JTTHECLOCKMAN

I know that is a jab, Ray but that is OK. I just wanted add some knowledge being an electrician for over 50 years and have seen this side of innovation expand over the years. Like I said with new things comes new problems and maybe some are not aware of. Someday I will let you in on the downside of solar panels that everyone likes too. So watch the bowing stuff it hurts the back.

You are proving my point. Not all LED lamps are equal. Many of these coming from China are just cheap garbage. How did we live so long with old fashion incandescent and fluorescents? You learned the hazards and you stayed away from them There are now hazards with new technology also and LEDs are on that list. Do not get me started on Electric cars because that is another fallacy that is suppose to save energy. I will leave this note, stop and think how was each part made for electric cars. How is charging done. Lithium Ion batteries how safe are they? Go to trade in an electric car and see how much value is lost with each year. Alot more than a combustion engine. Are we going in the right direction? depends how you look at things I guess. OK I am off my soap box and happy light shopping. This is for you Kevin. You may not believe this but LED lights degrade faster in warmer temps than in cold and in cold the light output is brighter than warmer temps. You may not notice this but again things that do not get mentioned much when sales are involved. As far as flickering that would make this thread alot longer to give all the reasons LED can flicker as well as stay lit even with the light switch off. You will see lots of this when you are in a power shortage situation like summer times when they drop voltages to save power. This can damage LEDS as well as motors and so many other things. The life expectancy of those LED lights can be compromised and now you are replacing more often. I know this has gone in a different direction and all but it gets overlooked many times with progress.

Again I will make a comment here because of Ray's thoughts. he said better light longer life. That is not always true so please do not say things like this. Again Not all LEDs are made the same I have seen Leds blow out and flicker in 6 months. I have seen Fluorescents last for years. Every time you throw a switch on you jolt electronics or filaments and depending how heavy duty they are they will absorb this. Take a look at your saws. Every time you start and stop the saw you jolt that motor. The better saws have better motors plain and simple. If you are fine with old fluorescents then do not let anyone here talk you out of them. There are still plenty around for replacement. What works for one is not for all.

How do you know if the blue light hasn't effected your eye sight. Everyone can do as they please but my point was to make others aware that it is a thing and a serious thing. We try to improve on things but they can lead to other problems.

This saw is way too new to call a winner. As they get more sold and reviews start coming in the verdict will be more clear. I do not know who is making these but they do look like a clone. Good luck with the saw. Maybe a good idea to make some sort of cover for the switch and control box to keep dirt and dust out.

I would like to just put my 2 cents in here about LED's. They are not for everyone. LED lights can not be compared to Fillament or even fluorescent lamps because of color. It is the BLUE LIGHT effect which all LED lamps put out. Some lights filter it better than others but this effect can damage eyes. So when I read Bad Bob champing LED's I would warn you not all people can handle them and again if buying try to get a LED light with a low blue lighting filtering system and protect your eyes. Many people can not handle the brighter light or the different color of light that is emmitted from LED and no not all Led lights are color controllable especially these desk lamps you are all talking about so be careful what you buy. Yes LED have a plastic covering as opposed to glass because they are cooler in run temp and can allow this. They do make and I have one where I have the old flourescent lamps but it has a plastic cover on the bottom that protects the lamp. Had it for many years. Again buy cheap get cheap. Just wanted to make a point here if it is a mag light we are talking about or just some other external source lighting. Those bright lights are not good for your eyes even when they reflect off the metal table of a saw. So choose wisely the amount of lumens needed when it comes to having lights sit directly on a table like I have seen some people have here. It would be better to look at the room lighting in general and see if that can be upgraded to spread the lighting more evenly. I am not an eye doctor and nor do a want to be but be careful. Yes Led lights save money and power consumption but comes at a cost. You can relate this to computer screens. They have been refined over the years but it was a danger staring at a computer screen for so many hours. Do your homework and take suggestions here but investigate further. I just had to say something as this topic keeps unfolding.

All magnifier lights come like glasses in that they have a rating of magnification. I have and suggest that you look at architects and draftsman mag lights. That is what I got years ago. I had a highend art store that carried things like that. they carried all the paints and canvases and things like that. They had the tables that draftspeople use. It was a nice store. Maybe you have something like that in the area.

Good luck with your new adventures. Have fun.

Good luck with the new hobby. Color sells. People love colors. Basically this is how many pen blanks are made also taking back to my new hobby. Mixing of colored dyes within resins is a timing thing and to get the timing right along with the right heat is tricky. There is a huge market in making pen blanks.

Yea this is a matter of opinion. I do not see why the Hawk clamps are more cumbersome. So simple to take out and replace blade and slap back in with no tools needed. hegner you better not loose that wrench. I had both and when I switched to Hawk it was night and day and love both my Hawks. But again it is what you learned on that we gravitate back to. I bet if you started with a Hawk you would changed your mind. But I could be wrong.

Yes they are great. My brother led me onto those. One year Home Depot was selling the shop vacs for $40 around Christmas time. We each bought 2 and wish i bought a couple more because the price has more than doubled. Then we bought the hoses and a tremendous upgrade. I bought the Hepa filter for them also. Just used it alot this summer for I am doing some sheetrock work on some rooms in the house and after sanding I vac the walls down before I prime and no dust at all and the hose did not fight me either. Just long enough too. Now I have a garage vac set up in my garage for cleaning the cars and other projects I may do out in the garage or in front of it and it too has a hose similar to that but is 25 feet long so I can reach anywhere. It is so flexible and easy to wrap up and hang by the vac. That thing is also a great vac. Wall mounted and always available so I do not have to pull shop vac out every time I need a vac outside.

When I first got started scrolling I had to have the latest greatest inventions. Everyone was making blade holders from PVC pipe and using caps to secure blades. I made a whole rack of them and I colored them with paint because I use to paint the ends of the blades to signify the size of the blade. Still have rack hanging on wall and whatever blades are in them are antiques by now. Then the Berry Basket came out with a small rack that you could stand or hang on the wall with plastic tubes. So I bought a couple of those and that is where I store my FD blades in with the labels attached to the outside. Again I stopped using all those things many years ago because I found I basically was using one blade #5 penquin reverse FD blades which was my go to blade and still is today to cut just about anything. Now I have puzzle blades and a few larger blades and also jewelers blades but I just keep them in the package they came in and they sit next to the saws and when I need a blade I just take out of the package. Nothing fancy and did that for 30 years.

I have a Festool and have to say the hose is a tremendous upgrade to the plastic ones. I have a Ridgid shop vac and the plastic hose is a pain. Thankfully it is not real long because I can see that being a tripping hazard and pain to keep straight. Not sure why they can not make the hose more flexible. Even the upgrade hose for the Ridged vac was a tremendous upgrade. I went with this and thankful I did. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-7-8-in-x-10-ft-Locking-Professional-Vacuum-Hose-Kit-Accessory-Shop-Vac-Attachments-for-RIDGID-Wet-Dry-Vacuums-LA2570/305626336?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-2003851-1420157-EdgeBingFlow&clickid=TKey9q38HxyPRN2yAiQ7G2yKUkCRFVS13xn72A0

Could you modify the holder to accept the larger tubes? To me that would be the easiest answer.

Call RBI and they will be able to tell you.

https://www.h2ouse.org/sande-plywood/ I built my entire shop from Sande wood. Stable wood and back when I did my shop some 30 years ago or so. I got it at Home Depot very reasonable. One thing very different with BB(more layers and thinner layers) and Sande plywood is amount of layers. When they make plywood they alternate grain direction on layers to give stability and less warping and one reason you do not see as much grain raising as his problem.

That is end grain on plywood. It is swelling the grain because of the water based paint. Sealing it as suggested is probably a way out. Or use hard woods. Sande plywood is not the best plywood on the market. The top surface is fine but end grain will expand when wet.

Rest In Peace. The pen turning forum I am involved with started a thing where we try to keep tract of as many members as we can and if anyone comes across an obit of a member we pass it on to the owner and he has set up a program where he can have a "In Memoriam" notice attached to their sign-on names because over the years many many members have past through our site. It was founded in 2004 and most of the info has been saved even though we have gone through a few different carriers for various reasons. Lots of times examples or threads are referred to which are older members that have past and the newer members did not know but they can now see the marker next to their names. It also honors those that have past through the site for many of these members have left behind valuable info and their knowledge that still today rings valid and gets past down. It is a very close knit family on that site and everyone is always willing to share. membership keeps rising every year. This site is not like that but maybe there is possibility to incorporate some sort of Memoriam or list of past members.

I think we all have gone through the dulldrums. Just nature. I stop scrolling ever since my shows were shut down with pandemic and never returned. there are no shows in my area that draw big crowds because scrolling projects do not sell well any more. I took up pen turning and making my own pen blanks. It is a wide open field that lends itself to the imagination because there are no specific patterns to follow. Also pens are so easy to gift, use as raffles and just sell. They take up so much less space and can be put in highend Jewlers stores if you have connections. So much can be done with a pen and I also on occasion use my woodworking talents to make display stands as well as display boxes. I believe my tooling will have to be sold or given away by the remaining members of the family when I pass on. Will it be a burden yes but if they want the $$$$ work for it is my motto. My scrollsawn project inventory is quite extensive also. Someday I will move much of it through auctions and things but I can probably say I too am done with scrolling for a hobby. Been there done that. As we age it gets tougher to do the things we use to and yes it is a relaxing hobby but there are other hobbies as well. Good luck to you and your future plans.

Only because it fits in the thread. If stand alone and I still do not know if it says measure twice and cut once or measure twice and cuss once or something else.

That is beautiful. There is some talent there. Now that is worthy of a scrollsaw pattern but of course in English.

If I were you I would route your own in. Every shelf I made when I was selling I routed my own keyholes in. here is a few jigs I made for the shelves I made. They make keyhole holders for pegboards too that I hade to use a few times when I displayed in stores. My shelves that I used for displays all were hung with key holes. You have to route that bracket anyway or else it makes the top of shelf sit proud and has a lean to it. If you route them it is more professional looking and sits flush on the wall. They have different size key hole bits too. Now there are many ways to find these holes when hanging the shelves too. Some do alot of measuring and some use tape but you have to plan on your anchors too.

They came out real nice. I am thinking of using that pattern for a display box for any Halloween pens I make. I am gathering some objects to cast in a pen these days. probably won't be ready for this year but next, Thanks for showing.

And that was because you stained one side. It is like when you use veneers. To equalize the absorption of water and moisture to both sides of a project. The same goes for finishing. If you seal only one side you can open yourself to warping of the project. This why dipping is a great way to finish our scrollsawn projects. and why I never had a warping problem. Plus like I said fret sawing helps relieve stress points within the wood

Actually warping can come from a few different reasons. All boards have internal stress built into them from how the tree grew. So many times that stress is released as the boards are sliced. Also boards cut from various sides of a tree due to how the board grew facing sun and things like this adds to it. Moisture in the boards when they were cut can lead to warping. Stacking and drying can lead to stress of the boards causing warping. Weather kiln dried or air dried can lead to boards warping so my point is too many factors to pinpoint why your board is warping. No way of knowing if buying off the internet what you are getting but sometimes your better vendors take the extra steps to choose better material and thus can reflect in pricing. So do not judge a book by its cover. When you get boards that were shipped it is always good to store and stack them so that are stickered to allow air drying before use. Those woods can come through so many different climate changes and need to settle down to yours. So do not be in a hurry to use and plan ahead. As far as BB plywood, that too falls in the same category and especially today because harvesting is being rushed more so these days as opposed to yesteryears. But plywood in itself is a more stable material just because the way it is manufactured and I do not need to go into that because we should all know how plywoods are made. Now with this all said one advantage we as scrollers have over cabinet makers and others that build dimensioned objects is that when we scroll fret work into a piece of wood no matter what it is it will release stress factors within that wood. This is not to say though it still can not warp because it will. Sealing with finishes does help. Framing pieces with more substantial pieces can help also. I am not familiar with the product you are all calling " Project Panels" I may have to look into this stuff some. If you can get in various species of woods is a great thing and if as stable as you say then need to see what it is made of because if all plywood then it has the same aspects of warping as all wood products do. Now the talk of laser use. remember one thing too when you apply heat to wood you change the characteristics of it too and can subject it to warping in ways it was not designed to. Remember wood is a natural product and any altering its characteristics can do things This goes for laser work, staining and finishing, cutting and thinning, and even painting. Now I too have a shop full of tools and always dimensioned my own lumber. I use very little BB I like the look of wood grain BB is dull but if painting and coloring then it could be what you need. Hate to paint natural woods. But one thing I always had the ability to do was to select my own boards from reliable lumber yards. Both domestics and exotics. Breaking down woods for projects is all part of the fun and being able to call yourself a woodworker. ornaments are so easy to break down especially with todays tools such as battery operated saws and straight edge devices. You break them down to squares to fit your pattern. Not much waste at all. It is the same when doing scrolled projects. Lay patterns on top of wood and cut out. Maximize all woods very easily. We each have different needs and use what makes sense for what we do. If you are going through tons of sheets of BB for 1000's of ornaments then buy in bulk. and prepare for it. Store it in a manner that will stay flat. Again if we are to be woodworkers it takes more than a scrollsaw to get the job done. Happy woodworking.