Dragonkort Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 ok this might be a dumb question but what is the best way to cut slot nd tab patterns? No matter how carful I trace the pattern or how good I stay on the line when im cutting the project the tabs never seem to fit into the slot. usuly the slots seem to be to small for the tab to fit into. do you think glueing the pattern to the wood instead of tracing it on would help this problem? I would like doing these kinds of projects much better if I can figure out how to get the slots and tabs to fit!!! lol right now I have to do a lot of sanding and cutting to get tabs in the slots and they still don't fit quite right so I have to make a wood filler ( sawdust and glue) or use the dap silicone caulk to fill in the gaps befor I paint and finish it. thank you OCtoolguy 1 Quote
JimErn Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 I've never tried tracing so I can't really comment, I spray glue the pattern to the wood I cut the slot just inside the line (on the waste part) , and the tab on the line, then it is just a slight sanding effort on the tab part, I use an emery board for the sanding GrampaJim, OCtoolguy, amazingkevin and 2 others 3 2 Quote
Scrappile Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 What @JimErn said above. It is better to have the slot cut a little too small than too big. amazingkevin and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
Bill WIlson Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 I always apply the pattern to the wood. Eliminates one variable and its risk of error. Cut either the tab or the slot, then measure/mark the other based on the actual dimensions of the first. Or cut the tab slightly larger or the slot slightly smaller. It's easier to remove more material than it is to put it back. amazingkevin and OCtoolguy 1 1 Quote
amazingkevin Posted March 5, 2020 Report Posted March 5, 2020 This problem has puzzled me a long time .Thanks for asking as I never thought too! Great question !!!! OCtoolguy 1 Quote
ike Posted March 5, 2020 Report Posted March 5, 2020 I always cut the slot on the tight side and use a small fine file to inlarge the slot for a good fit. IKE OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Dragonkort Posted March 5, 2020 Author Report Posted March 5, 2020 I don't know if they even had spray adheasie when I first started...my ex always bought my supplys and he got me tracing paper and carbon paper. so that's just the way I have always done it. lol then after he left I was raising my 2 youngest girls alone on min wage jobs and child support so money was a bit tight. that's where I learned to recycle any kind of wood I could find so I could keep scrolling. lol I have written down all the instructions so they'll be handy when I try it again. I don't see any way to print out these messages.....if there is a way could some one please let me know and THANK YOU ALL OF YOU!!! Quote
JimErn Posted March 5, 2020 Report Posted March 5, 2020 (edited) It depends on the browser you are using, right click and see if there is a save as pdf, or a print, try the browser menu for print You can also highlight the text and copy then past to word or the editor of your choice Edited March 5, 2020 by JimErn Quote
teachnlearn Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 This is a general problem in fine woodworking. Unless your machines are very accurate or you have jigs or accessories many have fought with joining for years and articles and videos are out there. A general idea is to cut a bit oversize and fit each tab to slot by taking bits of wood off. I would guess there are discussions out there or one that everyone has for whats on there bench to touch up, or take a little wood off in tight corners, sides. Needle files, emery boards, sand paper/ emery cloth glued to popcicle sticks, detail sanders, micro chisels. By aligning each tab/ slot and dry test fitting you can get the right fit. There is also what is acceptable to you a tight fit, or loose with a little crack filling. This problem has made a lot of money for folks with metal jigs and systems for finger joints, dovetail, and even creative router sets just to make a tight joint fit. Proably a giving, but recognize if you cut right on the pattern line the 'kerf' or thickness of the blade and what ever drift is going to take more wood off. Again, the style of the worker is going to come in, whether you cut outside and stand to the pattern line. One last idea is enlarging/ reducing and printing patterns. The thickness of the line is going to be effected. Printer quality/ distortion. When thee weren't personal computers, it wasn't unheard of to cut cardboard/ artist board and experiment, before creating the actual project. The boards could be cut with razors, scissors, scroll saws to experiment with areas like the joints to refine what would work or find out there is a mistake. The cardboard pattern can help refine the actual cuts. RJF Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.