JTTHECLOCKMAN

Got it. This would be used to augment the cup holder. This would not be a useable item, it would be far too fragile for use, it would sit on a shelf and be pretty.

hey you got it done and looks nice. Now these are not knocks just thoughts. What happens when hot or cold is placed against it? I know you will seal it but what happens when wetness hits it. I see too many floating areas that can break off because they do not bend like in the lettering. Maybe if you used a different font whare all parts are touching. Finally being that thin it is fragile for an application where cups can be jammed in. Only bringing these up if you intend to sell or give away. if for your self go for it.

I agree with Kevin about good quality brushes makes huge differences. You see it in construction when painting walls and houses. Quality is key. Years ago and I use them alot is buy artist brushes which I think Kevin is talking about. I too bought at Michaels. I use those only for real special work or if I need to lay down smooth paint job. Sometimes you have to spend money to make money. I love quality tools. Just makes life easier and I do not have to repair. Also in the same isle is artist paints which are good quality paints and I have bought many of those over the years too. But all acrylic. Nothing waterbase about paints for these kind of projects. Too thin and raise the grain too much.

Can you use a foam brush. I just bought for gluing purposes but can see how they can also be paint brushes because they are used by the ladies for makeup. They are little cotton brushes. They are going to work fine for my gluing . Maybe something to look into. These days you have to think outside the box. Acrylic paints for me if you are asking. Nothing waterbase on wood. If I can I always like to spray. One other suggestion and it will solve all your problems is get a good quality Airbrush

It could be the one that came off is a removable adhesive or a repositionable adhesive as they call it. 3m is permanent. and it sticks well. I use it on all my shipping labels too.

Space Force. That is it. Will be looking for Steve Good to do one of those I guess. I too always looked for military hats or jackets and strike up conversations as they pass by.

May I make a suggestion to start your own thread and ask this question. When you pick up on an older thread such as this many people pass over it knowing the dates. You will get better responses on your own thread. You will get many choices. Being a little late to do this but good luck.

Thanks. I do not remember her doing those. They are more basic in design and not to intricate. With my Marine I always had to be careful of the flag breaking when packing. Military will never go out of style. Any form of it. I started making these plaques just before I stopped doing shows and did quite well. The black outsold the blue. Now I am making military pens. Just started those. Those I gave away because again not selling anything these days. I am now in it for just the fun side. Been there done that.

Absolutely more fantastic. I can not even use a coping saw to cut backs of molding. A++++

Are you talking hand held Fret Saw?? If so more impressive. Hats off to you.

Anybody who has been scrolling for a long time remember Sylvia. She made me a few special patterns over the years. I asked her to make a bunch of designs for tops I started making when I got my lathe. Here is one of her designs and they were a hit with top seekers. I gave many of those away for years to kids when they came to my booth. Again combining 2 talents. Navy was the most asked for from me. Do you have a photo of her military ones? Do not see it on your web site. Can't sell them if you do not show them.

Rick had them in his collection. The one I got yelled at for not making by a customer was the Coast Guard. Now I would have to add the Space X or whatever it is called. I added the clock to his pattern. He did not have that.

I have a pattern with the pool rack of balls like that from many years ago somewhere. I never got around to making it. I do not remember whose pattern it was. This winter I will be making other billiardball items such as trinket boxes, now that I am into lathe work. I like to combine talents. Will be making a bunch of pool cue pens also to compliment the theme. I was suppose to make a few billiard ball themed wall clocks that again I never got around to. Have sketches drawn up somewhere. I am also working on a jig to be able to cut regular sized billiard balls as well as minis in half. This project may come to light this year because I want to incorporate them in other designs. I like billiards. Have not played in quite some time now. My table is covered over to use a staging area for many different projects. I put playing pool on the back burner years ago. Probably can not even get down low enough to line up a shot any more. Age does that.

Put a clock in anything. I put clocks in golf balls and billiardballs. I have made countless projects and just added a clock. To me clocks are still something everyone can relate to within the home. We all do not carry our phones in our hands all the time. Yet sometimes I wonder about that. Watches have become a thing of the past and yet people have to have their phones attached to their hands 24/7 These are all my ideas and patterns except the sailor which I took the pattern and added a clock. To me the clock adds to the value and lure. I never got into personalizing because of the pain in the butt. Got burned twice and now and always refused. I made a few exceptions over the years because the item was big$$$ You can do it with lasers and things and that is fine for you. But couple extra $$ I would have to charge to get it done is a waste of time and effort. I use to make scrolled name desk signs and man the different spelling of names and such became a hassle. Hardly could make inventory. Then they would want last names in them too. You have to draw the line somewhere so just stopped and being I like to create that is where I put my efforts.

It is so easy to make any pattern into a clock these days. I have shown many examples over the years. I thought you said clocks do not sell well any more.

You can buy colored veneer that is 1/64". 1/32" and 1/64" BB plywood is super thin layer. 3 layers in them.

Trying it is the best answer. But I do not think it will work because if you are cutting fret work with the bent wood you are reliving the pressure that is being applied to the fibers as you bend. I say it cracks where the cuts are made. Good luck.

When I was scrolling alot, I would use FedX all the time. Years ago when I first started I would just scan in sections and then put together with tape. Well back then copiers were not that reliable and many times each page was just a little off in size. I use to look for that good scanner in wherever I was trying. Lot different today.

Each blade company has a chart that helps with selections. But in the end it still comes down to your style of scrolling, woods and materials you are scrolling, and just how fast or push your blades all count. No one shoe size fits all. Brand of blades adds to the equation. Sorry but just the way it is.

if you cut one why did you not make multiple copies for future use? Just asking.

Not sure that was his. I saw this on FB.

Ok from what I see you sandwiched the glass between to of the same projects. You glued the glass to the backside of the front piece and then just laid the back piece over that. So you can see the edges of the glass between the 2 wood parts?

Need a water system to keep cool and get better life out of them. i say learn how to cut the pieces with a good quality glass cutter. Believe me when I say good quality cutter is a must. One that oils as you cut. Been there done that. I bought years ago a diamond small desk system grinder that works well. Name escapes me but I can look for it if you want me to. Again though it requires water. There is a scrollsaw water system I had seen somewhere before. Maybe a google search. I believe RBI has a drip tank system. Maybe you can adapt. They sell small pumps and things. You do not need alot of water cooling the blades, just drops.

A nice fluffy tree skirt under it and that really would look great. Either or works well.

Should not be too hard. The brown background and the maple with the lettering is treated separately Then treat the fish as a picture frame and go from there. Makes it look 3D. I would cut 2 pieces together for outside edges, walnut and maple. (taped together) Then scroll out the center for the fish design. Now to allow for the photos which that is up to customer to cut and shape, you cut a slot in top of fish that will allow to photos to be slid behind and can be moved around to where they want them. If you are thinking of putting dividers in as they have for photos there then you will need to relief those areas with a router so photos can slide by. I did this type thing for my Nephews many years ago when they were smaller and played little league. I made picture frames with a place for their baseball. They probably do not have them any more. I am sorry the only photos I have of them is probably on film. So long ago. Over 30 years ago.