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Archer

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  1. Archer
    Not that that's saying much. This is the third project I cut on the Scroll Saw but I've only just completed the rest of it. I'm very pleased with how it turned out and wanted to share. The pattern is a Steve Good design but I gave it a new frame/edging. Its hard to see in this image but the frame is paddle-pop sticks. My sister took the photo, she has a better camera than I do.
  2. Archer
    really cool
  3. Archer
    Made these animal magnets as Christmas gifts for friends this year. Most of the patterns are Steve Good designs and the rest were found by searching google images. Woods used include Bamboo - from cutting boards, Silky oak - a popular Aussie wood, Peach wood, an exotic Tasmanian wood offcut from when my neighbours built their veranda and an unknown but flimsy wood useless for almost everything but very easy to cut. They are finished with a single coat of an oil-based finish brushed on then wiped off. The magnets are countersunk.
  4. Archer
    Thank you.
  5. Archer
    hey're for making quick notes, i.e., grocery lists, telephone #'s, etc... We've had ours on our kitchen wall for about 15 years, would be lost without it... That's a really cool idea. Where do you get the paper rolls from? and is the pattern available anywhere? Thanks.
  6. Archer
    Tracing paper works for me. A cheaper alterative is rolls of baking paper. Its exactly the same product. Lay the baking paper over your design and trace it with a soft pencil. Turn the baking paper upside down and rub the flat of the pencil heavily over the design. Turn the baking paper right side up on your primed wood and trace the design with a stylus or hard pencil. This works on un-primed light coloured wood as well but it doesn't work well on darker woods. Taping the baking paper down anytime you are tracing improves accuracy. Hope this helps.
  7. Archer
    Glad to be able to help.
  8. Archer
    My advice would be to experiment on scrap wood. Take the finish and pour some into disposable cups. Most finishes I use recommend a thinner on the side of the tin/jar/can. Mix different amounts/types of thinner into each cup and paint on the scrap wood. Keep notes and label everything so you remember whats what. I've found most oil-based finishes thin nicely with mineral turps but I'm no expert. Don't take my word for it. Water-based finishes can usually be thinned with water, but again experiment on scrap wood first. I hope someone finds this useful. Happy scroll sawing.
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