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Older Hegner Upgrade?


kmmcrafts

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Anyone here use this upgrade for the older Hegners that do not have the up front quick tension release? Just wondered because I somehow ran across this upgrade for the older saws that I didn't know they had... I have walked away from a lot of older Hegners that was a good deal because of only having the release done by turning the back tension screw to release and re tension.. which in my book is worthless for fretwork that I mostly do... Now. still having to reach back there to the back of the saw isn't all that pleasing.. but doable to just get my hands on a Hegner to play around with if I find the right deal on a older one worth the price of the saw and the upgrade LOL..

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/m14-e-m2-part-number-012l-quick-release-tension-rod-1

 

Edited by kmmcrafts
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12 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

Anyone here use this upgrade for the older Hegners that do not have the up front quick tension release? Just wondered because I somehow ran across this upgrade for the older saws that I didn't know they had... I have walked away from a lot of older Hegners that was a good deal because of only having the release done by turning the back tension screw to release and re tension.. which in my book is worthless for fretwork that I mostly do... Now. still having to reach back there to the back of the saw isn't all that pleasing.. but doable to just get my hands on a Hegner to play around with if I find the right deal on a older one worth the price of the saw and the upgrade LOL..

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/m14-e-m2-part-number-012l-quick-release-tension-rod-1

 

Kevin I converted a old 16" Craftsman rear tensioner using a piece of 1/4" steel rod and a cam lever from a bicycle seat clamp.   It works very well.   I believe allot of rear tension scroll saws could be made more user friendly using this concept.   The only drawback would be the size of the saw and the length of the users arms.   It works quite well for me on my 16" Craftsman backup saw.   

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1 hour ago, stoney said:

Kevin I converted a old 16" Craftsman rear tensioner using a piece of 1/4" steel rod and a cam lever from a bicycle seat clamp.   It works very well.   I believe allot of rear tension scroll saws could be made more user friendly using this concept.   The only drawback would be the size of the saw and the length of the users arms.   It works quite well for me on my 16" Craftsman backup saw.   

Well in looking at the video I seen last night.. ( I believe the same one Jim posted ) .. I thought it'd be easy to probably make up something on my own.. I have the opportunity to buy what I think is a 14" Hegner from 1984.. before the estate sale starts that I mentioned in another post.. Think I can probably get the saw for about $50.. not that I need another one but.. LOL always wanted a Hegner.. rather have a larger one with the release at the front..

 

I just got the call from them on the razertip pyrography set for $35  .. it's the single burner one but comes with a ton of pens etc.. anyway.. keep thinking about snagging the saw if the deal it good enough.. wish I had got there before the guys paster came and just took a boatload of the better stuff plus the guys Cadillac.. guess he didn't feel he had to pay for any of it either and from the sounds of it.. there are some that feel it was wrong.. I don't know the situation and maybe the guy owed the paster some money or something.. Guess that is what I get for not going sooner... as I knew about it for a couple weeks.. didn't figure there was a chance to get this kind of deals on the machines.. I thought the guy had some family that would be wanting high dollar for the stuff... turns out.. no family other than a mentally slow daughter that lives in a home.. 

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I have two Hegners with the tension relief in the back of the saw and even on my  old 1986, 25" saw I can reach it OK.  I like the Heger saws because they have durable induction motors.  I would not recommend a saw with induction motors for fretwork though.  The stopping and starting will kill the capacitor.  A universal motor can do the stop and staring required for fretwork much better.  (I do not do fretwork)   My saws are both bottom feeders so are not good for fretwork anyway.

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I do fretwork and bottom feeding is just fine!🤨  So does Charles Dearing.  Never heard about Hegner not being good for fretwork because of the motor.  I do fretwork on one also.  I doubt I do enough to worry about the motor in my lifetime, I also have a Seyco I do about equal amount on each. 

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