Flocking ?

[Sharon Camille Craig]

Does anyone know if you can successfully glue a piece to another piece that has been flocked? I'm doing a plaque that will have a back board but instead of painting it, I was wondering if I can flock it and then glue the top on. Thanks!

[tuner]

Not sure but if you can sand a little before glueing it should work. Make up a small test piece, glue/clamp then play "Conan the destroyer"

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Not really a good idea, unless you sand flat where it is you will be gluing. The fibers can come off and thus the glue joint will be weak. What is it you are trying to do. Perhaps a photo and maybe someone will be able to make a suggestion. 

[Bill WIlson]

I doubt the glue joint would be successful, long term.  Essentially you would be gluing the plaque to the flocking and not the backer.  Best practice is for glue joints to be bare wood to bare wood.  If the pattern allows, I would suggest taping off as many areas as practical, where the plaque covers the backer.  Once you've flocked the backer, remove the tape and you would have bare wood to apply glue to.  

[hawkeye10]

I have done flocking and it's latex paint that you paint on and put the flocking on while the paint is wet. That is the way I have done it. Just giving you a little history in case you don't know. My point is those flocking fibers are weak and they are sticking to dried latex paint which I think is weak. So yes as others have posted you need to get down to bare wood. You might be able to reflock it. Flocking is very easy to do. If I can do it I know it's easy.  

[Lucky2]

Sharon, the best way to do it, would be to use some tape to give you access to bare wood after flocking. Take a piece of painter tape, place it on the backer board where it won't be seen when the two pieces will be glued together. Once you've applied the tape, you can apply the adhesive and flocking. The flocking won't stick to the tape, this is what you want. Once the flocking has been done and given a chance to set up, you can then remove the tape revealing the bare wood. It is best if you bend the tape and fold it, so that there is a place to grab a hold of it to pull it off. I hope you understand what I'm trying to describe here, this is what works for me.

Len

[MrsN]

If the project is just a wall hanging plaque the glue bond won't need to be super-duper strong (compared to something that will be touched and stressed or a structural joint)

Still I don't think I would risk gluing straight to fibers and latex paint, although I might do a test piece like tuner suggested and play "Conan the destroyer" 

I would do like Lucky suggested and keep some little part of the backer clean. It wouldn't need to be a big piece for a backer, just a small spot that can get a real strong glue bond.

[Sharon Camille Craig]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.  I thought I probably couldn't do it that way, so, I will take the suggestions of applying the adhesive and flocking to only certain areas (around the sides, etc.).  This is what I'm working on now, but plan to do a large cross next and want to do the flocking for the back of it as well.

 

 

 

 

[Denny Knappen]

Looks like you got some good answers to your question.  Another member from TN.  Welcome Sharon.

[Sharon Camille Craig]

Hi Denny, yes, the land of 75 degrees one day and ice and snow the next.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Not to discourage you but i do not think you will get the look you are going for. The frets are too small to pick up on the furry look. Give it a try and just do not glue till you see what it looks like. good luck and keep us informed.

[Bill WIlson]

If you capture the plaque in a frame, you might not need to glue it to the backer at all.

[amazingkevin]

Does anyone know if you can successfully glue a piece to another piece that has been flocked? I'm doing a plaque that will have a back board but instead of painting it, I was wondering if I can flock it and then glue the top on. Thanks!

Try it on a test piece the same size to see how it holds up.