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Just finished this beautiful Russ Beard pattern of the Viking Girl, I double stacked them on 3mm Baltic Birch Plywood, cut entirely with a Niqua#1 Pin Less Blade, now to clean up, oil and frame. My wife Loraine has claimed these two as her own, who am I to argue.

Well, needless to say the saw came home with me. But here's the rest of the story...... When I got there the guy selling it (late 30's I guess) met me at his parents house, where the saw was. They had it out in the driveway. It looked like it was brand new, no marks on the saw top at all The guy selling it told me he bought it to do craft shows, but couldn't get the saw to "cut right" so he put it in the garage and bought a new Dewalt 788. He got the saw from an older lady who told him her husband bought it new, used it for about a month then passed, it had been setting in the shop since then. First thing I checked was the triangle piece (pic) to ensure the corners were still sharp, not rounded, thanks @OCtoolguy for that. As you can see it's looks new to me. All plugged in, took me a bit to get the blade in the lower mount, got it in there, applied the tension lever, turned it on. The thing took off about a gazillion miles an hour, things were slapping and making noise like it was flying apart. I'm glad I spent last night watching videos on this saw as I knew immediately it was way out of adjustment. So I released the front tension, adjusted the rear tension, it was way off!. Speed was full on fast, turned that down to just up from the slowest setting. Rear tension set, front tension set, turned it on.... Like a different saw, turned the speed up to about 1000 ram's and what a real pleasure. Extremely quiet, the "mom" commented it was quiter than her sewing machine. The guy selling it said "wow" it never ran like that. So, I turned it off, paid the guy and loaded it up! Smiling all the way home.

This Sandhill Crane pattern is by Steve Good. There are two patterns and I call this one "B". I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all the pieces. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After a light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.

My latest piece. Many hours went into this one. 11 x 14 x 1/8 inches BB. Spiral blades.

They didn't make the front to back blade adjustment in the "Ultra" version other than the two positions for the blade chuck to fit in on the lower arm. The ones with the allen screw in the end of the lower arm for adjusting front to back blade movement is the G4 or newer saws.. My BM26 is that way.. also those have the lower arm protrude through the angle mechanism and the blade sits out in front of the angle mechanism so you get the pleasure of wearing the sawdust you make on your lap instead of on top of the saws stand or in your case in the funnel.. BTW, those two positions for the blade chuck to set in on the lower arm.. one closest to the front of the saw is for less aggressive of a cut typically for cutting thin stock and the next position back is for a more aggressive cut for thicker stock.. I mostly only use the front most position because this is a more straighter up / down blade angle for a more square cut.. For me the slot for the thicker wood or the rearmost position if you're cutting thicker stock sometimes the corners don't cut square.. If you make those 3/4" thick dog puzzles the pieces won't slide together correctly if you use that rearmost position. At least that is what I've experienced

ok other stupid mods I did. Added a small 12v to magnifier arm. Added sandpaper held on with magnets (2) on a stick. I sand the edges of the blades for better clamping. Added accessory box with magnet in the bottom. Spare bottom clamp is in the box. And here is 2 pics of the funnel and container for large dust. Black tube is drip system tubing that extends funnel. last pic is the dust mound in the can.

That is a very nice unit you got there. There are holes in the legs and I put a shelf on using those holes. I had to check that the blade is straight left to right the same as the bottom clamp. There is Alan screws on the opposite side of the thump knobs clamps. You might have a newer version that has Alan screw in the of the top arm to adjust front to back. Looking directly at the end ,inside the clamp arm. Mine only has 2 positions of bottom clamp to adjust agressive (front to back) cutting.

read my last post here. But the full thread gives some good ideas also.

Congrats on the new saw.. Unfortunately and sadly almost every story on these saws getting sold is because the person that bought it new had passed or health issues come up and no longer can use.. That's how I got my 226VS Ultra still in sealed in the box. Old guy that ordered it had a stroke and thankfully was still alive but he couldn't use the new saw he had bought. Best $400 I spent, LOL There is a small hole on top of the upper arm at the front.. right above where the tension lever goes through the arm.. put a drop or two of oil in that hole ( preferably at the end of the day so it has time to run down into the cam and not sling all over when you turn on the saw LOL Don't ask about that one, ) You should oil the wedge and that cam I believe the manual says every 10 hours or so of use. Other than that the rest is all sealed bearings. Also on the bottom side of the upper arm just about directly below where that hole is on the top side there will be a very small allen set screw.. that is to adjust the tension cam to "lock" down. Proper adjustment is it should have some resistance when no blade in in the saw move the lever with light pressure like you're tensioning a blade.. you should feel some resistance when that lever is about 1/8 - 1/4 inch above the top of the arm If not then you need to turn the set screw in until it has a slight resistance. There isn't much info out there on adjusting these Hawks.. even Hawk's manuals don't really go in depth about these adjustments. One of these day I would like to make a video of how to tune these for the best experience.. There is also adjustments at the back of the saw so that the upper arm will bottom out at the correct height to clamp the blade.. I see so many people fiddling with getting that upper arm in the right position to clamp the blade all the time.. though for some reason Pegas blades are not consistent in length so you still have to adjust for a new blade but once it's in right your good until you change to a different blade.

Ribbiting Frogs pattern by Jaeheon Yun and found in his book "20 Minute Scroll Saw Puzzles". I used 3/4" Poplar approximately 5 1/2" x 9". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using a Pegas #5R MGT blade. After lightly sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac, and a second sanding and dipping. Comments welcome.

Holy cow, it's May already!? This month's challenge is celebrating Spring. This is my favorite time of the year. The shop warms up, birds are chirping, and things are turning green. What does spring mean to you? Post your project that sings Springtime: birds, scenery, Mother's Day, flowers...it's up to you! Can't wait to see what you come up with!

Paul Newman as Luke Jackson/Cool Hand Luke. Cut in 1/2” alder. ”I can eat 50 eggs.”

Pattern by toymaking plans.com

I found the Facebook page for this fellow and he offers all of his patterns "free to use". Here is the pattern you are wanting.

This project started in a reverse order to the usual format. This beautiful piece of mahogany was given to me by a friend. It was 13' x 10" x 1 3/8" thick. I was thinking of various subjects when I decided to check out the patterns in the Scrollsaw Village Patterns Section. When I saw the fantastic "Maltese Puppy" by superb pattern designer, Jim Blume, I knew this would work very well for this project. The wood was sanded, the edges were routed, and the pattern was attached with 3M spray adhesive. Pilot holes were drilled and the scroll work was completed with spiral blades. The carving was completed using a Foredom Rotary Power Carver and the fur was produced with multiple passes with the top edges of three different sizes of columnar bits. The puppy was colored with Minwax Polycrylic Finish and artist acrylic paints. The background was finished with multiple coats of polyurethane finish. Thank you Jim, for the beautiful design of this pattern. Dick

Hawk, congrads on the new saw, now Hawk has a hawk, RJ

@ChelCass, @OCtoolguy That's the cross I'm talking about, THANKS for posting it. We did get in touch with Donny, he graciously doesn't ask for a payment for his patterns, I think on his facebook page(???), he tells of a charity that he supports. Ann Marie and I are going to track down the charity and offer a donation in his name. The people we meet in this hobby are the best. So is this site!!! Rick

@preprius I like the dust collection you have there. I'll be adding that to mine! Thanks

I also order another spare bottom clamp.

Thanks all for the info, definitely welcomed. I'm still in the cleaning and adjusting stage. I have done a couple of test runs and the set screw knob on the top blade holder disintegrated in my hand, so I'll be contacting Bushton tomorrow for a replacement. Think I'll replace all the screws with knobs. One question, after 2 good cleanings of the table my rag, and the bottom of the wood is still turning black. I'm guessing it's because it sat so long unused. I've scrubbed it twice and while the amount of black has diminished, it's still there. What can I use to clean the table better?

And was a pretty good tennis player in his day

I’ve been a Waylon fan for almost fifty years. I was at the Opryland Amusement Park in Tennessee around 1975 and heard him play, not really knowing much about him, and have been a fan since.

This Sandhill Crane pattern is by Steve Good. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all the pieces. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After a light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.