JTTHECLOCKMAN

Those are my vertebra numbers that get screwed up on me the most. Have had them go out so many times and the worse was during the pandemic. My chiropractor would not open the office because we were in lock down so for 2 months I suffered in pain. How did your surgery go? was there any side effects? Do you have limitations like movement with the fusion? Thanks.

It is never good reading of accidents that happen in a shop. any tool in a shop can hurt but any tool that has a cutting blade can hurt that much more. stay safe and work with much care. My biggest accident was with an exacto knife. i was cutting the molds off I use for my pen blank making that I use when pour resins, and the blade slipped and it was a decent cut. Bandaid did the trick but being on blood thinners, that was not pretty. What a mess.

Back when I had mine I would have had to change the upper arm. I forgot what the price was but I just got use to the tension knob in the rear. I had a mark on the knob to know exactly where to stop to tighten properly. I wound up using mine basically for cutting those collapsible baskets because I would set it up for the correct angle. I made so many of those things back then it was worth it. That was a smooth cutting saw for sure. I was not a fan of the blade holder but you get use to them. I added the knurled blade knob which helped. I had extra clamps so I preloaded some which helped production speed. Back then I was just entering the world of scrolling and had all the $$$ dreams. I have no complaints and would do it over if all things equal but as we read here more often people are having a hard time at shows. It is too bad. Man I must have made hundreds of those type baskets as well as converted many to clocks and even mirrors which Rick suggested too. Used various woods but mainly maple, walnut mahagony which was beautiful to cut and of course oak which I stained a dark color at times too. Again one of these days I need to convert photos from film to digital. I can still remember setting up my table display in my living room to try to get a layout so all I had to do at show was unpack and display. I made this 8 foot plywood wall with stands for all my shelves and wall hanging things. I cut it in half and used a piano hinge so easier to carry but 3/4" plywood X 8 feet was not lite. Man the good old days. brings back the memories. I made a bunch of display shelves for the stores I was setup in and those are still in my attic. I even made those with a fancy scrolled design. I was truely into scrolling back then. I think I still have a few of those baskets tucked away in storage somewhere. I have so much older projects that fell out of favor over the years but never got rid of them. So they are still part of inventory. I also have a bunch of projects that are half done that would really still look good today because people have not seen them for years. Have one of Dirk Boelman's mantle clocks that I really would love to finish. Wow Memory Lane.

Acetone will clean them all. You can try Denatured alcohol also.

I assume you are asking how to do stack cutting. There are a few threads here that talk about this but here is the latest. maybe you can pull things from it. many methods to adhere the layers of wood together. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/52854-stack-cutting/

I too have that pattern and probably have all of Rick's Patterns. remember Rick also had a magazine he sent out as part of a club package and they had patterns in them. Not sure what the rules are with that too. Many of those patterns are nowhere to be found in any books.

I do not know about all that fancy folding because if someone buys a piece they would want to change napkins easily. So I just fold corner to corner to make a triangle. now with some napkins they have a fancy edge and you can see in the back of one of mine I show. I keep that all the same. You see the pattern right away when you fold a couple. The key is not to crease the fold so hard. You want it to open some when you place in the holders.

All well and good as long as the kids do not listen to their music with earbuds and turned way up. I see this all the time and not good because kids think they are invincible.

All scrollsaws are in the 70 to 90 dB range. To compare talking normally is about 60dB. Will a scrollsaw affect hearing loss? yes it could if you saw for long periods of time. best to use ear protection. Can you make a saw quieter? yes to some extent but not much. Solid base or rubber mat under the saw can take away some noise. As mentioned speed of the saw will affect noise as well as materials being cut. But to me the biggest noise producer is when people hook up shop vacs to them. that raises the noise level to dangerous levels even for small periods of time. hearing protection is definetly needed and should be used in a work shop anyway along with eye protection.

Need to answer a few questions first that may help. First are the blades flat on the back side?. Sometimes blades have a bow to them and even when you put tension on them it is not enough to take the bow out. Next are any of the blades from either pack #7 or #9 able to square up in the holders? Most those type scrollsaws have set screws on the sides of the holders that help center the blade so it is 90 degrees side to side. I always found that if I set one side setscrew just about flat with one side of the clamp and use the other screw to tighten the blade it keeps the blade from twisting in the clamp. I do this on both sides of the clamps top and bottom. If you have screws sticking too far out it is possible for the blade ends to bend out of shape. So next question is, are the ends of the blades bent in anyway after you release them from tension? If you do not hold the blade to the back of the clamp it can have a tendency to creep forward and add that bend I am talking about and this causes more rocking of the blade. Finally those saws actually cut in a rocking manner so no matter where you set the arm and place the square it will show daylight either on top or bottom. You are looking for a consistent rocking motion from top of blade to bottom of blade as it travels in the cutting motion. If you could find the exact center of the arm travel and then set the square against that you should see equal light distant both top and bottom of blade. You could also just move the arm up and down and watch the movement and by eye see if there is equal distance. I know on the Dewalt saws especially the type #1 saws there was a trick that everyone did to take out alot of that rocking motion and get it more parallel up and down stroke and that was to lift the back of the table ever so slightly. I will show you a photo of what I did with mine. So a few questions that can help others help you.

They are all the same on those type. Just copy one from that link that was provided. If you are asking about the rings that hold the napkins.

Many things here. A sewing machine uses a universal motor that can be wired to be run on AC or DC. The speed is controlled with the foot which is part of the motor circuitry. The scrollsaw motor has a resistor pot that controls the speed of the motor and is part of that circuitry. if you add another speed controller you now change the current supplied through the pot on the saw and thus can burn up the board or the motor or both because they work in tandem. Change out the scrollsaw motor to a sewing machine motor and have at it. Comparing driving a car to operating a scrollsaw is apples and watermellons. You do not have to believe me for one second. Have at it. Now each saw does not use the same type motors but if it has brushes I advise you to not try but heck I am nobody. Good luck. Learning to control speed by feed pressure is the best way to scroll in my opinion.

Well I too do not want to be a wise guy. But to go into the workings of varying AC current on a DC motor is not a good idea. You will burn the motor out. Believe me. Besides you scroll all the time at one speed. If you have to control speed while cutting you will not be able to control it with your foot and concentrate on the cutting. Way too many things to be thinking about when cutting fine details. Control speed with the saw's controller. This question has been asked recently here and the OP wanted to leave the saw at full speed and use a sewing machine foot pedal. But again you can not do it or should I say can not do it for a long sustained time without damage to either the control board or motor. The way you control cutting speed is done one of 2 ways. speed of the saw with that controller or your feed rate. Plain and simple.

Look at the stickers and badges too. definitely 2 different saws. The stand was not even assembled correctly on the top one. So many things point to different saws.

Yea been doing that for years. I use a piece of marble tile I bought from Home Depot because it is a smooth surface and no grain. Some people use a piece of glass. Just spray back of sandpaper and stick to surface. Works well and many times I need to do a wet sanding for some pens and with the tile again no problem.

One other point that I would like to mention that can throw your picture framing production off is the saw being used as well as the blade choice. First the saw used, weather it is a tablesaw, a mitersaw either electric or hand operated, the blade must be 90 degrees to the table. Any amount of cantor in the blade, one way or other, will throw the 45 degree cut off. Next you would like to use a blade that has alot of teeth and this prevents splintering. I like to use at least a 60 tooth blade. You want a clean and sharp blade. If you use one with alot of pitch on it, it too can throw the cut off. Lastly the blade used depends on your quality of saw. Also the material and size of stock used. If you are using a thin kerf blade as most people do, it can have a tendency of flexing especially if cutting hardwoods such as red and or white oak. A full kerf 1/8" blade is a better choice. Cut slow through your stock and do not force it especially if using a thin kerf blade for this will flex the blade. Any small deflection from the points made in this thread can affect the look of the miters. Remember for each cut it multiplies the errors. Just some of my thoughts.

I would like to make a point about this method. If you are using flat stock and want to stack cut you can probably get away with it, but if you are using anything with fancy routed designs or if the profile of the stock is tapered then do not stack because the 45 degree cut will not be true. Your frame pieces must be flat on the saw when cutting. Best to cut one at a time. Just my opinion. This practice is carried over when doing moldings around doors and windows.

If I may make a suggestion. Never work with measurements when cutting sides. Work with a jig that has stop blocks. If you place your blank against the stop blocks they have to be the same length. If you use pencil marks and try to line up to blade you can be off just enough to throw measurements off. There are many jigs on the net to show. And of course that 45 degree cut needs to be accurate also. Good luck.

Looks good. Guess you were going for that singed burnt look as a finish. If miters are not square means the pieces were not equal on the opposite sides. Also needs to be 45 degrees accurately if making 4 sided. Good luck.

I too looked at the photo and see it is a Sureply wood product. They make both underlayment as well as flooring so hard to say what you have. But if it is the underlayment that is a poplar wood top layer. Yes it is very flat and void free. There are other brands that are just as good but what are the inner cores made from and as Bill said many times that plywood does splinter when cut. They always recommend to score with a razor knife first before cutting to prevent this when they lay this on the floor. Now if it is a flooring which I do not think it is because of the width then that could be different. Also looking at the wood closely you see small holes in it thus tells me it is a undelayment plywood. You could try it and see what you think is the only way for sure to find out. Good luck.

To me there is no better finish than a good coat of lacquer when you want a top coat that is durable and easy to apply. Poly is a plastic and many times it looks like it when applied on a nice piece of wood. I have used Deft for many years but when Lowes stopped carrying it in 2013 and Deft stopped making it I switched to Watco and found that to be as good. I use alot of lacquers over the years. This new can is suppose to be the same formula but there is no talk of it on woodworking sites for proof. everyone tells people to call the company to find out for sure. Why the marble I do not know but to me that is an indication the formula must be different if it needs a strong mixing. You get that with marbles to break up the solids.

That is the wife's job.

I say loosen up a little. You look a little too stiff behind that saw.

The problem with this question is we do not know what you have done on a scrollsaw to begin with. We all have family obligations and other projects we need to work on and that goes without saying. Everyone can say there is never enough time in the day to do everything and if you say that then carve out some alone time to enjoy a hobby. if that be scrolling then there are tons of projects as well as different types of projects that can be done with a scrollsaw. Be creative and combine woodworking skills that maybe you picked up with working on your house. Maybe you used a lathe some so combine projects that use both a lathe as well as a scrollsaw. I use a lathe and combine using a router with a lathe. I gravitated away from the scrollsaw in the past few years because I do not do shows any more and I have plenty of stock if need be. So I challenge myself on free times that I have on the lathe which is just as rewarding. My point is you do not need us to tell you what to do in your free time. But if you want suggestions on a scrollsaw give us some insight as to what you have done in the past. We can not follow you if you do not post so we have no idea what your talent level is. Help us to help you.

I too am a self taught scroller from way back. Forums like this were not there but there were some old forums that I am sure a few members here recall back in the day. There were many pattern makers that have pasted away but their work still lives on. This all paved the way for more talent. Hopefully along the way I did help a few people out with some of what I picked up along my journey down the path of this hobby which has been fun and rewarding. If asked a question I try my best to pass information on. Now as we all know there is always more than one way to do just about anything so the more ideas one has to chose from hope they can make up their own minds and follow their own paths. But bottom line is always have some fun along the way. Making a few $$$ is a bonus in the long run. Giving away our work is also so rewarding in many ways. Happy Scrolling.