JTTHECLOCKMAN

Post a link to what you are looking at. Curious to see it.

That is true. Did not think of that.

OK I saw this the other day and thought of Ray here and others who like to take things apart for maintenance. This has to be the best and most simple video of taking the Dewalt apart for doing maintenance. If you want to do this you need to watch this. Breaks things down to the simplest form. great video. This should be put in the library somewhere or on file somehow. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM

I saw this video on utube the other day and thought of Ray here who said to do maintenance on the Dewalt. This is probably the best video and most simple video I seen explaining what to do. In it it shows the screws you are talking about and they do not look hard to remove. But there is a tube of blue locktight so maybe they were locktight in. Good luck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x42jZgEAUwM

An old trick we use to use out in the field is to try tightening first and this may break the seizure. You are not going to get any liquids inside but may get on table so take precautions.

Hey go for it. Have fun.

We all have opinions. I have not touched or oiled either of my RBI saws and they are over 20 years old Should I go looking for a problem to head it off and then try dealing with RBI again.??? Same goes for my Hegner. Not an ounce of grease or oil. I believe these saws have sealed bearings anyway. I have a ton of machinery in my shop that has bearings and what not. When it breaks I will fix it. But with that said there are videos on the net that show how to tear down the Dewalt saw and rip it apart and if you are handy get it back together too. I think someone even posted the videos here.

PBBlaster. Best stuff I ever tried for any stuck parts. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-16-PB/205178591

It will say somewhere on the can. Here is what Bill is talking about and the tech notes state it is not a dewaxed shellac and should not be used under poly. Look under product description. The label says sealer. I agree with Bill and if you are unaware of the differences then you can run into problems and thus I bring this up. Not all shellac is the same so when the generic word shellac is used be aware. I agree about putting the wax or dewax right on the front label. All shellac is a seal coat so that is why it is used in all their product labels. https://www.rockler.com/bulls-eyereg-shellac-amber

You did good. The saw will give you plenty of fun and produce many beautiful projects. As I said about the aggressiveness most people do not even notice it and some it helps them. I would saw with it and see how you like it and go from there. Also agree about the maintenance thing I would do nothing until need be. Like my Dad always said if its not broke leave it alone. If the bearing start squeeling then time to find out why and go from there.

It will say right on the back 100% wax free. I believe that is what that is because it says it is a sealer too. Look at back of the can. If that be the case you are good to go. It will even say on back of can. Can be top coated. My work here is done.

That is a whole different ballgame. I explained that in my answer above. Now the answer is still NO. Again misinformation being reported. Finishing is a topic that gets thrown around so much and things are just problems waiting to happen. I am no expert so lets get that straight from the getgo. But I have done my share of woodworking and used various products for finishing. You say shellac. There are various types of shellac and you do not say what is being used. Is the piece that is in question something you did?? If so what type shellac did you finish with?? If it is waxed shellac which is a harder shelled finish then the answer is NO. No finish will stick to it including poly. If it is dewaxed shellac than YES you can top coat with anything. If this is flakes and you mixed with alcohol than the answer again is NO. If you do not know what the type finish is that you are trying to use lacquer on then resort back to my original post. Sand the project down and spray or brush on some DEWAXED shellac. This sets up a barrier between products that is safe. Or strip it down entirely and start over but I would still use a dewaxed shellac as the under base or at that time you can go with a sanding sealer. Now if others tell you they have used such and such and had no problems then you decide how you want to approach.

Have fun. This is a great hobby and one you just keep growing into. Good luck with your new toy.

Boy this was my first thought too. My Goodness treat the tools with a little more respect please.

Here is my take. Not all so called top finishes are the same and yet are used basically the same. Some products are used in various places where others can not. But poly and so called varnish are similar in characteristics but used differently. Lacquer is different than polys because with lacquers, the coats melt into each other to form one uniform coat. As with poly and varnish they lay on top of each other forming a thicker coat. Danish oils and tung oils are a totally different category because the get absorbed into the wood fibers as with top coats they lay on top of the wood fibers. Yes Danish oil has poly in it as an ingredient which makes it somewhat a top coat but is not categorized as such. Poly is more plastic and Varnish is more shellac based but with fillers. Anyway no it is not good to apply lacquer over varnish or poly unless you sand the bottom coat and apply a dewaxed shellac to separate the 2 materials or else they will peel. It is also not good to apply poly or varnish over the top of a piece that is already top coated and cured no matter what the finish. You need to sand it to give the new top coat some tooth to adhere or it too will fail and peel. Remember wood is always moving with temps and humidity and thus makes finishing a challenge. Here is an article that can explain the differences of each finish some what. https://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/skills-and-know-how/painting/whats-the-difference-between-polyurethane-varnish-shellac-and-lacquer

Lots of times I forget I have a shop full of woodworking tools and can do just about any woodworking project without too much trouble. My mind goes into creative modes many times when I see projects and i start thinking what I would have done. I use patterns many times as ideas and always want to add my touch to them. Cutting a pattern is boring to me. That is why I could not sell ornaments and clocks and things that need to be cut over and over. Do it once and it is time for something new. Only so much time left in my life and want to leave behind many projects. Just my makeup. So good luck with your project and it looks fine. I am sure you are overcoming some problems and limited resources but that will make it even more rewarding when done and I am sure it will be well received.

They come to all the woodworking shows and I have bought many veneers from them and their quality is great.

http://www.whimsie.com/metalcrafttools.html#anchor1270336 I have bought alot of metals from here. They show what tools will work. I think you are wasting your time with a guillotine cutter like that. It will roll the metal. I could not even cut abalone strips with them.

Very easy. I and many others, use the plastic alot when making pens. They use for segmenting because you can get in various layers and colors. I just bought some real thin stuff that I want to try wrapping on pen tubes. It looks alot like the guitar picks. Good luck with your venture.

Jim, not to burst your bubble but there are many vendors out there who do this and CNC them and make them very decorative and cheap. Look at Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/wood-pickguard/s?k=wood+pickguard Now people on itsy sell as if it is a hobby so prices are higher. https://www.etsy.com/market/wood_pickguard But if still interested you can buy thin stock from various vendors but you are going to pay premium prices for the milling and if wanted in 12 X 12 you will get spliced boards. Ocooch hardwoods, D&D hardwoods, and I am sure there are moore. Getting that thin you then have to worry about warping. Now another way to go would be to use veneers and lay on plywoods. More stable. I am not into musical instruments so I am looking at this from the outside looking in. Maybe something more here than I know so maybe other have more in depth ideas. Good luck.

Use an exacto knife. I use a utility knife many times and even bought some carbide blades for it and works great. Many times just scoring it will snap it. I cut brass much thicker than that on my scrollsaw but I make sure to use a backer on it because it will scratch the table. I have some copper lightning bolts sandwiched between a couple pieces of BB right now that I want for a pen project and it is about that thin. Should be easy to cut.

The older we get the farther away the floor seems to get.

Ray hard to tell but it looks like the last photo you chamfered the top. If you did that is the right tract but you need to do more. It would flow with the theme of the project. Many times just decorating trim rings or bases makes the project jump. I would definitely chamfer the top ring. Cutting circles can easily be done on a bandsaw with a circle cutting jig. I see the biscuits now so that may make the chamfering thing tough to do. Should not have used biscuits. No need for them in that piece. It is looking good though.

Yea but we can say we are scrollsawing. Using a laser to cut the same pattern there is no way you can say you were scrollsawing. I would not have the patients to do fret work with a fret saw for sure. That was my point. Yea I bet he thinks we are cheating too.

Impressive to say the least but it is time to come over to the dark side and get a scrollsaw. You can do more of that type work and enjoy it. No shame in this. It is when you start using the CNC and laser machines that to me are not scrollsawing and just are cheating. Never was impressed with those using CNC and lasers. Yea those people talk about knowledge to set up machine but what the heck is that when it comes to hand eye coordination. Won't go into that here because no one will ever change my mind on that. Hopefully we can change your mind on a scrollsaw. That still requires hand eye coordination and is scrolling as is what you do. Very well done.