kardar2

you might check out Sue May website to I dont have her site handy but if you google her name you will find it.

IT has been a few months and getting the itch again. Spring came and I have been so busy with kayaking riding bicycle and camping and working that my shop was a catch all, and my kids think dad and moms garage is a rent free storage shed. well she is all cleaned up and going out today to play. going out to take inventory of supplies. I did notice on my flying dutch blades are rusty not to bad I will use these ones up first. do any of you soak your blades in oil? normally I use them up pretty fast. Well to all of my scroll saw brothers and sisters hello again and I am back in the shop.

Thanks This was a major step outside of my comfort zone LOL. I made a TV tray with the same design but the two part resin did not harden I was so up set. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

And here it is Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

This is almost done I have to stain the side rails the poly them and the legs and it is finished Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hello All, Well I made a light box out of cardboard awhile back........Ohhh no !! now I need a bigger one but where in earth am I going to store it. Well I was thinking of making one out of plywood and having the inside painted with (?) gloss enamel paint or flat paint ? and on the sides small windows for lighting. I was thinking of putting the box on wheels so I could roll it around the garage. The front would have a door that swings up and I would have a light mounted inside up on top of door. Well what do you guys think? Thanks for the input...Karl

Hello All, I did a search on this subject but nothing came up. Any way I need a detail sander, I never had one before. I went looking at Lowe's today and found that they are all pretty much the same price. So is there one better than the others for what us scroller's need. thanks for your input. Karl

I really love my EXCALIBUR

Hello All. I have an opportunity to buy a red hawk 226 saw that is still in the box. this guy's wife bought it for him 15 years ago and he never took it out of the box. his wife said she bought it for $1500.00 I saw the box but did not look at the saw I just talked to the wife. she said how about a $1000.00 so I said I am not sure I will think about it. Her husband was out of town and will be back tomorrow and I will call him next week. So what do you guys think.

thanks for the info

Tdub4ever I am trying to visualize your set up can you send me some pic and info. Thanks Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hello I need to buy a router table a bench top to be exact. Well I went to Lowes website and looking at the reviews. The Bosch got some low reviews. The Kreg did not have any reviews. So my question is : is Kreg worth the extra money. Or should I get a better one. Is there a better one? Thanks. Karl Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I was driving around yesterday and saw these sitting and not really knowing what I was looking at, I was looking from a ways off I asked the guy if I could have them? he said yeah I going to throw them away any ways. so I said I will be back tomorrow. well to my surprise it is all really grade "A" plywood very few knots. they were made to ship parts on to a construction site. now what on earth am I going to do with them hmm they are all 16" x 32" and the runners are 4x4 cut in half.

Well last weekend I made a light box out of a cardboard box. Man what A difference it made on my pictures of my woodworking. It was kinda a pain setting up the lights cause I had to hang a heat lamp from a ceiling Fan. So now I have to work on a lighting system. My qestion is does it make a big difference when using different. Types of bulbs? I had one flood light from top one desk lamp with a LED bulb. And a reg 100 w bulb. Any suggestions on the lighting would be great. I did notice the closer I brought the. Heat lamp down caused more shadows. Thanks Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hello all, I was reading a old scroll saw wood working and craft magazine (fall 2009) with giraffe puzzle on cover. I was reading the article on page 8 about the new law coming in to effect. About if you make toys you have to pay a 3rd party to test them for lead. In magazine it said coming in 2010 but I looked at the website and it looks like they are taking comments from the public next month. So please get the word out. Thanks. Here is website. http://www.cpsc.gov/about/cpsia/cpsia.html Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hello all, I had a great summer! The family and I got to go to lake Powell .I moved into a new house this summer and still trying to get organized. I think I am almost there. I hung my heat lamp over my scroll saw and now I have to go to harbor frieght and get me some tarps to hang in my garage that way I am not heating up the whole garage. Now I got to do inventory of blades, wood and stuff. So are you ready to hunker down and wait out old man winter? Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

The sealer you want is called anchorsealer2 you can get it at woodcraft

This is what I found over at another forum and would like to share it with you all. just in case some one might want to or need to save money by re sawing your own wood. If you're thinking about seasoning your own stock, there's a lot to know before you begin. But in the end, it's how you build the stack that really counts. Many woodworkers prefer air-dried stock to the kiln-dried variety because they say it works easier and offers truer color. Then, there's the money savings. Air-drying your own stock can save you at least 50 percent over kiln-dried boards from your lumber retailer. But, doing it yourself does require time, effort, know-how, and the room for stacking and storing. To help you avoid the mistakes that result in firewood, we contacted an experienced, hands-on expert. Green wood, wet wood--but not all the same Robert McGuffy has headed up the wood-drying sequence at the Anderson-Tully Company's Vicksburg, Mississippi, hardwood-processing facility for decades. At this complex, the largest of its kind in the U.S., Robert has the responsibility for air-drying, and then kiln-drying, about 70 million board feet of hardwood every year. And it's a mix that includes 65 species--all coming to him in varying degrees of wetness. "Southern species, when you first cut 'em, are different in how much moisture they have," Robert says. "Take white ash, for instance. It has about a 60-percent moisture content. Cottonwood and willow will run 180 percent. Red oak runs 80-90 percent." Editor's note: The degree of wetness in wood is called moisture content, and it's expressed as a percentage. But that percentage often can exceed 100 because it represents the ratio of the weight of the water in a piece of wood to the weight of the same wood when it is completely dry. For example, a piece of green wood weighs 50 lbs.; dry, it weighs 20 lbs. That means that the green wood contained 30 lbs. of moisture, or 30/20th of its dry weight was water. As a percentage (30 divided by 20 equals 1.5), that's a moisture content of 150 percent! Such a variance, of course, means that each species--even where you live--requires either less or more time to dry down to the desired moisture content. At Anderson-Tully, the goal is to air-dry the boards to a 25-percent moisture content. Then, they're ready for the kiln where they'll be reduced to about eight percent. Without a kiln, you should try to achieve an air-dry moisture content of 15-20 percent. Further moisture reduction occurs when you move the boards indoors where they'll eventually reach their equilibrium moisture content (EMC). (Note: The EMC equals a point where the wood neither takes on nor loses moisture due to the atmosphere.) According to the U.S. Forest Service's Forest Products Laboratory in Madison, Wisconsin, it takes 1"-thick green boards from 45-60 days to air dry to 15-20 percent moisture content in sunny, temperate, not-too-humid weather. If you live where it's colder and damper, count on more time. Inside, the drying process can prove slower, taking three or four months before the wood reaches its EMC and can be worked. But achieving workable stock means starting with a proper stack. Site your stack, then build it right Pick a storage spot for your boards that's in the open, but avoid low, damp, or boggy areas. And, keep the stack from under trees that can litter it with twigs and leaves. On the other hand, don't pick the sunniest spot in your yard--your boards might dry too rapidly. Keep wind direction in mind, too. Says the experienced Robert McGuffy: "The [prevailing] wind should blow through the side of the stack, not through an end. It'll dry much quicker going through the side, and you won't get end-checks." At Anderson-Tully, Robert takes extra precaution so the green boards won't degrade in the drying process. "We dip them in an anti-stain sealer, and then put them on stickers [strips of wood that separate the board layers]," he says. "And we seal the ends." Home woodworkers can do practically the same thing, notes Robert. "Paint the ends of all boards with latex paint [or a commercial sealant such as Sealtite 60 or Mobilicer-M]. Or, put double side-by-side stickers under them. The check won't go past that second stick. We make our stickers out of most any soft wood [meaning soft hardwood}: poplar, cottonwood, any low-grade lumber," Robert explains. "But I wouldn't make any out of walnut--that stains. The species of the stickers doesn't make that much difference, as long as you make them all the same size. Ours are ripped to 1-1/8" wide from boards dressed to 7/8" thick. If the thickness varies, even a little but, you'll have wavy boards." Figure on cutting enough stickers per board course to lay them every 2' along the length of the boards. Determine the length of the stickers by estimating the width of the stack you intend to make. Once you cut the stickers, begin stacking the boards as shown below. moisture meter Enlarge Image What you need to know about drying wood Drying your own wood can be great, if you follow this advice: Be sure to level the stack's foundation, but provide for a slight drainage slope. Put down a vapor barrier if the ground seems damp. Select only straight-grained, defect-free boards no thicker than 2" and less than 12" wide. Check the stack occasionally. Stains or mildew signal drying too slowly. Excessive checking means drying too fast. A moisture meter (about $100 at woodworking suppliers), as shown at the top of this page, is the most reliable means of determining moisture content. Check the wood every few weeks outdoors and after moving it indoors. Written by Peter J. Stephano Illustration: Brian Jensen Photograph: Hethertington Photography

Thanks travis for the info. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Hello All, I am going to be cutting down a live walnut tree and a oak tree and am going to let the wood sit for a year or two and I had read some where that you need to paint the butts with paint to prevent cracking. Is any ol paint good for this or is there a certain product that I need to get. Also is it okay riley it sit outside in the winter we get a lot of rain and in the summer it can get to 112 degrees. Thanksfor the help Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

HELLO ALL, So I got this bench at a garage sale and the oak slates need to be taken off and sanded down so what kind of stain/ finish to protect it from the elements. Thanks for the advise Karl Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Cherrytree.com Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

I would start out cheap or buy a used saw and see if you would enjoy it there are some little things to look out for. The saws that use only ( pin end blades) I would stay away from the reason is that you are very limited. To the variety. Of blades out on the market. The second thing is make sure it has variable speed. Other than that it is all getting down and letting saw dust fly. Once you get the hang of it you will know what you want in the next up grade you do on a saw. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Good deal

Hey have you been in my garage? That totally looks like my storage area LOL Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk