modifications that made it easier to use. First I cut a slot in the table with hacksaw blades taped together similar to the Hegner . That made it great for changing /threading blades. The saw still ran too fast for my liking and had a lot of vibration. To slow it down I changed to a belt driven system. Mounted the saw and motor on 3/4 inch plywood. The motor was mounted at the back to the right of saw and a small 1 1/2 inch pulley attached to the motor shaft. Then I mounted a shaft on pillow blocks to the lower arm of the saw. A solid steel 3 inch pulley was attached to the shaft and a belt then from the motor to drive it. The steel pulley acted like a flywheel and smoothed out the vibration, while the difference in pulley sizes slowed the speed to where I was comfortable sawing. I used this until I wore the bushings in the arms out. I replaced the arms (you could actually get replacement arms at the time) , continued using it for a while and then decided after much browsing of books and magazines on scroll sawing that , if I was to continue I wanted a saw that would last. I ended up with the Hegner 22 inch which had just come out not long before (1993) and with regular oiling and replacing a couple of parts it still serves me with excellent results. Each saw has its own pluses and minuses and what you make is easier with one than the other. You get what you pay for, cheaper saws do not last , are noisey, vibrate, and you soon give up on scrolling . The better saws are quiet, smooth, easy to use and you can enjoy your scrolling experience for years as I have for over 30 years now, since about the mid 1980s. Garry

Sorry for the clarity of the pics as they are taken from 35mm prints that were a little fuzzy. The eagle pattern is from Southwest Scroll Saw Patterns by Patrick Spielman and Dan Kihl 1994. The canoe scene is from a leather tooling book by Stohlman. The top two photos are sawn from slices of birch at the original size of the patterns ( about 8 x 5) while the bottom two are sawn from slices of deer antler; the same patterns reduced to about 1 1/2 x 1 inch. The canoe scene in birch is finished with satin waterbase varathane; the eagle is also finished with varathane but in I believe an oil base which changes the color of the wood. These were sawn probably 20+ years ago. The shadowbox frames are painted first with a black stain, then sprayed with speckle stone paint. Will add some more pics as I get started on the Heron. Garry

Quite a few years ago I used my scroll saw to saw antler using the same blades I use for wood. I cut maybe a dozen pieces. I found antler to have a strong smell and dust is very fine so you need a mask, air filter, and exhaust fans to to protect yourself. I first cut the deer antler into slices about an 1/8 inch thick and at an angle of 45 degrees to the line of the antler. I ended up with pieces about 2 to 4 inches long by 1 1/2 to 3 inches wide oval shaped. These were sawn from the lower area of the antler next to the head where the centre part is more solid material and the resulting piece is big enough for the pattern. The centre in other areas is quite porous and does not hold together well. I recently acquired some antler and am looking at sawing it. The Judy Gale Roberts pattern of the Great Blue Heron caught my eye as perfect for this. I plan on reducing the size of the pattern to approximately 1 1/2 x 1 inch (centre part of pattern). I will then glue the cutout to a black backing and frame in a shadowbox frame . Hopefully I will be able to get some pictures uploaded as I go through the process. Will be using a Hegner 22 variable speed saw that I have used for the last 30+ years (bought new in 1993). I would be interested in comments, suggestions, etc from those who have sawn antler , or not. Garry