JTTHECLOCKMAN

Yes temp of glass does count too. I picked alot of these tips up from a place where I use to get my mirrors cut for the projects I was making. I would make a bunch of mirrors that have a removable back piece of plywood so I could rabbit a groove to hold the mirror. i would bring these all to my glass place and watch him cut the shapes. he made it look so easy and that is where he explained a few things. When I got mirrors home I may had to grind a little off to make fit the project but that was easy with that wheel set up.

I too use the grinder but one key factor I found was get a professional cutter. One that oils the wheel as you cut. Makes a difference. Also one swipe do not go back over a cut.

The very first thing when a scrollsaw vibrates is check the legs of the stand. Make sure they are sitting flush on solid ground. Any bit of tilting can throw vibration into the factor. Same if a saw sits on a bench. The foundation under it must be sound and solid. Next make sure all bolts are tight. Moving the arms and table may have put it out of balance. Those saws are tuned before they leave the factory. May have to call Hegner to get some pro help. Good luck.

That is actually a great idea. Treasured forever. I know Carter use to make puzzle Christmas cards and send them to all the relatives. Great idea and getting started early is also a great idea. Thanks for showing.

All these bandsaws are about the same. tweaks here and there. The Rikon 10" looks nice.

I have a wood slicer and tried them and was not impressed. I buy the tri metal lennox blades and they last a long time. Cutting exotics is tough on a blade. I use to have a dealer near me, do not know if they are still in business, but they sharpened blades for me too so it is a plus. yes you have to max out the tension on most 14" saws with carbide.

One thing you have to also look at the time of the year. Winter is when most people go into their shops to play for a few months. That is where I will be going. I have some interesting projects I want to try this year. I need a challenge and will do just that this year if health holds up. Won't be scrollsawing but still wood related. Hopefully by spring I will have lots of photos to show.

Now I would suggest a Lennox carbide blade for resawing. Last a whole lot longer.

In about all machinery there are copies and probably come off the same line. I do see varied differences just looking at them and if they mean anything to you is a decision you have to make. Want to look at a replica, try the Record bandsaw. Dead copy different name and probably only in UK https://wood-shed.co.uk/product/record-sabre-450-18-bandsaw/. The Jet looks similar also. There are others that have that style look. I always liked the Laguana line of tools. You get that large now you have to look at HP of the motors, usually around 4HP and can be 220volt. 1-1/2 and 2HP motors usually 120volt. They are designed for resawing and are beefed up in the wheels and bearings. How often are you cutting a board 12" wide? That is the #1 question to ask yourself when looking for a bandsaw. What will you use it for? Depth and height of cut is important. Next is ease to change blades, ease of setting guides, ease of setting tension and finally dust collection. The one thing I like about the Rikon is the double miter slots. Makes for ability to make nice solid sleds like on a tablesaw bed. Anyway good luck in your choice.

That is all part of scrolling. Matching material with blades and also speeds. Over the years I found a happy medium blade that I used on just about all thickness woods and that was a #5 Penquine silver reverse FD blade. To me it was the sweet spot of blades. I never was in a hurry to get a project done. I let the blade and the saw do the cutting. Having patients is also a huge factor when doing this hobby or any hobby. It is suppose to be fun and enjoyable. Making a few dollars on the side is a side benefit. This is why very few do it for a living. You do for a living you are under constant time line pressures. Each and everyone of us approach scrolling differently and along the way we pick up habits and methods that help us. But this is the way in all aspects of life. I would say getting back to speeds the only times I lowered the speed was when I was scrolling puzzles and also metals because then I had to use very very thin blades and talk about letting the saw do the cutting. try scrolling brass or aluminum. Even plexiglass had to slow speed. With today's speed controllers right on the saws makes that all too easy. A saw like the P20 being driven by belt positions can be more challenging but again if you do it alot it becomes easy. trying to control speed with your foot and working with hands and eyes is too much. Probably why that saw is not made any more.

Which one are you looking at? It says Amazon but it is coming from somewhere. Check out where. Also look at the reviews. How serious are you? Jet 14" is basically just like my Delta from many years ago. Not many changes. Unless you are looking at the 1-3/4 HP one

I agree dipping is the easiest and most complete way of finishing a piece. As I said I used it as my top coat as well. People loved the feel of the smoothness of the wood. Has alot to do with sanding. I sand all pieces to 220 grit.

Oh I can relate to this. It will be my brother who discards my tools when I am gone. If I can not operate them any more in a few years they will sit there. Now I have sold off a few tools to make room for newer models. The next tool to go will be my Delta 12" planner. I am waiting to pounce on a deal for a Dewalt 735X planner as soon as I see Amazon runs one of those ridiculous sales like I seen them do before. My entire shop was built with Delta machinery when I first started. Best tools on the market at the time. Now not so much any more.

Besides all that if it is single speed or VS, footpedal with VS are not robust enough to control that motor. Besides who would ever want a foot speed controller. You have enough to concentrate pushing wood through a blade and following lines and now you want to sit there with your foot semi pressing to control speed. Just does not make sense whenever I see this question come up I cringe. Pick a comfortable speed and stay with it I can count on one hand the amount of times I changed speed on my RBI saws. Adjust your feed rate that is a speed controller. My opinion only. I can not say for certain if it will work on that motor or not. I do not know the ratings of the motor or the foot switch. This goes for drill presses too that use pulleys for speed control.

Gee Wiz . What if he sprayed the laser area with Shellac? Wonder what it is that causes that reaction. Is it all oils? What about a walnut oil being that is a walnut piece? Lacquer is harsher than any oils because of the hardeners in it. Now Danish oil has poly in it. Maybe that is the ingredient that causes this.

Sam just to be clear here so you do not blame me for any problems. If Kevin says there could be problems with the laser work then I would listen to him he is the king of the laser on this site. I have no knowledge. As far as spraying shellac and lacquers that is tricky. But it will not darken the woods so that is a plus. As I said I have used the dipping method my entire career of scrolling and used various of woods. Now I will tap the edge of the piece after dipping to shake any puddles of oil out. My method may not work for you. It is always hard to explain a method with words. Now any oil you use will darken the woods or give the lighter woods a more amber look. If you are going for clear finish than stay away from oils. Good luck.

No not a good idea. Never put a variable speed foot pedal on a variable speed motor.

No you have to wipe it down after you dip it. At times depending what type wood it may bleed some but if you wipe it down it should be fine. Danish oil does have a after smell and does take a few days to dry. I used Watco Danish oil on just about every project I made. Many times if I want a little more shine I wiped on a coat of Watco paste wax to really give a nice sheen. Just my way of doing things. If you are worried about pooling in nooks and crannys you can always air blow them out before they dry. The bottom lettering came out very nice and kind of figured it was not scrolled. I am sure it will be well received.

Very nice. I am trying to figure out how you did the lower lettering. Could you explain a little. Precision is excellent. Are they 3D letters added onto the face and did you make them? For finishing, depends on what is your version of finish. Are you looking to top coat after you seal the wood and with what. Most of all my projects when I was scrolling and selling were dipped in Danish oil. It leaves a sealed project and also a nice warm feel to the piece. Rarely did I top coat but if a piece called for it I always used lacquer. Never ever have I used poly. The poly that is in Danish oil is so small amount it just is there to seal the wood.

I believe you will have to look at coping saw blades for they are at least 6" long. You probably will be limited. Sears use to carry long scrollsaw blades but Sears is no longer. Another option would be to cut a bandsaw blade to length you need. 1/16" blades. https://www.olsonsaw.net/shop/scroll-saw-blades/plain-end-scroll-saw-blades-5-in-6-in/6in-regular-tooth-blades-12-packs/

Yea I was being facetious. I do know how they clamp because as I said I owned a Hegner for quite awhile. But again they could have gone to a thru bolt like every other company to secure blades and used one size holder. To me another money grab for a saw that cost so much already. Stubborn to change too.

No, blades from different companies can vary as well as within the company. The thinner the blade the smaller the blade. The larger blades are thicker. Maybe call Hegner to see if they have a code that is somewhere written to identify which holder is which. I can not help there. I just found out there were 3 sizes. Have no idea why they would do that.

Check to see if the table is 90 degrees to the blade before you move the table. If it is then do as other suggested and move the table top.

Rest in Peace.

Isn't that like the locking knob on the Harbor freight saw. Out to unlock and in to lock. Just a guess. I have no knowledge of either saw.