JTTHECLOCKMAN

Now that you mentioned it I remember my clamps had a dimple too. I never paid attention to it .I guess that is why I never had a problem because I always was in range of the blades I used. I never used less than a #5 or more that a #9. I switched right away to that knurled knob clamp and that I guess is a universal so did not see any effect there either. That actually is a good thing because it was so easy to tighten.

Well I just got educated. Not that it matters I do not have my Hegner any more. I did not know they made 3 different blade clamps and never used them I used the knurled knob type and never had a problem. I used all kinds of blades and sizes in that saw but mainly #7 when I was cutting baskets out. Times I switched to #9. I actually think that is one stupid set up now that I know. Was never informed from sales person and guess never read this in booklet. I really did not like their blade clamp holding system to begin with but it did work well. Is there numbers, markings, or some other indication to let people know what size they are so OP can check his?? That universal blade clamp is what I used. Now I assume the lower blade clamp needs to be matched with blades. Again I never did that and how did I ever cut as much as I did. I never snapped any bolts or broken a darn thing. Kevin you should stay away from machinery. You have to rebuild everything you touch. Just a side note. Back in 1993 those blade clamps were $13.95 per set. It is in their catalog back then and never paid attention I guess. Now the use of spiral blades, not sure how they work in those clamps maybe someone can comment on them too. They were not around when I bought my saw. I assume they too need certain size clamps per size blades.

Tom Hegner has one blade holder type so concentrate on that. Forget about all others for different saws. Learn on your saw which is an excellent saw. It is one of the top of the line saws out there. Forget about spiral blades for now. Again get them out of your mind. Next Blade brand is not important so again get that out of your mind. Down the road when you get the feel of what you are doing and want to do you can experiment and the experimenting will mean much more to you than right now. Flying Dutchman are excellent blades and the only ones I use. Other here like Pegas which too are excellent blades. FD blades can be gotten from Mike's Workshop. and Pegas blades can be gotten from right here Denny. https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ When you talk plywood I hope you are talking Baltic or Finnish Birch because they will not splinter as much and make for better more stable pieces. Cherry can burn but a good suggestion is to look through the threads here under blade selections and see he many answers or others will give suggestions. My go to blade for most any cutting I do is a #5 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Love those blades. Good luck and have fun.

More info needed. What does the locking pin do and why do you need it? Do you have a manuel to help troubleshoot? Isn'T one way is locked and other way is open? I can not find a video which shows it in action or even talked about.

I used a branding iron for many years and still do. It is the basic heat till ready to apply. After awhile you get a feel when that is and how many brands you can get before you have to reheat. To me works great I got a custom made one with my name. Man I tried to remember the name of the company but I do know I found them in the back of a woodworking magazine. After checking on a woodworking site to ask if they were any good I got the OK. I will look to see if I can find the name.

Man I tried that years ago when I had my old Dremel and can tell you in my case waste of time and effort. How much effort to fix assembly? That would be my suggestion. Maybe jury rig something to fix it. Others may have had better luck with the pumps.

I will tell you this, that most those clocks are cut with a CNC machine. To get accurate cuts with a scrollsaw is a huge task. The gears need precision in the teeth. Can it be done ye it has been but you are tweaking all the time(No pun intended) Good luck.

Glad you like the saw and the more you use it you will get to understand the workings and little tricks you can do to help things along more. Good luck. As far as clock patterns, yes check this site, and Steve Goods site for free patterns to get your feet wet. When you get more specific reach out and maybe we can steer you in the direction. Clocks are always fun. There are so many variety of clock to be made so you will have to decide which way you want to go. Using clock inserts is always the easiest way. But will say you are now adding an expense to the project so keep that in mind. Some clock works are better than others but you can get lemons in all. Good luck and welcome to my world. JTTHECLOCKMAN

Very nice piece and am sure will be well received. The painting thing becomes tricky because where do you really want to stop. You can do the packages. You can do the green on the wreath and so on. If it is a wood scrollsawn project it might be best to leave it as such. But agree painting the ribbon can enhance it some. Very nice and have a Merry Christmas.

Nice idea. Makes a nice keepsake.

Put a false table top and see how close to top you can get. Use up a few more teeth.

Got it. This would be used to augment the cup holder. This would not be a useable item, it would be far too fragile for use, it would sit on a shelf and be pretty.

hey you got it done and looks nice. Now these are not knocks just thoughts. What happens when hot or cold is placed against it? I know you will seal it but what happens when wetness hits it. I see too many floating areas that can break off because they do not bend like in the lettering. Maybe if you used a different font whare all parts are touching. Finally being that thin it is fragile for an application where cups can be jammed in. Only bringing these up if you intend to sell or give away. if for your self go for it.

I agree with Kevin about good quality brushes makes huge differences. You see it in construction when painting walls and houses. Quality is key. Years ago and I use them alot is buy artist brushes which I think Kevin is talking about. I too bought at Michaels. I use those only for real special work or if I need to lay down smooth paint job. Sometimes you have to spend money to make money. I love quality tools. Just makes life easier and I do not have to repair. Also in the same isle is artist paints which are good quality paints and I have bought many of those over the years too. But all acrylic. Nothing waterbase about paints for these kind of projects. Too thin and raise the grain too much.

Can you use a foam brush. I just bought for gluing purposes but can see how they can also be paint brushes because they are used by the ladies for makeup. They are little cotton brushes. They are going to work fine for my gluing . Maybe something to look into. These days you have to think outside the box. Acrylic paints for me if you are asking. Nothing waterbase on wood. If I can I always like to spray. One other suggestion and it will solve all your problems is get a good quality Airbrush

It could be the one that came off is a removable adhesive or a repositionable adhesive as they call it. 3m is permanent. and it sticks well. I use it on all my shipping labels too.

Space Force. That is it. Will be looking for Steve Good to do one of those I guess. I too always looked for military hats or jackets and strike up conversations as they pass by.

May I make a suggestion to start your own thread and ask this question. When you pick up on an older thread such as this many people pass over it knowing the dates. You will get better responses on your own thread. You will get many choices. Being a little late to do this but good luck.

Thanks. I do not remember her doing those. They are more basic in design and not to intricate. With my Marine I always had to be careful of the flag breaking when packing. Military will never go out of style. Any form of it. I started making these plaques just before I stopped doing shows and did quite well. The black outsold the blue. Now I am making military pens. Just started those. Those I gave away because again not selling anything these days. I am now in it for just the fun side. Been there done that.

Absolutely more fantastic. I can not even use a coping saw to cut backs of molding. A++++

Are you talking hand held Fret Saw?? If so more impressive. Hats off to you.

Anybody who has been scrolling for a long time remember Sylvia. She made me a few special patterns over the years. I asked her to make a bunch of designs for tops I started making when I got my lathe. Here is one of her designs and they were a hit with top seekers. I gave many of those away for years to kids when they came to my booth. Again combining 2 talents. Navy was the most asked for from me. Do you have a photo of her military ones? Do not see it on your web site. Can't sell them if you do not show them.

Rick had them in his collection. The one I got yelled at for not making by a customer was the Coast Guard. Now I would have to add the Space X or whatever it is called. I added the clock to his pattern. He did not have that.

I have a pattern with the pool rack of balls like that from many years ago somewhere. I never got around to making it. I do not remember whose pattern it was. This winter I will be making other billiardball items such as trinket boxes, now that I am into lathe work. I like to combine talents. Will be making a bunch of pool cue pens also to compliment the theme. I was suppose to make a few billiard ball themed wall clocks that again I never got around to. Have sketches drawn up somewhere. I am also working on a jig to be able to cut regular sized billiard balls as well as minis in half. This project may come to light this year because I want to incorporate them in other designs. I like billiards. Have not played in quite some time now. My table is covered over to use a staging area for many different projects. I put playing pool on the back burner years ago. Probably can not even get down low enough to line up a shot any more. Age does that.

Put a clock in anything. I put clocks in golf balls and billiardballs. I have made countless projects and just added a clock. To me clocks are still something everyone can relate to within the home. We all do not carry our phones in our hands all the time. Yet sometimes I wonder about that. Watches have become a thing of the past and yet people have to have their phones attached to their hands 24/7 These are all my ideas and patterns except the sailor which I took the pattern and added a clock. To me the clock adds to the value and lure. I never got into personalizing because of the pain in the butt. Got burned twice and now and always refused. I made a few exceptions over the years because the item was big$$$ You can do it with lasers and things and that is fine for you. But couple extra $$ I would have to charge to get it done is a waste of time and effort. I use to make scrolled name desk signs and man the different spelling of names and such became a hassle. Hardly could make inventory. Then they would want last names in them too. You have to draw the line somewhere so just stopped and being I like to create that is where I put my efforts.