Marquetry with a scroll saw

[Timbo2]

Hi there,

I would like to learn how to add detailed Marquetry onto furniture pieces much like Silas Koph does.  If you haven't seen his work, check out youtube or his website.  Fantastic.

So I've done a bit of traditional Marquetry on my Chevalet (sometimes known as a Donkey).  The attached picture was one of my first pieces from 15 years ago.  One can attain great detail if accurate.  This tool is designed to cut multiple pieces in a single stacked 'packet' of say 6-10 pieces, with the packet being held vertically (saw blade horizontial).  You wind up with 3-5 examples of the same picture, except that each piece will have different pieces (species of wood) making up the same picture.  Although the blades are very thin, there's  still a kerf between pieces due to vertical cutting, which is dealt with by adding a 'mastic' of sawdust and glue (hide glue in my case) to the back of the piece crammed into the kerfs.  In any event, sawing a highly detailed and accurate piece (say 18"x24") on it would be very difficult especially since you can only use one hand to move the workpiece as the other one is used to move the blade back and forth.  Hope this isn't too boring.

 

Then I tried a 16" or so Craftsman scroll saw.  While OK, it vibrated like a devil for the detailed work I like to do.

 

Then I tried double bevel fret saw hand cutting which was much more satisfying, but might be very difficult in the larger pieces I hope to make.  Which leads me to consider:

 

A high quality deep throat scroll saw, like a Hawk 226VS which I have my eye on, but no practical experience.  So questions:

 

Is a saw such as this smooth enough to accomplish what I wish to do?  I do note that Silas Koph uses an electrical scroll saw.  And what blades should I search for to use?

 

I envision perhaps building an 'outflow/overflow' area around the saw table to support the piece while cutting.  Good idea?

 

I note that the scroll saws use generally 5" blades.  Note the 6 1/2" Chevalet blades in the picture (2 on the right).  Could these be used in this type scroll saw without expecting them to break in a few minutes?

 

 

[rjweb]

I am going to follow along as I have no suggestions on your questions. I think Ray has done some marquetry he may have some help, RJ

[Roberta Moreton]

As long as your scroll saw takes pinless blades the 6” should be fine. MOST blade holders don’t have a positive stop in them. Scroll saws also allow you to tilt the table. 

[Scrappile]

There are many Youtube videos on double bevel marquetry, using a scrollsaw.  Something I have alway wanted to try. To me marquetry is the ultimate fine art using a scroll saw.  I will never get there. I do not think vibration would be a problem because from what I have watched you would be cutting at a very slow speed. I would also think, and I do not know that you would want to use scroll saw blades (5 inch) simply because I assume they are much cheaper than the 6" chevalet blades.  Again, I do not know.  I certainly hope you will keep us in the loop on how you progress.

Edited November 15, 2025 by Scrappile

[JTTHECLOCKMAN]

If you look at most marquetry clubs they tend to use Dewalt 788 saws. A couple reasons. The ability to tilt the saw toward them. When doing that type of scrolling you usually are doing very fine and small pieces so constantly changing pieces of veneers. The ability to tilt the table is easy. The ability to insert blades which are very fine. I suggest look up Utube videos.there are many. To me though the Dewalt is the saw for that kind of scrolling over RBI or Hegners I know nothing about excalibers but maybe on the same platform. Just an opinion.

Edited November 15, 2025 by JTTHECLOCKMAN

[kmmcrafts]

Since you mentioned large pieces, I'd recommend a 30" Excalibur or Pegas saw.. they would be much better with any angle cutting too. Very smooth machines and you can easily adjust the how aggressive it cuts by rotating the motor.. That to me seems like it'd be important for this very detailed fine work. 

[Wichman]

I would urge you to at least look at the Hegner scroll saws, available with up to a 22" throat, speed from 400 - 1700 spm and the ability to change between a short stroke (.47") for more control to a longer stroke (.75") for faster cutting/cutting in thicker materials.

As for blades, blades are a very personal choice, you will need to try a variety of blades to see what style and manufacturer fit you and your style of cutting.

Here are some numbers to consider #2/0 blades fall in the following range, about: Width 0.023" thickness 0.010" with 30.5 TPI. Jewelers blades are available in much smaller sizes #8/0 Width0.013 thickness 0.006 ( I'm not sure if I could see those blades let alone mount one in the saw ).

And finally here is an example of what a #2/0 blade can do, 1/2" pine blank, the Native American design was cut out and removed from the blank, the blank was stained for contrast and the figure glued back in, quarter for scale. Cut with a Hegner @ 800 SPM, long stroke:

[Roberta Moreton]

On 11/14/2025 at 7:48 PM, Roberta Moreton said:

As long as your scroll saw takes pinless blades the 6” should be fine. MOST blade holders don’t have a positive stop in them. Scroll saws also allow you to tilt the table. 

I believe The Hawk does,  however have closed end blade clamps.

[kmmcrafts]

Hawk and Hegner have closed end clamps.. That's why I suggested the big 30" Pegas / Excalibur.. Normally I'm all over the Hawk / Hegner saws for their quality.. Pegas/Excalibur are decent machines too though.. just not at the highest level. The design of the Pegas will also be a smoother running machine throughout the speed range, where as the Hawk / Hegner will have some harmonic balance vibration at certain speeds.

Edit to add: 

I should also note that I'm talking about the older Excaliburs.. back before China took over the name and started making them cheap, LOL

Edited November 16, 2025 by kmmcrafts

[Gonzo]

13 hours ago, Wichman said:

I would urge you to at least look at the Hegner scroll saws, available with up to a 22" throat, speed from 400 - 1700 spm and the ability to change between a short stroke (.47") for more control to a longer stroke (.75") for faster cutting/cutting in thicker materials.

As for blades, blades are a very personal choice, you will need to try a variety of blades to see what style and manufacturer fit you and your style of cutting.

Here are some numbers to consider #2/0 blades fall in the following range, about: Width 0.023" thickness 0.010" with 30.5 TPI. Jewelers blades are available in much smaller sizes #8/0 Width0.013 thickness 0.006 ( I'm not sure if I could see those blades let alone mount one in the saw ).

And finally here is an example of what a #2/0 blade can do, 1/2" pine blank, the Native American design was cut out and removed from the blank, the blank was stained for contrast and the figure glued back in, quarter for scale. Cut with a Hegner @ 800 SPM, long stroke:

Wow, very impressive Wichman!

[rustynail]

I would get these videos from Paul Schurch they will teach you everything you need to know about scroll sawing  Marquetry on a power saw. ( go to down loads/video booklets)

 

https://schurchwoodwork.com/

Edited November 16, 2025 by rustynail

[OCtoolguy]

Marquetry is what led me to scrollsawing. It's not difficult one you understand the concept. And using hot sand for accent shading works great. I took a class near where I live. Well worth the $50. Best of luck. But get a good saw. 

[Timbo2]

Thanks for all the replys guys.  There is a used Hawk 226VS with stand, caster wheels and foot switch available near me that I'm going to look at this weekend.  Looks real clean and might be a bargain at $400.

 

Thanks for the link about Paul Schurch, Rustynail.  I might just take one of his 5 day classes next year.  I get tired of floundering around for years at a time when I could take an intense class and learn from a master!

[Wichman]

Just a couple of points that haven't been addressed.

1. Make sure there is enough weight with the Saw to help with vibration. Adding weight to the stand is the easiest way to see if it will help.

2. Check the floor and subfloor that the saw is sitting on. I've have to move my saw around my workspace to find the best spot ( wooden floor on joists in a house built in the 1930's )

[OCtoolguy]

The Hawk 226 VS Ultra is a great saw but there are some things to look at. The main thing is that the adjusting wedge and the V notch that it sits in are not worn out. Try to get everything that came with the saw. I think there should be at least 4 blade clamps. Check the tension lever mechanism for wear. I bought one of those saws in almost new condition for $250 so $400 is a bit high. I'd offer less and see what happens. That saw will take up a lot of floor space. Be sure you have the space. Good luck.

 

[rustynail]

On 11/18/2025 at 11:35 AM, Timbo2 said:

Thanks for the link about Paul Schurch, Rustynail.  I might just take one of his 5 day classes next year.  I get tired of floundering around for years at a time when I could take an intense class and learn from a master!

I have done the class with Paul (Mark Adams School) and it is a great learning experience and you get the videos with the class I took. but you can save a lot if you just get the videos. Either way you can't loose.

Good luck Rusty