Search the Community

While reading the thread on bearing lubrication, I was wondering about the ball bearing numbers and letters. I found that each number and letter have specific meaning. I am attaching brief info on decoding the ball bearing numbers. Some may already know this but may be useful to others.

This is my latest "Barn Find" that needed a little love. (a tutorial on how to re-pack a bearing with new grease)

Over 3 years ago and as a newbie, my new Sears scroll saw broke. I found a Dewalt 788 Type 1 on Craigslist and was a happy camper for a long time. How much use it had before was unknown. Over time the noise of the saw increased and I read all the threads about 788 repairs here and watch the You-tube videos on the subject a couple of times. Not being a mechanic I admit to being kind of intimidated to tackle doing a rebuild. Since new saws were not in the budget and lately CL has lots of $50.00 Craftsman, a couple of $1000 Hegners, and Dewalts at $500 and up (really?? for a used machine that is going for $490 at Home Depot?). It was time to dive into DIY repairs. I studied the videos until I almost had them memorized. Ordered sleeves from e-replacements and bearings (INA brand) from my local distributor Bearings Inc. They are less then 10 miles for me and were very helpful – great service. The job is done and the saw has quieted WAY down. Just kind of purrs. My observations: Should have done this much sooner! Not that there were any big issues, just that after 15-20 years of life everything was slightly warn. I found nothing nearly as bad as what was shown on the vids. The parts lists that are on other threads here, seem for type 2 machines and there are some differences in part numbers. If you have a Type 1, verify your part numbers. The videos show using the new bearing to push out the old one in one operation. Bearings Inc people told me to do it in two steps. Push out the old one and than install the new. Their reasoning was the the side with the part numbers on the bearings is hardened steel and the opposite side is not. Pushing on that side could deform the bearing and shorten its life. I have know idea if that is true or not. Going forward, I will be doing a disassembly and applying new grease probably every year.So my recommend that if you have a Dewalt that is less than ideal, be braver that I was and go for it. I have a like new saw at a cost of about $150 in parts.