JTTHECLOCKMAN

I run 220 grit sandpaper across the set screws as well as the ends of both sides and both ends of the blades. Has worked well. Over time though setscrews become rounded from constant pressure. I take them out and hit them on my grinder to flatten. If you have the screws that have the movable pad then skip that step and just touch with sandpaper.

See what I mean. All different answers and no one blade is THE correct blade. Trial and error is the best teacher.

If you can hear it run and it sounds good that is a good price for that saw hands down. It comes with a foot switch and he has the add-on knurled front knob. That is something I added right away. Well worth that money too. This is what I mean price too high is subjective. yes different areas of the country may vary but age of the saw plays a part for sure but if hardly used means absolutely nothing. It would be worth a look. The bellows always dry rot as I said. But take a look at it. Now run it through the speeds too. $600 is right there. Offer a little lower and see how much they want to sell. Never hurts.

Like I said many factors and he never said anything other than the price.

Kevin they still make the heavy duty motor saw today and it is now $4,000. I would not knock even a non front tension saw as being a low grade. mine did not have the front tension on it and it sold for $1000 back then and as I said I got $500 for it. You can upgrade them now and still be well under what new ones sell. That all has to be weighed. Of course 14 and 18" saws would be lowest you would want to go without front tension lever. Now does a stand mean much to you has to be a question. If so that plays a factor in the price. Look at new pricing today. They are rediculous. But you do get a quality machine. You can change out the entire arm assembly to use the front tension system for far less than a new saw. All depends on your budget and what use you want it for. We did not get enough info on what the saw had and size of the saw. It could actually be a steal. https://www.advmachinery.com/collections/hegner-scroll-saws

Now I will say the price maybe a little high but realistically not. 2 years ago I sold my 18" Hegner with stand and foot pedal for $500. It was a 1993 saw. I had many days of sawing on it but it was in great condition. The only thing that goes bad on those is the plastic blower boot. They dry rot. Mine was still good. It was a 18" Multimax saw. The person did not hesitate. He could of had his choice between that saw and the Dewalt 788 with stand. He chose the Hegner and to me made the right choice. Dewalt is and was a good saw also. The stand for that was brand new. I sold that saw for $350. Hegners and RBI saws hold their value because they are well built and industrial saws. They are not hobby saws. So I question you to as the size and what was included? May not be that bad of a deal. Hegners are built like a tank. If you got one for $200 then the seller did not know what they had unless the condition and extras were not there. Back when I bought mine they were around $1000. I do not remember what I paid but did get it at a woodworking show so did get a better deal. Back in those days scrollsaw companies wer at woodworking shows selling their products. Years do not mean much if the equipment is well maintained.

That is a hard question to answer because so many blade sizes and types out there. Usually what happens is we scrollers fall in love with a particular blade from using it often. This becomes our crutch and seems we use it for just about everything. Now of course certain things need smaller blades such as puzzles and need specialty blades. I say use the blade you are familar with. Not all blades cut the same no matter type, size or brand. My go to blade is is the FD #5 Penquin Silver Reverse blade. I cut with that from 1/8" to 3/4" thick wood of all species. Here is a project that has very detailed lettering like your that I used the PSR blade for. Love the way it cuts and I can control turns with it.

I did watch his review and yes very well done. I agree these lower end saws have come a long way to an extent. This saw is both pin end and flat blade acceptable. and you do not need a special clamp for pin end like the old dremels were. It does use a allen wrench for lower clamp which is a downer. There is no up front tension lever which he brings up as a negative. It does run smooth from watching the video but is loud. he does not agree because he said it was quiet. I did not think so. Does it fit a market? yes it does as does all the types of scrollsaws. You can make beautiful pieces with this saw. But you can also do that with a handheld coping saw too. Reselling this type saw will be harder to find buyers because the simplicity of the saw. Adding a few more better addons will make scrolling that much more enjoyable and to me make the choice to continue much easier. It does have a 2 year warrenty. How and where that is honored I do not know. Now I tried looking up the price of the saw but not easy to find because so new. I even look on Buck Tool site and it is not listed. I did find it and it matches Amazon prices. But I did see it on Amazon and can not believe the prices. The 22" which is far better saw is $369 and the 16" and 18" saw are listed for $349. Something is not right. That is freakin rediculous. You would have to be a true novice to buy either the 16 or 18" saw over the 22" saw.

Saws like these are for the rare use users. They are cheap for a reason. This saw reminds me of the first scrollsaw I started with which was a 2 speed Dremel 16" saw. Basic as they come. if you like the buck line of tools I suggest step up to the 22" and get better saw. That saw mimics the Harbor Freight saw. I bet same line in factory but different color. If you are just buying a saw to see if you like the hobby, I always said that saws like this I bet discourage more people than encourage them. The different method that blades are mounted and tension can be a downer in so many ways. But for about $150 or $100 for their 16" saw I guess there is a market. But if doing any kind of fret work please look at a better saw. You will not be sorry. Bucks $22 is $360.

I understand what you are trying but you still need to straighten the edges on that you want to attach the strips too or they will not sit flat. If you do that then you may not need the strips. Very easy to do on a tablesaw. just use a square piece of plywood and attach the frame to it using double sided tape. Make one end as close to the end of the plywood that keeps the side of the frame looking staright. Probably would have to eye this or you can use a ruler. Once you have one side done use that against the fence and cut other side to match thickness of frame. The do the same for top and bottom. Maybe easier to do than explain but that would be my work around.

The one thing you can not control is grain pattern. Woods with heavy grain can veer the blade no matter what you try or how large a blade you use. It is flexible scrollsaw blade remember that. That is why I suggest elliminate 4 sides of cutting with scrollsaw blade. Should be a nice project when done. Good luck.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/559220478719430475/ Click on Bobby Riggs name and message him.

If I were doing a project like that I would have cut the outside frame on my tablesaw. I would get dead on straight cuts. The inside cuts is just a matter of practice to be able to cut a straight line. You could still trim it up on the tablesaw or use a belt sander.

Looks like basic carpentry woodworking to me. The big difference is the fret work panels that get incorporated in the framing. Again no big deal. The one thing let them float and stain before assembly.

https://scrollsawartist.com/scroll-saw-patterns/religious-inspirational/other-crosses/?page=44 I do not know who the pattern belongs to but I did check 2 of the largest pattern makers Shiela and Sue Mey. If may make a suggestion. if you can not find that pattern and you are into looking at others I would look at the link I posted. Sue has 44 pages of crosses alone and they are really beautiful. May find something that can take the place of the one you want.

I thought King was a Canadian saw and the excaliper which is same saw was American/ China. OK what am I not getting here? Something is fishy. Their 22" saw is $449 and their 16" is $749. I bet it is the other way around. And you get a free stand with purchase. My goodness. That is a $130 extra.I see the 16" is not available any more. Even if this is China made that beats all their other China made saws they are selling. Including the Dewalt. It says they are made in Taiwan from what I can find out. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/king-industrial-22-scroll-saw?variant=46242636595338&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=a5fb64a9548311ca1f410d8f21b8238e&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax | Feed Only | tROAS 1500 | Relaunch 15%2F09%2F2025&utm_term=2331514407219523&utm_content=Current Asset Variation

Man the price of those saws went up big $$$$

Good luck. Could you share where you got the saw? Yes keep us in the loop as to progress. I would ask them a question if they set the saws up and test, before they send them out? Curious to hear his answer.

Wow Kevin I have never seen that either. A refurbished saw and they are selling close to the original price. As mentioned there are quite afew of this design saws out there. Seems that is the go to design these days. I just do not get for the price of that saw they should be unbox and start using ready. I am sorry but just my thoughts. I have heard good things from people here about that saw. I believe that Harbor Freight saw falls in the same catagory. If that be the case then $280 is even better than Grizzly. Excaliber same catagory. Dewalt is a good midrange saw. I put this Pegas saw in the midrange saws.

https://pegas-scroll-saw.com/# It is amazing I can not click on the reviews. Now they claim Swiss engerneering. Any Swiss watch I had worked liked it should when bought. It is one thing when a saw gets older and things start to break down and you need to repair or tinker with but to have to do this stuff with the arms and the vibration just does not make sense to me. I love my RBI saws. Set up and scroll the very first day. Even my Hegner. Now the Dewalt that uses that same type linkage was a set up and scroll. Back in the day when they came out of Canada the biggest problem was the table needed some adjutment but that was scrollers preference. That was a $500 saw.

You do what you want. It is your saw but as I said if it were me I would not even touch it and tell them to move the motor and ship it back so it does not move in shipping. What if you had no idea what end is up on a screwdriver. yes there are people like this. What those screws just loosen up on their own. This tells me they were never tested for accuracy. $1000 + saw and you have to fiddle with it to make it run smooth. WOW. I hope you get it to work for you. Happy scrolling. Look forward to seeing some projects come off of it.

I hate to say this but in no way shape or form should you have to do any of this to a brand new saw right from a dealer. I would be on the phone the very next day I saw this. And tell them the next saw they send out better be dead on right or else take it back and return your full amount or a lawsuit follows. I am dead serious. You are messing with a warrenty. If those saws require you to do this then I would stay far away from them. They are not worth the money and the headache. These are not cheap saws. Where is the quality control? They should not leave the shop unleass each saw is tested. Not like they sell millions of these.

may help a little https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=how+to+get+rid+of+vibration+on+a+pegas+scrollsaw&mid=AC2894F75A3F5A1A64B2AC2894F75A3F5A1A64B2&mcid=0395C729DEC84D0CAC315E61F91FF3E5&FORM=VIRE

Make another call.

One thing I caution you on is when setting up in the place you will eventually use it make sure the legs are splayed properly and the saw sits level on the floor and on a solid surface preferrably a concrete base. Do not put rubber mats under the legs. Never carry the saw by the saw. Always the base. make sure all bolts are locked down and secure. I am sure Kevin can give you a few more tips like oiling the cam over lever and things if he sees this posting. Not much else but to sit back an enjoy the new toy. You will not regret the purchase. Takes a little fiddling to get comfortable with blade changng and how to set the proper tension and inding that golden sawing speed. Every saw runs into harmonic inbalances that make the saw vibrate a little but tweak up or down and they go away. Enjoy and look forward to seeing some projects come off the saw.