Flipflop Posted October 27, 2020 Report Posted October 27, 2020 Let me start by saying hello! I'm new to this forum and would love some advise and help, I'm a little lost in a project. I'm in the Navy and currently stationed in Norfolk, Va. I acquired a 1950's Craftsman scroll saw (301.20720) from an older friend of mine. He said his dad bought it new but since his passing he has never really used it. To say it was in rough shape is an understatement but i got to work anyways. After breaking it down, it really wasn't as bad as i thought. I repainted the base and arm and cleaned up all the non-painted parts but somewhere in the process and multiple under ways i seem to have lost a part. I downloaded the manual and the part i am missing is part number 9 (rubber bumper ring). This is what i need help on. Can i substitue it with something like an o ring or piece of rubber tubbing? I've looked it up and the part is no longer made. Any help would be appreciated. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
kywoodmaster Posted October 28, 2020 Report Posted October 28, 2020 Can you load a copy of the manual so we can see which part you are talking about? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
JustLarry Posted October 28, 2020 Report Posted October 28, 2020 I found manual for 103.20720 and it shows part 9 rubber bumper ring. If I had this saw, I would try your suggestion of o-ring or tube. That is a neat looking saw. http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/2156.pdf OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Flipflop Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Posted October 28, 2020 One of the other forums I belong to, a guy suggested that I didn't need it but I'm worried about the long-term effects of metal slamming against metal OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Fedido Posted October 28, 2020 Report Posted October 28, 2020 Judging from the parts breakdown, the rubber seal is a cushion. It will have no adverse effect on the operation. nothing else, it might wear out a small area, but that would be with extensive usage. Another option if you like would be trying nylon washers. They will have the same results as the rubber, but might be easier to find. Just my two cents and please leave the change in the tip jar. Be_O_Be and OCtoolguy 2 Quote
Tomanydogs Posted October 28, 2020 Report Posted October 28, 2020 What about those small rubber washers that we put into the end of the garden hose so they don’t leak. Would that work? OCtoolguy 1 Quote
Rockytime Posted October 28, 2020 Report Posted October 28, 2020 Sounds like the answer to your dilemma can be found in the plumbing department of your local ACE hardware store. OCtoolguy 1 Quote
OCtoolguy Posted October 29, 2020 Report Posted October 29, 2020 I would experiment with different rubber 0-rings or hose rings or washers until I found one that fit and seemed to work. Quote
kywoodmaster Posted October 29, 2020 Report Posted October 29, 2020 That looks like one I have in my shed. If I get a chance I will look at it and get a picture this weekend. Quote
TAIrving Posted October 31, 2020 Report Posted October 31, 2020 You can get an O-ring set from Amazon for $9.79, delivered tomorrow. There 225 O-rings in 18 different sizes. One of them should work for you. https://www.amazon.com/OCGIG-Rubber-Sealing-Gasket-Assortment/dp/B071VJCH1B/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2YY1ZDBVHODN3&dchild=1&keywords=o+rings&qid=1604154171&sprefix=o+ring%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-4 You can get this set for less if you don't need it tomorrow. Or you can get different sets, just search for O-rings. I have one of these sets in my tool shed missing one or two O-rings I used. I am happy to share, but might be too far for you to drive (Houston, TX area). Quote
Flipflop Posted October 31, 2020 Author Report Posted October 31, 2020 Thank all of yall for the help! I went with rubber O ring. Putting everything together now and then I'll let you know how it runs John B and amazingkevin 2 Quote
amazingkevin Posted November 2, 2020 Report Posted November 2, 2020 If man made it man can fix it!!! Fedido 1 Quote
Fedido Posted November 2, 2020 Report Posted November 2, 2020 18 hours ago, amazingkevin said: If man made it man can fix it!!! And if nothing else, beat to fit, paint to match. Roberta Moreton and amazingkevin 2 Quote
amazingkevin Posted November 2, 2020 Report Posted November 2, 2020 4 hours ago, Fedido said: And if nothing else, beat to fit, paint to match. Lol!!! Been there done that and made a bigger mess!!! Fedido 1 Quote
Fedido Posted November 3, 2020 Report Posted November 3, 2020 1 hour ago, amazingkevin said: Lol!!! Been there done that and made a bigger mess!!! That was my thoughts while working on aircraft. I was told I would have been perfect working the F-4 Phantom. Then again, that aircraft is proof that if someone straps a big enough engine on a brick, it would fly. munzieb 1 Quote
munzieb Posted December 7, 2020 Report Posted December 7, 2020 On 11/2/2020 at 7:51 PM, Fedido said: That was my thoughts while working on aircraft. I was told I would have been perfect working the F-4 Phantom. Then again, that aircraft is proof that if someone straps a big enough engine on a brick, it would fly. Just remember that helicopters don't fly either, they beat the air into submission! Quote
malar Posted February 9, 2021 Report Posted February 9, 2021 (edited) I have the same saw. I think the rubber is a cushion if the upper blade is released to quick. Or if the tension is set wrong and the blade clamp is slamming into the arm. Mine doesn't have one either. I have a manual that says to pull the upper clamp down a quarter of and inch when the bottom clamp is at the very top. Leaving a quarter of an inch from hitting the arm. This is how the tension is set. I got the following from Vintage Machinery dot org It tell's us our machines were made some time around 1940. "Central Specialty Co. of Ypsilanti Michigan started to produce machinery and accessories for Sears in the 1932/1933 time-frame. King-Seeley acquired Central Specialty in 1944. Machinery and accessories with Sears source code "103" were from Central Specialty. These items carried the Craftsman, Companion, Dunlap, and Fulton labels. Central Specialty was located on Norris St, near Forrest Ave. It had its own casting and machining facilities, with a separate engineering and administration building located across the street (720 Norris St). Today, some of the manufacturing plant still exists. The casting facility was torn down after Motor Wheel took over in the mid-1960s. The engineering and administration building is currently the home of the Corner Brewery bar and grill along with the Arbor Brewing Company micro-brewery. Central Specialty also made automotive components. These included an intake manifold for the Hudson Motor Car Co. and a power steering pump body for the Chrysler Corp." Edited February 11, 2021 by malar spelling Quote
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