JTTHECLOCKMAN

You want a zero clearance chuck. You can change the entire chuck and get a good quality zero clearance chuck such as this. https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/1-2-ultra-precision-keyless-drill-chuck-mt2/ Or you can get a small zero clearance chuck that you stick in any drill or drill press. I believe Denny sells some. Maybe he doesn't I do not know but know he sells micro bits. You can buy on Amazon. but a really good quality one will cost much more. Just make sure it goes down to zero when closed.

Well to a point. You get into heavy grained woods then it gets tough to control blade movement. Early harvested pines do not do well. You can tell woods like this with the wide grain lines. Also you get into burl woods then they too can present problems. But your basic woods work well as mentioned.

When I was scrolling, red oak was my favorite choice and went through alot of Board feet of that stuff over the years. I also use all the other woods for detailing and have scrolled walnut in place of red oak because people wanted a darker wood. Big difference is if walnut is kiln dried or air dried. being air dried it is a much natural deeper brown and nicer wood than kiln dried for sure as with many other woods like that. people liked Mahagony also. Not much maple but did some baskets from it over the years. I still have a wider selections of woods that I am hoping to deplete over the next few years making a bunch of boxes and other items. I do not plan on buying any more lumber for things to make unless it really calls for it because I am to the point in life now I need to deplete what I have. I figure the family can give projects away easier than piles of wood. At least this is my thought process now but health will dictate that.

Kevin I seen it in the link you provided and have to say it looks like a press board or something as the inner layer and only one layer with 2 very thin layers on top and bottom. It does show a laser being used on it. Maybe that material is better for a laser other than layers of actual wood with glue like you say. It is not plywood between them for sure. I do not remember Carter using it. I have no idea where the puzzle stamp he sent me is to check. It is not cheap from the price I see in the link you provided. I know it is not in any Home Depot store around me. Maybe an order only thing. Just checked and yes an order only thing but I see they have a good variety of species. I may have to look into this for boxes that I will be making. I plan on veneering the tops and using BB as my substrate. I think I may get some to play with. Too bad it does not come larger pieces. looks like hobby woods. I read the questions and answers and they tell you just about all you want to know. The outside panels are 1-42" thick the inner core is poplar or birch depending where it is shipped from. both sides are not the same in some panels. One can be walnut and back could be maple or some thing cheaper. That leaves me out as an option for boxes. Looks like the vendor can cut panels to sizes with a charge. They have a web site. People like it for laser work because it is a biodegradable adhesive and not toxic when burned. I guess the center core is solid wood and thus this makes it subject to warp thus the small pieces. You can read all about it and see all the facts on it within that link. Pictures of middle layers all look the same so they use the same inner core for all woods. That can show up if used as scrolling in walnut. For that money I guess it is an option. But not for me. Plywoods and woods in general are just not the same as years ago. The harvesting is rushed and come from so many different countries you have no idea. As I said the Sande panels I bought have knots and terrible grain. I looked through almost a whole stack to pick a good sheet. years ago Home Depot carried beautiful Sande wood. Even the oak boards and maple boards sucked. $80 a sheet of 3/4" maple is not cheap. The Sande was $60. But it is more stable and flat compared to construction plywood and makes for better jig building. I do not care about grain patterns.

I am using sande plywood for some jigs I am making for tablesaw. Have to tell you this is nowhere near the same stuff I used to buy from Home Depot back in the early 90's when I built all my shop cabinets from it. Not even close. sande wood is from the Mahagony family but just like all species there are good quality and then bad quality. You have to look at the layers that are within the thickness of the piece. Just because the face is nice looking and solid if you are cutting and scrolling you want real wood layers of equal qualiity and that is why many times BB is expensive. Now again the quality varies from vendors to vendors. I looked at the maple boards and even the oak boards in Home Depot and again I would not pay those prices for that garbage. Now I was looking at 3/4" and 1/2" material. No not for me. The sande fits my bill and cheaper for what I am doing but would not use it to build cabinets. I do not know of the wood Kevin mentioned because not in the stores by me and if I can not see something I hesitate. I know what BB looks like but again you rely on vendors. I have had great luck from vendors on Amazon years ago but it has been a couple years since I bought any. I buy it for jigs and not to scroll.

Would scare the heck out of me. Poke a hole and all over the place. Not me. Put in a smaller can to compensate for air. Put a piece of plastic film on top . Look up finishing sites they have all the tricks. https://ardec.ca/en/blog/11/how-to-prevent-finishing-product-leftovers-from-drying-skinning-or-hardenin

That is the best place to get it. They run sales every now and then. That is where I buy from.

I too would recommend Timberwolf blades. They should be standard size blades. 59-1/2". Now there are different blades. PSwood has a chart that explains different blades.

I have Danish oil that is at least 10 years old and still as the day I opened the can. It is Watco Danish oil.

I do not scroll with it but made many of these type baskets. In fact I ordered some more boards of different colors about 3 years ago that I have never cut down yet. In the turning field we make pens, bottle stoppers and a lot of different items from this stuff. It does make interesting projects.

That is basically what that is a 2 puzzle pieces. There are many versions of 2 rings scrolled with a heart for weddings. The only thing I can think of is treat like an intarsia piece and basically copy what the design is and make in different colored woods like ebony and holly. Have to do some carving. I could not blow up the photo so do not even know what this does. Is it a neckless or sits on a stand?

Hard to say because not many use those blades. Can say this #5 blade is a stout enough blade to withstand cuttings like that though. I use FD #5 blades to cut 3/4" oak without a problem and get good life from them Alot has to do with other factors too. Speed at which you are cutting. How much force are you putting on the blade . if turning in tight corners are you allowing for blade to turn easily. Finally tension from the saw you are using. The more you cut the more you will be able to figure out what is right and what is not. It is all a part of the learning curve. have fun.

I hope to be able to welcome you in.

Good luck.

Yes temp of glass does count too. I picked alot of these tips up from a place where I use to get my mirrors cut for the projects I was making. I would make a bunch of mirrors that have a removable back piece of plywood so I could rabbit a groove to hold the mirror. i would bring these all to my glass place and watch him cut the shapes. he made it look so easy and that is where he explained a few things. When I got mirrors home I may had to grind a little off to make fit the project but that was easy with that wheel set up.

I too use the grinder but one key factor I found was get a professional cutter. One that oils the wheel as you cut. Makes a difference. Also one swipe do not go back over a cut.

The very first thing when a scrollsaw vibrates is check the legs of the stand. Make sure they are sitting flush on solid ground. Any bit of tilting can throw vibration into the factor. Same if a saw sits on a bench. The foundation under it must be sound and solid. Next make sure all bolts are tight. Moving the arms and table may have put it out of balance. Those saws are tuned before they leave the factory. May have to call Hegner to get some pro help. Good luck.

That is actually a great idea. Treasured forever. I know Carter use to make puzzle Christmas cards and send them to all the relatives. Great idea and getting started early is also a great idea. Thanks for showing.

All these bandsaws are about the same. tweaks here and there. The Rikon 10" looks nice.

I have a wood slicer and tried them and was not impressed. I buy the tri metal lennox blades and they last a long time. Cutting exotics is tough on a blade. I use to have a dealer near me, do not know if they are still in business, but they sharpened blades for me too so it is a plus. yes you have to max out the tension on most 14" saws with carbide.

One thing you have to also look at the time of the year. Winter is when most people go into their shops to play for a few months. That is where I will be going. I have some interesting projects I want to try this year. I need a challenge and will do just that this year if health holds up. Won't be scrollsawing but still wood related. Hopefully by spring I will have lots of photos to show.

Now I would suggest a Lennox carbide blade for resawing. Last a whole lot longer.

In about all machinery there are copies and probably come off the same line. I do see varied differences just looking at them and if they mean anything to you is a decision you have to make. Want to look at a replica, try the Record bandsaw. Dead copy different name and probably only in UK https://wood-shed.co.uk/product/record-sabre-450-18-bandsaw/. The Jet looks similar also. There are others that have that style look. I always liked the Laguana line of tools. You get that large now you have to look at HP of the motors, usually around 4HP and can be 220volt. 1-1/2 and 2HP motors usually 120volt. They are designed for resawing and are beefed up in the wheels and bearings. How often are you cutting a board 12" wide? That is the #1 question to ask yourself when looking for a bandsaw. What will you use it for? Depth and height of cut is important. Next is ease to change blades, ease of setting guides, ease of setting tension and finally dust collection. The one thing I like about the Rikon is the double miter slots. Makes for ability to make nice solid sleds like on a tablesaw bed. Anyway good luck in your choice.

That is all part of scrolling. Matching material with blades and also speeds. Over the years I found a happy medium blade that I used on just about all thickness woods and that was a #5 Penquine silver reverse FD blade. To me it was the sweet spot of blades. I never was in a hurry to get a project done. I let the blade and the saw do the cutting. Having patients is also a huge factor when doing this hobby or any hobby. It is suppose to be fun and enjoyable. Making a few dollars on the side is a side benefit. This is why very few do it for a living. You do for a living you are under constant time line pressures. Each and everyone of us approach scrolling differently and along the way we pick up habits and methods that help us. But this is the way in all aspects of life. I would say getting back to speeds the only times I lowered the speed was when I was scrolling puzzles and also metals because then I had to use very very thin blades and talk about letting the saw do the cutting. try scrolling brass or aluminum. Even plexiglass had to slow speed. With today's speed controllers right on the saws makes that all too easy. A saw like the P20 being driven by belt positions can be more challenging but again if you do it alot it becomes easy. trying to control speed with your foot and working with hands and eyes is too much. Probably why that saw is not made any more.

Which one are you looking at? It says Amazon but it is coming from somewhere. Check out where. Also look at the reviews. How serious are you? Jet 14" is basically just like my Delta from many years ago. Not many changes. Unless you are looking at the 1-3/4 HP one