JTTHECLOCKMAN

I too am a dipper in Danish oil. I love Watco Danish oil. I sand all my projects to 220 grit. Then dip and drain and wipe. Let dry for a few days. The small amount of poly in the Danish oil will give a nice warm glow and feel to the piece. Now on occasions like with shelves I will put a light coat of Watco liquid wax on them. Have to be careful not to get into fret work because you will not be able to wipe it out and it could clump. I just put small amount on a soft cotton cloth if I do this. But most times not needed.

In the turning world Cocobolo is probably the one that effects alot of turners. Will say this Padauk is has to be the dustiest wood ever made by Mother Nature. The dust gets everywhere. You have been warned. Many times different species of woods come from different parts of the world. I know bloodwood is one of them. Many times you have no idea where they came from so hard to tell you to change sources. Good luck.

There are some here in the library

It will come back to you. I was in the shop today and started turning a pen. I have not been in my shop close to a year now and it has been that long since i turned a pen. I have to train my brain all over again. getting a feel again for the tools. I am sure I will pick it back up. It is sure good to get back working in the shop again though. that is where I am at peace. You too will get the feel back and it will be like second nature.

Scrollsaw works just fine. I wish I had one left I could take photos of mine but I do not have alot of my first projects. A nice heart shape one is the ticket. If you follow through with the idea, show us a photo. Just thinking after I left and another idea I was kicking around was doing a sliding top for my pen boxes. Maybe that can work for those small ring boxes. Or I have seen small boxes where they use a pivot pin in a corner and the top pivots to a side and uses a magnet to catch when swung back That is even easier than the barrel hinges. Good luck.

Kevin they can make them on a CNC machine today and probably pop them out by the thousands. Cut the top and bottom from a board 3/4" thick is perfect.

Kevin that is what I was using on the small ring boxes. They are called barrel hinges and you can get them in any sizes. I bought about 3 years ago a bunch because I was taking that concept into my pen turning and wanting to make pen boxes that I give with my pens. I was going to try to match woods from the pen to the box if I was selling a wood pen. But I had a couple different designs I wanted to try. One was with those barrel hinges and one was with just pins in the sides. I just did not follow through but the idea is still in my plans. The big thing with those type hinges is you have to make relief cuts in the back between lid and body of box that is at an angle so the boxes opens properly. There are videos of this on net and the hinges are inexpensive and very easy to install. Most that size are glued in. The larger ones have small tiny screws that you tighten and they expand the sides to adhere them. They are easier to replace if broken but small ones are tough to replace but they are pretty tough so should last if not abused. They are called cancelled hinges which makes them high class looking. Pintrest is your friend. Look for ring boxes and you will see plenty of examples. Not hard to make and can be done on a scrollsaw very easily. That is how I did it. You can get as fancy as you want and technical as you want. You can inlay the top and bottom or just adhere the bottom flush with box. I preferred inlay. You can use acrylic in the lid to show off the ring or decorate the top something like I did with my trinket boxes. One other thing I used small magnets to keep closed. Those were hard to find but today they make magnets any size you want. https://www.etsy.com/listing/755504031/barrel-hinge-concealed-hinges-wooden?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_-home_and_living-domestic_med&utm_custom1=_k_93149c89aa131af32c1efb1b3468d4cc_k_&utm_content=bing_412373112_1296324507155169_81020345435111_pla-4584619897188477:aud-805670567:pla-4584619897188477_c__755504031&utm_custom2=412373112&msclkid=93149c89aa131af32c1efb1b3468d4cc

Yes they have inserts you can buy. I always made mine. Look on Amazon. They have many.

What I have done in the past was take some felt of color you want to use. Cut it to basic size to fit box but make it long. Now roll it up from both sides till they meet in the middle. Now you can trim some more to fit in the box with scissors. The fold is where the ring goes. Now you would want to adhere it to bottom of the box so it does not get pulled out. The toughest part I found was the shape of the box was a heart shape. So trimming was a little trickier. That was the basic way I did ring boxes because they were smaller. Now I have done other boxes using different methods too. I use foam under the felt and cut the foam and then wrap with felt making sure to form the felt into the crevices. Some boxes I just left it like a pillow in there. I do not have photos of ring boxes but maybe a photo or 2 of the other type boxes. Probably not because again I was not taking photos with a digital camera back then. Now some photos I converted but will see if I did any of those. I know I have one of the pool table pen box I did. Maybe the idea can be used for your situation and do not know why not. Sorry the photos are not that good in showing things and I could not find the one with the pool table and no pen in it but you get the idea. Just carve the foam and cover with felt. The same with the trinket boxes. I also did some religious cross boxes that I used same idea with felt but again those photos are on film only. I keep saying one day I will transfer alot of those but it would take some time. The roll of the felt was used on smaller ring boxes.

Good Eye.

Hegner never made a 15" saw that I know of.

yea it it looks easy to do that. Maybe he even painted it red. Maybe he had a Hegner stand and that is the reason he painted it to fool people.

It could be a Central but thought they were always green. But here is one in blue. The thing that is pointing to it is 15" Hegner did not make a 15" https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/353669347442055/

Great team to root for!!!! Your buddies got it right.

All the time. There are no set rules. You do what you think fits your needs. The biggest thing is if the pattern has fancy filigree then going thicker can take away some of that look of delicate.

I stopped using adobe when I got new computer and really need to find something to replace it.

Hate to say it but yes. Things are not made to last any more. Plus with the ability of dust getting into where they mount these switches today, many people cover them and just leave them on and use the foot switch. Of course when done scrolling it is always best to shut off.

I am not disputing your reasoning, I just never heard that. Scrollsaws are relatively a safe tool to operate. My point there is if you get sudden blade breakage that saw keeps running as you search for that foot pedal. With a momentary switch your instincts are to jump and just slide your foot off the switch. I have seen people use footswitches on lathes as well and again if something goes wrong your mind goes into panic mode and keeping the lathe running can be dangerous. I agree that a foot switch is a device that all should use. It saves wear and tear on that delicate on off switch that comes with these saws. A footswitch has larger contacts and more durable ones to take that constant on off sparking. All my saws had foot switches momentary ones. I even gave away the ones with my Dewalt and Hegner when I sold them. With this said I have to say I read the best excuse to have the constant run switch that I ever heard and made me laugh but sorry forgot who said it. It was in a recent discussion and again forgot which one. But he said he uses the push on and push off switch because if he should have a heart attack and pass away while sawing at the saw, maybe his wife will notice after 3 or 4 days the saw is still running and she would look in on him.

Really that is the reason? It takes so little pressure to push down. The weight of one's foot will hold it down. To me they are far safer than push on and push off.

Yes as pointed out already with the notch on top. When people talk reverse blades it could mean those blades that have 5 or 6 teeth on the bottom of the blade to help with splintering on bottom of projects when cutting. But those you can easily run your finger down them and tell what end is top. The ultr reverse blads you need a little help and that is why the notch.

Absolutely they are worth the investment. There are different strengths so need to be careful of what you pick. If you have a place where they sell draftsman equipment like a Staples store you can test them out. Have no idea about what HF carries and am sure it is cheaper than anything out there but check Amazon if you find something you like first. Having the tubes weather led or conventional I highly suggest it have a plastic cover to protect the tubes from breakage. One of the pattern designers sells them. Forgot which one. I am sure someone will comment. If you can find one with controllable light output for Led is the way to go if going with LED. Led light can be too bright and not good for your eyes at those close ranges. May need a warm white. I have the old flourescents cicle tubes and bought them from a draftsman store. Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

lets take it easy now. OP asked about the ultra reverse blades from FD.. It does not work to run the finger down on those blades because there is a reverse blade every third tooth all the way up the blade so you will not feel the difference. At least not with my pudgy fingers. Thus the need for the identification on the blade with the stamping. I believe there are other blades like this in both brands where the teeth are opposite each other through the whole blade. There was discussion here about the notch on the Pegas blades and I do not remember much about it because I do not use that brand. Maybe someone can clarify the results of that.

Right on front of package it says Crimp on top of the blade.

I have a downdraft table that I use if I absolutely have to sand indoors but seems I can always take the project outside, even in the dead of winter to sand a project. Always did that. But I did buy a downdraft table and hooked to my 4" DC hose and it does capture quite abit of the dust but no dust collector ever made will capture all. As I said every tool has to be totally enclosed from top to bottom to capture all dust. Just not possible. Lot of this stuff is advertising hype. Now again do not get me wrong a DC along with a air cleaner or 2 are good investments but along with that a good filter mask. Trust me. You are not capturing all dust made in a shop. Just look around the shelves in the shop and wipe your hands across them and then come back here and tell me you would have no problem eating off those same shelves. Just the nature of the beast. That thing is huge for me to drag around my small shop. My dust collector is located in a closet built for it and I plumbed in the piping to tools I use. Now My tablesaw and bandsaw share the same outlet so I have to keep switching but no big deal. I was actually looking at those new magnetic hose attachments. I might convert to that. Right now my attachments are sleeves that I slide on and off the tool. Not bad but just maybe i will try those new things. I just got back into the shop this weekend so will be doing some cool projects. have to make some neat jigs first. Just got my Performax 16/32 drum sander back together and dialed in yesterday so that job is out of the way. Talk about a dust maker. I tried hooking that thing to my large DC but not powerful enough so I have it choked down to 2-1/2" shop vac hose and use that with a hepa filter and works great. I had an older Sears 16 gal that crapped out on me so I pulled that apart a few weeks ago and think I got that repaired but in the mean time I bought a Ridgid 16 Gal vac with Hepa on it and that does well also. have to empty more but depends how much I use drum sander. I will be using it alot next couple weeks because I will be milling many woods for some boxes I will be making. Winter shop time. I love it.

I watched the video and yes it looks like a solid machine but have to say. Just about any dust collector out there is good. The thing about dust collectors or dust in a shop in general is not the collector that is a problem, it is the tools and how you collect the dust from those tools. To have that large a dust collector for a scrollsaw is rediculous in my opinion. You can do as well with a shop vac. But if you have larger tools such as tablesaws, bandsaws, lathes, jointers and things like this that is where large collectors come into play. But again how are you collecting dust from those tools. Not only do you have to rely on enclosures around the tools but also what dust is coming off the tops of the tools and at the blades or bits that cause the problems. That is why his meter thing is so misleading. He is taking dust from one place and transferring to the bag on the collector. It is not spewed into the air like a tool will do. Plus most larger tools create chips and shavings and dust is a byproduct. Again that is where a large dust collector will prove beneficial. I just wanted to make a point when choosing dust collection systems. Air purifying systems will help alot in conjunction with dust collectors because it is the fine dust that is hard to see that can effect the lungs most. Plus when using dust collectors, sizing of hoses and distance of piping are all calculations that need to be considered to make them work efficiently. There are many books out there on this stuff. Many people think of a dust collector as a huge vac but it really is not. You just can not take the hose and place it near a tool and have it suck up all dust from the tool. They do not work like that. Anyway as I said just wanted to add a few things and hope everyone works safe.