JTTHECLOCKMAN

Yea because that how they suck you in and the money is in the battery not so much the tools. But again Dewalt is a very good line of tools to be in with. They keep expanding and upgrading the batteries that can be used for years to come. They are used in the trades alot. Is there better choices, probably yes. I can see Festool going down this road of continue expanding their line. Their batteris being any better I doubt it. They pride themselves on tool quality.

You spelt enuff wrong. Also you spelt Cher wrong too. Man you need a dictionary. And they hired you!

The 1.3AH batteries were the first lithium ion batteries they put in low drain tools such as flashlights. Drills usually got the 2AH batteries. Moving up to a 3 AH battery is a big jump and the more you go up the power increases and so does the run time. Many times if you had a 2AH and a 3AH battery or even higher, when putting a drill under strain you will hear the drill bog down easier with the lower rating. Thus more power. Put one of those flex batteries on a drill and that thing will go for hours. And sound like a drill. This info is the same across the board with any battery. The old Nicad batteries died alot quicker and the big thing with those was they had a memory problem. Those you were told to drain battery fully before charging or else it will only charge up to the area that it was charging at.

The run time between 2AH and 3 AH is tremendous so do not look at it that way. Also 3AH battery is as light as 2AH.

Now Kevin come on. You are intelligent. Any battery operated tool, the battery is not going to last forever. yes the battery cost more that the drill and thus why they sell drills so cheap. It is a platform that they want you to buy in on and have all tools work off those batteries. But that makes sense because then battery cost is worth the money. Plain and simple. Even the Bauer line if you only owned one tool the battery will cost more than the tool and if not the first time then the next time. But if you love HF Bauer line then stay with their tools. Do not start different platforms because it will get costly. Again you being intelligent I do not need to tell you this but the higher up the AH rating is the more expensive the battery because of the amount of cells needed and size of them. For the Dewalt drill the 2 AH original battery line is the cheapest and will serve you well. Probably that is what they came with I bet. Unless you use it for long periods of time at one time. Batterys have certain amount of recharge life in them. Depending on normal use that is about 300 to 500 times the life of a battery. But just like a car battery they wear the cells down each time recharged. Now if you let a battery drain down all the way then you shorten the life of the battery. Same with a car battery. Thus an alternator. With battery operated tools it is best to stick the battery on charger after use of tool. Yes they still rebuild these batteries and if you go on ebay you will see refurbished Dewalt batteries. Yes there are many off brand batteries that fit multiple platforms and yes they work but they more than likely use less quality cells. Thus the cheaper prices. It is not only the name Dewalt you are paying for but quality. Dewalt now sells 4 different grade batteries as you probably know and it is just a matter of time Bauer will be doing the same thing. Standard 20V Max professional. Lowest price 20V Max XR 50% more power and longer life span (comes in 2 varieties and these are new technology just on the market) 20V Max XR Powerstack these are flat lithium batteries stacked which makes the case slimmer and lighter. Down side is a little less voltage but still powerful 20V Max XR PowerPacks these are back to the round cells that we all know. But heavier duty. 20 volts and most powerful and longer life span Finally the latest to match all the large tools FlexVolt batteries. These are a combination 20 volt and 60 volt batteries so can be used in both tools. The big difference with these is the tool tells battery what voltage it needs. 20 volts, then the cells are wired in parallel. If it is a 60 volt tool it tells battery to wire in series thus producing 60 volts. Now at 20 volts the power is great and the run time is longest of all batteries. 60 volt still powerful but run time is shorter. These are and always will be the most expensive batteries. But you get what you pay for. Does not answer your question but gives a little insight to the world of Dewalt that is always upgrading technology. As I said I bet Bauer will follow in their footsteps.

Would it be possible for you show us the back side to show us how you are laying the glass and acrylic pieces down?

And your wife did not stop you?

Both work well. Both give a different look. I could add one more look and that is to use colored mirror acrylic. Makes for a nice look. too. If I had to choose between the 2 you have I would lean toward the stain glass but reverse the color combination. The green should be the dominate color against the light colored maple. My opinion only.

Looks like a standard caster wheel. Any home center could have them. Did you try HF? I bought a set from Home Depot years ago. probably not as cheap as that link.

I am in the #5 double skip tooth Silver reverse FD blade. I use that blade for just about all cuttings including 3/4" woods. Many times it takes some trial and error to settle on a blade that works well for you. That is why it is always good to buy a few different types and sizes just to have on hand to play with. Well worth the money and effort in the long run.

Ray you and I have been going around for some time now and I got the message. As I said look back at threads here I am probably the only one has mentioned they do not like HF tools with motors so who else did you direct at. Go ahead name names pal. You are sneaky so as I said I got the message.

I deleted

Hey Ray just for you. Just because some do not like HF tools does not make them a snob. You hold your own wallet sir. I have nothing against anyone buying HF tools. I just said I will not buy any motor related HF tool and never will so I take objection to your comment. You know I have been the biggest critic of HF tools and this was directed at me.

I think everyone who has this type saw should have this pattern and scroll one up and hang over the saw. Maybe someone can start making them and sell them to HF for the Bauer saw. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1636929360/c250-scroll-saw-scroll-saw-pattern-pdf?click_key=41b30f686667aa15434d8250f4023ab7e1a58d08%3A1636929360&click_sum=99663401&ref=shop_home_active_32&sts=1

Very nice pattern and right on time.

What is the difference? Do you have an example? Maybe you can email him and ask him to make a matching pair. Can never hurt to try.

I too gave it a shot at image search but nothing. I did find one similar on Etsy but believe they are selling item. The search I would try and have was Nautical scrollsawn crosses. That would bring you to the one on Etsy.

All the scrolling I have done over the years, I never found a need for them. You get very clean cuts when using the right blades for the woods used. Plus if I have a small hump it is so easy to shave that off with the blade.

Thanks. I actually put that in my favorite list. I did not see that one.

So is yours Barb and I know it will be a hit. As I said I did not want to step on your posting but wanted to give a few ideas if you decide to include these in your program of sellers. They are a conversation piece for sure. Good luck.

I guess you can say that is a bottom feeder saw then. This means you install the blade in bottom clamp first, thread the blade through a fret hole to be cut and then attach the top clamp. Does not sound like alot of fun though with that saw. yes it can work and do a good job. The action on the saw being straight up and down is desired alot in all scrollsaws. Good luck. It still out of my realm of knowledge though.

Are you talking about the old vintage cast iron scrollsaw made by Delta/Rockwell? That is a whole other beast. Jewlers blades are made for cutting metals, not wood. I have never scrolled on one of those. I am at a loss for an answer. They should cut the straightest of all the saws out there because the motion is straight up and down and no over cutting. No reason it would not work if it takes 5" blades. I do not know how blades are installed but that will tell you if it is a top feed or bottom feed saw.

Move your chair. Many times your eye is seeing it differently than what it use to. We all have a dominate eye and that is the one we key on. if you are pushing mor to the right try moving the chair more to the right. Or it maybe just opposite and your other eye has become more dominate. Play around with moving you line of sight some. It is a matter of letting the blade do the cutting. You just do not realize it when cutting that you are pushing to one side Bill beat me by about half a minute but he said basically the same thing.

I love it. I am a huge fan of those desk watches. Some people make them larger to use a wall decoration too. I have been making these ever since I seen the design in Wood magazine many years ago. they are fun and get lots of compliments. They are huge sellers for me at craft shows over the years. Hope you decide to make more. Not to step on your post but more for ideas for you, here is a couple I did over the years. You can make them themed by using different inserts. You can get inserts from Wildwood Designs or Cherry Tree whatever they call themselves these days. I do alot of the shaping on either the drum sander or a belt/disc sander and use the edge of the belt end.

I believe I shown the photos of my fix for my Dewalt too here. That was a flaw in the table design back then. The idea of these short parallel link saws was to take out the over cutting of the blade. The longer arms still have that problem to some extent. Thus the need for adjusting because it is an inherent problem. The old "C" arm saws had the same problem. I do not think the manufacturers put that feature on to correct the problem but to offer an option to do more aggressive cutting because technically scrollsawing is a slow process to begin with. Hegner attacks the problem with the floating blade clamps and RBI attacks with different blade holder positions and as you said the new saws have a different way of moving the holders in and out. I am sure this feature adds to the cost depending how they do it. Maybe the HF saw does not have a problem and thus no need for the feature. That would actually be a nice chart if someone or if these companies would supply that information as to how much back to front movement their saw has in a blade and if it is adjustable. I know on the pen turning site I belong to over the years we have established a library built up with valuable information about each pen kit available on the market which keeps increasing so that is never ending. Also other info about features of the kits. Along with a ton more info about pen turning. It is the most comprehensive site for pen making information on the web. Wish there was that data base in the scrollsawing world also. Every time a question comes up about a saw someone has to do a search. We can just refer the person to look in the library for quick access to info.