Looking for information on two different subjects.

[FrankEV]

1. Do you use any kind of special copy paper for printing patterns that doesn't fray when cutting at slow speeds with 2/0 blade?  Or maybe is there a treatment that can be applied to the standard copy paper to help reduce the fraying?  

2. Does anyone know a good source for bulk picture frame molding that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?  I'm looking for unfinished paintable/stainable molding with deep (3/4") rabit for making my own frames. 

Edited August 17, 2020 by FrankEV

[Rockytime]

#1. I use plain copy paper. First I cover wood w/painter's tape or shelf liner then spray pattern with spray adhesive and attach to your blank. I have never had the paper fray. Others may also have useful techniques. 

[spirithorse]

You can also cover the pattern with packaging tape which will help eliminate the fraying and

helps lubricate the blade.

God Bless! Spirithorse

[Jim McDonald]

If you have a router, rabbetting bits are moderately expensive, but would pay for themselves by finding stock at the lumberyard and doing your own rabbets.

[LarryEA]

Everyday plain copy paper "is coated". 

When I did 'Image Transfer', I wanted plain paper 

because I did not want the coating transfering also.

Never could find any plain paper

[FrankEV]

3 hours ago, Jim McDonald said:

If you have a router, rabbetting bits are moderately expensive, but would pay for themselves by finding stock at the lumberyard and doing your own rabbets.

I actualy do have a router table setup and some rabbetting bits already.  Just never gave it a thought.  I even have a few shaper bits as well that may work (1/4 rounds, cove and beading).

It will be easy to make simple "L" shaped moulding to suit the actual thickness of the project.  Just thinking about it,  this type of simple frame can be made on my table saw as well

Poplar mills nicely and also takes paint well and  Lowes has a fair supply. 

I will probably have to stick with buying pre-made frames from Walmart or Hoppby Lobby when the project calls for a more fancy frame.

Thanks for waking my brain up.

 

[Jim McDonald]

Some lumber yards will also have decorative mouldings. You may to dig to find them.

[Denny Knappen]

I have a little different slant.  I print patterns on non perforated label paper.  I cover the wood with blue painters tape and then apply the pattern to the wood.  The reason for the blue painters tape is easy removal of the pattern.  Label paper is very sticky.

[Bill WIlson]

4 hours ago, Jim McDonald said:

Some lumber yards will also have decorative mouldings. You may to dig to find them.

Crown molding can be used to make a very fancy looking frame, with just a little more effort in the construction than a basic flat frame.  

With a modest selection of edging and rabbeting bits for the router, you can get creative and make some nice looking and unique frames.  I tend to make all of mine.  They don't have to be complicated.  Takes a little time, but the end result is much more satisfying.

[Fedido]

I have taken a completely different way for patterns. I acquired my wife's cricut and use 80 pound card stock. It takes a while tyo cut, but then I just lay the pattern down and trace it with a marker. That is how I found the best way to make detailed patterns. 

[Foxfold]

I just use regular office paper for the printer, it's as cheap as chips over here. I just print my pattern, spray glue on the back of it and stick straight to wood. Never had a problem with it fraying whilst cutting and I use  2/0 + 3/0 blades. When finished cutting wipe with mineral spirits and the whole thing comes straight off and then I use the 'cut' paper as a stencil for my wall. 

Can't comment on frames as I've never made one. 

[OCtoolguy]

I was turned on to using full-page shipping labels by Kevin a couple of years ago. I went to Amazon and bought a package of 100 for under $10. They print beautifully and stick like crazy.  I use the adhesive shelf liner from Walmart and wrap the wood with it. Then apply the shipping label that has the pattern printed on it. I take an old credit card and "burnish" the pattern from all angles to make sure it's really stuck on. Some folks will take the extra step of wrapping that configuration with a layer of packing tape but I don't always do it. It is supposed to keep the blade from heating up. Anyway, I have still had a problem from time to time with the pattern lifting but when that happens, I just tape it back down and keep on cutting.

 

[Rockytime]

On 8/17/2020 at 11:41 PM, LarryEA said:

Everyday plain copy paper "is coated". 

When I did 'Image Transfer', I wanted plain paper 

because I did not want the coating transfering also.

Never could find any plain paper

Having owned and operated a commercial printing plant for 30 years and been in the industry for over 50 years I can confidently say that copy paper is not coated. It is usually 20 lb bond or 50 or 60 lb offset. Coated sheets are entirely something else.

[new2woodwrk]

#1. I print my patterns on plain, recycled paper (cheapest kind I can find), then use the sticky shelf paper and 3m 77 on the pattern. Works fine for me

#2 I use pallet wood for some frames. There is so much you can do with the wood and since it's free, easy to experiment. Since it's free wood (just ask before you take) make sure you get from the right source - example non-chemical plant . I have a local paint store that sometimes gets an odd palette they don't recycle. They call me, I pick it up, break it down and prepare the wood for cutting/framing etc.

 

[tomsteve]

ive made many frames from scratch. a set of wanescotting bits has made the profile selection pretty large. many of the frames ive made arent one piece. many have different profiles stacked.

also, i dont have to do rabbits often. ill make a frame for the piece with 3/4 by 3/4 stock then mount the moulding on that. gives the piece a somewhat floating effect

Edited August 24, 2020 by tomsteve

[tomsteve]

heres an example. crappy pics but should show what im talking about. this one the frame is off the work about an inch. other times ill have the work right up afainst the frame

[tomsteve]

found another example. these frames were made with a few different profiles of router bits. i believe theres 3 seperate pieces of wood glued together to make the frame

Edited August 24, 2020 by tomsteve

[amazingkevin]

On 8/17/2020 at 12:13 PM, FrankEV said:

1. Do you use any kind of special copy paper for printing patterns that doesn't fray when cutting at slow speeds with 2/0 blade?  Or maybe is there a treatment that can be applied to the standard copy paper to help reduce the fraying?  

2. Does anyone know a good source for bulk picture frame molding that doesn't cost an arm and a leg?  I'm looking for unfinished paintable/stainable molding with deep (3/4") rabit for making my own frames. 

The only reason I can think of the paper fraying is the blade is in upside down maybe?

[FrankEV]

1 hour ago, amazingkevin said:

The only reason I can think of the paper fraying is the blade is in upside down maybe?

Posssibly.   I did not think so, but it was something definately to do with the blade.  After it broke and had to change it, the fraying stopped happening.  Right now I have a bunch of different brand blades and trying to settle on which brand I prefer.  Kinda like the Pegas blades.  They seem to be the best at cutting straight.