JTTHECLOCKMAN

That is a tough combination. My suggestion is to do a very very light spray from a distance greater than what you are use to and do this a couple times till you get some build up. Use dewaxed shellac. Next time before you glue anything up wipe the darker colored oily woods down with acetone. many people use card scrapers instead of sand paper when doing work like that. Also vac do not wipe dust and if sanding then use vac while sanding. You could try masking but if you have end grain to end grain that will be tough to stop cross contamination.

I always loved people who cut vinyl records. They are always cool. That is something on my to do list. Like to see some examples of that here as well. I always loved the people who cut coins with the scrollsaw. I even think I had seen a few people show their work here if I remember correctly. here is an example of a friend of mine who did this one for me and it all happened on a bet we had years ago. We talked about ways of thinning a coin because that is what is needed when he scrolls the coins. I told him I can do that one of 2 ways. turn it down on a lathe or scrollsaw it in half and he did not think I could cut a quarter in half using a scrollsaw. well about 5 jeweler blades later I showed him.. He then had to cut me a New Jersey coin and place it on a pen blank that I made using copper braiding. I sent him the blanks and he did his things and when he sent it back I cast in resin and turned down to a pen. here is the photo of the pen and also of the quarters I cut in half using my Dewalt 788 years ago. Want to try your skill, try doing that with your scrollsaw. Have to say those quarters are made from junk metals and are hard.

Interesting addition to the Grizzly https://reciprocity.com/the-importance-of-iso-certification-in-manufacturing/ Grizzly has always had a bunch of different saws on the market for a while. I believe their 18" model is totally different design than that one and came out in 2022. They have one that resembles a C arm saw too. They are all copied from some saw and still probably come out of the same factory. You are buying a name today when buying a scrollsaw. Not seen the Rikon but does not surprise me.

I have cut many types of wood and some harder than others. Also cut some brass, and aluminum, acrylic, and acrylic mirror. That is about all I needed.

My take on this is twofold First it can be a toxic wood and many people are allergic to it. Second the dust is a fine dust and can be static clinging to your work piece.

Welcome back. I too have returned. I am not scrolling as much any more but it is still good to see some nice work being done. I have taken up the lathe as a hobby these days and pen turning has been my interest. i do like to combine both hobbies at times though. I see you are still doing the puzzle thing. Always some amazing work there. Good to see familiar names.

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH now I see the glass in the original pattern. DUH!

I hate to say what I see. It is a family site.

Thanks Kevin. I had the same feelings with the Dewalt because it worked on the same system. yes the Hawks as so easy to thread blades and retighten that one hand puts blade in and other tightens thumbscrew. It is a no brainer when you blade is set. That is why I kept those 2 saws. yes they take up some room but my area is dedicated to the saws and have no problem. They are sitting on a basement concrete floor so there is no bounce or creeping. Rock solid. When I had the Dewalt that system had more rocking of the blade than the RBI so I did the fix that was going around at that time to get most of it out. there was very little back to front movement. My fix was a piece of wood to take it out of the back end.

Have to ask what is it suppose to be or is one of those abstract think tank pieces. ?? Just checking to see if my mind is still working.

I figured those bushings/bearings were enclosed or something because no oil ran in just down the sides. Did not feel any different but that is what the manual said and no oil on that lever. That is too close to dust for oil in my opinion. The oil on the wedge in the back to me was a waste of time but manual said do it so I must obey manual. I have a question for you Kevin. Being you saw on different system saws which do you prefer? On the Excalibur is the blade set in clamps that are always dialed into the same spot or are they like the Dewalt where you can slide the blade up high or low as much as you want. The RBI has a set max with the bar behind the blade in the block type holders. Not sure if they still use those in the new version. But I like that so much because sometimes you get blades that are just a little longer and what I do is snip some off to keep the same tension on all blades. I just did not like that short action of the arms when sawing as with the Dewalt. So use to the Hegner and then after that the RBI. I got that Dewalt dirt cheap so had to buy it brand new when Home Depot was clearing them out. With stand $80 Type#1 It litterly crawled in the truck before I could pay for it. I would have bought every one they had but no more available within NJ. I had guy check for me. Also with the RBI blade holders, the blade is always straight up and down when inserted. Dewalt it could lean forward or back. Hegner you had to have that key to tighten blade in clamp.

OK update. I oiled the pivot points today on RBIs and again checked that wedge still pristine. Used a little dry lube on the tension lever. Now I will not be oiling this every 20 hours as they recommend in the instruction book. That is ridiculous. ( MY THOUGHTS) One thing and again this is my thoughts but it is true with lathes as well as other woodworking tools, when you apply oil to moving parts such as those pivot points you now have created a spot where dust and debris can and will collect more readily So when I oiled I wiped around that section to keep oil off the arms. This could start a friction problem and cause more harm than good. I will be aware of this. I know Kevin put a timer on his saws and that can help tell how much use it has. I wish I knew how much running time is on these but I can say without blinking it is a long time and that is no bull. These saws have been used hard. To this day I highly recommend them to anyone buying a saw. yes you can find good deals as used saws but you just never know how well they were used. I believe Hegner is overpriced for what they sell. Do not get me wrong, they too are a great saw. I have no idea about the other type saws such as Pegasus. I do not like that double link system. I had the Dewalt and that saw basically sat in the corner. I rarely used it. Blades can be installed at any height and tension is not always the same . I am and always will be a bottom feeder so no interest in top feeding features. Again that is me. I learned that way and am fine with it. The blade changing system on the RBI and again I do not know much about the newer models but the ones I have are great. You can not make a mistake of how far or how high to insert blades. they go in the same each and every time. That is why I rarely break blades. My saw is tensioned to same blade all the time. No need to keep changing size of blades. just the way I did things all these years. I do not start and stop many times when cutting. I start saw in each fret hole and stop when done. If I have to shave a piece I keep saw moving. I have learned to turn while saw is running. Maybe that is a reason that the saw has not been abused. Starting and stopping a motor is torque applied to many things. After each session of cutting I always vac the entire saw down to collect dust. I do not use a dust collector on my saws. I do wear a mask but I wear a mask most times I am in the shop anyway. I grew up in the construction field so those masks are like a part of your uniform. And I use safety glasses. i have an air cleaner system that is basically right next to those saws because my shop is small. I keep that clean and vaced too. To sum up why has my saw been so free of problems I do not know. Maybe luck, maybe I got the 2 best saw ever made by RBI. I do not know. But they have served me well and as I said they owe me nothing. Again this is my way of doing things. Follow your heart and follow instructions and keep those saws motoring. Have fun and enjoy the ride. Good luck and happy scrolling. I know this topic went off course somewhere down the road but to bring it full circle I do not leave tension on my blades when done sawing.

By the way I sold my Hegner 2 years ago for $450. I was asking $500 but guy got me for $50. That saw was still a great saw and he would get many years out of it. Even the bellows were still flexible and in good shape. I told him that was a weak point and how to replace. Sold the Dewalt 788 for $250 same year. So left with the 2 RBIs. I looked up my saws and found dates. Bought my Hegner in 1993, Bought the Hawk 220vs in Jan. 1998 and 226 in 1999. before all these saws I scrolled on a Dremel 16" 2 speed saw. That was fun. Now I may jinx the saws but think I will put a few drops of oil on the pivot points mentioned. Wish me luck.

Kevin all I can say and have said this many times here I do not see that wedge move one iota when scrolling. I do not know why , only that I never change the back tension since I got it. I use to at one time long ago change when I used jewlers blades but even stopped that I rarely change speeds on both those saws. I know the wedge is free because it does rattle when I take tension off. but believe me it is as sharp as the day I bought it. I did have to put a felt piece on the arm because that lever would work its way over to the arm and clatter. That was annoying but a quick fix and has been that way for a long time. There is no friction at the pivot points in both upper and lower arms on both saws. As I said I did have to change the front tension lever and recently found the thread that got me in alot of trouble here and led to one reason I left here. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/36965-rbi/#comment-408618. I have been scrolling for over 30 years now and my path has been documented here a few times of what I did along that path. I have scrolled on these 2 RBI saws for the best part of all that time. I mentioned I had a hegner before I got the RBI which was the first year they came out with those block shaped blade holders. You would know years more than I. I do not remember. the woodworking show I bought the saw at the person do the demo kept talking about the upgrade. Whatever motor they finally went with in those has served me well. These saws run quiet and true as the day I bought them. I am still using them even in my pen turning adventures so. But I have told everyone how many stores I sold in and how many shows I did and shown the work I do. I only wish and someday maybe I will find a way to transform all the still photos of all the work I use to make when I first started and the large projects I worked on to digital so that they can be used in forums. These saws saw many times 6 to 7 or 8 hours of sawing a day when I was full blown especially weekends. Keeping stock was a job. Not complaining just noting. After I got the RBI saws and the 220 is about 1 to 2 years older because I had to get a 226 because of the mirrors and other bigger projects I was cutting. My Hegner was then dedicated to doing strictly angle cutting for collapsible baskets and trivets which I made over 100 of. I really did not like their blade system and not sure what they are now. but that wedge design was a pain in the butt. As you know not have a blade tension system up front I had to tighten blade by turning and loosening the back screw. Thus the move to the RBI I scrolled on my friends RBI but he still had the barrel clamps and they were fine but the new system was 10 times better. I am guessing RBI has gotten their act together after the change over. In that link I was having a huge hard time getting parts and it was costing me precious time. getting frustrated and I guess I pushed calling them out too hard for the money you spend on their saws that Travis took exception and slapped me. So I do not have any intention of getting into verbal wars with whoever wants to disagree with any advice I try to give or any things I post here any more. What has worked for me may not for everyone and everyone has to do what is best for them and their tools. Weather that is oiling or using dry lube on parts that pivot and following instructions. It is always wise to follow instructions and get to know your tools and what is proper. I am not telling anyone to do anything different. Lucky maybe but my saws owe me nothing for as long as I used them and certainly can say I used them in an industrial type setting. I maintain all my tools. if i have to down the road replace a part I have knowledge to do it and will. But I will from now on be careful about what I suggest or any info I put out there. I tried to preface things all the time saying this is what I do or did. Happy Scrolling to all.

Wow this thread really took off into a whole different direction from tensioning blades. Now we are talking about cars. I hope that you all pay attention to other tools as you do the scrollsaw. Blades on tablesaws and bandsaws need cleaning every so often. Those tools also need love and care too as well as any tool that has motors and moving parts. I am done. Oil do not oil I could care less. No more advice from me. I had to go back to reread my comments of what turned the spear on me and I do not see it other than I mentioned Ray oiling every 10 hours but I did mentioned that is his thing so be fine. I did not say do not do maintenance on anywhere in that post. I mentioned I never oiled my RBI saw as long as I had them so that is me. If your manuel says oil and whatever thing it tells you to do then follow those recomendations. . I stand behind my thought that if a saw needs oiling every 10 hours than it is not worth the money they ask for them. Why not put an oiler on it then too? This question was about tension left on the blade when done scrolling. Again book recommends take it off and yet other say they left on. Does it have an ill effect on the saw who really knows. As far as cars goes I am too old to work on cars any more. I have a great mechanic that can take any engine apart and rebuild it. I trust him.

They are called sealed bearings my friend. Every 10 hours could be like every other day you are oiling. I change my oil every 7,000 miles which comes out to twice a year. I am retired. My saw is RBI's If Hegner says oil then oil. Just seems excessive. I understand the pivot points Kevin eludes to and I watch them what can I tell you my pivot wedge does not move. the tension handle will wear with or without oil. I did spray dry lube on it when I replaced it 5 years ago. Oil changes in cars is subjective. i do not work on cars any more but between 6 and 7,000 it gets oil changed. Why did they do away with all the grease fittings on cars today. They build them differently today. Today they tell you it is a bad idea to let cars sit and idle especially warming them up like we use to. It wears things down faster than getting and driving. Oil is dispersed faster that way. Hey do what you want but you can not tell me oiling every 10 hours is normal. Sorry.

I see you are a skeptic at heart. that is fine. What is nice about things is we do what we feel is fit for us. Whoever this guy is and I have not read or do I ever follow anyone on FB and never will, but he was suggesting to keep those saws running true it would be wise to apply some maintenance to them every so often Oiling it as much as Ray said is ridiculous but it is his thing so nothing wrong with that. I am sure Kevin can break down all the fault parts on all saws because from what I have read here for a few years he takes them apart and puts back together. I have had my 2 RBI saw and have never oiled or done any maintenance on them other than clean the dust off. yes I had to replace the front tension lever but that is something no matter how much oil you dump on it it will wear out. There are natural wear points on all tools ever made. A little tender love does not hurt so do it or don't do it. As far as releasing tension I am in the release camp because I have no idea when I will be using again and with the front tension lever it is too easy. My bandsaw is something else. It is always been told to release tension for a couple reasons and they are forming a indent on the rubber tracks if left tensioned and also strain on the bearings resting in one place. I have wanted to install a quick lever set up on that but just never did. If I ever buy a new bandsaw I will either have that installed or get one that comes with it.

Sorry won't be me. never use it for that and never will. I wish someone would show a photo or 2 of where on a scollsaw piece of work it might be used.

Go for it. I am all about quality in everything I make.

definetly overkill. If you could feel the surface on my work you would love it. Not bragging but I have gotten lots of compliments how the wood feels, Projects like my horn project next to the praying hand clock can not sand outside edges and yet the cut from the blade actually shows off the flecks in the oak. I kid you not. Anyone sands wood past 220 grit is wasting their time. Do not forget you have to build to get to 400 grit. You just do not sand with 400 grit. You are all about time I am surprised. Listen I am not saying you are wrong in what you are doing , it just the way you have been doing it so continue. But you can cut time for sure in the sanding dept.

Kevin rarely do I have a problem sanding those areas with my bloc sander because I round over the edges. If I ever have to sand something like that I just wrap some sandpaper and do it by hand. When you scroll the wood should be sanded ready to go. That is the beauty of scrollsaw blades. You do not sand inside your fret cuts so why do you need to sand the outside edges because you used the same blades. I need to sand because I route and no router bit can match the smoothness of a scrollsaw blade. But a few minutes with my porta Cable bloc sander and I am good to go When I route my bases and put a decorative edge I just hand sand with sandpaper rolled up. I have never used my detailed sander on a scrollsawn piece in my life. As I said if I need a small area sanded I hand sand. Takes less time than break out a detailed sander. To me they are not worth the money for scrollsawing. Other jobs yes they are needed. just my opinion. People using those flap sander on fret work I would be afraid to breaking pieces. That would never happen with my work. Flap sander are great for intarsia work or even puzzles that many make.

Not really. As I said they all come with a triangle sanding head and that point of the triangle gives you 3 positions to sand tight corners and because it oscillates it does all the work. They are handy but I have been using the flat blades more as Ray talked about. https://www.acmetools.com/fein-multimaster-mm-500-start-q-oscillating-multi-tool-72295264090/400229002982.html?msclkid=243c2d88356511b0a7a448eab787da31&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping-National-Search Only-Profit Margin Target-41-43&utm_term=4579946971265060&utm_content=Profit Margin 41% - 43%

A detailed sander is a sander that can reach in tight areas and sand the fine details of a project that are hard to get at with a larger palm sander. They almost always have a triangle shaped head to get right into a 90 degree corner. Not sure why you really needs this for what a scroller does but that is what they are. I have a Fein oscillating detail sander now I use it mainly for flush cutting blades.

This may help. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/36503-xmas-reindeer/#comment-403783 This is what started it. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/31960-looking-for-christmas-reindeer-pattern/#comment-356849

Carter was famous for his stamp puzzles he would give away. He would send them out in match boxes. I know somewhere and man have no idea but I have a couple of his puzzles stamps. he did basically Christmas cards into puzzles and just any paintings. loved his work. Can not forget Sylvia (JR. Ranger). I basically stuck with the big names when I was scrolling full time. Rick and Karens work is what propelled me into this and could remember the limited page black and white, brochure he sent out with his plans and that grew over the years . Then if you joined his scrolling club every month you would get sheets of new patterns. Not sure if you remember The White Buffalo. Forgot his name but that was what he went by. I have many of his patterns. He did basically alot of occupational themes and spelled out their occupations. Such as Electrician, Chiropractor, Architect and so forth. he would incorporate a scene relating to what they did within the names. Very cool. Wow you brought up some old names from those MSN sites that I forgot about but clicked when I saw the names. Good times with those sites. You really have to take your hat off to Steve Good for his patterns every single day a new pattern. they are not the most complicated patterns to do but lots of great ideas. I wrote to him a few times trying to get him to do a line of occupational desk clocks. It is something I always wanted to do and he never did get around to them and I stopped pestering him for them. So I had a few designers here make me a few over the years and they did great. I would list but know I will leave someone out and that is not fair. In fact you Kevin even jumped on a few that were made. Sharing our work is a big deal these days because as I said and you can see from this list being compiled of great pattern makers many are passing away and this hobby is slowly dwindling.