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Posted

Hi everyone I need to order some Pegus blades and im trying to work out what is the blade numbers everyone seems to use as this part im still a bit confused with. Whats the best TPI to use for pine and I use mostly marine plywood. I seen people say a number 3. I have a Carbatec 18inch saw abd also is the reverse ones the better ones to use. Thank you

Posted

I suggest buying sample packs of blades to see what works best for you.. You did great mentioning what you cut and the saw you use.. however I didn't see how thick of material listed. Even so everyone has their go to blade type and size.. There are charts for recommended blade sizes somewhere.. maybe someone will post that up here. 

My issue with giving blade size advise etc. is that I've seen people say they use a #1 for 3/4" stock even though the chart would recommend a #3 - 7.. Some folks like cutting fast while others like relaxing and going slow, LOL.. I'll say, a #3 Pegas Modified Geometry would probably be my choice.. I almost exclusively use that blade.. Used to use #5's as my go to blade but I find the #3 cuts better and faster for my set up. 

Again, my suggestion is a sample pack or a few packs to find what style blade to use.. I believe the Modified Geometry is probably the most used and talked about blade..  

Posted
14 minutes ago, kmmcrafts said:

I suggest buying sample packs of blades to see what works best for you.. You did great mentioning what you cut and the saw you use.. however I didn't see how thick of material listed. Even so everyone has their go to blade type and size.. There are charts for recommended blade sizes somewhere.. maybe someone will post that up here. 

My issue with giving blade size advise etc. is that I've seen people say they use a #1 for 3/4" stock even though the chart would recommend a #3 - 7.. Some folks like cutting fast while others like relaxing and going slow, LOL.. I'll say, a #3 Pegas Modified Geometry would probably be my choice.. I almost exclusively use that blade.. Used to use #5's as my go to blade but I find the #3 cuts better and faster for my set up. 

Again, my suggestion is a sample pack or a few packs to find what style blade to use.. I believe the Modified Geometry is probably the most used and talked about blade..  

Thank you for the information 🙂 from Western Australia

Posted

I quickly figured out the best blade and size is the one you get used to for the type of work you do.  

The sample pack is a good way to go.  I bought a doz of each of the MGTs.  For compound cuts I have found the #5 to work well.

I tried the all the others and found that I still preferred the blades that I have used for last 10 years.  (FD Ultra Reverse).  

As I said before try a couple of different blades and find the one that you prefer.

 

 

 

Posted

Ah,,, blades.  You know I have tried several and I will think OK, these are great, then I change wood or project and end up using something else.  I had a new set of 2/o that would snap in half just from setting my tension before I ever started cutting!  Bought another dozen, different manufacturer and thought they were great until I changed wood.

I think blades are a great mystery,  and you just have to use what ends up working on your machine, wood or project at the time, good luck!🤪

Posted

I had the thought when I first started in January to chart my work = wood/blade/speed/tension - real detailed to learn what blade works best with what wood, etc. etc.
I bought some sample packs and have now cut out a couple dozen things, never once putting pen to paper.
But I've had a blast in the process.
Starting to get the beginnings of a feel for the dynamics of scroll sawing - when to cut beside the line instead of on it, finger positions, etc. etc, etc. and boy are there a lot of et ceteras  !!!!
So far the PEGAS modified geometry have impressed me the most, but all the sample pack blades (skip tooth, reverse skip tooth, etc.) have worked fine for me.  
Now, as I mentioned earlier, I'm a newbie, so I haven't yet reached the level of sensitivity/appreciation to be able to see/feel a difference.  I think the differences are small, but someone with more experience can see them where I'm just not there  - yet.  If I'm able to stick with this enjoyable hobby/addiction, I should be able to provide a more informed opinion in about 10 years, like some of the other long-timers here at SSV

Posted

Blade questions seem to perplex a lot of people.  Most of it is because there are so many choices.  Scroll saw blades are designed to be very specialized and application specific for optimum performance.  However, keep in mind a few general rules of thumb and it may simplify things a bit.

1.  All scroll blades will cut wood.  Don't be afraid to use the "wrong" one.  If it doesn't cut fast enough, try a bigger one.  If you can't control it, try a smaller one.

2. There really isn't any such thing as "the best blade".  Everyone has their own preferences.  This includes brands, sizes and types of blades.

3. The thinner the material being cut, the smaller the preferred blade size.  And vice versa.

There are plenty more, but let's not try to overcomplicate things too much.

Posted
On 3/30/2021 at 8:23 AM, don in brooklin on said:

I quickly figured out the best blade and size is the one you get used to for the type of work you do.  

The sample pack is a good way to go.  I bought a doz of each of the MGTs.  For compound cuts I have found the #5 to work well.

I tried the all the others and found that I still preferred the blades that I have used for last 10 years.  (FD Ultra Reverse).  

As I said before try a couple of different blades and find the one that you prefer.

 

 

 

Thank you I ordered some pegus #3 and 5 blades will see how I go with those for now

Posted
On 3/30/2021 at 9:55 AM, CSull said:

Ah,,, blades.  You know I have tried several and I will think OK, these are great, then I change wood or project and end up using something else.  I had a new set of 2/o that would snap in half just from setting my tension before I ever started cutting!  Bought another dozen, different manufacturer and thought they were great until I changed wood.

I think blades are a great mystery,  and you just have to use what ends up working on your machine, wood or project at the time, good luck!🤪

Thank you 😉

Posted
On 3/30/2021 at 10:35 AM, Joe W. said:

I had the thought when I first started in January to chart my work = wood/blade/speed/tension - real detailed to learn what blade works best with what wood, etc. etc.
I bought some sample packs and have now cut out a couple dozen things, never once putting pen to paper.
But I've had a blast in the process.
Starting to get the beginnings of a feel for the dynamics of scroll sawing - when to cut beside the line instead of on it, finger positions, etc. etc, etc. and boy are there a lot of et ceteras  !!!!
So far the PEGAS modified geometry have impressed me the most, but all the sample pack blades (skip tooth, reverse skip tooth, etc.) have worked fine for me.  
Now, as I mentioned earlier, I'm a newbie, so I haven't yet reached the level of sensitivity/appreciation to be able to see/feel a difference.  I think the differences are small, but someone with more experience can see them where I'm just not there  - yet.  If I'm able to stick with this enjoyable hobby/addiction, I should be able to provide a more informed opinion in about 10 years, like some of the other long-timers here at SSV

Thank you I just ordered some pegus modified they arrived today #3 and 5

Posted
On 3/30/2021 at 9:00 PM, Bill WIlson said:

Blade questions seem to perplex a lot of people.  Most of it is because there are so many choices.  Scroll saw blades are designed to be very specialized and application specific for optimum performance.  However, keep in mind a few general rules of thumb and it may simplify things a bit.

1.  All scroll blades will cut wood.  Don't be afraid to use the "wrong" one.  If it doesn't cut fast enough, try a bigger one.  If you can't control it, try a smaller one.

2. There really isn't any such thing as "the best blade".  Everyone has their own preferences.  This includes brands, sizes and types of blades.

3. The thinner the material being cut, the smaller the preferred blade size.  And vice versa.

There are plenty more, but let's not try to overcomplicate things too much.

Thank you 🙂

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