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Travis

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Everything posted by Travis

  1. Hi Vanessa. Welcome to the Village. We're glad you found us. There are lots of friendly and talented folks here. I think you'll fit right in. We'd love to see some of your work. You can set up a User Gallery (you can find a [tut]tutorial here[/tut]) and show off a little. Its a lot of fun to see other's work. Very inspiring. Be sure to check out the classes in the Village University forum. Right now we have 2 classes. The first one is using the free program GIMP to make scroll saw portraits patterns. The second is our Inkscape (also free) class. We're still working on the GIMP class. We have another 2 weeks of lessons before we wrap that one up. But that should be a fun one. I can't wait to see what people come up with. Anyway, welcome aboard. Jump in and have some fun!
  2. Hi Ron. Welcome to the Village. We're glad you found us. There are lots of friendly and talented folks her. I think you'll fit right in. We'd love to see some of your work. You can set up a User Gallery (you can find a [tut]tutorial here[/tut]) and show off a little. Its a lot of fun to see other's work. Anyway, welcome aboard. Jump in and have some fun. Oh, and enjoy your new tablet. That should be a lot of fun to play with.
  3. Hi Dannie. Welcome to the Village. I'm glad you got yourself a new scroll saw. Its a wonderful hobby. You don't know how deep this rabbit hole goes...LOL. You can do so much with such a simple tool, you'll be amazed. If you have any questions, there are lots of experienced scrollers that are willing to help you out. Jump on in and have some fun! Be sure to post a pic of your first project. We'd love to see it.
  4. Travis

    Building Complex Shapes

    Welcome to Lesson 4 as we learn to use Inkscape to create scroll saw patterns. In this lesson, we're going to learn to create complex shapes by using additive and subtractive tools. With these tools, we can take any number of simple shapes to create unique shapes. These tools are found under Path menu. We'll be discussing Union, Difference, Intersection, Exclusion, Division, and Cut Path. We'll also touch briefly on Combine and Break Apart. These tools will play a vital role in creating our scroll saw patterns, so take some time and play with them. On the plus side, using these tools is very easy to understand and explain, so this lesson should go fairly quickly. Begin by creating two shapes (square and circle) and place them so they're overlapping a bit. Make sure they have a fill and stroke color assigned. We'll use these two shapes to demonstrate how our Path tools work. After testing each of the tools, you may want to undo (Ctrl+Z) the transformation to get back to your original square and circle. Union Union will merge (weld/melt) two objects together to create a single object. Try selecting your square and circle, the choose Path>Union. You'll now notice the two objects merged into one object. The stroke now goes around the perimeter of the new shape. This is the easiest way to make complex shapes and will be your most used tool in the Paths menu. It is worthwhile to learn the shortcut keys Ctrl++ (hold down the control button and press the plus key). Difference Difference is the exact opposite of Union. Instead of merging two objects, one object subtracts from the other. This will use the concept of a cutter. The cutting shape will be the shape on top. Select your square and circle, then choose Path>Difference. You'll notice that the top object cuts into the object below. Hit Ctl+Z to undo the Difference to get back to your original square and circle. Now change the object order and repeat the process. You'll now see that you get a completely different shape, based on what shape is your object, and which shape is your cutter. This will be your second most used tool in the Paths menu. It is worthwhile to learn the shortcut keys Ctrl+- (hold down the control button and press the minus key) Intersection Intersection will take two overlapping objects and leave the overlap area as your new shape. Select your square and circle and choose Path>Intersection. You'll see immediately that the overlapped area is all that remains from your two objects. Exclusion Exclusion is the exact opposite of Intersection. Instead of leaving the overlapped areas, the overlapped areas will be removed, leaving behind a hole. Select your square and circle and choose Path>Exclusion. You'll notice the overlapping areas are now a hole, and the remaining parts of your two objects are now one object. Division Division is similar to Difference in the fact that it requires a cutter. Your cutting object is the object on top. This option will take your top object and cut the bottom object where they intersect. Select your square and circle and choose Path>Division. You'll notice your top (cutter object) disappears. What you're left with is the same shape as your original bottom object, but now its in two pieces. Select the area where they overlapped and move that cut piece away. You'll also notice that the cut edge of the cut piece has the same shape as the cutter. Cut Path Cut Path works much the same way as Division, but instead of a solid object, it cuts the path (outline) instead. This option also requires the cutter to be on top. Select your square and circle and choose Path>Cut Path. Your bottom object will be converted into a path (outline). Where the two objects intersected, the path will be cut into two paths. With your Selector Tool, move the overlapping path away. Now you have two separate pieces of line art. Combine and Break Apart This tool is a little complicated to wrap your head around, but it will play a role when we start editing nodes. We'll also use these options when working with text so we can work with individual letters. Combine will take two objects and make them into one object. Unlike Union, the two shapes still remain. However, the lines of the two shapes now become sub-paths. The advantage of Combine is that you can use your node editor (we'll be discussing the next lesson) and edit the nodes of all the shapes that were combined. When using Combine, your shape-specific transformation tools (like rounding square corners) will be lost. Break Apart is the opposite of Combine. It will take one object, and separate them into separate pieces. This allows easy manipulation of shapes within the original object without relying on node editing. Once your editing is done, you can select all of your pieces and Combine them once again to make a single object. Assignment Try putting together a shape by using each of the Path tools (excluding Combine and Break Apart). Once you have your shape put together, try playing with Combine and Break Apart (Break your shape apart first).
  5. Travis

    New member

    Hi Joseph. Welcome to the Village. We're glad you found us. There are lots of friendly and talented folks here. I think you'll fit right in. We'd love to see some of you work. You can set up a User Gallery (you can find a [tut]tutorial here[/tut]) and show off a little. Its a lot of fun to see other's work. Anyway, welcome aboard. Jump in and have some fun!
  6. Looks like you have a really nice booth. Glad to hear it went well for you. Its such a thrill when someone wants to buy your work. Someday, I'd like to try my hand at a craft show. They look like a lot of fun.
  7. Those turned out great. Are you keeping your puzzles, or do they have a home already? I bet you'd do well on Etsy with them. You did a great job on them.
  8. I've seen that at HD, but never been there. I think my son's too young for that, but maybe I'll take my niece and nephew next time. I bet they'd get a kick out of that. Looks like your boys had a great time!
  9. That turned out great. I really like the textured look too. Really adds to the piece. Nicely done!
  10. Hi Hugh. Welcome to the Village. I'm glad you found us. There is a lot of great information here. Hopefully you'll be able to walk away with a nugget or two of info. Maybe even a pattern or two for your wife! We all have a pretty good time here. I've been wanting a CNC router for awhile now. I'd like to get the Shop Bot, but I think the CarveRight is a little more in my price range. They look like a lot of fun to play with. We'd love to see some of your work and Toodie's. In fact, have her sign up for the forums and jump in too! The more the merrier. It can be a family affair. You can find a tutorial on how to set up a [tut]User Gallery here[/tut]. While we're primarily a scrolling group, most of us dabble in other forms of woodworking too, including furniture, turning, and pyrography. So all forms of woodworking are welcome. Anyway, welcome aboard. Jump on in and have some fun!
  11. Travis

    Aligning Our Objects

    Welcome back to Lesson 3 as we learn to use Inkscape to make scroll saw patterns. In this lesson, we'll be aligning our objects. This will play an important role in designing our patterns as we line elements up for symmetry or distribute them equally across our pattern. Layers Inkscape offers layers much the same way GIMP does. Each layer can hold any number of elements. The visibility can be toggled on and off and you can lock the layers from being edited. This is a very useful tool if you are working with large and complex graphic art illustrations. However, for our needs, we'll only use the default layer (layer 1) to put together our designs. We won't be discussing Layers in this class, but if you wanted to play around with them, you'll find the Layers menu at the top. There you can create new layers, delete them, reorder them, rename them, and more. You can choose which layer you're working on at the bottom of the screen. You can also lock the layer, and toggle visibility in this section as well. Object Order Within a layer, we can have multiple objects. These objects have an order. One object will stack (or cover) another object. By default, the object order depends on the order in which you create them. So your first object will be on the bottom, your second will be on top, and your third object will be on top of all 3. We'll be needing a way to change this order when we create our patterns. Create 3 shapes to experiment with (a square, a circle, and a star). Move each object so that it overlaps the other two. Choose your Selector Tool from the Tool Box and select an object. In the Options Bar, you'll see an object order selection. By clicking one of these buttons, you can raise or lower your selected object's order. The first button will send the selected object all the way to the bottom. The next button will move your selected object down one level. So if you want the top object in the middle, you'd select the top object and push this button once. Now it will be in the middle. The next two buttons work the same way but will raise the selected object instead. I prefer using keyboard shortcuts. Page Up and Page Down will raise the object one level above or one below respectively. Home and End will either raise the object to the top level or the bottom level respectively. Groups Grouping is a way to organize elements and makes manipulation of those elements easy. When several objects are grouped, those objects act as a single object. When you ungroup them, they become separate objects once again. To create a group, select several objects. At the top of your screen in the Tool Bar, you'll find a Group and Ungroup button. I prefer using the keyboard shortcut, Ctrl+G for group and Ctrl+Shift+G for ungrouping. When you have a group, you can manipulate that group as if it was one object. You can change the fill and stroke color of all of the objects within that group. You can resize and rotate the entire group. Their same relative position remains the same within the group without coming out of alignment. Groups also make it easy to organize elements. Perhaps several shapes will make up a more complicated shape. You can group these objects into one object, then duplicate them for use in another part of your design. Moving the objects and manipulating them as a group will make your life so much easier. Guidelines You can use horizontal and vertical guidelines to line up objects and for reference points. You can add guidelines by moving your mouse into the rulers on the top and left side of your work area and dragging them out. To move an existing guideline, hover over the guideline. When it turns red, it means you can click and drag the guideline to where you need it. If you need the guideline at a specific area, double-click the guideline and a pop-up dialog box appears where you can type in the specific location. To remove a guideline, simply drag the guideline back into the ruler. Objects will automatically snap to the guidelines, so you can use them to align objects pretty easily. You can also use a horizontal guideline as a reference for placing objects. If you need to rotate a pattern so that two points meet a horizontal surface for stability (a puzzle, car, or word art), a horizontal guideline is a great reference. Align & Distribute The Align and Distribute tool will take all the guesswork out of lining up your objects. It will place items in a precise area relative to other objects. You'l be using this tool constantly. So take some time and get familiar with it. To use this tool, click the Align & Distribute button on your Tool Bar. This will pop up a docked dialog box with your options. You'll notice the Align & Distribute dialog is broken up into 4 sections. The first two sections are where we'll focus our attention. The Align box starts with a pulldown menu next to Relative To: When aligning objects, you must tell the program what to reference when aligning. You have several options. First Selected and Last Selected refer to an anchor object. This is the object to which the other elements will align themselves to. So if you chose First Selected, the first object you select becomes your anchor object. Likewise, Last Selected, the last object you select becomes your anchor object. We'll discuss how this works in a moment. Biggest and Smallest will choose the object in your selection that is the biggest or smallest (depending on which you chose) as your anchor object. All other items selected will position themselves relative to this anchor object. I've never used these options, but on rare occasions, they could prove useful. Page is nice when you want to center your pattern on your page before printing. Group your pattern and center on the horizontal and vertical axis. Now you're ready to print! Drawing refers to the entire drawing. This includes elements inside and outside your paper. It figures the perimeter based on objects on the outer edges of all of the elements (top, bottom, left, and right), based on that, it will align your object relative to this calculated perimeter. I've never used this option and really don't see the value. But it is available if the time arises. Selection is the option I use most of the time. When you select multiple objects, it will position those objects relative to one another. So if you want to center everything, you select your objects and align them to the center. This works especially well when working with small groups of objects. Below the Relative To pulldown menu, you'll see a row of buttons. These are the horizontal alignment buttons. The first button requires an anchor. This is where the Relative To First Selected (or Last Selected) comes into play. First you select your anchor object, then select any other objects you wish to align. When you click this first button, it will align the right side of your objects to the left side of your anchor. The next three buttons are pretty straightforward and work similarly to word processors. The first button will align all of your selected objects to the left side (left-justified). The next button will center all of your selected objects (center). Then we have aligned all of your selected objects to the right side (right-justified). The next button is the reverse of the first button that requires an anchor object. But this one will align the left side of your selected objects to the right side of your anchor. Finally, the last button is for text only and does not work with objects. This will align all of your selected text objects along the left side. The next row of buttons is the same as the ones above, but instead of horizontal alignment, they modify vertical alignment. The next box is the Distribute section. This will distribute objects evenly within a selection. To calculate how to distribute your selected objects, you must first have the two outside objects (right and left or top and bottom) in the correct place. All other elements will be distributed relative to these two objects. The first row of buttons distributes objects horizontally. The first button takes the left edge of all the objects and evenly spaces them. The next takes the center of each object and evenly spaces them. The third button takes the right edge of the object and evenly spaces them. The fourth button will calculate the gaps between each object and makes them even across your selection. And lastly, the final button is used only for text. This will distribute text objects evenly between two objects, much the same way as objects. The next row of buttons is similar to the first, however, they distribute vertically instead of horizontally. We also have one last row of buttons. The first one will randomize the placement. The second button will distribute the items equally from one another. I don't really use this tool, so I'm not familiar with the application. We won't be using them in this class. Assignment Play with each of these tools until you understand how they work. Try designing an American flag. This is a great way to use simple shapes and use what you've learned in this lesson. If you do it right, you'll only have to draw 3 shapes; a square, a rectangle, and a star. You'll have to rely on grouping, duplicating, and distributing objects to make it look correct. Here's a hint: Duplicate the red rectangle, and change the fill color to white to get your white stripe. Give it a try and see how well you do. Solution:
  12. In Steve's defense, he uses a Google service called Feedburner to deliver email updates. Feedburner is notoriously glitchy (mostly when Google bought the company). This was the same service I had so much trouble with over the last 6 months. Unfortunately, there isn't any decent free service out there. Everything else you must pay for, which is obscenely expensive. So its worth your time to check out his catalog or go through his archives on occasion. That way you won't miss any great patterns.
  13. Hi Marshal. Welcome to the Village. We're glad you found us. Sounds like Christmas ornaments keep you plenty busy. This will be my first year sending a bunch of ornaments out. I'm looking forward to getting started. We'd love to see some of your work. You can set up a User Gallery (you can find a [tut]tutorial here[/tut]) and show off a little. We find it very inspiring to see others work. Anyway, welcome aboard. We're glad to have ya. Jump on in and have some fun!
  14. I'm working on some custom moldings for my son's window and I needed to use my Dad's planer to get some lumber down to thickness. The planer was so dern loud (he has an old one), I'm afraid that I really damaged my hearing today. 8 hours later, my ears still hurt. If my ears don't feel better by morning, I'll have to make an appointment with the doctor. I should have known better. Its just mere stupidity that I left my hearing protection at home. So I thought I'd throw this out for y'all. Make sure you have all of your safety equipment within easy reach. If its hard to get to, you won't use it. But if its within arms reach, you're more inclined to use it. This includes ear protection (get the muffs, not just ear plugs), eye protection (I've had a piece of wood in my eye and that's the most miserable week you'll ever spend) and a good quality dust mask. If you don't own some of these items, that is your absolute next tool purchase. I know what I'll be buying next paycheck, some extra hearing protection for my dads shop and some extra safety equipment for me to place around my own shop.
  15. That turned out great. Letters are the one thing I struggle with. You did a beautiful job on them. I really like the shadow lines too. It really adds a lot of dimension and interest to the sign. Nicely done!
  16. Woodcraft is a good choice. Rockler too should have what you're looking for. Many times, sanding sleeves are pretty standard sizes. You might try Sears or one of the Home Improvement stores too.
  17. Maybe the reverse teeth aren't makeing it above your saw bed. Sometimes that can happen on some saws with a deep stroke. Here's a few things that may help. Make sure you have cabinet grade Baltic Birch plywood. The stuff from the home center isn't very good and tends to splinter quite a bit. I'd find a hardwood dealer, a cabinet shop, or order your ply online. You could use painters tape on the bottom. That adds quite a bit of support. Along the same idea of using "scrap ply", try taping on some thin cardboard (like the stuff from a cereal box) to the back of the workpiece. And lastly, you could add a zero-clearance insert for extra support. That will be especially useful for fragile and delicate fretwork. Thats all I can think of off the top of my head. I hope one of them fixes your troubles. Maybe someone else has some ideas too.
  18. I'm not sure how well wood glue would stick. I'd use a two part epoxy glue. You can find it at most hardware stores. Squeeze some out on some scrap wood, stir it with a toothpick, and apply it. That should stick pretty much anything you need.
  19. That is a beautiful cutting and pattern. Very nice reminder and tribute. Thank you for sharing!
  20. That turned out awesome. You did a great job on it. I bet your bro loved it. Nicely done!
  21. That turned out really pretty. What kind of wood did you use? You did a great job on it. Thanks for sharing!
  22. That turned out great! Poplar is one of my favorite woods to cut. I especially like them for toys. Fairly cheap and cuts really nice. I'm really enjoying your Zodiac Puzzle series. Good job!
  23. Boy, those turned out nice. I really like the Last Supper one. You did a great job on all of them.
  24. I don't think you'd have any trouble selling those. They turned out great. Nicely done!
  25. Travis

    vase

    Boy, that turned out really pretty. I really like the grain of the pine. Adds a nice effect, especially on the basket weave pattern. Nicely done.
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