cant seem to get quick blade clamp on hegner to hold blade

[Allen levine]

what am I doing wrong?

as soon as i push down arm tension handle the blade pops out. almost seems as the blades are too short. 

is there something Im missing with this quick blade clamp?

i did some inlay work, very poorly i might add, but i had to change out the quick blade clamp for a regular blade clamp and tighten and that presented zero problems, its just very tedious and slow for my hands and eyes. 

any help would be appreciated, anyone wanna visit me on long island and show me what Im doing wrong, Ill treat to lunch. hehehe, 

[FrankEV]

Not sure what blade clamps you are trying to use.  On my Pegas saw I, since day one, still have problems getting the blade to seat easily/properly in the top clamp.  When installing a new blade I need to put the top in first just snug to hold it with the top of the blade just at the top of the clamp.  Then I fit it into the bottom clamp.  Then returning to the top I reclamp to make sure the blade is fully seated and not bent.  Only then can I flip the tension lever.  If not fully seated in both the top and bottom, it will slip out.  

I bottom feed so I make the bottom clamp very tight and reclamp the top after threading the blade.  It often happens to me that I do not get it fully seated and after a short time into a cut it pops out.  Often the blade will get kinked and soon thereafter it will break.

Not sure if this is your problem, but just my experience.  

 

Edited October 28, 2024 by FrankEV

[Wichman]

1 hour ago, Allen levine said:

what am I doing wrong?

as soon as i push down arm tension handle the blade pops out. almost seems as the blades are too short. 

is there something Im missing with this quick blade clamp?

i did some inlay work, very poorly i might add, but i had to change out the quick blade clamp for a regular blade clamp and tighten and that presented zero problems, its just very tedious and slow for my hands and eyes. 

any help would be appreciated, anyone wanna visit me on long island and show me what Im doing wrong, Ill treat to lunch. hehehe, 

Allen, I use a Hegner 22"vs. the only time I have this happen is when the tension is too high. Before installing the blade in the top clamp try backing the tension knob ( in the back) off a full turn to a turn and a half. Install the blade.  Move the tension lever back, you should not have any tension on the blade. Now adjust the tension; tighten the tension knob until you feel resistance, then tighten another 3 quarters turn. Pluck the blade; you should get a "ping" sound, not a "plunk" not enough tension, or a "pink" too much tension. I usually use 5 quarters turn for my FD Polar blades . Different blades and be different lengths and affect the tensioning.

 

Frank is trying to help but the two saws are completely different on how tension is applied and adjusted.

[Scrappile]

Humm,  Two things to check.  When you push the blade all the way to the back of the upper arm clamp, and you have the arm lowered all the way, the blade should bow so you know it is all the way to the top of the clamp.  When the blade bows, tighten the clamp.  Also, the original clamps were not to be tightened in the upper clamp they "floated" The Quick Clamp is suppose to be held tight in the upper arm.  Well I can not explain it well, so and you may already know this

https://www.advmachinery.com/products/hegner-quickclamp?_pos=3&_sid=21cea74ab&_ss=r

Other than that, Call Advance Machinery,  Maybe something is wrong with your clamp.  That is the only clamp I use on my Hegner, Never had a problem with it.  Oh, and yes what @Wichman entered above.

Edited October 28, 2024 by Scrappile

[Allen levine]

I'm going to lower the tension of the arm down to see if that is the problem

ill post tomorrow how that works 

[Allen levine]

2 hours ago, Wichman said:

Allen, I use a Hegner 22"vs. the only time I have this happen is when the tension is too high. Before installing the blade in the top clamp try backing the tension knob ( in the back) off a full turn to a turn and a half. Install the blade.  Move the tension lever back, you should not have any tension on the blade. Now adjust the tension; tighten the tension knob until you feel resistance, then tighten another 3 quarters turn. Pluck the blade; you should get a "ping" sound, not a "plunk" not enough tension, or a "pink" too much tension. I usually use 5 quarters turn for my FD Polar blades . Different blades and be different lengths and affect the tensioning.

 

Frank is trying to help but the two saws are completely different on how tension is applied and adjusted.

ok, didnt want to wait till morning, I am an idiot and you just proved it. I had turned the tension down but only a quarter turn today, i just went out and turned it down a turn and a half. and bingo, clamp went on in 5 seconds, then I tensioned it up again, worked like a charm. thankyou. next time youre on long island, I buy lunch. but you did make me feel stupid as I should have realized that...but thats why I asked. 

[Allen levine]

On to another attempt and a different piece from kathy wise's book

instructed to blow up pattern 145% so a local printer charged me 25 cents a copy

I can make more copies for the pieces on my copier

again I'm using what I have in the racks not purchasing any wood until I'm sure I want to keep doing intarsia

so here's the picture and 22 parts cut

not sanded yet and the back is glued up in clamps using maple and oak for background

 

im going to cheat a bit on this one but I don't think it will detract from the finished look/project 

Edited November 8, 2024 by Allen levine

[OCtoolguy]

4 hours ago, Allen levine said:
On to another attempt and a different piece from kathy wise's book
instructed to blow up pattern 145% so a local printer charged me 25 cents a copy
I can make more copies for the pieces on my copier
again I'm using what I have in the racks not purchasing any wood until I'm sure I want to keep doing intarsia
so here's the picture and 22 parts cut
not sanded yet and the back is glued up in clamps using maple and oak for background
im going to cheat a bit on this one but I don't think it will detract from the finished look/project 


Nice work. Too much sanding for me though.

[Allen levine]

Alot of sanding to get this project completed but parts are cut

im getting a bit better

all pieces are cut

switched to a Pegas blade today was surprised how easy and aggressive for lack of better word the blade was

still playing with blade speeds but my line cutting is getting a bit better

Poplar oak hard maple walnut sapele cherry and white cedar

Edited November 9, 2024 by Allen levine

[Allen levine]

I changed out the blade finally on my makita miter saw and took the blade guard off by error and now I can't figure out how to get spring and hardware set in right will look for schematic somewhere 

it's tough to be a woodworker and not be mechanically inclined ?

having fun