Another New Toy

[Hawk]

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a Craftsman table saw, model 152.221040, a 10 inch with cast iron tops. the amazing pat it was still in the crate, a metal one. Thing weighted about 300 pounds. A guy I work with was clearing out his Dad's garage and found this tucked in a corner of the garage. Took some doing to get it down in my basement in pieces. now comes the fun part, assembly and set up!!! Sure glad winter is setting in...

Chris 

[JimErn]

Finds like that are rare, congrats

[amazingkevin]

It's amazing what you buy and forget about. Good find!!!!

[meflick]

Congratulations on your great deal.  Should be well worth the effort once you find the time to get it back together and setup.  Look forward to hearing what you do with it.

[Hawk]

I was quite amazed, Near as I can figure this saw is from about 2003, and the fact that it was new, unused still bolted in the create covered with the packing grease on the exposed metal parts and only $200 !!!

[Rockytime]

No pictures, it did not happen! :>) You know the rules.

[Hawk]

Rockytime;

LOL, as soon as I get time to get in the shop to assemble it I will post pics. My wife has me converting one of the spare bedrooms to a dog room, she's a show dog person. I'm in the middle of plumbing the tub now, hope to be done by the middle of next month.

[Hawk]

I finally got some time to start putting the saw together. I have it on it's feet. I removed the plastic on the top, now there's a thick layer of something resembling package grease. My question is how do I remove it and safely clean the top. I want to do that before I attach the extensions.

Chris

[dgman]

It is called Cosmoline. It is applied to the cast iron to prevent rust. Cosmoline is easily removed with mineral spirits. I would spray it on with a spray bottle, then wipe it off with a clean shop towel.

[Hawk]

13 minutes ago, dgman said:

It is called Cosmoline. It is applied to the cast iron to prevent rust. Cosmoline is easily removed with mineral spirits. I would spray it on with a spray bottle, then wipe it off with a clean shop towel.

Thanks, I'll get to it in the morning.

Chris

[Sycamore67]

On flat surfaces, I scrape with a razor scrapper and then mineral spirits.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I think that was a hell of a deal. That is actually a good saw. The fence is a little skeptical but it will be just fine. It is a hybrid saw and I believe that has the steel wings as opposed to the cast iron of the earlier saws. Maybe this was one of the first in that series and it did have the cast iron wings. That was made by Steel City Orion . They are referred to as "zip code saws"  Used ones go for about $300 and believe back then a new one was about $500. 2003 or 2004. I clean that stuff with acetone. Just keep off painted surfaces. 

Not sure how much you know about tablesaws but if i were you I would tune the saw before you put the extensions on. or the fence rails. It will be much easier because that has the trunnions mounted to the cabinet just like a cabinet saw I believe You move the top to square it to the blade so you will need to loosen the trunnion bolts. Even if it is like a contractors saw where the trunnions are mounted to brackets it still easier to tune without so much in the way. Please tune the saw!!!!!!!!!! Do not want to hear you had kickbacks. 

Edited December 28, 2019 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[munzieb]

Clockman is spot on about tuning the saw. I have a 113. and I have spent a lot of time fine tuning the saw. Besides making sure the blade is parallel to the track, there are "0" and 45 degree stops. It's well worth buying a magnetic digital angle gauge from HF to get it just right. I built a miter sled and it's a God Send for fine cross cuts. Time well spent making it. The right blade for the type of wood and project are crucial. Fine tooth for cross cuts, glue line for mating edge cuts and a stack dado is useful too. A anti-kickback insert is a safety must! Lots of things to learn and lots of fun learning all a table saw can do.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

A tablesaw is my tool most used in my shop and just about every project starts with the tablesaw. Remember every measurement and every angle comes off the blade. I set the stops but do not rely on them. I use a Wixie angle box. Best thing since sliced bread. Also use draftsman squares. They are the most accurate. 

[Rockytime]

Thanks for the photos. Now I can believe you. What a great find! Enjoy, enjoy.

[Hawk]

18 hours ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

I think that was a hell of a deal. That is actually a good saw. The fence is a little skeptical but it will be just fine. It is a hybrid saw and I believe that has the steel wings as opposed to the cast iron of the earlier saws. Maybe this was one of the first in that series and it did have the cast iron wings. That was made by Steel City Orion . They are referred to as "zip code saws"  Used ones go for about $300 and believe back then a new one was about $500. 2003 or 2004. I clean that stuff with acetone. Just keep off painted surfaces. 

Not sure how much you know about tablesaws but if i were you I would tune the saw before you put the extensions on. or the fence rails. It will be much easier because that has the trunnions mounted to the cabinet just like a cabinet saw I believe You move the top to square it to the blade so you will need to loosen the trunnion bolts. Even if it is like a contractors saw where the trunnions are mounted to brackets it still easier to tune without so much in the way. Please tune the saw!!!!!!!!!! Do not want to hear you had kickbacks. 

The wings are steel, and I will follow your advice on tuning the saw before I put the wings/ extensions on. I got a book from the library published by Fine Woodworking on tuning your table saw. I can see it will take some time to get the saw tuned correctly, but I will take the time. I have the top cleaned now, next step for me is to wax it to protect it like I do with my scrollsaw and bandsaw.  I had a bit of an issue after putting the legs on then putting it up on it's "feet" as this saw is not light by any means.....

Chris

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

I use minwax finishing wax for my tops. Avoid waxes with silicone in it. It will have an ill effect on finishes.  Once you tune the blade to the miter slot, the rest is easy. As I said I like to use draftsman angles to get accurate angles. Remember if truing up miter gauge or fence come off the blade plate and not the teeth. When measuring use the teeth. 

[Hawk]

1 coat of wax on. Tuned the miter slot to the blade, this took some time, it was off by 1.5 mm front to back. Now it dead even front to back. This is the first table saw I've taken the time to tune. I really never thought about it not that it could be that far off.

Now,on to attaching the extensions.

Chris

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Yes tablesaws and any other tool can be out of tuning due to shipping and handling. Definitely worth both the time and for safety to tune them. Did you have to just move the table top (trunnions mounted to cabinet) to tune? Or were the trunnions mounted on a bracket. ? 

[Hawk]

I was able to adjust the top. I checked both meiter slots and both are on. When I went to put the rails for the rip fence the rear rail didn't line up. As I was tired I quit until tomorrow. 

I will say I don't care for the steel extensions, I had a Rigid before my divorce that had cast extensions, much much better!!!

So, I figure it'll take me a few more days to get the table saw tuned then I'll be able to actually fire it up and do some test cuts.

Chris

[dgman]

One thing I always liked about Craftsman saws is that yellow insert in front of the blade. It is to draw a pencil line so you have a reference mark of where the blade is going to cut.

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 hours ago, dgman said:

One thing I always liked about Craftsman saws is that yellow insert in front of the blade. It is to draw a pencil line so you have a reference mark of where the blade is going to cut.

I just lay a straight edge against the teeth and pencil line down. When it wear off just do it again. This way I have that line as close to the blde in case I have to trim just a hair. 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

5 hours ago, Hawk said:

I was able to adjust the top. I checked both meiter slots and both are on. When I went to put the rails for the rip fence the rear rail didn't line up. As I was tired I quit until tomorrow. 

I will say I don't care for the steel extensions, I had a Rigid before my divorce that had cast extensions, much much better!!!

So, I figure it'll take me a few more days to get the table saw tuned then I'll be able to actually fire it up and do some test cuts.

Chris

When you put the extensions on lay a straight edge across both to make sure they are at the same height as top. Use lock washers to lock in place. You want those level. May have to ream a hole here or there but no big deal. It is going to be a nice saw for sure. 

[Hawk]

Bit of a snag today. Put the front rail on for the rip fence, that went fine, went to put the rear rail on and none of the holes on the left rail lined up.

Guess I'm drilling new holes. Never thought I'd see something like this from Craftsman....

Chris

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

Maybe a stupid question but the wings maybe a left and right and they should be a flat against the table and rounded corners on the outside. and the rails should be a back and a front. Maybe the wings are interchangable. Not sure. Maybe the rail needs to turn 180 degrees. Try different setups.

https://www.equip-bid.com/auction/672/item/1101

Edited January 1, 2020 by JTTHECLOCKMAN