Question about glues.........

[Scrolling Steve]

OK, with fear and trepidation I am working on my first piece of Intarisa.....I would like to know what kind of glue or adhesive you Intarsia folks use for putting the pieces together?......Is wood glue like Titebond OK or do you use special quick set glues?.....Any help will be appreciated! Steve.

[scrollerpete]

I used Titebond II and III and never had any problem.

[Scrappile]

I'm sure Titebond would do the job with no problem.  Keep in mind I have not done much intarsia, only a couple little pieces.

[tomsteve]

not sure if tightbond is used or intarsia, but it seems a lot of woodworkers use it. i use it and love it.the III has a longer working time than the II.

[Bpardue]

All I do is intarsia, I use, Arlene's Tacky glue when gluing pieces together that does not have any finish on them yet. I use CA glue & tightbond to glue the backs on.

[Scrolling Steve]

All I do is intarsia, I use, Arlene's Tacky glue when gluing pieces together that does not have any finish on them yet. I use CA glue & tightbond to glue the backs on.

Brian, Where you you find Arlene's Tacky glue ?....Hobby shops?

[trailfndr]

When I assemble, I do so on a piece of wax paper, a thin coat of Titebond to edge glue the pieces.  Making sure to keep it flat on the table.  I cut my backing after the assembly dries, and glue the backing with Tightbond.  Before attaching the back, I will use several drops of CA glue to act as a clamp so I don't need to clamp things.

 

Like Brian, all I really do is Intarsia, and this has worked well for me the past 3 years.

[dgman]

I also use Aleen's tacky glue. It holds without clamping and sets up fast.

You can find it at hobby shops and craft stores like Michael's and Joanne's.

[Scrolling Steve]

Thanks for the input folks.......I have learned a a few things!.......Thanks again!

[ChelCass]

You can find Alene's glue at Walmarts, Hobby Lobby and Michaels and pretty much any store that sells glue.  I have even seen it at Ace hardware and True Value, menards, lowes and home depot.

[Frank Pellow]

I have yet to try intarsia, but I do use a glue that I think would be perfect for the job.  It's Lepage NO More Clamp white wood glue.  All one needs to do is to apply the glue then hold the parts together for a minute or so.  The label claims only 10 seconds is needed but I have never been brave enough to try that.  Other good things about this glue is that it easy to clean up both before and after drying and it dries clear.

[amazingkevin]

I just use what ever is around

 

OK, with fear and trepidation I am working on my first piece of Intarisa.....I would like to know what kind of glue or adhesive you Intarsia folks use for putting the pieces together?......Is wood glue like Titebond OK or do you use special quick set glues?.....Any help will be appreciated! Steve.

[Malcolm161]

I am looking to start Intarsia this year but not done any yet, just been making boxes for 2years since starting woodwork.  Kathgy Wise book on Intasia for beginners has the following:

Q: How do you use CA glue when sanding ?
A: For a nice flowing contour, you will want to sand some pieces together as one (for example: the neck of a horse). Then you can take the pieces apart and sand each piece a bit more.  My favorite method is to use Instant T Glue (CA) ...it is very fast and easy.  I use it 90 % of the time.  Put two or three small dots of instant T Glue on one side of your two pieces. Spray with accelerator and fit back together on top of a very flat surface covered with wax paper. As you are holding it together, twist it as it dries. Twisting will prevent it from sticking to the paper. It will only take about 15 seconds to dry completely so you have to work quickly. Add on other parts one at a time. Now your piece is glued together and you can sand the contour you wish. To take the pieces apart, simply rap the pieces on a hard surface and they will break apart. If you can't break it back into two pieces easily, you used to much glue and will have to re-cut it apart. Don't breath the fumes as you cut. Practice on some scrap wood before you try it out. Small, fragile or delicate pieces can not be used with this method.  Once you get good at using the glue method you may never make another shim.

 

Hope this helps........ http://www.kathywise.com/QandA2.html

 

Malcolm

http://www.badgerwoodcrafters.co.uk

Edited January 16, 2016 by Malcolm161

[Phantom Scroller]

Ok while we are on the subject of titebond II & III what is the difference between drying times on both as I've never used them. ?? Roly

[Bpardue]

Malcolm,

Using CA glue to temporally adhere pieces together for sanding purposes works really well, I use that same method as well as cutting a sanding shim and applying double sided tape to hold the pieces to the shim. I don't like using the CA glue to assemble the final product as CA sets up way to fast. In the final glue-up you may need to shift a few pieces around. Trust me CA sets too fast, I already bought that T-shirt, and had to cut all the pieces loose & start over.

What i like about Arlene's tack glue is it is thicker than Titebond which will help make up the difference of the Kerf cut of the blade.

It also sets up fairly quick. I can handle the piece within an about a hour. It also dries clear.

Brian 

[Malcolm161]

Thanks Brian,

 

all tips will help when someone is looking into the art.  I have only ever used Titebond III apart from the odd superglue for handles on boxes, so this glue variation is interesting, particularly when one name is sometimes the same glue as another.

 

Malcolm

[Phantom Scroller]

 

Ok while we are on the subject of titebond II & III what is the difference between drying times on both as I've never used them. ?? Roly

 

 

 

Ok while we are on the subject of titebond II & III what is the difference between drying times on both as I've never used them. ?? Roly

oh am I repeating myself....

Edited January 16, 2016 by Phantom Scroller

[Malcolm161]

THis may help Roly 

 

http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx

 

Malcolm

[Phantom Scroller]

Thanks Mal.

                       I'll have a good read of that and might buy some to try it out as I use Evo stik wood glue and spray glue at the moment plus gorilla glue to fill any gaps like my pens etc.

Edited January 16, 2016 by Phantom Scroller

[scrollerpete]

 

 

Ok while we are on the subject of titebond II & III what is the difference between drying times on both as I've never used them. ?? Roly

 

 

 

Ok while we are on the subject of titebond II & III what is the difference between drying times on both as I've never used them. ?? Roly

oh am I repeating myself....

 

I don't find any difference between the two, except Titebond III is water proof so you apply if the items are to go outside or wash with water.

[Phantom Scroller]

I don't find any difference between the two, except Titebond III is water proof so you apply if the items are to go outside or wash with water.

Thanks Pete I'll have to buy some and try it.  Roly

[Jim Finn]

I use Elmers white glue for anything that will never get water on it.  It is cheap ($16 a gallon) and dries clear.  I apply the intarsia pieces directly together and onto the backing, with white glue, as I assemble it.

[Sycamore67]

On complicated pieces, I like an Elmers wood glue with long enough set time to get pieces arranged best. Kathy Wise suggested also suggested a silicon tile type glue to help fill gaps.

 

Bottom line is that you can utilize different types of glue. As you gain experience, you will learn which type works best in different situations.

 

I use Elmers wood glue, two types of CA glue, hot glue and others. Some I use for temporary fitting and others for permanent.

[Scrolling Steve]

Thanks again for all your input folks !........Some good information here!