Smaller blades

[Foxfold]

My 'go to' blade is a 3, and very occasionally a 5, 

I have had a couple of pieces lately that would have benefitted from using a 2. However, no matter how I try I cannot control such a tiny blade. It seems to have a mind of it's own and I cannot for love nor money get it to stay on a my line.

Am I doing something wrong ? Perhaps too tight, not tight enough, too fast speed, not fast enough.

I always use ¼" ply for my cutting, perhaps this is the problem, but I have a lot of it and it's always free, so if this is the problem then so be it.

Just thought I'd ask.  Thanks xx 

[dgman]

Without knowing what blade brand and type you are using, I would say not enough tension. As far as I’m concerned, there is no reason for less tension on any blade, type or size. I always tension any blade to the saws max. Or at least till I get a high “ping” when I pluck it. 

[Rockytime]

Double up on the 1/4". Tension as tight as you can get it and slow down your saw. I use a #1 Pegas MG blade very often. Today I used a 2/0 Pegas MG for the first time. Wow. it flies!

[don watson]

I have used the Pegas 2/0 for a lot of cutting on 1/4" (or 5mm or 6mm) ply and didn't have the problem you are having.

I use a Lidl 16" scroll saw that cost almost £50 and have used/tried all sorts of blade makers and sizes. At present I use Pegas but I am waiting on a selection of Niqua blades from Hobbies.

I have taken out the #5 blade I was using and put in a #2/0 and when tensioned (pressing down the lever) IT BROKE.

I have to keep taking the tension up gently until I get that high pitched PING when I pluck it. I am sure you will break a few but it pays to persevere.

It doesn't take a lot to tension a #2/0 blade, just be careful. (And Good Luck).

Don W

 

Edited June 12, 2019 by don watson
Added a bit about Hobbies

[Wilson142]

I use #1, 2/0 and 3/0 spiral blades almost exclusively. I cut anything from 1/4" bb to 3/4 poplar and hardwoods. Some 3/4" puzzles but, mostly fret work. I run as much tension as I can. Recently I have switched to Pegus blades and find them much sharper and longer lasting than the FD blades I used to use.

[Foxfold]

3 hours ago, Wilson142 said:

I use #1, 2/0 and 3/0 spiral blades almost exclusively. I cut anything from 1/4" bb to 3/4 poplar and hardwoods. Some 3/4" puzzles but, mostly fret work. I run as much tension as I can. Recently I have switched to Pegus blades and find them much sharper and longer lasting than the FD blades I used to use.

Mmm, I don't use spiral blades, I have tried but I just seem to break them every few minutes... 

[bcdennis]

My go to is a #5 FDUR's.  I use #2's and #3's  for small ornaments and such.  I find that stack cutting with the smaller blade works so much better than using a single 1/4 board.  Also I slow the speed down to have more control. 

[Scrappile]

Hard for me to tell a person what blade to use.  So many variables.   I rarely use larger than a #3, and rarely use a #3.  But I do mostly fret work right now.  I think a person needs to bite the bullet and get a variety of blades, I have around 25 Types blades of different sizes, configurations and  manufactures.  Most I don't use much anymore as I narrow down the field.  But I still experiment and I will continue to try different ones as I go. 

For 1/4" plywood, I like the finer toothed ones, with some reverse teeth.  I never use over a #2 on 1/4". 

If you blade is wondering, I think you have a "Hegner" type saw, try tightening the tension a little.  I find I use more tension on my Hegner than I do on other saws.  Practice and experiment.....

[kmmcrafts]

33 minutes ago, Scrappile said:

Hard for me to tell a person what blade to use.  So many variables.   I rarely use larger than a #3, and rarely use a #3.  But I do mostly fret work right now.  I think a person needs to bite the bullet and get a variety of blades, I have around 25 Types blades of different sizes, configurations and  manufactures.  Most I don't use much anymore as I narrow down the field.  But I still experiment and I will continue to try different ones as I go. 

For 1/4" plywood, I like the finer toothed ones, with some reverse teeth.  I never use over a #2 on 1/4". 

If you blade is wondering, I think you have a "Hegner" type saw, try tightening the tension a little.  I find I use more tension on my Hegner than I do on other saws.  Practice and experiment.....

You said it very well, I have probably every blade size and style in my shop from Olsen , Flying Dutchman, and Pegas.. and I do actually use most of them from time to time.. however I do have my main go to blades.. and those go too blades are different even on the same type of project but each style of saw cuts differently.. What I use on the Hawk I don't typically use on the Excalibur or DeWalt.. 

I know it's not the answer most folks are looking for when they ask what blade is best.. but like i say.. each project and material will vary on blade use.. not to mention the different saws.. then top it all off with the comfort level one has with cutting fast / slow.. then also saw speed.. just way too many variables to answer these type questions.. I know it's pricey to buy a dozen of each style and brand of blade... but at the end of the day.. this is the best method to learn what works for you..and what doesn't work..

[Bill WIlson]

On 6/11/2019 at 6:17 PM, Foxfold said:

My 'go to' blade is a 3, and very occasionally a 5, 

I have had a couple of pieces lately that would have benefitted from using a 2. However, no matter how I try I cannot control such a tiny blade. It seems to have a mind of it's own and I cannot for love nor money get it to stay on a my line.

Am I doing something wrong ? Perhaps too tight, not tight enough, too fast speed, not fast enough.

I always use ¼" ply for my cutting, perhaps this is the problem, but I have a lot of it and it's always free, so if this is the problem then so be it.

Just thought I'd ask.  Thanks xx 

My go to blade is currently a #1 FDUR.  The smaller blades can seem like they don't track as consistently straight as larger blades, but some of that has to do with their physical size, I think.  The smaller the blade, the less that is in contact with the edge of the wood, so it makes it a little more difficult to control.  Think of it this way.  When you push wood through a 10" table saw blade, it's pretty hard for the blade to wander much from a straight line (at least not without bad things happening, but that's another discussion).  Take that same piece of wood and cut it on a band saw, with a 1/4" wide blade.  It's far easier to wander away from straight.  I think similar physics are at play with scroll saw blades, even though the difference in width is measured in thousandths of an inch.  It does make a difference.  If I'm cutting a pattern with a combination of long straight lines and lots of intricate detail, I sometimes will use a larger blade to cut the long straight lines, because it's easier for me to stay on the line than the blade I'm using to cut the fine detail.  It's not something I do all the time, but I do notice a distinct difference between, say a #5 and a #1 or #2/0 blade.

Also, I have come across blades that, for some reason, are more prone to wandering than other blades, even those in the same pack.  I have no idea why this happens, as I presume they are all manufactured as part of the same batch, but it does happen.  And then, there have been several guys who have experienced control problems with the FDSR #2/0 blade.  Over they years it has been commented on a number of times by different people.  I've had the same problem and don't use FDSR #2/0 blades for that reason.

SO, not sure any of that is helpful.  I would try more tension.  I think smaller blades suffer more from lack of tension than larger ones. But that's only a theory.  Slow down the blade speed and your feed rate until you get comfortable.  Might just be that you need to get used to how the smaller size blades cut, then you will be fine.  I don't think your 1/4" ply is the problem, especially if you've had no control problems with other blades.

[crupiea]

I usually cut 1/8" bb and use a 2/0 blade.  

Sometimes i will cut some 1/4" with that same thing but it is pushing it.   I have some 1/0 blades that work better.  of course the 3 and 5 work just fine. 

Funny that i also use 3/0 blades but they will always tear out the wood on the bottom so even though it is indiscernible to the eye, there is a bit of difference between the blades that causes this. 

I would suggest playing with the tension and speed like stated above.  Also the rate that you push the wood through makes a difference as you know. 

[tomsteve]

foxfold, if its possible,slow the saw speed down some. it can help to control the smaller blades as ya learn how they cut. and let the blade do the work-if ya let pressure of the workpiece while its cutting and the workpiece springs back a bit, thats too much feed pressure.

Edited June 19, 2019 by tomsteve

[LarryEA]

Brenda, what #2 do you use? There are so many and each cuts differntly.

You can find #2's in Crown tooth, skip tooth, reverse skip.... They vary in thickness from

    .022   to  .030 

The thicker controls better.

 

 

Edited July 21, 2019 by LarryEA