How do you deal with messy cuts?

[Harry Barton]

Here's the underside of a piece of fast-grown softwood that I cut with an Olson No. 5 skip-tooth blade and as you can see, it's not the cleanest of cuts.

What's the generally accepted way to address this?  Prevention presumably (how?), but if it happens do you just get in there with glasspaper, use a Dremel, or what?  I'd be interested to know what techniques people have developed.

[JimErn]

A sanding mop works, a couple of folks use a propane torch for the fuzzes (carefully!)

in terms of cutting, change to a blade with reverse teeth at the bottom or flying Dutchman ultimate reverse

try a number 3

blades from big box stores are, well not the highest quality.  Pegas Modified geometry or flying dutchman ultimate reverse are the go to blades for just about everyone.  I use pegas MD blades exclusively now.

[Foxfold]

I use these, they are nylon I think,  I have a drill clamped upside down on my table with this fixed in. It works wonders for me and cheap as chips.  

Edited June 27, 2019 by Foxfold

[dgman]

As Jim mentioned above, use a reverse tooth blade or Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse tooth blade. But even using these blade will not totally eliminate the problem. Using soft pine is the problem. I use mostly hard woods. The harder woods don’t fuzz up like soft woods do. I rarely have that problem with woods like Cherry, Walnut, Maple or Mahogany. Plus using hard woods, you don’t need to stain them as most hard woods  look great after finishing with an oil based finish.

 

Edited July 13, 2019 by dgman

[John B]

Harry, I address that problem a number of ways like Jim has stated.
I will sand the back with a random orbital or 1/4 sheet sander, this is generally all that is required on thicker timber. When I cut portraits from ply I do the same thing but then hit it with a small butane torch. Place the face of the cutting up hard against another piece of timber so the flame can not get to the face and keep the torch moving. I will then give it another quick sand and 99% of the time all the fuzzies are gone. I also use a sanding mop on the back of puzzle pieces etc.

Edited June 28, 2019 by John B

[Harry Barton]

Thanks! The butane torch idea seems completely obvious, but I'd never have thought of it.  Also, working in hardwoods and using reverse-tooth blades.  I have a Dremel-type tool and I think that has a nylon mop attachment.

[JimErn]

one other tip is to use a sacrifice board on the bottom, tape or hot glue top the two layers, like stack cutting. the presence of the bottom piece almost complete stops the fuzzies

[MTCowpoke22]

I agree with all the suggestions above, but also have a small set of rifler files that I use to get most of the "fuzzies" off of the finer fretwork I've done.

[Harry Barton]

1 hour ago, MTCowpoke22 said:

I agree with all the suggestions above, but also have a small set of rifler files that I use to get most of the "fuzzies" off of the finer fretwork I've done.

I have some small files and my first thought was to use them, but as we see, there are more ways than one to skin a cat!  anyway, I'll see how I get on with my next efforts.

[crupiea]

I use just old school sand paper on the backs and elbow grease.  That and for the tinier holes some jewelers files.  

You can avoid alot of these frays with different blades.  

[Roberta Moreton]

Don't forget about Emery boards.  You can also cut them to fit.

[Harry Barton]

1 hour ago, Roberta Moreton said:

Don't forget about Emery boards.  You can also cut them to fit.

I already use clothes peg halves as wedges when gluing jobs up, which makes my other half cross when she can't hang the washing.  What do you think she'll say when she can't file her nails!!??

[dgman]

15 minutes ago, Harry Barton said:

I already use clothes peg halves as wedges when gluing jobs up, which makes my other half cross when she can't hang the washing.  What do you think she'll say when she can't file her nails!!??

You go out and buy some yourself!

[Harry Barton]

2 hours ago, dgman said:

You go out and buy some yourself!

Where from?  I wouldn't know where to look!

[dgman]

19 minutes ago, Harry Barton said:

Where from?  I wouldn't know where to look!

Amazon,  Walmart, Target, Walgreens, CVS, The Dollar Store........

[Rolf]

Reverse tooth blade,  if need be MAC Mop 220 grit.  I also run it across my Sand Flee that removes most of it.  and the small Creme Brulee torch for the stubborn little fuzzies.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Trigger-Start-3-in-1-Micro-Torch-Handheld-Head/50126413

I do not like to fiddle with hand sanding, so it is a last resort.

Edited July 13, 2019 by Rolf

[John B]

1 hour ago, Rolf said:

Reverse tooth blade,  if need be MAC Mop 220 grit.  I also run it across my Sand Flee that removes most of it.  and the small Creme Brulee torch for the stubborn little fuzzies.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BernzOmatic-Trigger-Start-3-in-1-Micro-Torch-Handheld-Head/50126413

I do not like to fiddle with hand sanding, so it is a last resort.

I'm with you on the hand sanding Rolf. I have broken more pieces, by a long shot, hand sanding then I have using the mop and sanders.

[John B]

I purchased 1 of these complete, to see how they were made, one refill and now I make up my own

I also purchased 2 Mac Mops, a 120 and a 240.
I think the both types are pretty much of a muchness Perhaps the Mac Mops last a little longer

[Wilson142]

I use the same mop as John B.  I believe I bought it from Klingspor. I would like to make my own refills but it does look like a pain! I guess I do have the time though. I need to look into some aluminum oxide emery cloth.

[Rolf]

I gave up on the make your own, after the first one i did. That style of sander does not work for me or last very long. 

I have been using the spindle mounted MAC mop, the lower picture posted by John B. They last a very long time and I feel I have more control. 

All a matter of preference.