JTTHECLOCKMAN

My opinion is NO!!!! Just an opinion. Now I am sure they probably did some upgrades from years ago but my brother bought one of those 9" or 10" bench top saws. He knew I am a woodworker so he asked me to tune it because the blade was wondering and could not control. Well have to tell you with the plastic parts and those plastic tires that they used it was no wonder the blade would wander. I tried my best to tune it but no luck. He did take it back and got his money back. He does not do much woodworking and if he needs something done I usually do it. Again my opinion and it is worth what you paid for it. In my eyes I would never buy a table top bandsaw That is why I am staying out of that other thread.

What also maybe happening is a conflict with the DC of the saw. Both tools are working on speed controllers. The vac has built in speed controller which maybe effecting the startup but it all has to do with current draw. Maybe the guy from Festool did not realize the saw is DC. Most times those vacs are used with portable tools and stationary tools that are AC. Maybe play with the vac speed controller and you can sync it up to tool.

The Festool vac is sensitive to current changes and when you adjust the speed you are changing current ratings. I suggest if you want to do this then do not turn speeds while the vac is running. Try turning the speed to 7 or 8 before you start vac and see if it runs. It should. Or you can try going very slow with the speed changes and let the vac catch up electronically. This is a safety built into the vac. Something like a GFCI.

You are over thinking it. just try to use the smallest bit you can to match the size of the blade. Drill at the very edge of the line. Either side is fine. If you are that anal about it you can do a couple things and that is increase the thickness of the line after first cut to eliminate the roundness and slightly enlarge the line past your initial entry hole. No one in the world except you is going to know. Remember you are making a hand made item. You are not a robot or a laser cutting the pattern. I bet when you are all done not one of your lines will be perfectly straight. But they will look fine because they will be close enough. It is something newbies must get over and the more you scroll the more little tricks you pick up. Good luck.

I go to FedX shipping and they have copiers of all sizes and do it myself there. Have been doing that for years. I control the outcome. I am sure you will bring up expense but it is write off for the business. You are paying for inks and paper at home too. Wear and tear on copier. I use to make a ton of copies when I was full bore operation. they have the latest in business copiers too. Excellent quality.

That is correct I asked Steve years ago and his answer was many of his projects are computer generated and not stained at all.

Very nice idea. Make for a great project for the router and a jig.

Nice sentiments and ideas. I have very little family left so not sure where my stuff will wind up. But over the years I keep giving away both scrollsaw stuff and now tons of pens. Just gave my sister a gift for her new home she just moved into. I wonder if I will be remembered on any forums I belong to. Maybe a time or 2 my name will come up, good or bad.

yea it has been so long ago that I needed to buy scrollsaw blades and have enough for 2 life times. I tried a few pegas blades but like other things I just grew into the FD blades and they are my blade. I do not use their jewelers blades. I buy true jewelers blades when I am scrolling brass and other metals. #5 Penguine silver reverse is my go to blade for just about all cuttings. Just the one I locked in on. Yes Bill Young was on all the scrollsawing sites along with a couple other Canadian scrollers. As far as the other seller maybe I just confused them with Denny but I thought for sure I saw someone on FB. Memory is not what it use to be. As far as blades I know for fact FD blades are not all produced the same way and some are so called stamped but stamping is also a term used to thin the blade and cut to size, and not cut the teeth.

I am taking mine with me. I told everyone to just dig a bigger hole.

Kevin look at the photos of the blades from FD and tell me they are not straight. You keep saying they are canted. Some of them are but the ones with a alternate tooth are straight. They are called something different but I tell you for sure they are not stamped like you are thinking. . When you alternate the teeth they have to cut straight. what way would they cant? Maybe they use a different machine than pegas yes I mixed up who sells FD blades. What is his name here. that took over for Mike. Remember I have not been here for quite some time. All my correspondence with Mike was on an older computer and I never carried it over to the last 2 computers. I use to talk to Mike almost every week. He liked to just talk and we both hated a guy if you remember William Young. Talk about guy that thought he knew everything and he was a tester for Pegas blades when they first came out. Bill got himself banned from just about every site he went on. he started his own site and you had to register through him if he wanted you. Do not know if he is still alive or not. I can tell you stories of how he tried to ruin Mike and his business because of the Pegas blade. Maybe that is the reason I hate that blade. Take it for what it is worth. I have tried back in the day probably every blade that hit the market. Steebar Corp use to sell a blade called tiger blades or something like that. They were a German blade and they were a great blade too. I am sure I still have some of those. Those precision ground blades are super sharp and the teeth are thinner. Again made differently than a Penguin silver reverse blade. I know Wooden Teddy Bear took over Mike's site but someone is selling FD blades. Help me out here. Kevin this link may help you in your explanation of straighter cutting. The difference between milling and precision ground blades. Why one blade so call cuts straighter while one wanders. When comparing blades you then need to compare apples to apples. PG or milled blades. https://northernnester.com/scroll-saw-blade-types/

I do not wax my scrollsaws because I have a clear plexiglass auxiliary top on it. If it does get sticky for lack of a better word. I will hit it with Johnson's paste wax which is what I use on my tablesaw and jointer beds. I even use that on the ways on my lathe to keep the tailstock and banjo sliding freely. You want to be careful what wax you use because silicone will interfere with finishing products thus no car waxes. Kevin takes it to extremes. Never waxed any tools bases. I ask why. He says so sawdust falls to the floor. You must have magic sawdust Kevin. Wax or no wax it lands on the table and the legs and a simple brush with shop vac and cleaned. You have to vac the floor anyway. get back to doing scrolling.

You do know that FD blades are Niqua blades right. I use to have all of Mike Moorlochs notes because I use to test cut for him All FD blades are not stamped. I am not sure because it has been a long time since I bought blades but maybe Denny can step in here and give a list of what he is selling these days. I bet he is not selling all of Mike's blades. I could be wrong.

Do not know how this got double posted.

That is fine but my point is you can not say definetly FD blades drift because they absolutely do not no such thing. Can not say Pegas cut straighter because absolutely not no such thing. You personally find your ability to control them better than the other. if a person is starting out he or she needs to make that decision. I will cut a straight line with FD and you cut one with a pegas. How is that possible if one drifts. Should never be able to cut straight. This is my point. Remember it is newbie asking questions not vets.

No problem. One thing I caution others when reading the statement about blades causing a drift and cutting straighter. These things are worded wrong. FD blades being stamped have the teeth facing more toward a side on some of their blades. This does not cause any drift. It is just that the wood when cutting is slanted more to adjust for the canting of the teeth. Same thing goes for cutting straighter. No blade on the market cuts straight. Pegas blades being a different modified geometry made blade means the wood is pushed into blade in a straighter line. Also the very first turn you make all directions are out the window. Unless you are cutting straight lines and comparing each blade you will never notice what that blade is doing. Your focus is not on the blade movement but on the cut line and you forget all about the blade. As far as staying sharper that again is subjective. I suggest you get some of each blade and you decide which blade suits you best. We as seasoned scrollers such as Ray and I can only suggest things. But these 2 blades on the market are the gold standard for great scrolling blades. Olson has been around the longest and always had huge advertising behind them and thus the name recognition. Good luck and happy scrolling.

FD precision ground blades are not stamped. These comments are opinions

I agree with all that is being said here. To add something to conversation about blades, yes we all find our go to blade and you will too. But your 2 top blade manufacturers are Pegas blades and FD (Flying Dutchman) blades. They do cut differently though so when you do get a feel for cutting you will notice. With that said for size the #5 blade is probably the best because it is the most universal for what we do. Unless you are cutting alot of hard woods 3/4" thick then go to a #7 I like the FD Penquin Silver double reverse tooth blades for just about all my cutting. The reverse teeth is something you will find handy because they cut on the upstroke of the saw's action and they take those fuzzies away for the most part that you will get when cutting. You will see and that is why you need to sand the work after cutting because those fuzzies make the project look unprofessional. Good luck.

I would satin lacquer it for sure. Light coat at first and let dry and then go from there. You say it is sealed so you should not get any bleeding then.

I use those clamps he is showing for gluing boards together edge to edge to make wider boards. They work great for that. For straightening an edge I will clamp a straight edge or even use one of those clamps but would run a skil saw or circular saw as some call them, over it and do it outside. Makes quick work of getting a straight edge on one side.

OK I see it now. You have it clamped to the top of the board.

I have those style clamps and use them alot for both straight edge sawing with a skil saw or router. I have them also in 8 foot versions and come in handy on full sheets of plywood. Just not sure why not use your fence for edging.

I think Kevin said the magic words there. HARD TO FOLLOW ALONG FB is a one time make a statement and flee. There is no follow up and to watch what others are saying you have so much clicking on to do it is nothing like a true forum like this that has dedicated subforums and things are not all rolled into one big topic. I try to stay out of conversations unless I have something I can add or when no one is answer the OP question.

Rolf the benefit I see with a magazine is the variety aspect of seeing different projects that show different styles of cutting and that is all. The seeing of projects done is basically eye candy. But seeing intarsia, fret cutting, compound cutting, stack cutting and things like that are what books and magazines can show and should show and teach along with breaking down of explanations of blades and tips for cutting. Add things like woods to cut, vacs setup to make cutting safer, other materials to cut and things that teach. Seeing projects and plans is nice but to me there are vendors for that. Now you want to say it is their plans that get shown and they are basically advertising then that is a plus point on the signs of the magazine. But today what a magazine is eye candy. There are so many other ways to view plans, to watch utube videos and see with your eyes how to, when a magazine can not do that. It would take so many still photos. People do not read like they used to and do not write like they use. Today there is so many more ways to consume hard copies. Videos are a faster way to learn things. You notice who is still saying they like the magazines here, it is the older generation. I wonder what the youngest scroller we have here. I bet it is not under 40 years of age. Many of us older scrollers are set in our ways we grew up with consuming plans and seeing projects. I grew up with scrolling where we had scrollsaw picnics and gatherings and things were shared that way. That is not happening any more. Today 3d printing, laser cutting, CNC work is more the thing. Scrolling is an old timers hobby because it takes patients. Young generation does not have the time or patients and thus the written word is going by the waste side. Of all the years and it was many that I had gotten all kinds of woodworking magazines I probably got maybe 5 or 6 plans out of them for things I wanted to do. Now I got ideas from photos of things but buying magazines for plans to me you are wasting your money. I bought my plans from the vendors and supported them that way. To sum it up I see magazines follow in the way of the newspaper footprints and slowly disappear.

That happens on all sites. I see this on the IAP pen turning forum I am part of. Is it annoying? After awhile you just let it go. But what I do tell all people is you are missing out. Maybe you will get an answer to your question but not the only answer. As with scrolling there is no right and wrong just methods we develop to suit our needs. Now making suggestions is all we can do. If you follow a site you become familiar with the more knowledgeable people and do trust them more so. Answering the same questions all the time gets watered down the more they get asked. Lots of info gets left out. Then there are those that ask questions that can take a book to answer properly and that is not happening. Forums have become just stops where a quick answer is supplied like google. Even this site there is no real conversations here any more. Sharing ideas goes beyond nuts and bolts and what blade to use. as I seen this on IAP where I have been a member for 19 years. I seen how the forum has changed over the years and what can be said and what can not today because we all have become so sensitive. I left this site for awhile and had some good reasons which are my own. I do not visit as often any more because as I mentioned I lost interest in scrolling but do like following at times. I put in my 2 cents when I can. I feel I am versed in many tools in a woodworking shop because I have used them over the years. Knowing all these new saws on the market is something I have no need to keep up with because I do not change saws. Found my saw and will never try any more. This is all part of the society we have become. Everyone is in such a big hurry to get to that hole in the ground is how I look at it.