WATCO Danish Oil Cure Time

[OCtoolguy]

18 hours ago, dgman said:

I don’t know as I have never used anything else. What you need to do is venture out north to L. A. County and see if you can find some. Here in Ventura Co. it is readily available. Maybe look on Home Depot’s web site of the nearest store in L.A. county. I know you hate the thought of venturing out into traffic to L.A. county, but it might be worth it.

If I venture into L.A. County, I'll have to carry a gun. It's crazy there.

 

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

If I venture into L.A. County, I'll have to carry a gun. It's crazy there.

 

Dan, that was meant tongue in cheek. Only part of L.A. County is that way. We have our areas here too.

 

[Millwab]

On 3/24/2022 at 8:15 PM, OCtoolguy said:

Dan, is there a substitute for the mineral spirits? I was at H/D today and checked again but still no go. They have paint thinner and another product called paint cleaner if I recall. I've never seen it before. 

Ray, I was always under the impression that paint thinner and mineral spirits were the same thing. Is there a difference?

[BadBob]

I tried the soap and water. No joy. It did reduce the odor to near zero, but it came back after 24 hours. The odor was not as strong, but it is still there.

I don't like applying a top coat over any oil finish. So no more Watco Danish Oil for me. I tried it because many had posted here that they use it, and I wanted to give it a try.

I tried boiled linseed oil a few years ago with much the same result. It took weeks for the odor to dissipate.

[dgman]

12 hours ago, Millwab said:

Ray, I was always under the impression that paint thinner and mineral spirits were the same thing. Is there a difference?

Mineral Spirits is much more refined than paint thinner. It is clear with little smell. Paint thinner is very milky and has a strong odor. For mixing a clear finish like my 50/50 mix, paint thinner would make it milky. I’ve never tried it because I’ve always had mineral spirits available.

[OCtoolguy]

15 hours ago, Millwab said:

Ray, I was always under the impression that paint thinner and mineral spirits were the same thing. Is there a difference?

There must be as we can't buy ms in the county where I live. I know paint thinner has more odor to it. Not sure what the reasoning is in their thinking.

[OCtoolguy]

3 hours ago, dgman said:

Mineral Spirits is much more refined than paint thinner. It is clear with little smell. Paint thinner is very milky and has a strong odor. For mixing a clear finish like my 50/50 mix, paint thinner would make it milky. I’ve never tried it because I’ve always had mineral spirits available.

Dan, I'm going to take a run up to Long Beach, no that far, and see if I can buy it. That's the closest L.A. County city to me. It's just not convenient so I never think to head that direction. Thanks for the explanation. I've never used the BSO/MS mixture before so maybe it's time.

[BadBob]

20 hours ago, dgman said:

Paint thinner is very milky and has a strong odor.

I use paint thinner. It isn't milky and it is a lot cheaper although it does smell a bit stronger. 

 

[Bill WIlson]

I use this.  Get it at Lowes.  Don't know if it's available in CA or not.

Edited March 27, 2022 by Bill WIlson

[Blaughn]

I have been rethinking Watco brand Danish oil.  Danish oil enhances grain so beautifully but it cures so slowly.   I like to use a lacquer finish and current advice is wait 3-14 (or longer!) days after applying Watco Danish Oil before applying lacquer.    I have a heat gun in my shop that I use to check the cure.  Applying heat to causes the oil to sweat and actually causes beads of liquid oil to form on the surface.  I have observed this for up to 7 days.  Using heat and wiping off the liquid speeds up drying.

I stumbled across an article that proposed home made Danish oil that achieves the look while drying faster.  https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/  I tried this and it achieved the grain enhancement while drying in 3 days.  After drying, I apply a coat or two of sealcoat shellac (unwaxed shellac).  This seal coat greatly reduces spotty absorption of the lacquer (a real problem with cherry) while providing a solid base for lacquer adherence.  Some cherry has porous spots that will absorb lacquer like a sponge leaving an uneven finish and requiring a ridiculous number of coats of lacquer before you build up the surface.  Then you sand away most of it to get a flat coat.  I have 2 pieces in the basement that have defeated me thus the hunt for a better way.

Woodworkers put in waaaay too much effort to have a piece ruined during finishing. 

[Blaughn]

I am very happy with the "home made" Danish oil I found at https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/.  It pops the grain and drys far more quickly than Watco Danish Oil.  The piece I am currently working on feels dry to the touch overnight and there is only a faint odor.  Having said that, I will allow 3 days to be safe. 

My experiments with Danish oil, Wax-free Shellac followed by clear lacquer is looking promising at this point.  I am preparing multiple experimental pieces before discussing further.

[BadBob]

Update: It has been more than 1 month and I can still smell the danish oil.

[evw]

On 4/20/2022 at 6:07 PM, BadBob said:

Update: It has been more than 1 month and I can still smell the danish oil.

BadBob, how long did your piece still offgas? I used Watco Danish Oil on a piece as the directions stated and three weeks in still offgasing. Found this thread and wondering how your piece turned out? Won't be using this product anymore but I've found myself in the thick of it. Thanks.

[Bill WIlson]

Offgassing of oil based finishes can take a long time.  Much depends on environmental conditions.  A piece finished with an oil based product needs optimum conditions for the fastest cure.  Offgassing will occur until the finish is completely cured.  Curing is different than "dry".  Oil based finishes cure by way of a chemical reaction that requires oxygen.  Make sure the piece is in a well ventilated area.  Add a fan to move air over the piece, if possible.  Temperature and humidity requirements should be noted in the instructions, on the can.

Many years ago, I built a china hutch for my wife.  I finished the entire piece, inside and out, with an oil based varnish.   Because of the lack of air circulation inside the hutch, it took years for the smell to go away completely.  You couldn't smell it on the outside a few weeks after it was finished, but when you opened the doors you could catch a whiff.  Lesson learned.  Never finish the inside of cabinets, drawers, boxes, etc., anywhere there isn't sufficient air circulation, with an oil based product.

[BadBob]

On 7/30/2025 at 8:50 PM, evw said:

BadBob, how long did your piece still offgas?

I took several weeks, as I recall. I make a lot of things that are made to order, and this is completely unacceptable. The piece was fine. 
 

 

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

4 hours ago, BadBob said:

I took several weeks, as I recall. I make a lot of things that are made to order, and this is completely unacceptable. The piece was fine. 
 

 

It is acceptable because that is what oil finishes do. Lesson learned as they say. If you want a product that off gasses quicker or is less odor then use shellac. Even lacquers and Poly will take some time to stop smelling. BLO will smell as much as Danish oil because it does not have the hardeners in it. As mentioned, exposing to air circulating around the project helps. Think when you paint rooms in the house and that is waterbase paint. The smell lingers. Same when buying furniture it too off gasses. Buy a new car and that new car smell is all the plastics off gassing. It is a product of finishing.  Solid finishes that adhere to the top of the wood will off gas faster because it seals the bottom side of the finish. Oils will linger longer because they really do not fill those voids. Nature of the product.

Edited August 1, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[Roberta Moreton]

On 3/23/2022 at 8:44 AM, BadBob said:

Doesn't the shellac change the color?

Dainish oil already contains OIL, this means the color already changed. 

Edited August 1, 2025 by Roberta Moreton

[BadBob]

19 hours ago, Roberta Moreton said:

Dainish oil already contains OIL, this means the color already changed. 

I think you misunderstood the conversation. Danish oil comes in several colors. Even Zinsser Clear Shellac is not really clear. I was wondering if the top coating would change the color of the original Danish oil finish, not the wood. In any case, why not just use shellac? 

[Roberta Moreton]

8 minutes ago, BadBob said:

I think you misunderstood the conversation. Danish oil comes in several colors. Even Zinsser Clear Shellac is not really clear. I was wondering if the top coating would change the color of the original Danish oil finish, not the wood. In any case, why not just use shellac? 

You can definitely just use shellac. 

[Bill WIlson]

Clear shellac will impart an amber tint.  It doesn't necessarily "change" the color, but it will darken slightly & enhance grain contrast, much like an oil does.  I don't think putting shellac over Danish oil would really impact the color all that much.  Shellac is also available in a variety of hues (within the amber/orange color range), if you buy it in flake form, so you can use shellac alone and add color, if desired.. 

[Joe W.]

On 4/20/2022 at 12:51 PM, Blaughn said:

I am very happy with the "home made" Danish oil I found at https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/.  It pops the grain and drys far more quickly than Watco Danish Oil.  The piece I am currently working on feels dry to the touch overnight and there is only a faint odor.  Having said that, I will allow 3 days to be safe. 

I found that website to and have had success with mixing my own. 
After the first coat, additional coats are a 50/50 mix of poly and MS. 
I usually get the sheen I want after wiping on 4-6 coats.