Travis

When making cutting boards, utensils, bowls, or any project that will come into contact with food, choosing the right finish is important. A good, food-safe finish does more than enhance the appearance of the wood, it protects the wood from moisture, stains, and bacteria. Here are a few food-safe finishing options to enhance your next project: 1. Mineral Oil Mineral oil is a popular choice for its price and ease of use. It can be found in most pharmacies. This is non-toxic and odorless and will penetrate deeply into the wood, enhancing its natural grain while providing a protective barrier. Regular reapplication is necessary to maintain the finish, especially for cutting boards and butcher blocks. When it starts looking dull, add another coat or two until it no longer accepts any more mineral oil. 2. Beeswax Beeswax is often used in combination with mineral oil to create a soft, food-safe finish. It provides a natural sheen and a bit more durability than oil alone. You can even make your own blend by carefully melting 1 part beeswax into 4 parts mineral oil. Once it cools for a DIY wood conditioner. 3. Walnut Oil Walnut oil is a natural option known for its ability to harden over time. However, it’s worth noting that some people have nut allergies, so this finish might not be suitable for all applications. So make sure whoever the recipient is, does not have a nut allergy. It probably isn’t suitable for baby or children’s toys, either, for the same reason. 4. Tung Oil Pure tung oil is derived from the seeds of the tung tree and is a durable food-safe finish once it has fully cured. However, it may take several days to fully cure. But it will create a long-lasting natural finish. Apply a thin and even coat, then remove any excess. Let the oil cure for 24-48 hours before adding another coat. Appling 3-4 layers will give your project a nice protection and sheen. 5. Shellac Shellac is a natural resin secreted by the lac bug. It may sound gross, but this traditional finish has been used for over 3,000 years and is often applied in fine woodworking projects because it enhances the wood grain and provides a glossy and durable finish. It is particularly useful for decorative items like bowls and serving trays. Shellac resin is dissolved in alcohol and can either be sprayed or brushed on with several thin coats. 6. Carnauba Wax Carnauba wax is derived from palm leaves and is a hard, durable wax that’s often used in conjunction with other finishes. It creates a high-gloss, water-resistant surface, which is ideal for utensils and other projects that come in contact with food. To apply, warm the carnauba wax before rubbing it into the surface. You can use a double boiler to gently melt the wax. Then apply the melted or softened wax to your project with a paper towel. Once it cools, you can buff the wax with a clean rag to a nice sheen. 7. Butcher Block Conditioner I like using an off-the-shelf solution such as Butcher Block Conditioner. You can find this at most home improvement stores, or here online. This formula is nothing more than a blend of mineral oil, bees wax, and carnauba wax. But, I like the convenience of having it ready to apply to my project. I simply apply a liberal amount to my project and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel and buff it to a nice sheen. When my project starts looking dull or dry, I apply another coat. Tips for Applying Food-Safe Finishes Clean Thoroughly: Ensure the wood is clean and sanded smooth before applying any finish. Apply Thin Coats: Build up the finish gradually to avoid uneven application. Let It Cure: Allow adequate time for curing, especially for finishes like tung oil or shellac, to ensure they are safe for contact with food. Re-apply As Needed: Regularly re-apply finishes like mineral oil and beeswax to maintain protection. By selecting the right food-safe finish, you can protect your scroll-sawn projects while keeping them safe for everyday use. Experiment with these options to find the perfect match for your project! What are your favorite food-safe finishes? Share in the comments below!

If you discovered the wonderful world of scroll sawing and want to try it out for yourself, you may want to dip your toe into the hobby without spending a lot of money. With so many options ranging from entry-level saws around $120, to mid-level saws around $400, to the more expensive models running $1000+. The WEN 3921 saw seems very appealing at only $120. But is it a good starter saw? Let’s take a closer look. Pros Good value - The most appealing part is the affordable price point ($120) Small footprint - It doesn’t take up much space and is easy to store. Easy access to on/off switch - Located up front, it is easy to flip on and off the saw between cuts. Variable speed control - Adjustable knob up front to control the speed of the saw. Tilting bed - This option allows you to cut at compound angles. This is useful if you want to do inlay work or make scroll-sawn bowls. Sideways cutting - You can flip pin-ended blades 90 degrees so the saw cuts from the side. That way the back of the scroll arm doesn’t get in the way of long rip cuts. The only advantage could be if you don’t have any other saws in the workshop that can cut or rip down larger materials. Otherwise, this feature probably wouldn’t add a whole lot of value to hobbyists. Adjustable LED light - The extra light is nice, especially since you can aim it to where you're cutting. However, the saw vibration does cause the light to shake, causing a distracting stropelike effect. Cons Blade changing - This can be frustrating when using pinless blades. Hobbyists typically prefer pinless blades over pinned ones, as pinless blades provide better-quality cuts and greater flexibility. The WEN 3921 includes two options for using pinless blades. The first set are adapters that hang on the existing hooks. The second set will permanently change your saw from a pinned blade setup to a pinless one. Unfortunately, there are little to no instructions on installing the permanent kit and you must rely on YouTube videos. Steve Good has two really good videos demonstrating both kinds of pinless blade adapters: Using the hanging pinless blade adapters (at the 8:01 mark) Permanent pinless adapter (recommended). Vibration - This saw does have a fair amount of vibration, which makes it difficult to get precise cuts. Excessive vibration can make it hard to achieve accurate entry points, especially when working on fine fretwork. Adjusting the saw speed can help reduce vibration, and securing the saw to a sturdy workbench or table should also improve stability. Air blower - The function of an air blower is to blow sawdust away from your cut. This allows you to see your cut better as you follow the line. This air blower is a bit fiddly without a lot of adjustments. It’s simply a hose that you point in the general direction, without the ability to precisely direct the airflow. Conclusion Overall, the WEN 3921 is good for what it is. It is an inexpensive scroll saw that can get you started in the hobby. It lacks many of the niceties that higher-quality scroll saws provide, such as smoother operation, less vibration, and ease of blade changing/threading. The build quality isn't ideal, so it might not be a good choice if you're planning on production cutting. But it should be sufficient to get started making some fun projects for friends and family. With that said, I started off with an inexpensive Craftsman scroll saw and used it for years before upgrading. So you still can do some very nice projects. However, your quality of life and enjoyment of the hobby will be much greater if you can justify spending a little more money for a mid-level saw or higher. Other Options Consider A Better Saw Woodworkers often say “buy the best tool you can afford.” That may be an inexpensive scroll saw from Harbor Freight, or the WEN 3921. The problem with these is that it may cause undue frustration and you have less control, which may turn you off to this wonderful hobby. If you can swing it, think about a mid-level scroll saw such as the DeWalt or the Delta. Many hobbyists really like the DeWalt. These mid-level scroll saws take care of many of the shortcomings of the inexpensive scroll saws, making it a much less frustrating experience. Blade changing will go much smoother (you’ll be changing and threading the blade into interior cuts a lot). And, you’ll get much less vibration, making detailed cuts much easier. You’ll be much happier with your experience and outcomes. There is a good chance that you'll want to want to upgrade your saw pretty quickly. So the $120 you spent on the entry-level saw could instead be invested into a better quality saw that gives you a much better experience and results. Shop For Used Buying new might is not your only option. You can find a lot of used scroll saws on the secondary market, often with very few hours on them. A little patience will pay off if you keep an eye out on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist. You should be able to find a nice scroll saw for a very reasonable price. Sometimes they'll even throw in a few blades and accessories! Additional Resources Steve Good has a very nice overview of the WEN 3921 that is worth watching. Here are the specs, manuals, and member reviews for the WEN3921. Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts has an article about the WEN 3921 in Issue 84 - Fall 2021 Do you own the WEN 3921? Share your experiences in the comments below!

One of the first questions a new scroller often asks is, “Which scroll saw blade should I use?” After all, the sheer number of options can be overwhelming and they don't know where to start. Often the answer they receive is “it depends,” followed by a flood of advice. And while this is true, sometimes someone new to the hobby just wants a simple answer: “Here, buy this.” Hopefully, this article will help. Where to Buy Scroll Saw Blades While hardware stores carry scroll saw blades, these are often designed for construction, not hobbyists. They’re usually too thick, don’t cut as well, and harder to control. For finer, more detailed work, you will want to order specialty blades from an online store that specializes in scroll sawing. But don’t worry, they’re pretty cheap. There are 3 big brands of scroll saw blades for hobbyists: Flying Dutchman, Pegas, and Olson. I only have experience with Flying Dutchman, which I buy from Mike’s Workshop (not sponsored), so I’ll focus on that. However, the blade sizes and tooth configurations are similar across the other brands. So, Which Scroll Saw Blades Should I buy? Let’s keep it simple. If you’re just starting, I recommend buying #3 scroll reverse and #5 scroll reverse scroll saw blades. These two blades are the workhorses in my shop and I rarely need anything else. #3 Scroll Reverse - This is my go-to blade, handling about 75% of my projects. It leaves clean, smooth cuts and offers great control for tight turns, sharp inside corners, and straight lines. The blade pivots and turns easily. It works well on thin materials without getting too squirrelly, and it works well on thick materials without bogging down. #5 Scroll Reverse - I use this blade for thicker materials and hardwoods. This blade is more durable and performs well with anything over ¾”. Since the blade is thicker, it doesn’t wander as much, which makes it ideal for projects that have long straight lines or sweeping curves. The trade-off is that it is harder to turn and pivot. So, fine details are more challenging to achieve. It may also be a bit aggressive for thin materials. FYI: The number is the size (ie, thickness) of the blade. “Scroll reverse” means that the bottom of the blade has teeth facing the opposite way. This reduces tear-out (or fuzzies) on the back of your project and generally produces a smoother finish. How Many Should I Buy? This is rather arbitrary. However, my go-to blade is a #3 scroll reverse about 75% of the time. They are typically sold in bundles of 12. You’ll also go through a lot of them, so make sure you stock up. Remember, blades wear out. As soon as a blade stops cutting smoothly, replace it. You'll get better results and a more enjoyable scrolling experience. Luckily, blades are cheap, usually costing between 25-45 cents each. It's common to replace your blade several times in a project. So if you’re just starting out: #3 Scroll Reverse - 4 dozen #5 Scroll Reverse - 2 dozen Feel free to adjust these numbers to take advantage of bulk discounts or to make shipping more economical. What About Spiral Blades? This is a subject that has been debated…a lot. Personally, I love spiral blades. But, I only use them in certain situations. It is very tempting for beginners to start with spiral blades because they seem (the key word here is “seem”) easier and you have a lot of flexibility. However, I recommend you learn with flat blades. Here’s why: Scroll sawing is about blade control. It’s learning how fast to feed your project into the blade, applying the right pressure, and following the patterns smoothly. Flat blades offer more control and stability because they only cut in one direction, making it easier to follow your lines. If you veer off track, you can easily guide the blade back to the line. Spiral blades, on the other hand, will cut in all directions. This makes it challenging because if your feed rate or pressure is off, or the blade gets caught in the wood grain, the blade will continue to cut. As a result, you’ll get uneven/wiggly lines, and your results will not look very professional. So, to recap: Flat blades provide better control for straight lines, sweeping curves, and sharp corners. I use flat blades for most of my projects. Spiral blades are useful for patterns with irregular or organic shapes with many interior cuts, such as portraits or scenic designs. They can also be useful in situations where it is difficult to spin your workpiece because of the size or other limiting factors. What Next? From here, it’s all about experimenting and trying different things to see what you like. Try a different brand. Try different sizes or tooth configurations. If you tend to cut thick hardwoods, you might want to try a larger blade with a skip tooth configuration. If you like doing jigsaw puzzles, maybe a smaller blade with a thinner kerf and more teeth per inch is what you need. If you’re cutting unusual materials, a different blade may make all the difference. The key is to experiment and ask what others use to see what works for you. Did I miss something? Do you have any recommendations for a new scroller? Leave a comment below.