JTTHECLOCKMAN

Just a note back to you, his very first post so I am not sure how many people would have known that. Good time to welcome him and say hello.

Welcome aboard Steve to our little world of scrollers. Your work and patterns have been received with great joy and with complete satisfaction. To do what you do for us scrollers is unmatched. I myself have done quite a few of your patterns with some adding my own touches. Your name comes up alot here as well as other scrolling sites especially when people are looking for specific themed patterns. I am sure you probably noticed that scrolling is not quite as popular as it once was. Over the years we lost some great pattern designers. Thankfully there are still some great designers such as yourself that still feed the hunger we scrollers have. Many innovations as well as many new saws have hit the market over the years. Along with that new tools and Guess AI is now added to that list. Seems AI will be involved in so many facets of our lives now and in the future. With that said keep doing what you are doing and using whatever tools necessary. You give a great service to the scrolling world and to us artisans that sometimes make a few $$$ from our work. Now being a little selfish on my part may I put in a request for some patterns in the future. At one time years ago I wrote to you asking to see more patterns dealing with the trades (being I grew up in them as an electrician for 43 years). I believe there is a great push and rightly so these days to bring back the Vocational training in the various trades and even the newer ones such as computer Techs. But the trades such as Electrician, Plumbers, Carpenters, Iron Workers, Steel workers, Bricklayers, Laborers all still are prevalent in todays society. Over the years I have made many of these type scrollsawn projects to attract potential buyers at my shows. I was fortunate to be able to use some of the talented pattern makers we have here for which I am thankful for. I have used a few of your patterns from this genre too. I guess what I am saying it is always great to see new patterns in this arena. But above all thank you for what you do and hope you continue for as long as you want.

Take some emery cloth and form it so you can fit in brush hole and spin the motor by hand. You should see nice copper color when done. Use a fine grit. Do not use sandpaper. Just a quick pass or two is all that is needed. They do make commutator stones for cleaning and setting brushes too. May have to cut to fit the hole. Also a quick pass or 2 on the brush to take the glaze off it. When installing brushes make sure you mark the brush the exact way you took it out and put back the same way. Also make sure the spring has enough tension to keep brush riding on commutator.

2 or 3 times I have read how aggressive Dewalt saws cut. This stem way back to when they were first made and I have show how that can be corrected to a more straighter up and down motion. There is also videos out there showing how to correct this. I know Rick mentions this on his site years ago. But it all comes down to raising the back of the table some to even out that motion and yes it works.

That is a huge difference in space required so that is something to think about. The difference in type of saws is huge also. As mentioned the Pegas is closest to what you worked with. Cost is a factor and then being able to get repaired and parts. Hegner is a tank and they are an industrial type saw.

So it is ornaments you want to display. Are they all different? How many are we talking about? I ask these questions not to be a smart ass but to get an idea what you are after. You evidently came up with something that sounds like it will work. There are a ton of ways to hang ornaments but many times the type of ornament dictates the hanging methods. Are they flat, are they 3D, are they all the same size, are there multiples of each, are these sold in boxes ( if so you may want to display with the box) and so on. Google is your friend. Pintrest is a good place to start looking for examples. Here is a link to one page. Good luck. One other thing that needs to be taken in consideration is are these available to customers to touch or are you only one able to access. Again makes a difference in type hanger. Your question is not that easily answered without questions. https://fr.pinterest.com/pin/10273905394303243/

Alot depends on the type projects you are talking about and if they have wall hooks and what type. What type wall are you talking about? Is this something you built to do shows with. is it peg board or plywood or wire. Give us an idea what you want. If you are talking ornaments then that is a whole different setup. So need more info to be of help. If you are talking portraits or things like that you still can use shelving and do rows. Show us what you do now and what you want to hang. Many ways to display projects. How much room and wall space are you talking about.

What makes you suspect there is a problem with the saw? Those testers are unreliable. If you touch both ends of the tester it lights up also correct? Did you try the tester on other tools? If you are feeling a tingle when using the saw, I highly suggest you stop using it and find out why. It is going to take some testing but with a better tester (meter style) in my opinion. You get lots of false positives with those type testers. I am sorry I can not help you any more.

I would suggest you start at the outlet you are plugged into. The tester linked above is a good starting point. You can have a floating ground. The ground wire at the machine can be well secured and all looks good but you have either a loose ground wire at the outlet or if spliced a bad splice in the box. Or the chord has a bad ground. The tester will test the outlet for you. Money well spent. If that is good you need to see if the ground wire from the male plug end has continuity to the ground wire in the machine. This is done with another type tester that can measure continuity. You would also need to move the chord around some to see if the wire is broken somewhere along the entire wire. Many times a chord gets pulled out of a outlet by the chord alone and this puts stress at the male plug end. Simple continuity tester from a good company. Sorry I could not follow your terminology so excuse if you mentioned you did this already. Disconnect the foot switch and run the saw without it and do that test. If still the same then follow what I mentioned above. If goes away then problem is within that foot switch. Lets check this stuff out first but you could also be looking at static electricity and those type tester can see this. But again should lead to a ground problem. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Sperry-Continuity-Tester-CT6101/300348421?mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-BNG-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-2024-21871116195-178489370548-&gclid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=fec940dca26c17d35a1428f5f64a6f0c I blew up your photo and a little confused with your set up. Wish I could see the back of that saw where the wires are going. What type of foot switch is that? That is not a sewing machine foot pedal is it? Is it a step to turn on dead man switch where you take foot off and saw stops or do you have to step on it to turn on and step on it again to turn off? The wire out of that foot pedal looks crushed. Could you explain this sentence a little more. I am not understanding what you mean. it gives electricity in 2 modes when the tray is running

Tried them. Do not like them. I found having a magnifying light works better because it is always at the same magnification when cutting. With head band that changes with head movement. I get disoriented.

Plywood such as BB will not warp as much but will warp. Just as all wood will. Wood is alive and will move. Now what things depend on is what type project you are talking about. Is it a scrolled photo that has a frame that supports the edges so then less warpage. Is it a project that has alot of fret work then less warpage. Is it a project that has a backer board than less warpage. So no definitive answer is possible except that wood moves and will warp. Being that thin more chances of it happening.

Many different type light strips. Mostly when you cut them there is a proper place to cut and is noted. Then you can buy connectors to connect the strips and extend or you could solder the connections but will still need a power source. But for about $15 you can build again. But if the strip was less than that it maybe more beneficial to just buy new. That is why you try to buy only what you need unless you plan on mass producing and buying parts can pay off. The LED light system has been a game changer for cars as well as homes.

Yes but we are both passionate with what we do and what we did in the past and there is nothing wrong with that. I respect what he does and his approach. I have told my story in different threads here many times so no need to go through that. I know there are others that it seems we are always on opposite sides of things but again we all can not be clones. What a boring world it would be.

You are right. Many times it comes down to right place right time. Also you are right about selling quickly because they need to unload either a passing relative stuff or they are moving and can not take. Also people who know saws more tend to spend a little more. The one thing RBI has going against them is the space they take up too. People like those saws they can put on a bench and be done with it. Hopefully he sells and gets his price.

I believe that is because it is a well known brand name. Also the price on the saw is more to what people can afford compared to over a thousand dollar saw. There are alot more Dewalts out there too.

Again Kevin I will have to just disagree with you because not what I see. If you see a saw like that for $200 I suggest you buy it. You can say that about new cars too. I bet this guys saw has very little time on it. If there is no evidence of things he made with it he probably never followed through with his desire. Who knows. I bought tools that I have still sitting in the new package and would never get the price I paid for them. Your examples are again if the people are in a hurry to sell. But if you have to sit on it for 6 months. I ask you who cares? How long did you put things on web site and never sold? I am sure there were many. I have a bunch of things that never sold. Does not mean I did not try. The things you sell are only worth what people are willing to pay. I am sure there are plenty of people say your prices are too high. Just making my point back at yours.

Well yes location always plays a roll but will disagree with you that just because they live in a different state makes the price different. He came on this site where there is knowledgeable people who know scrollsawing and saws values and that is what he wanted. People sell their saws for what they want. It is the same with all tools. $500 for that saw is an excellent and fair price for it providing it does run and all that. How it was stored and where means alot too. I have said this over and over here scrollsawing is a dead artform and hobby. There are still some who like to try it and maybe make something of it but those people are far less than what was when I started. This is why you see so many getting out of it and selling their saws. People trying scrolling for first time do not know what a good saw is and how much they should cost. I try to steer people away from the low end saws in hopes they stay with the hobby. Many times a low end saw can have so many problems and not easy to use that it pushes them away from the hobby. You will not find a saw like he has for that price as a new saw and you know that. How fast he wants to sell and at what price is his business. But he asked. from what I seen I could be of help because I own that saw. i do not know about motor problems or other problems with other saws so I stay away from those conversations. He can verify the dates and motor things with RBI. I hope he reports back if he follows through.

I do not remember because I bought mine later when I needed to replace the front blade tension lever assembly because it wore out. That time I bought a bunch of stuff. Bought a lever assemblies for both saws, bought a bunch of blade holders, and those air nozzles. Still have stuff laying around I did not use. I actually can not find the receipt for the 226 but have the one from 220 and know exactly what I did. Have the one from Hegner also. The Dewalt was a Home Depot give away. Got that for $80 when they were discontinuing them. just could not pass that up. I would have bought all they had but just one. I called around to other Home Depots too but that was a well kept secret and they were gone. When I bought the RBI saws they were both show specials as was the Hegner. I use to buy alot of tools at woodworking shows many years ago. You could get good bargains and also deal with the vendors. You use to get free Tee shirts too. Now you get nothing and prices are basically what you can get on-line. Stopped going when they moved the show and so many vendors stopped going because of prices they charged to set up a space. Plus like I said with internet there is not much deals. As far as this guy, not sure what his deal is but if it were me I would easily put a $500 price tag on that saw and start from there. That is an over $1000 saw and the condition that saw is in he would get it. You can not compare selling Hegners to RBI saws because they sold more RBI saw than Hegners I bet easily. RBI saw American made!!!! The big thing is the motors they experimented with and the changes they went through compared to Hegners. Both saws are top quality saws and made for the business man. Not so much as hobby saws. They are serious scrollers saws. With that said these type deals show up now and then and if you know what you are looking at you can get a deal. This one is a deal. Boy I looked at the photos again and have to say rare to see the hold down foot on these saws or any saw. I bet somewhere in one of the drawers I still have mine but man would have to look. I had to look hard for the Hegner one and the Dewalt one when I sold those saws.

Here is what I know because I have basically the same saw. I bought my 220 in 1998 in Jan. Because that was when the wood show would come to town. I bought my 226 the very next year because I found I needed a larger saw for what I was making. That would make it 1999. Both saws were bought in Jan. of that year. Those are facts. My saw serial number is 3923 so that makes yours slightly younger than mine but in that same year. Both my saws do not have the articulating hose section on the end of the blower hose. Mine on the 226 is the same size as yours which is smaller than the 220. The light you have is the exact same one along with the foot pedal. They sold it as a kit. Still have the same light and foot pedal on that saw. I did buy the articulating section but never put it on the saw. Did the same with the 220 but never put them on. I do not know when they switched to the articulating hose. but know you were able to buy separately. I know for fact that has the square blocks because it has the 2 small holes in the saws arm. They sold that blade rack along with sets of blades so he must have bought entire package. As far as price you can get $400 easily for it. I would not sell for $200 unless you are looking to get rid of it quickly. I would run ad for $400 and drop to $350. I would be happy to pay $350 for that saw in that condition if I were in need of a saw. yes you see lots of RBI saws but not ones like this with that quality of motor and parts. I can vouch for that motor because I used mine right up till about 2022 full time, and has a lot of hours on it with basically no maintenance done to it. Your saw looks in excellent shape. I sold a Dewalt saw for $350 . I bought my Hegner in 1993 and got $500 for it when I sold it a couple years ago when I sold Dewalt. So there are buyers depending if you want to test the market. I sold mine through Face Book Market place.

It looks like early 90's but did you call Bushton? That is the only way you will get the year and ask them was there any problems with that motor that is in there. I highly suggest you be honest all ways around when selling. It could be worth about $400 if all checks out. We here can not tell from serial number what year. Kevin has been more in tune with them than most here. It looks like it has the square blocks for blade holders so again leans me to early 90"s.

Everyone is different because each of us are different height. You want the table to be comfortable for you to use without having to bend over so much. With a table mounted router this is achieved more easily. If freehanding a router many times you need to follow the router more closer so the need to see the action comes into play. With a table you are always routing against a fence or guide pin so you are controlling the wood and not the router. Big difference. If you have arthritis it maybe benificial to have your arms a little higher and there is nothing wrong with this. Most woodworking stationary tools are about 3 feet high which brings to about waste height.

I own about 12 routers and use for various functions. But I have a dedicated router table that comes with legs and wheels and fence and all the things with it. Exact height not sure but you can always look those up they are pretty much standard. When I use a router on my lathe that rides on a platform that sits on the rails so that height is higher. if I am routing things on a table I have used a workmate, I have used my workbench, I have used a workmate with a platform so no height is locked in. I have a small router table that I clamp to my workmate and that raises it at least 2 feet. But I easily adapt to height as long as not over my head. Build something or use the workmate. Whatever makes you comfortable.

That is beautiful. never seen such detail in the chess pieces. I like it alot.

Flush. You want the blade as flat as can be against the clamp.

Glad you found a use for them and yes to have many tools in the tool box pays off. I tried once or twice and hate them. I probably should find the bunch I have and offer them up for sale because I will never touch them again in my lifetime.. But they take up so little room they can go when whoever buys all my tools when I am gone. I can easily cut a line with a flat blade and then if I need to widen I do that with same blade. Done this many times. It is like shaving with a planer blade. It is what you teach yourself to use and do with the tools in your tool box.