Blade difference ?

[Foxfold]

After hearing  so many people extol the virtue of  Pegas MG blades I went and bought myself some.  Can someone tell me what the difference is between these and my normal Reverse blades ?

I use Niqua #3 ultra reverse as my blade of choice, I find it cuts pretty much anything I do from 1/8th inch through to 1/4 inch ( I very rarely cut anything thicker.)  
However, I tried them today and can honestly say I find not a lot of difference between the two. I'm stack cutting two pieces of 1/8th BB ply and I'm still getting enough 'fuzzies' to warrant sanding. It cuts no cleaner than my Niqua blades.  Am I doing something different to everyone else ? as at this moment I don't think I could justify the price difference but I'm open to other peoples views.

 

[Scrappile]

I use both Pegas and Flying Dutchman (I read the Flying Dutchman and Niqua are the same, I don't know for sure).  I find as a general rule (and the is only my personal experience) a Pegas blade of the same size as a FD blade is just a little thinner and more flexible than the FD blade...  I don't really think one is better than the other, I often switch back an forth...I just seems to me the Pegas has a little more flex to it... Both cut well..  Sometimes, depending on what, how I am cutting, I like the more flex, sometimes Don't.  I think even my mood fits into the picture... Some will say the Pegas blades last longer,  I have not paid any attention so I don't know it they do or don't.  I have never worried about what others use for what and I really don't have one favorite blade or brand.. I even switch around blade I using on the same piece..  One thing I have found, that in general the Pegas blades are cleaner than the FD... When I use a new FD blade, I always wipe the ends with Alcohol before using it. 

[dgman]

Brenda, I use mainly Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades. I have tried Pegas MG blades, but didn’t see enough difference to change over. BTW, Niqua and FD are the same. 

[Denny Knappen]

There is a difference between the blades.  FD Ultra Reverse has every other tooth reverse.  Pegas MGT blades have the bottom 3/4" reverse.  The main difference is how the MGT blades are made.  They are not stamped as other blades, so the tracking is more straight on.  Also, I find they last longer.  I just finished "Barney's Bullet" using only one Pegas #1R MGT blade.  Some find the MGT blades are more aggressive because of the teeth per inch.  For example, Pegas #1 Skip blade is 22.7 tpi while the MGT blade is 13.7 tpi.  

[kmmcrafts]

I find that the Pegas cut sharp turns both inside and outside 90 degree turns better than the FD-UR.. But that could be just the way / style I cut.. maybe I'm pushing through to fast or too slow? whatever the case.. the Pegas make turns easier / better for me.. Also might just be the way my saw is set up.. who knows.. but that's my story and I'm sticking to it, LOL 

Oh and I cut a lot of Cherry.. which burns easy.. I've never burned on those corners etc. with the Pegas.. and have to watch it with the FD blade.. again.. my cutting style or saw set up? don't know and don't care.. Pegas seems to do the trick better for me so that's my story. Also.. I mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 inch material.. whether that be stack cutting or one piece.. almost always cutting at least 1/2"  

[nrscroller]

HI

I use the Pegasblades which are 28.5 tpi and I find them much better than the FD puzzle blades because they are skip tooth which allows more opening between teeth to keeep from plugging up. I make a lot of ornaments and use 1/8 in bb plywood for all them. 

Bill

[Denny Knappen]

What Bill is referring to is the Pegas #2/0 Skip blades.  We have lots of stock and our exclusive lasts until the 14th

[FrankEV]

On 1/27/2021 at 10:44 AM, Foxfold said:

... and I'm still getting enough 'fuzzies' ...

 

 

I can't speak to the difference between the brands of blades, but have been using the Pegas blades and am very happy with them.  They are very sharp and quite agressive, which I like allowing me to slow the saw down considerably.  

However, we have discussed about "fuzzies" in the past in other threads.  No matter which blade I have tried, I stll get fuzzies but between the sanding mop you recommended and the use of a butane torch to get rid of them, they realy don't bother me too much any more.  It only takes a few minutes to "MOP" the cut and then clean up with the torch.  

[Rockytime]

I just finished cutting a puzzle from 3/4" pine with a Pegas #5 double skip reverse blade. Hang on to your hat! Those reverse teeth will knock you off your stool if you are not hanging on. They DO CUT!

[Foxfold]

11 hours ago, FrankEV said:

It only takes a few minutes to "MOP" the cut and then clean up with the torch. 

I know Frank, but I was hoping it was a 'magic' blade that would cut perfectly without me having to do anything !! 

[kmmcrafts]

On 1/28/2021 at 6:56 PM, FrankEV said:

 

I can't speak to the difference between the brands of blades, but have been using the Pegas blades and am very happy with them.  They are very sharp and quite agressive, which I like allowing me to slow the saw down considerably.  

However, we have discussed about "fuzzies" in the past in other threads.  No matter which blade I have tried, I stll get fuzzies but between the sanding mop you recommended and the use of a butane torch to get rid of them, they realy don't bother me too much any more.  It only takes a few minutes to "MOP" the cut and then clean up with the torch.  

The fuzzies could be caused buy how the saw is set up and adjusted.. I discovered this by accident since I own and use 5 different saws.. One saw would always leave fuzzies.. no matter what blade / project etc. etc. etc. I could be cutting on one saw and move the entire project cutting to that other saw using the same blade I was in the first saw and that saw would still leave fuzzies. I kept checking and adjusting things on it.. Turns out ( for me ) the issue was a mix of a couple things to be the cause. First thing was setting the blade clamping set screw the same distance for top and bottom blade clamps.. I did this using a feeler gauge.. But one could use a thin piece of stiff paper or cardboard. What I did was back out the thumb screw all the way and then turn in the set screw until it clamped the feeler gauge then loosen just enough to remove it.. doing this makes the position of the blade in the same spot of both upper and lower clamps. That took care of some of my issue.. The other issue on my saw was a worn bushing in one of the arms of the saw.. Just a couple things that you might consider checking. Also some saws the reverse teeth barely make it above the top of the tables surface so they'd never reach the bottom of the project. 

[FrankEV]

1 hour ago, kmmcrafts said:

The fuzzies could be caused buy how the saw is set up and adjusted.. I discovered this by accident since I own and use 5 different saws.. One saw would always leave fuzzies.. no matter what blade / project etc. etc. etc. I could be cutting on one saw and move the entire project cutting to that other saw using the same blade I was in the first saw and that saw would still leave fuzzies. I kept checking and adjusting things on it.. Turns out ( for me ) the issue was a mix of a couple things to be the cause. First thing was setting the blade clamping set screw the same distance for top and bottom blade clamps.. I did this using a feeler gauge.. But one could use a thin piece of stiff paper or cardboard. What I did was back out the thumb screw all the way and then turn in the set screw until it clamped the feeler gauge then loosen just enough to remove it.. doing this makes the position of the blade in the same spot of both upper and lower clamps. That took care of some of my issue.. The other issue on my saw was a worn bushing in one of the arms of the saw.. Just a couple things that you might consider checking. Also some saws the reverse teeth barely make it above the top of the tables surface so they'd never reach the bottom of the project. 

I don't get a lot of fuzzies when using regular Pegas MGT R blades.  However, I do get a lot when I use the Pegas spiral blades.  Of course the spiral blade do not have any reverse cutting ability, and, spiral blades "kinda" grind through wood like a rasp file as opposed the clean sided fret left by a toothed blade, thus much more fuzzies. 

As I mentioned to foxfold,  I find I can knock off most of the fuzzies with the sanding mop, which I will do as I cut areas so the fuzzies don't drag on the table too much.  After a cutting is complete I can clean up any remaining fuzzies (most that get stuck in tight corners or very small cut outs that the sanding mop cant hit) in just a few minutes using the butane torch.

That being said, I am thinking your suggestion to set the blade clamps in a good alignment seems like a good idea that I will do very soon.

Thanks.    

[kmmcrafts]

36 minutes ago, FrankEV said:

I don't get a lot of fuzzies when using regular Pegas MGT R blades.  However, I do get a lot when I use the Pegas spiral blades.  Of course the spiral blade do not have any reverse cutting ability, and, spiral blades "kinda" grind through wood like a rasp file as opposed the clean sided fret left by a toothed blade, thus much more fuzzies. 

As I mentioned to foxfold,  I find I can knock off most of the fuzzies with the sanding mop, which I will do as I cut areas so the fuzzies don't drag on the table too much.  After a cutting is complete I can clean up any remaining fuzzies (most that get stuck in tight corners or very small cut outs that the sanding mop cant hit) in just a few minutes using the butane torch.

That being said, I am thinking your suggestion to set the blade clamps in a good alignment seems like a good idea that I will do very soon.

Thanks.    

I see, yes spiral blades do leave some fuzzies. The cleanest cutting spirals I have used is FD-NS ( Flying Dutchman New Spiral ) ..

[Goat]

On 1/30/2021 at 10:45 AM, FrankEV said:

I don't get a lot of fuzzies when using regular Pegas MGT R blades.  However, I do get a lot when I use the Pegas spiral blades.  Of course the spiral blade do not have any reverse cutting ability, and, spiral blades "kinda" grind through wood like a rasp file as opposed the clean sided fret left by a toothed blade, thus much more fuzzies. 

As I mentioned to foxfold,  I find I can knock off most of the fuzzies with the sanding mop, which I will do as I cut areas so the fuzzies don't drag on the table too much.  After a cutting is complete I can clean up any remaining fuzzies (most that get stuck in tight corners or very small cut outs that the sanding mop cant hit) in just a few minutes using the butane torch.

That being said, I am thinking your suggestion to set the blade clamps in a good alignment seems like a good idea that I will do very soon.

Thanks.    

 

What kind of sanding mop do you use?  I have the one from Rockler and it will literally throw pieces across the room when I'm doing intarsia.  So I can't imagine using that thing on delicate work.

[FrankEV]

41 minutes ago, Goat said:

 

What kind of sanding mop do you use?  I have the one from Rockler and it will literally throw pieces across the room when I'm doing intarsia.  So I can't imagine using that thing on delicate work.

Silverline Dome Sanding Mop 50mm 240 Grit.  Ordered from the UK (Amazon) as reccommended by foxfold.  

 

[Goat]

8 hours ago, FrankEV said:

Silverline Dome Sanding Mop 50mm 240 Grit.  Ordered from the UK (Amazon) as reccommended by foxfold.  

 

Thanks.  That is a bit different that I was picturing.  Do you need to be careful that it doesn't catch an edge?

[FrankEV]

4 hours ago, Goat said:

Thanks.  That is a bit different that I was picturing.  Do you need to be careful that it doesn't catch an edge?

I have the mop on the end of a flex shaft operated by a stationary mounted motor.  I will place the cut panel flat face down of the work bench and use the mop quite aggressively to remove a lot of the fuzzies.   Even on a delicate cutting I have not had any problems with catching an edge and causing any damage.  I do this frequently durring a long cutting session so the fuzzies don't inhibit the panel to slide freely on the saw table.

At the end of cutting a panel, I will go over the whole panel with the mop and then use a butane torch to get the remaing fuzzies that remain in the small cut outs, especially at inside points, where the mop can not reach.

 

 

 

[Goat]

On 2/23/2021 at 7:12 PM, FrankEV said:

I have the mop on the end of a flex shaft operated by a stationary mounted motor.  I will place the cut panel flat face down of the work bench and use the mop quite aggressively to remove a lot of the fuzzies.   Even on a delicate cutting I have not had any problems with catching an edge and causing any damage.  I do this frequently durring a long cutting session so the fuzzies don't inhibit the panel to slide freely on the saw table.

At the end of cutting a panel, I will go over the whole panel with the mop and then use a butane torch to get the remaing fuzzies that remain in the small cut outs, especially at inside points, where the mop can not reach.

 

 

 

After seeing what you use I took a look at what might fit a Dremel. 

I tried the 320 Grit Finishing Abrasive Buffs.  They actually work pretty well, but seem to wear down extremely fast. 

I also tried the 220 Grit Detail Abrasive Brush.  I really like this and it works really well.  It seems to be wearing a little better, but need to use it more to determine how long it lasts.  They are kinda expensive if they won't last very long.  The only downside is it's pretty aggressive.  Even at low speed it does sand a little more than the fuzzies.  I don't think its much more than what I was doing to the piece trying to hand sand the fuzzies.  I'll finish using it on this piece and report back.  I don't know yet if you will be able to really see the extra wood removed when finished.  I hope it looks OK because I do really like this brush.

[Foxfold]

This is the mop that I use

[Goat]

On 2/26/2021 at 4:02 AM, Goat said:

After seeing what you use I took a look at what might fit a Dremel. 

I tried the 320 Grit Finishing Abrasive Buffs.  They actually work pretty well, but seem to wear down extremely fast. 

I also tried the 220 Grit Detail Abrasive Brush.  I really like this and it works really well.  It seems to be wearing a little better, but need to use it more to determine how long it lasts.  They are kinda expensive if they won't last very long.  The only downside is it's pretty aggressive.  Even at low speed it does sand a little more than the fuzzies.  I don't think its much more than what I was doing to the piece trying to hand sand the fuzzies.  I'll finish using it on this piece and report back.  I don't know yet if you will be able to really see the extra wood removed when finished.  I hope it looks OK because I do really like this brush.

Update to the above:

The 320 Grit Finishing Abrasive Buffs worked well and I liked that I could use them (gently) on the face of the finished piece without making marks (Aspen).  However they pretty much disintegrate while touching the wood.  They come 2 in a pack and they were both toast before I could clean up 1 project.  So I couldn't really recommend they be used for this type of work.  I suppose if you had to finish something and they were the only thing you could find they would work.

The 220 Grit Detail Abrasive Brush works well, but you need to be careful as it is a bit aggressive.  After it wore down a little it wasn't as destructive and became easier to use without fear of messing anything up.  I was able to clean up 5 boards and it still has 1/2-3/4 left (hard to say without a new one to compare).  As long as its used with care this is a good little brush.

Now I need to order one of the mops recommended in this thread.  I'm guessing you could clean up the entire boards in a few seconds with those.  The dremel tools I tried you must work each cut 1 at a time.

[Foxfold]

11 hours ago, Goat said:

I was able to clean up 5 boards and it still has 1/2-3/4 left (hard to say without a new one to compare). 

Mine  is a Silverline and I use one a year usually, it seems to last forever. 

[BadBob]

Pegas blades last longer for me.