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Just finished this beautiful Russ Beard pattern of the Viking Girl, I double stacked them on 3mm Baltic Birch Plywood, cut entirely with a Niqua#1 Pin Less Blade, now to clean up, oil and frame. My wife Loraine has claimed these two as her own, who am I to argue.

My latest piece. Many hours went into this one. 11 x 14 x 1/8 inches BB. Spiral blades.

Ribbiting Frogs pattern by Jaeheon Yun and found in his book "20 Minute Scroll Saw Puzzles". I used 3/4" Poplar approximately 5 1/2" x 9". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using a Pegas #5R MGT blade. After lightly sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac, and a second sanding and dipping. Comments welcome.

This Sandhill Crane pattern is by Steve Good. There are two patterns and I call this one "B". I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all the pieces. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After a light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Paul Newman as Luke Jackson/Cool Hand Luke. Cut in 1/2” alder. ”I can eat 50 eggs.”

Well, needless to say the saw came home with me. But here's the rest of the story...... When I got there the guy selling it (late 30's I guess) met me at his parents house, where the saw was. They had it out in the driveway. It looked like it was brand new, no marks on the saw top at all The guy selling it told me he bought it to do craft shows, but couldn't get the saw to "cut right" so he put it in the garage and bought a new Dewalt 788. He got the saw from an older lady who told him her husband bought it new, used it for about a month then passed, it had been setting in the shop since then. First thing I checked was the triangle piece (pic) to ensure the corners were still sharp, not rounded, thanks @OCtoolguy for that. As you can see it's looks new to me. All plugged in, took me a bit to get the blade in the lower mount, got it in there, applied the tension lever, turned it on. The thing took off about a gazillion miles an hour, things were slapping and making noise like it was flying apart. I'm glad I spent last night watching videos on this saw as I knew immediately it was way out of adjustment. So I released the front tension, adjusted the rear tension, it was way off!. Speed was full on fast, turned that down to just up from the slowest setting. Rear tension set, front tension set, turned it on.... Like a different saw, turned the speed up to about 1000 ram's and what a real pleasure. Extremely quiet, the "mom" commented it was quiter than her sewing machine. The guy selling it said "wow" it never ran like that. So, I turned it off, paid the guy and loaded it up! Smiling all the way home.

Springtime brings lots of birds to our backyard. I made this for my wife who is the bird lady of Moorpark!

I’ve been a Waylon fan for almost fifty years. I was at the Opryland Amusement Park in Tennessee around 1975 and heard him play, not really knowing much about him, and have been a fan since.

I have shown this before but it is sitting close by and I thought it really looked like spring. And I have a real urge to make some birdhouses of I purchased some cedar boards a couple days age. Little late for this years brood of babies but start for next spring.

Pattern by toymaking plans.com

Tension lever is at the front circled in the picture. The part at the back is to adjust how much tension is applied.. The back part of the saw under that tension adjuster back there will be a wedge shape piece..That wedge is supposed to be very pointed and almost sharp.. That would be one of the telltale signs of how much use it's had. The wedge over time will sort of get a more rounded edge on it and be a indication if it's rounded over it may have been used more than you might think. But new wedge is are available for like $15 I think.. and you can even just put it on a flat surface and sand each side until it is pointed again. The front tension lever is another wear point. It has a tension cam underneath the arm or inside the arm that can wear out but again.. those two parts are still used today on the newest saw made and readily available and not too pricey. Anything else that wears on these saws is pretty much available at any hardware store.. That's why I love these saws. I've rebuilt my Excalibur when it had around 250 hours on it.. at just over 500 hours on it now it is getting loose again.. My Hawk has around 500 hours on it and nothing has been done.. even the wedge is still pointed.. this is how well built they are.. LOL Some people have issues with the clamping systems on some of these saws as they are more picky with clamping and tension etc.. so keep that in mind.. Some pick right up on it while others struggle and give up.. If you can get the hang of that without much trouble this saw would out last you and any grandchildren too, LOL They run really quite smooth however you should be aware that they do have a couple harmonic balance spots on the speed dial that they get a little shaky but turn the dial up or down a smig and they're smooth.. You can call Bushton Manufacturing with the serial number and they can give you a lot of info on it such as what year etc.. any records of it being in for a rebuild or service.. From what I can see of the saw it's not been used much I don't think.. I seen the thing pop up on Marketplace.. if it were closer to southern MI I might have checked it out.. I have two 26 inch saws but wouldn't mind selling off one of them and getting the smaller 20" like this one.. They take up a large area as the stand is part of the saw so they're big and heavy.

I planned to make a cactus, but couldn't decide which type to make, so I decided to make a set. I also did it in such a way that it was possible to change their places: any cactus fits any pot. Project consists of 2 parts, you can take out cactus of a pot and change it. Approximate size is 3 x 6 inches each. Cactus consists of 2 layers, pot - 4 layers. Video of making Cactus project Cactus patterns

I've actually been wanting one of these since 2000. I never had the funds to afford a new one so I was always on the lookout for a used one. With cell phones, Facebook and marketplace, the search got easier but never in my area. When this popped up on my feed you could have knocked me over with a feather. Kept checking it thru the day to see if it was a fluke. Finally messaged the guy. When I went to get it he told me I was the first to respond and it had been listed for 7 days. Truly my lucky day!!!

Hawk, congrads on the new saw, now Hawk has a hawk, RJ

They didn't make the front to back blade adjustment in the "Ultra" version other than the two positions for the blade chuck to fit in on the lower arm. The ones with the allen screw in the end of the lower arm for adjusting front to back blade movement is the G4 or newer saws.. My BM26 is that way.. also those have the lower arm protrude through the angle mechanism and the blade sits out in front of the angle mechanism so you get the pleasure of wearing the sawdust you make on your lap instead of on top of the saws stand or in your case in the funnel.. BTW, those two positions for the blade chuck to set in on the lower arm.. one closest to the front of the saw is for less aggressive of a cut typically for cutting thin stock and the next position back is for a more aggressive cut for thicker stock.. I mostly only use the front most position because this is a more straighter up / down blade angle for a more square cut.. For me the slot for the thicker wood or the rearmost position if you're cutting thicker stock sometimes the corners don't cut square.. If you make those 3/4" thick dog puzzles the pieces won't slide together correctly if you use that rearmost position. At least that is what I've experienced

And was a pretty good tennis player in his day

Well, after doing some more research and thanks to @kmmcrafts and @OCtoolguy along with the Bushton web site I've learned quite a bit about the saws. Rather impressive. So I going to go check it out within the next couple of days and if everything looks as good as it does in the pics, and it runs good it will be coming home with me! Chris

Just finished this picture for an engagement present. The pattern was kindly made for me by Grampa (as usual a very nice pattern) It has been cut from 4mm Baltic Birch ply and finished with 2 coats of sanding sealer followed by 2 coats of acrylic lacquer. All comments welcomed. Now its time to start my next project - a PBY Catalina cut from a pattern kindly shared by Munzieb (thank you Munzieb for the pattern).

Check out the WEN scroll saws. They are very similar, maybe the same, there are a couple of people here that started with them and did some nice scrolling. They also had good experience with WEN customer service I think. But keep in mine they are beginner saws and I think those people have moved on since. But maybe one will speak up here. I do not know if Ryobi customer service is the same.

This is a very short youtube video ( 34 seconds ) that may help ( or at least it's something to check ).

I know you are anxious to get back to scrolling, but I wouldn't expect that you will be satisfied with this saw for very long, especially after having a Hegner. I say this, knowing nothing about the saw in the picture, but it looks similar to one I had was given a number of years ago. My primary saw was a Dewalt. I was looking for a 2nd saw that I could take with me for demonstrations. I was given one for free. It was a Performax brand. I had heard of Performax and thought it would be a decent saw. It wasn't. It was just one of those cheap entry level, $100 saws that were available in many different colors, under many different brand names. I ended up giving it back because I just could not use this saw. The reasons are many and I have no idea if your new saw shares any of the same faults, but I wouldn't be surprised. I truly wish you luck with this saw. I'm sorry your Hegner was stolen. That is a real bummer. You may be able to grit your teeth and make this one work for you, at least for a while, but I suspect you will need to start saving for a better one.

Chris, some people have all the luck. Nice find. Jerry

This project started in a reverse order to the usual format. This beautiful piece of mahogany was given to me by a friend. It was 13' x 10" x 1 3/8" thick. I was thinking of various subjects when I decided to check out the patterns in the Scrollsaw Village Patterns Section. When I saw the fantastic "Maltese Puppy" by superb pattern designer, Jim Blume, I knew this would work very well for this project. The wood was sanded, the edges were routed, and the pattern was attached with 3M spray adhesive. Pilot holes were drilled and the scroll work was completed with spiral blades. The carving was completed using a Foredom Rotary Power Carver and the fur was produced with multiple passes with the top edges of three different sizes of columnar bits. The puppy was colored with Minwax Polycrylic Finish and artist acrylic paints. The background was finished with multiple coats of polyurethane finish. Thank you Jim, for the beautiful design of this pattern. Dick

ok other stupid mods I did. Added a small 12v to magnifier arm. Added sandpaper held on with magnets (2) on a stick. I sand the edges of the blades for better clamping. Added accessory box with magnet in the bottom. Spare bottom clamp is in the box. And here is 2 pics of the funnel and container for large dust. Black tube is drip system tubing that extends funnel. last pic is the dust mound in the can.

That is a very nice unit you got there. There are holes in the legs and I put a shelf on using those holes. I had to check that the blade is straight left to right the same as the bottom clamp. There is Alan screws on the opposite side of the thump knobs clamps. You might have a newer version that has Alan screw in the of the top arm to adjust front to back. Looking directly at the end ,inside the clamp arm. Mine only has 2 positions of bottom clamp to adjust agressive (front to back) cutting.

read my last post here. But the full thread gives some good ideas also.

Congrats on the new saw.. Unfortunately and sadly almost every story on these saws getting sold is because the person that bought it new had passed or health issues come up and no longer can use.. That's how I got my 226VS Ultra still in sealed in the box. Old guy that ordered it had a stroke and thankfully was still alive but he couldn't use the new saw he had bought. Best $400 I spent, LOL There is a small hole on top of the upper arm at the front.. right above where the tension lever goes through the arm.. put a drop or two of oil in that hole ( preferably at the end of the day so it has time to run down into the cam and not sling all over when you turn on the saw LOL Don't ask about that one, ) You should oil the wedge and that cam I believe the manual says every 10 hours or so of use. Other than that the rest is all sealed bearings. Also on the bottom side of the upper arm just about directly below where that hole is on the top side there will be a very small allen set screw.. that is to adjust the tension cam to "lock" down. Proper adjustment is it should have some resistance when no blade in in the saw move the lever with light pressure like you're tensioning a blade.. you should feel some resistance when that lever is about 1/8 - 1/4 inch above the top of the arm If not then you need to turn the set screw in until it has a slight resistance. There isn't much info out there on adjusting these Hawks.. even Hawk's manuals don't really go in depth about these adjustments. One of these day I would like to make a video of how to tune these for the best experience.. There is also adjustments at the back of the saw so that the upper arm will bottom out at the correct height to clamp the blade.. I see so many people fiddling with getting that upper arm in the right position to clamp the blade all the time.. though for some reason Pegas blades are not consistent in length so you still have to adjust for a new blade but once it's in right your good until you change to a different blade.

A very smooth running saw. The only wear point to be aware of is the aluminum wedge at the rear of the saw's upper arm. It rides in a vee groove and should be pretty sharp. Not rounded over. See if they will send pics of that area.

Friend sent this to me and I thought it was very interesting so I'm sharing it with you. Talk about handmade.. this is hand and foot made. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1078714080133567

My leg hurts already just watching.

This Sandhill Crane pattern is by Steve Good. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood for all the pieces. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After a light sanding, dipped in diluted Shellac and another light sanding. Comments welcome.

I've seen those on the internet. I think it would be great fun to build.. but take up too much room for my little shop. I would also like to build a chevalet saw for marquetry. Just think it would be fun to build. Seems to me on that first saw after a while one foot would be bigger or smaller than the other from all that exercise.

After finishing my complicated train project, I needed somthing quick to cut. I rambled through some of the clip art I had and found the F-16. I only had to add a few bridges. Pretty easy to cut. Quite a bit of info on the F-16 in wikipedia. It's been in production since 1974 and over 4600 produced. Over 25 countries operate the aircraft. Local interest for me. Locheed Martin moved the production of the aircraft from Texas to Greenville SC at Donaldson Field in 2019, just south of the city. (a few miles from me) Side note of interest: I was sitting on the back deck and this bird landed on the Hummingbird feeder. Its a Rose Breasted Grosbeak. It is rare in our area. He was heading north from South America. Pretty bird.

Buy once, cry once. Sorry, that was the first thing that popped into my head. This is about the bottom end for a cheap new scroll saw. They haven't been around long and there is not much info available about them. It's worth a look. https://www.amazon.com/WEN-LL2156-Variable-Extra-Large-Dual-Bevel/dp/B096G8SFC8/ You can find good saws for sale used. My saws were all bought off the used market.

Beautiful work!!! Amazing patterns by Russ!

Thank you, they are Russ Beard Patterns he did them last year, if you are a member of Scroll Saw Patterns and More you can go to the group and under headings/files you can scroll down until you find them.

I also order another spare bottom clamp.

Thanks all for the info, definitely welcomed. I'm still in the cleaning and adjusting stage. I have done a couple of test runs and the set screw knob on the top blade holder disintegrated in my hand, so I'll be contacting Bushton tomorrow for a replacement. Think I'll replace all the screws with knobs. One question, after 2 good cleanings of the table my rag, and the bottom of the wood is still turning black. I'm guessing it's because it sat so long unused. I've scrubbed it twice and while the amount of black has diminished, it's still there. What can I use to clean the table better?

Congrats, I think you got an awesome saw. The poor guy is probably regretting selling it now.

He's also a member of Scroll Saw Pattern, Projects & More and Scrollriffic Scroll Saw Patterns

@ScrappileThank you, I'll give it a shot.

I would buy it for that price!

Thanks for the advice.

That arm is pretty heavy so it would take a hefty spring. But....worth a try.

Charlie, as always, great work! I think I may have told you that I, too, got to see him sing when I was at the University of Montana. I was in the ROTC program and worked as an usher so I was able to get in for free

Just finished this one

As always you simply amaze me with your work! Also love how you used the wood grain in both of these!

That is a beautiful and tranquil scene. I feel relaxed just looking at it. Great craftsmanship and I like how the grain of the wood plays into the scene.

Welcome to the group and the Hobby! Good start with your saw selection. I also have a digital embroidery machine and other "toys" Not all blades cut to the side, You have a great saw. I suggest getting blade assortments to try. The Olson blades I used for my detailed ornaments Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI (teeth per inch) cut off to my right dramatically, I learned to compensate by sitting off to the side a bit. I now mostly use Pegas blades. With time and experience you will find your 'Comfort blades".