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New Scroll saw


GBrewer

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Hello Scrollers!

 

I was visiting with a new/old friend today. I was working on her computer because I'm a computer repair tech. I mentioned to her that I had some scroll saw items for sale and she suddenly said that her late husband was an artisan. Well, not in those words. But she said that he was a wood "carver". I took her words lightly since I haven't yet seen his work. We all get jealous of someone else's braggs, right? She excitedly mentioned that she had a scroll saw in the work shed that was worth over a thousand dollars and would take $50.00 to get it out of the way. Naturally, I was excited to see what she was talking about. Her, being a widow of a fantastic artisan, was slow to show me the way to the saw. First, she showed me the most wonderful chess sets and pieces you could ever imagine...hand carved. She has them showcased in her home in a beautiful showcase cabinet. I couldn't believe what I've seen.

 

I finally got the chance to see the saw and it's now in my small workshop. It's a Hawk RBI 220. If you ever have the chance to get one, get it!

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Thanks scroll sawers,

 

The saw works great, but I'm having a problem getting the blade to line up vertically. For those not familiar with this saw the bottom blade holder is cylindrical. The top holder provides to much slack positioning. I'm not very fond of this. Either way, I can't seem to get the blade to work smoothly for me. Any ideas guys/gals?

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If it is anything like my G-4 26" model, maybe this will help. When you load the blade mine has a lever on the top are just rear of the blade which has to be rotated to the rear. This will provide the set tension to the blade. If the blade is not tensioned enough you can go to the rear of the unit and mine has a blue lever which when in the forward positon applies the tension to the blade. You can pull the lever to the rear and you will find a long treaded bolt which can be turned to adjust the tension. The instructions say that when you move the blue lever up you should start to notice when the tension should start. Depending on the blade, the tension should start at about the 10:00 position. There are different settings for different blades. If your machine is like this, let me know and I can advise on setting levels for other blades as well.

 

Hope this works,

Ron

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Thanks for the feedback gang! Actually, I've been out and about for the past few days and that's why I haven't been replying.

 

I'll try to catch up. Yes, the Hawk 220-3 has the cylinder-style blade holder on the bottom and doesn't let you simply "fix" or "stick" the blade in its position and roll with the show. You actually have to attach the blade to the cylinder and then put it back under the machine. Then, you have to try to line the blade up vertically with the top blade holder which is very awkward itself. The tension bar is at the back of the machine. Here's the same saw http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread. ... 60&t=84469. I have to get off my stool to change the blade.

 

Meanwhile, I'll be going back to my Hitachi CW40 which is a terrific scroll saw. I can stay on my stool the whole time!

 

Thanks everyone!

Gregg :razz:

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Your 20" is a bit different than my 26" G4 model Hawk. If I am not mistaken however, both models use two blade holders, one for the bottom and the other for the top. You can load the blade either from the top or from the bottom. You can choose the method which works best for you. I removed the arm which is used to hold down the upper rocker assembly and keep the blade down while inserting from the top, so I have gotten into the habit of inserting from the bottom up. Lining up the blade into the top holder is easier for me. This process in most cases required me to get up and be able to look under the work piece to accomplish this task. In the end, I do not mind this extra step because I can move my body around on a regular basis instead of staying in the same position. I just finished a project which had over 400 cuts and it was not that much trouble overall with this method. Some day maybe I will try the top down method to see how I like it.

 

You can also check to find out if the blade holders have been upgraded to newer/easier to use versions. Mine changed I think 3 - 4 times during the past 3 years and the newer versions have worked better the those in the past.

 

The link below is from someone who has their G4 for sale with photos and their is also a link to a write up from another user.

 

http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/tls/1195231002.html

 

Overall you have a great machine which I believe, once you are able to get a handle on its use, will be a great addition to your shop. Wish I could find a deal like the one you got.

 

Ron

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