JTTHECLOCKMAN

There was a time and a place for those type clocks for sure. As time goes by the fad and the decor changes throughout and things just do not sell as well. I made many projects from the Berry Basket catalogs and I mean many. They were alot of ornate Victorian style work and that has fallen out of favor. That is one reason I stopped making many of the past projects I did because I could not sell them. I still have quite afew in storage but that is for family members to decide what to do with them when I am no longer here. But the Berry Basket patterns got me started in this crazy world of scrolling. Those collapsible baskets were my very first projects and made many of them. Karen and Rick were great designers and really helped me make alot of money back in the day. Loved their work but today it just does not play. There are some pieces that still get by but people look for more modern use projects. I believe I too have the Dome clock pattern somewhere burried amongst the many patterns I have and it was on my to do list to just say I did one. But when you break it all down it is just scrolling flat panels and stacking. You do need room to display and store it for sure.

I worked on many construction jobs where they used those torpedo heaters and I would always go home with a headache and sores in my mouth from breathing that stuff. I rather work in the plain cold than suffer with those things. They needed them for masons. Just can not wrap my head around having an open flame heater in a woodworking shop but to each their own.

It is a beautiful clock and well done. I can see this same thing happening when I pass on too. I am sure whatever family members are left will be wanting to get rid of the many many projects I have laying around and just to get them to a decent home instead of throwing out. The insert is worth more than the $10.

All is fine and everyone is a grown up so they can make their own minds up. What each and everyone does is their own responsibility. My point was to bring some of the danger associated with open flame in a woodworking shop. You bring up some ventless heaters which no I never heard of but never looked into. Who knows if they are legal or not and what everyone's insurance says about their use. That is again something for that person to look into before buying I would think. People drive 80 miles an hour on a highway and never had an accident does not make it right. I wish you all the luck in the world and hope the projects continue. I am sort of fortunate I work out of a basement shop that is insulated from the rest of the basement and is toasty enough to work year round. Somewhat on the smallish side but I make it work.

OK just curious. Because with heater especially open flame heaters read the back of the cans under safety precautions. I tell you there is no way I am putting an open flame heater in any shop if I had to. Would not even recommend it on an open forum like this.

Do you do finishing in your shop too with chemicals?? Lacquers and things of this nature??

I would rethink that. Just saying. Grain and flour silos worry about static causing dust explosions. The same theory people run into when setting up dust collectors and running ground wires through plastic pipes. People worry about cutting metal nails or things with tablesaws and causing sparks. There are those on both sides of the isle that either agree or disagree. My thought is why take that chance.?? Ever look at your shop and see dust spider nests for lack of a better word, because of fine dust collecting in the air. This happens around furnaces too and that is why they suggest you clean filters and things before starting the heating season. Those trails can catch fires. There is documents on this. Ask a fireman. Just saying. fine dust is definitely a hazard for lungs as well. I think it should be noted too that there are different type propane heaters. Open flame and enclosed units so that has merit. Also safety for ventilation and carbon monoxide are factors. Fresh air source when setting up heaters like that are needed.

It is Kevin https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/33487-clock-inserts/?tab=comments#comment-374014

I too would be scared to use an open flame heater where there is fine dust as well as fumes. ventilation is a concern also.

I use the sam blade as I always do for 99% of my projects and that is the #5 Penquin silver reverse FD blades. They are my go to blades. I will go to a #7 if the wood is oily such a rosewoods but cherry cuts smooth as silk. Just need to use sharp blades, keep project moving at a good pace and let the blade do the work. You start pushing the piece into the blade at angles not good. That is when you get burning.

I use these wax sticks and have done most my woodwork using them and you can not find the nail holes. At times I may have to blend a couple colors together. They work great. All home centers have them made by minwax. Also have used their puty and that too works well. If you use the putty just get a color close to what you want and before it dries sand some dust in it. Again all the tricks to finishing. http://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=KVTtfKkr&id=83D99A84048260AD0B5613596780C17C25773633&thid=OIP.KVTtfKkrxBIEnEocH2SlyQHaHa&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fcdn.paintsupply.com%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2016%2f06%2f027426110069.jpg&exph=700&expw=700&q=minwax+fill+color+sticks&simid=608046791690619785&selectedIndex=0&ajaxhist=0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PBBXNG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B015PBBXNG&pd_rd_w=e86Fj&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=BIZ7k&pf_rd_r=Y8J3GRMPYYNJSV1PV6QH&pd_rd_r=c06cbeea-8c64-49df-aa58-da82e6a7399b&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyV1I3TkdOQjBZUEFEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDA1NjExM0pFSE1WNEZXTFoxViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDI1OTM0MVJYMUVPRzQwVTFUTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I guess you are talking about a shear/brake like this. Seems overkill to me but will cut sheet metals for sure. https://www.amazon.com/KAKA-Mini-Shear-Brake-Combination/dp/B015R8IUPQ/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=kaka+industrial&qid=1581743551&sr=8-12

IKE I do not want to be the downer here but you need to read the entire thread or just keep up. He bought the saw already and this a done deal so we need to encourage him. The last question was about maintenance on the Dewalt. That is where the discussion on weather to take apart and how easy. The Dewalt is a good saw for sure. Needs attention at times.

Post a link to what you are looking at. Curious to see it.

That is true. Did not think of that.

OK I saw this the other day and thought of Ray here and others who like to take things apart for maintenance. This has to be the best and most simple video of taking the Dewalt apart for doing maintenance. If you want to do this you need to watch this. Breaks things down to the simplest form. great video. This should be put in the library somewhere or on file somehow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM

I saw this video on utube the other day and thought of Ray here who said to do maintenance on the Dewalt. This is probably the best video and most simple video I seen explaining what to do. In it it shows the screws you are talking about and they do not look hard to remove. But there is a tube of blue locktight so maybe they were locktight in. Good luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM

An old trick we use to use out in the field is to try tightening first and this may break the seizure. You are not going to get any liquids inside but may get on table so take precautions.

Hey go for it. Have fun.

We all have opinions. I have not touched or oiled either of my RBI saws and they are over 20 years old Should I go looking for a problem to head it off and then try dealing with RBI again.??? Same goes for my Hegner. Not an ounce of grease or oil. I believe these saws have sealed bearings anyway. I have a ton of machinery in my shop that has bearings and what not. When it breaks I will fix it. But with that said there are videos on the net that show how to tear down the Dewalt saw and rip it apart and if you are handy get it back together too. I think someone even posted the videos here.

PBBlaster. Best stuff I ever tried for any stuck parts. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-16-PB/205178591

It will say somewhere on the can. Here is what Bill is talking about and the tech notes state it is not a dewaxed shellac and should not be used under poly. Look under product description. The label says sealer. I agree with Bill and if you are unaware of the differences then you can run into problems and thus I bring this up. Not all shellac is the same so when the generic word shellac is used be aware. I agree about putting the wax or dewax right on the front label. All shellac is a seal coat so that is why it is used in all their product labels. https://www.rockler.com/bulls-eyereg-shellac-amber

You did good. The saw will give you plenty of fun and produce many beautiful projects. As I said about the aggressiveness most people do not even notice it and some it helps them. I would saw with it and see how you like it and go from there. Also agree about the maintenance thing I would do nothing until need be. Like my Dad always said if its not broke leave it alone. If the bearing start squeeling then time to find out why and go from there.

It will say right on the back 100% wax free. I believe that is what that is because it says it is a sealer too. Look at back of the can. If that be the case you are good to go. It will even say on back of can. Can be top coated. My work here is done.