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Dewalt 788 Scroll Saw


Fedido

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Ladies and Gentlemen,

I have been doing a lot a research concerning a Dewalt 788 Scroll Saw. I have sought and found a type 1. I know that means it was made in Canada, but looking for reassurance that $300 is a fair price for it. Just trying to get a warm fuzzy. They were asking 400 to start and it was only one of two type 1's I located. Going to cost some to ship here, but did I make an investment or get hosed? Please advise. 
 

Hendo

Edited by Fedido
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About 4-5 years ago, I decided to do what you are doing. I really didn't know anything about type 1 or 2 so in that case, ignorance was bliss. Anyway, I found a guy not far from me who had a type one with the old tubular style stand and light. He was asking $300. I offered him $200. We settled on $250. I brought the saw home and really knew nothing about them. After cleaning it all up and adjusting it, I set out to using it. After that, I did a lot of reading here on SSV and learned alot about my saw. I also watched the 4 part video that Bob Brokaw/Gwinnette Woodworkers did on Youtube. I took mine all apart and did the whole clean and grease thing with synthetic grease. I found no bad bearings or sleeves. Something to look out for. Anyway, long story short, that saw ran and worked like a champ. I did finally sell it when I bought my Excalibur but it was a great saw. If you found one for that price, I'd try to get it cheaper but if it's in really nice pristine condition, go for it. If it doesn't have a stand or light, I'd have to step back and really dicker on it. Of course your location will make a huge difference. I live where there are 40 million people so there are a lot of used anything on Craigslist. I never have a problem finding anything if I'm patient. Best of luck. And, by the way, introduce yourself and fill out the profile info so we know where you are located. Welcome to the Village.

 

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Thank you so much for the insight. The saw has a stand, but I intend to mount it to a work bench as space is limited in my garage. I thought the introduction I did in the forum section, but I stand corrected. Thank you. To give you an idea of the city I live in, my local Lowe has a trending scroll saw blades are all the ones I bought. There is a big locally owned store that have amazing lumber stock, but it is an hour away. 
 

thank you again for sharing your story. Given how hard it is to find a type 1 here, I felt like 300 with cosmetic damage is acceptable. I anticipated on overhaul/inspect it when it arrives. I want this to last as long as the 1990 craftsman I have now. I will be changing out those videos. 
 

Hendo 

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One important factor to consider is that saw is at least 20 years old. I would not consider buying  a used saw without trying it out in person. If it has never been serviced, the bearings will be worn and create lots of problems.

Edited by dgman
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I bought a Type 1 7 years ago, I was told it had hardly been used and sat in a barn storage for years, $225 with stand,  the table was rusted but cleaned up real good. I used it lots before I done a regrease . had switch issue so ordered a new switch but in the mean time carefully took the old switch apart cleaned readjusted , the new switch finally came and now sits in my tool box. I did buy a new Seyco last spring it is a good saw as well. So the Dewalt doesn't get as much use now. the arm lifts higher on the Seyco which is a nice feature but I do prefer the blade tensioner system on the Dewalt as it is right up front.  

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This suggestion will probably get me some flack but here goes. When I first got started getting interested in scrolling I read a lot about scrollers having problems with the DeWalt and ex style saws. I also read about the Hegners and Hawks being fairly bullet proof. In my late 70's I had no desire to own something I had to fiddle with. As a result I found and bought three Hawks. The first was an old 14" which worked very nicely. I upgraded then to a 16" vs and finally upgraded to a 220 vs Ultra. Wonderful and trouble free saws. I sold the 220 because I found two really affordable Hegners, 14" and 18". So I can't advise against the DeWalts or ex"s not having owned either. What I can say is I have had no issues with either the Hawks or Hegners. There, I said it! 🙄

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Thanks for all the inputs. The shipping is only 30 dollars, which is not bad, just will take a slow boat to get here. Normally, I wouldn't even consider buying something like this, but really wanted to upgrade. All reviews I have found and all I heard is the type one can take a hand Bernadette and still work. Only reason I went this way. Thank you all though for your comments. 
 

 

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Just so you know there were 2 things with all type #1 Dewalts and it involved the table. Now this saw has been used so maybe the owner addressed them already. But the table was always offcenter and many times had to be moved over or else the blade would cut the side of the hole. The table always rocked because it is tough to tighten the screws that hold the table in place and if you lean on the table one way or other it throws it off 90 degree plane. You will see. And the big one was the table was never level and the blade always cut with an aggresive cut. Many people never noticed and it did not bother them. It did me so I fixed mine and requires a shim in the back of the table as shown here.

Depending on the condition of the saw and the hours on it, it could be a worthwhile investment but they are known to knock and need attention. That is how all those videos of tearing the Dewalt apart started. It was on a Type#1 saw. They are not a production saw but are a good mid range saw. Good luck.  

 

 

Dewaltfix.jpg

Edited by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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TJ,

Thank you very much for this info. I feel you have given me a nickel's worth of free advice. I know it is an older saw, but considering the one I started on is a low level entry saw, this is a huge upgrade for me. I wanted to hold off for a while, but can never have too many scroll saws. I am looking forward to getting it and performing an "acceptance" inspection. I know I will have to lube it and probably change bearings, but the table info is amazing. I have shim ready and waiting for it. I will let you all know how it turns out. As far as requiring attention, I am okay with that. I drive an 04 Dodge Durango and love it. I am also a retired aircraft mechanic. while I cant crawl around an aircraft anymore, a scroll saw is easier. 

 

Hendo

 

Edited by Fedido
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12 minutes ago, Fedido said:

TJ,

Thank you very much for this info. I feel you have given me a nickel's worth of free advice. I know it is an older saw, but considering the one I started on is a low level entry saw, this is a huge upgrade for me. I wanted to hold off for a while, but can never have too many scroll saws. I am looking forward to getting it and performing an "acceptance" inspection. I know I will have to lube it and probably change bearings, but the table info is amazing. I have shim ready and waiting for it. I will let you all know how it turns out. As far as requiring attention, I am okay with that. I drive an 04 Dodge Durango and love it. I am also a retired aircraft mechanic. while I cant crawl around an aircraft anymore, a scroll saw is easier. 

 

Hendo

 

As I said many people did not mind the aggressive cut and some never knew it was there. May still be on the newer ones too. Who knows. How many people check this on any saw. All the new Pegas saws have the same blade action and all the excaliburs too. Very easy to check. Just take a square and place behind a blade just touching it,  and by hand  move arm up and down. If the table is true then the distance between the square on the top stroke should match the distance on the down stroke with the blade touching the square in the middle of the stroke. This was the idea behind that system. The rocking motion is less that a longer parallel arm saw . The old "C" arm saws were even more aggressive.  

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All,

Thank you for all the comments. 

TJ, Your nickels worth is jumping to a dime's worth of free advice. I will be checking that out.

 

OC, I don't know where you can find a brand new dewalt for under 500, but that's the price I have seen and from what I can tell, warped tables and problems all around seem to have been common with type 2's, which is why I decided on a type one. Might need some maintenance, but it is the story of my life. 

Scrappile, If I didnt find this type one dewalt, my next choice would have been a delta. The one problem I have with both Dewalt and Delta saws is that I will have to travel at least an hour just to find one in the store if I am lucky. I live in a small town in the middle of South Carolina. Late at night with no wind, occasionally I hear banjo's picking. I have a story for that, but that is for another time. 

Once again, thank you all for your comments and wisdom.  

 

Hendo

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8 hours ago, Fedido said:

All,

Thank you for all the comments. 

TJ, Your nickels worth is jumping to a dime's worth of free advice. I will be checking that out.

 

OC, I don't know where you can find a brand new dewalt for under 500, but that's the price I have seen and from what I can tell, warped tables and problems all around seem to have been common with type 2's, which is why I decided on a type one. Might need some maintenance, but it is the story of my life. 

Scrappile, If I didnt find this type one dewalt, my next choice would have been a delta. The one problem I have with both Dewalt and Delta saws is that I will have to travel at least an hour just to find one in the store if I am lucky. I live in a small town in the middle of South Carolina. Late at night with no wind, occasionally I hear banjo's picking. I have a story for that, but that is for another time. 

Once again, thank you all for your comments and wisdom.  

 

Hendo

If you keep your eyes open sometimes you can find a deal that includes shipping. The Deltas are the same saw as Dewalt mostly. Check Grizzly, Amazon, and Home Depot. 

 

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All, 

Thank you for everything that has been commented, both good and bad. I value each comment. Truth is by getting an older saw and having to maintain it is fine. Long story short, I need things to keep me busy and a reason to go out in the garage. Could I have found a better deal, probable. The point is upgrading what I have without buying something over 800 dollars. Thanks again for all.

 

hendo

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DeWalts are good saws.. I had a type 2 that I bought new.. Ran it hard production cutting for 10 years.. I never had a problem with it other than the normal bearing replacement every 1 - 1.5 years.. The issue I had with that is cost.. to do a complete rebuild is around $200 for new bearings and sleeves.. I also had the power switch issue.. put in a new switch and then cut up a latex glove and used the glove to cover the switch with some tape to hold it.. at that same time I also added a foot switch.. that never gave another issue in the remaining 9 years.. LOL

I went with a Hawk scroll saw and bought a new Excalibur.. never an issue with the Hawk so far.. but the Excalibur give me the same bearing issue.. I installed hour meters on the saws.. I go around 300 hours run time on the EX before needed bearings.. ( that's an estimated guess because I didn't run a hour meter on it from day one of setting it up.. ) 

 

Good luck with your new saw.. You sound a bit like me.. half the fun is tinkering with them. rebuilding them etc.. I rebuild many very low end saws over the years.. and rescued a few out of the scrap recycler places.. 

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KMM,

Thank you for the heads up on your faults. One of the things that attracted me to the saw is there is a switch that was moved to a post so that I can shut off in an emergency. I am figuring that will take care of the switch problem. I however; love the glove idea. I might do that just for S&G's. I have a 13 inch Craftsman saw that was given to me. I am having trouble finding parts, After I get this Dewalt, I am thinking of rebuilding the Craftsman so it will last another 30 years. Thanks again. 

 

Hendo 

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2 hours ago, kmmcrafts said:

DeWalts are good saws.. I had a type 2 that I bought new.. Ran it hard production cutting for 10 years.. I never had a problem with it other than the normal bearing replacement every 1 - 1.5 years.. The issue I had with that is cost.. to do a complete rebuild is around $200 for new bearings and sleeves.. I also had the power switch issue.. put in a new switch and then cut up a latex glove and used the glove to cover the switch with some tape to hold it.. at that same time I also added a foot switch.. that never gave another issue in the remaining 9 years.. LOL

I went with a Hawk scroll saw and bought a new Excalibur.. never an issue with the Hawk so far.. but the Excalibur give me the same bearing issue.. I installed hour meters on the saws.. I go around 300 hours run time on the EX before needed bearings.. ( that's an estimated guess because I didn't run a hour meter on it from day one of setting it up.. ) 

 

Good luck with your new saw.. You sound a bit like me.. half the fun is tinkering with them. rebuilding them etc.. I rebuild many very low end saws over the years.. and rescued a few out of the scrap recycler places.. 

300 hours on the EX and it needs bushings???????? Wow. Even the Dewalts lasted longer than that or at least the type #1 did. The Dewalt type #1 saws were all the rage back in the day. They were the prize mid range saw because all clubs had them and they were sold at Home Depot and easy to get. There were repair stores around to fix Dewalt equipment of all kind. That switch has been a factor ever since they came out and the fix was always just cover it and use a foot switch. 

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31 minutes ago, JTTHECLOCKMAN said:

300 hours on the EX and it needs bushings???????? Wow. Even the Dewalts lasted longer than that or at least the type #1 did. The Dewalt type #1 saws were all the rage back in the day. They were the prize mid range saw because all clubs had them and they were sold at Home Depot and easy to get. There were repair stores around to fix Dewalt equipment of all kind. That switch has been a factor ever since they came out and the fix was always just cover it and use a foot switch. 

Yeah I guessing I have around 300 hours on the saw when I had bearing trouble.. They was worn quite bad.. but I couldn't find just the sleeves and I don't know where to buy parts for it.. as Ray doesn't support the "New" excaliburs.. ( mine is the China made saw )... I got it off craigslist... BUT.. it was still in the box and the box was still banded and taped.. I'd have never bought it if I'd have known they moved production to China.. But I got it before they was even available at the stores etc. and before it was talked about being made in China etc.. Right about the time the King and other brands hit the market is when I got it.. I likely got one of the first China made saws..  I'm planning to sell it soon and looking into buying a Pegas.. had nothing but issues with this saw from the very day I set it up.. The blade chuck was screwed up first thing.. was nice cutting saw though once I got the Pegas chucks.. then everything else went wrong, LOL

 

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