JTTHECLOCKMAN

I read Kevin's comment about the aggressiveness a saw can cut at. Again my opinion that is a non factor. My Rbi has 2 setting for the blade clamps and I never used the more aggressive setting the entire time I had it. I believe you can adjust aggressiveness with the blade used. When you start taking the saw out of parallel movement of the blade now you run the risk of overcutting your lines. That is why most saws went away from the "C" frame to a more up and down system like the close parallel link system on these type Dewalt saws. just an opinion.

Well I wish you all the best of luck with the HF saw. I never said it was not a worthy saw for the price. My opinions mean nothing. I do have some knowledge looking at tools for cosmetic opinions. Internals I go by reviews. As I said the reviews on this Bauer saw are just not old enough to make comments. Give it a few years and go from there or if someone who has really put it through some testing by using for some time. My thoughts on those blade clamps is simply one person's opinion. Plastic on metal is never a good combination. I do not own a saw that uses these so again have no experience with them but from moving them I can see a wear area and that would be a concern. There is a better option to replace so no big deal in the entire picture. As far as playing with the tools. go to Home depot or Lowes. Tools are not up on high shelves. yes alot of the handheld tools are now behind locked fences due to theft. Not the stores fault. I use to have a tool place here many years ago called Force Machinery and they had every tool able to be touched and even they would demonstrate for you. I bought my entire workshop from them. Spent a ton of money with them because of the service and quality of tools they sold. Years ago we had a Woodcraft store near me and there too you could walk in there and play with the tools and at least see first hand. They too will demonstrate the tools. All these type stores are long gone. I guess HF trys to emulate these type stores to a degree with lower prices. I would think a new tool would be out front and center for better advertising. My guess is there is not much call for those type saws so they put on a shelf and make room for tools that move more. They had a small bench top bandsaw up there also. Plus the size of these HF stores is small compared to all the things they carry.

Yea but something like that you want to see it. I never buy anything sight unseen and can care how good return policy is. It now cost you to go return it. put some of the lesser tools up there. The lady right away wanted to go get me one out from the back. I said I am there to look. Picked up a bunch of tie wraps while I was there. use them all over the place. Going to my church this Sat to help put outside Christmas lights up so will use them there. Was not a waste of time anyway. Now they had another one smaller and it was on the middle shelf. You could have played with that one all you want. I would have switched them. Anyway that is my report. I have none. Good luck to all that buy them.

Well I stopped by a HF today as I said I would do. I saw that Bauer saw but that is all I could do was see it. It was on a top shelf lashed down so no one could steal it. As someone could carry that out. The table is massive and beefy. The tension clamp up front is garbage. that will wear very quickly so change it to Pegas and you do better. Other than that I could not play with it. I could not see the name plate to see if it showed the origin of where it is made so I still do not know. Other than that it is what it prices out to be a mid range saw with who know how good the parts are. Time will tell. I never can understand why HF does that but many of their tools you can not play with. Not good sales program.

2 of the best in the business. I too have their books from way back. At one time I was thinking of getting into furniture making. But just did not have the room for a large shop.

When I first got into the scrolling and woodworking business I was put in touch with Jeff Jewitt from Homestead Finishing. this goes back quite a few years. he was the big name in finishing and talking with him over those times he told me about the waterbased lacquers and also good quality spray guns and HVLP sprayers and things like this. I bought one of the guns he recommended and love it for it does what I needed it to do and that was spray lacquers. Have been using for over 20 years. Here is an article he wrote for fine woodworking that explains alot. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2004/11/01/selecting-a-finish He use to have a web site and now I do not know what this is because I have not ordered from them in awhile but I use to deal with Homestead Finishing. https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/contact-and-ordering-info/. You can contact Jeff through there and order everything. Is there other sources, I am sure there is. But that is where I started and trusted. As far as shelf life. I never really had a open can that was more than 1/4 full left over and it lasted a couple years. I have right now full gallon can and also a full quart can and it is fine. Not sure when I will be using it for my scrolling days and large woodworking projects are non existent. I just moved the cans the other day to get at some other finishes I need for my moldings in my house.

Grizzly is running a sale now. I thought I saw an ad somewhere. Yea it was you who brought it up as I looked back. https://www.grizzly.com/holiday-sale/2024/scroll-saws Scott (Iggy) that is him. Have not seen him here. Hope he is doing well. I have to go some place Wed. this week and I will be passing a HF. I think I will stop in and take a look at the scrollsaw.

2 quarts is what I think. If you are just doing outside. Depends on how many coats you apply and you do not want to spray too thick but do not want orange peel either. That stuff flows on evenly. Just need to mix well They have videos on their site of how to use. Jeff is a great teacher and any questions just call and ask him. By the way I have always used the 6000. They just came out with the 7000 which is a higher thicker material. I called them about a month ago about it and was told it works just like the 6000 but you can get away with less coats because of the thicker material. Now it probably needs a different setting of the gun and maybe even a wider nozzle but not sure. i told them maybe at some time down the road I would give a try.

Sealing with lacquer is fine. I was just thinking about the smell. It will linger for a long time because you keep drawers closed. I still would use shellac spray inside and not worry about smells transferring to objects. I use this stuff when spraying waterbased lacquer. It acts just like Nitro except that smell is far less irritating and cleanup is a snap. Dries just as fast. Each coat melts into the last one. https://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/water-based-lacquers/ General Finishes has a product called Enduro but again you need a spray gun. There is no rattle can water based lacquers that I know of. If you can spray outdoors then nitro lacquer would be easy. Plenty of choices of rattle can I use Deft the most but have used Watco too. I like Satin look. Not a big fan of high gloss on works like that. Remember lacquer dries in about 3 hours but cure time is at least 48 hours. The longer the better you let sit before you wrap them it will be helpful. Lacquer does not yellow like poly does and the reason I like it alot. Plus ease of applying. If you want to use poly then a wipe on poly is probably best but will need sanding and to do that I use nonwoven pads which are just like steel wool but do not break down and leave specs

Absolutely beautiful. They will be well received for sure. Not sure what your total plans are and what stains you will use. But if it were me, all the drawers I would spray the inside and outside where they are not exposed with spray shellac to seal the wood even if you stain it. I would also shellac the inside of the box itself. Again to seal it. Wood will swell and those drawers could swell. Even if you do not stain inside. Any oil stains will take time for odor to disapate and shellac will seal. The outside if it were me after stain I would finish with spray lacquer.I love lacquer much more than poly. You can use a satin which I think would look great. You can put on as many coats as you want and not have to worry about sanding between coats providing you keep dust free. Nibs of dust are annoying. You can always polish with a fine automotive black sandpaper or what I like to use is Micromesh cloth and lemmon oil. All depends how extensive you want to go into finishing. Skip the polishing will look great too. Being I have the ability and shop to do it I would spray using a HVLP and waterbased lacquer. Rattle cans works well too. It is a Nitro lacquer and smell is strong so be aware of that. Post photos when done. This is just an opinion so others will chime in.

Now that sounds great.

I am the same way when people ask but then I get the pushback well not everyone can afford a top of the line saw. Well buy saws like this and then you are spending time rebuilding and if you can not then money on someone who can. Today there are so many highend saws showing up in the market pages because I believe scrollsawing is just hitting a flat spot and will it ever jump again who knows. But these points should be made known. The numbers are more staggering if that person really wants to get into or at least give it a try to make some cash and give scrolling a legit try. Oh well to each their own as Ray would say. Now I am seeing why and I can not remember his name because I do not see him here often any more. (the guy who did all the animal puzzles) he went through so many Dewalt saws and was mind blowing.

Yes I think I have it somewhere and I have talked to him back aways. I just need to try it and practice. Thanks. He makes it look easy.

Maybe so but still if you want to say out of those 5 hours your saw runs 3 hours or even 2 hours. Heck if you want to say an hour, not even a years worth of saw time. That is 150 days out of the year. Not even a half year of saw time. And people are clamoring over these type saws? I would not touch with a 10 foot pole if I were planning on doing production work. That is within your numbers. I can honestly say when I was in production mode I would scroll for a good 6 to 7 hours a day. I prep alot of work ahead of time and then just scroll. It was a production line type set up. I had to to keep up. Alot depends on the type of cutting too. if you are doing alot of intricate fret work, sure the saw time is down because all the stopping and starting but that too adds to heavy wear on those so called delicate bushings and the motor. Now if you do puzzles then saw time is greatly increased because less stop time. Same thing with larger less fret work projects. You can break it down anyway you want but if spending $500 on a saw it better last longer than 2 years or you better get warranty and use it. Not everyone has the ability to take saws apart. Man this is sort of an eye opener and would lean more and more toward a quality highend saw if you have intentions of going into production. If doing occasional cutting, a few days a week and maybe seasonal then saws like this are fine. Just something to think about when choosing a saw. Really any tool with a motor needs this thought process. I am so glad I bought RBI saws. I bet when I was cutting these puzzles the saw ran a true 6 hours a day. Slower fine cutting and no fret work. Prepped 50 or so at a time. No stack cutting with these. I probably could have worn a saw out just cutting all these out.

Yea we drifted off course but this happens when you beat a dead horse too much. I like the ice cream touch.

Very nice work all around. I did alot of that type relief cutting as you put it when I was making shelves like this. Also magazine racks and things like that. It gives the project some depth and adds a different look. What I want to learn to do is work like Dave Monk does where inlays designs that are flat in the project. One of these days I really want to try that because I have a few ideas I would like to do. I think that stuff is cool and his boxes are beautiful.

This is unbelievable. So you tell me if you scrolled on the saw for 5 hours a day you get 60 days of sawing./? 2 months and you are rebuilding a saw? Wow is all I can say. Just wow.

Have you or anyone else looked on the saw to see where it was made? Should say somewhere on the saw. Is it Tawain or China?

Rocky Road here. Dairy Queen is my choice. See we can not even agree on ice cream shop.

It is not a wrench per-se. It is a holder to hold the blade clamp so you can tighten and loosen to change a blade. hegner has this Rbi has this and Jet has this and here is Jets video and is same as the Baeleigh saw. You can preload blades so that you just change entire blade clamp with blade already set in it. Saves time. It is built into the blade holding rack on the edge. Not sure I like where it is mounted but I believe you could make something more accessible pretty easily if you put your mind to it. https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=jet+scrollsaw+instructions&mid=D4EEDBE7466418FBB4AED4EEDBE7466418FBB4AE&FORM=VIRE

Kevin when I looked for the maker I saw the original link and it said the scrollsaw was made in the USA. I have no idea about patents and all that. After some more digging I saw that they sold out and now make tools around the world so maybe they had another saw before this one and it was USA made. All these saws are clones.

Your opinion my friend You can not sell me so do not try it. Have fun. Non motor stuff is fine but anything with a motor is all yours. I put them in the old Black and Decker catagory. If anyone remembers Black and Decker tools.

Not sure what you are talking about because I am sure you heard of Grizzly tools. This company started out more in the metal working tools and industrial sized. probably when they got bought out they switched to home owner tools. I know when they were at woodworking shows they showed large tools such as bandsaws and things like that. 25 years in the tool business is not that long. https://www.toolsadvisor.org/where-are-grizzly-tools-made/

If the saw was American made would make a huge difference. Especially for parts and spending money here in USA so it does make a difference. Unfortunately tools made in the USA are a thing of the past. $$$ controls supply's. Maybe this company has a good handle on parts too. You just do not hear much about their scrollsaws.

My opinion is probably worthless because I do very little bevel cutting. The big difference is with a tilting arm the cutting piece is always laying flat and you do not have to worry about it sliding off as you cut. Just one less thing to think about when doing bevel cuts. Back in my day when I was buying saws this option was not available so I learned on a tilting table top. I made it work well. I use to cut those collapsible baskets/ trivets and they needed bevel cutting of the rings. I made many of those. I would say if I were buying today I would like the tilting arm better. Then there are some scroller that never done bevel cutting and have no idea what the difference is. Try both and you will see first hand what it looks like. Now I do not want to sway you with your choice . As many people know me here and know I am not a fan of HF power tools of any kind. they can brand them with any name they want but to me they are cheap price for a reason. But with that said their warrenty is far better than that of Dewalt or the store you buy it from. Dewalt has been around a long time. The Bauer saw is brand new and no reviews worth anything are out yet. Tough choice but just stating facts. I am sure either saw will give you a great scrolling experience. others can chime in. Both saws land in the mid range area of scrollsaw evaluations. and price range.