JTTHECLOCKMAN

Yea I confess I am a wood hoarder too. Over the years I would go to woodworking shows and always pick up boards of wood because of sales. Then there was my wood dealer that always had Black Friday sales that were too good to pass on. So it began. Then when I got into scrolling I too would just hate to throw small pieces away. It got so bad I finally had to get barrels of cutoffs out of the shop and could not give it away. i figured people would fireplaces would want it but no. I wound up throwing in the trash dump. That hurt. This time I am on a mission. It may take a few years but it all has to go. Will see what comes out of it.

I think I have mentioned this before that I too have a source for domestics and some exotics. I can also get BB if wanted from them too. I have so much wood sitting around and stored in the shop as well as other places that I really want to get out. I think I mentioned this also the best way I can do that is make some projects. This way they will serve a purpose and also makes me happy I am in the shop. the last 2 years I have been too busy. But last year about I started cleaning the shop and reorganizing. I am almost totally done now and this will give me an opportunity to do some fun projects. I have so many ideas and I know I will not get many of them done but for about 3 or 4 months I will be able to do some. The woods I ordered were because I do not want to waste time resawing all the time and planing and sanding. When you buy from Ocooch the wood is S4 grade so that means a whole lot less work. I know I will still have to mill some woods but not as much. I am waiting on my order of some spectraply woods that I will incorporate in the projects as well as some inlay strips. When I get done by end of winter I will post a bunch of photos to share with everyone what I have been working on. Then after that it is back to my house to finish up many of those projects. The big job this year will be a new landscaping around entire house. Inside I have painting of all rooms as well as installing woodwork and hanging doors. How much that gets done is anyones guess. But getting older and the body does not go as fast any more. I am really geeked about working in the shop again. May throw in a few scrollsaw projects too as well I know I will be making some new pens.

OK I did a little calculating as best as I could. I will use TWS for The Wood Shop and OC for Ocooch woods. In TWS i could not buy quite afew things I bought at OC . Could not get 1/16" stock of any of the woods I wanted. (basically 5 different woods and 2 pc each at 8" or wider X 24") My 3/4" BB plywood I could not get 20" X 20" so I calculated 20" X 30" is what TWS had and I ordered 6 compared to the 10 I got from OC. Figured that would make up price wise. Could not get 1/8" in 2 woods in TWS. Could not get 1/4" 4 woods in TWS. Could not get 1, 3/4" wood in TWS. So I did not count those prices in TWS. Bottom line for what I could get in TWS that matched my order in OC came to $527 and shipping was $95 by UPS The order I got from OC came to $578 with all the woods I said I could not get at TWS. Shipping was $99 UPS So I ask you I got more wood from OC so larger weight and shipped from same company. My take away from this whole thing is Ocooch is cheaper product wise. Carries more species of woods in more size ranges. And cheaper shipping. Now to be fair I did not check distance these had to ship if that plays that big of a deal. Plus I still do not know the quality of woods they offer. I am very happy with Ocooch for my woods of this type order. What this means to anyone else take it for what it is worth $0.

Wood dealer do not use Post office. None that I ever dealt with and have used many.

This is true but there are companys that go too far. Depending on the carrier they use UPS is very expensive. Maybe today I will sit down and compare shipping costs of my entire order. Now I will say this I wound up making 3 different orders with Ocooch because my thoughts were quickle expanding into what I want to do. But I made all orders within a day of each other and I mentioned to them that I would like to get orders all combined. Their reply was it was cheaper to send them seperately. how true that was I do not know but at least they mentioned it. All orders came the same day so they shipped them out all the same day. They do ship quickly. I have no complaints about Ocooch for supplys at all. Always been happy. That counts alot. I have shopped many other on line wood suppliers and seen some sales but if you follow wood prices they really are not sales. They drop prices down from what they normallly sell for but not cheaper. I will test this company in the link above.

I just got my order this morning from Ocooch woods. I basically ordered alot of 1/16" and 1/8" boards about 6 to 8" wide 24" long. My reason for this is I will be making a bunch of boxes this winter. I did order some 3/4" stock too by 24" long. With all the lumber I have stored over the years I should be able to do what I want to. I can easily resaw the 3/4" for the boxes. The thin stuff is for segmenting strips into the designs. I did not want to have to resaw all that stuff and plane it and sand it. My time is limited this winter but need to start reducing my inventory of hoarded woods. If and when I get empty shelves and wall space I will then buy lumber as I need it per project. Doing my best to help with the end of life thing. I can easily get rid of boxes as opposed to scrollsawn stuff. I did get some 3/4' BB also because I use that for many projects such as building jigs and things so that is always handy. I quickly looked through the order and things look fine. I did not unwrap the wood because I want it to settle down in the warm air of the shop now to help with the warping thing. But I am very confident of quality. have been ordering from them for years. I did look at the curly maple boards I got and love them. Beautiful wood. Going to make a nice box. What I did do is started comparing prices from Ocooch to the link above. I found for the woods I ordered they are much more expensive on certain ones and only pennies more on others. That place has a large selection of not only woods but other items which make them a good place to keep in mind. as far as quality goes I do not know but what I may do is when I settle into my process this winter I will place a small order with them and test the quality in both domestic and exotic woods. I will be interested in others to hear what they have found too. Need to check shipping too. That is something I did not do. Ocooch is not cheap.

I too have never heard of them. Alot will depend on what you are looking for, shipping costs, and grade and condition of the piece. Hopefully others can add some insight. I have a ton of wood coming from Ocooch tomorrow, is a matter of fact. What I am going to do is compare my order from them and this company when I get the packing slips. Will be interesting.

That came out very well. I am sure it will get some good use. Thanks for the ride. Hope you show more projects.

I am bringing this topic up again because I have seen this cross many times over the years and even recently. I too am wondering is there a pattern for this and where is it available. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I too down size as well as increase all the time. If it fits on legal paper I do it on my printer. If not I go to FedX and do it there.

Very good. The one draw back is the knob is still a small knob that maybe a problem. Good luck.

I run 220 grit sandpaper across the set screws as well as the ends of both sides and both ends of the blades. Has worked well. Over time though setscrews become rounded from constant pressure. I take them out and hit them on my grinder to flatten. If you have the screws that have the movable pad then skip that step and just touch with sandpaper.

See what I mean. All different answers and no one blade is THE correct blade. Trial and error is the best teacher.

If you can hear it run and it sounds good that is a good price for that saw hands down. It comes with a foot switch and he has the add-on knurled front knob. That is something I added right away. Well worth that money too. This is what I mean price too high is subjective. yes different areas of the country may vary but age of the saw plays a part for sure but if hardly used means absolutely nothing. It would be worth a look. The bellows always dry rot as I said. But take a look at it. Now run it through the speeds too. $600 is right there. Offer a little lower and see how much they want to sell. Never hurts.

Like I said many factors and he never said anything other than the price.

Kevin they still make the heavy duty motor saw today and it is now $4,000. I would not knock even a non front tension saw as being a low grade. mine did not have the front tension on it and it sold for $1000 back then and as I said I got $500 for it. You can upgrade them now and still be well under what new ones sell. That all has to be weighed. Of course 14 and 18" saws would be lowest you would want to go without front tension lever. Now does a stand mean much to you has to be a question. If so that plays a factor in the price. Look at new pricing today. They are rediculous. But you do get a quality machine. You can change out the entire arm assembly to use the front tension system for far less than a new saw. All depends on your budget and what use you want it for. We did not get enough info on what the saw had and size of the saw. It could actually be a steal. https://www.advmachinery.com/collections/hegner-scroll-saws

Now I will say the price maybe a little high but realistically not. 2 years ago I sold my 18" Hegner with stand and foot pedal for $500. It was a 1993 saw. I had many days of sawing on it but it was in great condition. The only thing that goes bad on those is the plastic blower boot. They dry rot. Mine was still good. It was a 18" Multimax saw. The person did not hesitate. He could of had his choice between that saw and the Dewalt 788 with stand. He chose the Hegner and to me made the right choice. Dewalt is and was a good saw also. The stand for that was brand new. I sold that saw for $350. Hegners and RBI saws hold their value because they are well built and industrial saws. They are not hobby saws. So I question you to as the size and what was included? May not be that bad of a deal. Hegners are built like a tank. If you got one for $200 then the seller did not know what they had unless the condition and extras were not there. Back when I bought mine they were around $1000. I do not remember what I paid but did get it at a woodworking show so did get a better deal. Back in those days scrollsaw companies wer at woodworking shows selling their products. Years do not mean much if the equipment is well maintained.

That is a hard question to answer because so many blade sizes and types out there. Usually what happens is we scrollers fall in love with a particular blade from using it often. This becomes our crutch and seems we use it for just about everything. Now of course certain things need smaller blades such as puzzles and need specialty blades. I say use the blade you are familar with. Not all blades cut the same no matter type, size or brand. My go to blade is is the FD #5 Penquin Silver Reverse blade. I cut with that from 1/8" to 3/4" thick wood of all species. Here is a project that has very detailed lettering like your that I used the PSR blade for. Love the way it cuts and I can control turns with it.

I did watch his review and yes very well done. I agree these lower end saws have come a long way to an extent. This saw is both pin end and flat blade acceptable. and you do not need a special clamp for pin end like the old dremels were. It does use a allen wrench for lower clamp which is a downer. There is no up front tension lever which he brings up as a negative. It does run smooth from watching the video but is loud. he does not agree because he said it was quiet. I did not think so. Does it fit a market? yes it does as does all the types of scrollsaws. You can make beautiful pieces with this saw. But you can also do that with a handheld coping saw too. Reselling this type saw will be harder to find buyers because the simplicity of the saw. Adding a few more better addons will make scrolling that much more enjoyable and to me make the choice to continue much easier. It does have a 2 year warrenty. How and where that is honored I do not know. Now I tried looking up the price of the saw but not easy to find because so new. I even look on Buck Tool site and it is not listed. I did find it and it matches Amazon prices. But I did see it on Amazon and can not believe the prices. The 22" which is far better saw is $369 and the 16" and 18" saw are listed for $349. Something is not right. That is freakin rediculous. You would have to be a true novice to buy either the 16 or 18" saw over the 22" saw.

Saws like these are for the rare use users. They are cheap for a reason. This saw reminds me of the first scrollsaw I started with which was a 2 speed Dremel 16" saw. Basic as they come. if you like the buck line of tools I suggest step up to the 22" and get better saw. That saw mimics the Harbor Freight saw. I bet same line in factory but different color. If you are just buying a saw to see if you like the hobby, I always said that saws like this I bet discourage more people than encourage them. The different method that blades are mounted and tension can be a downer in so many ways. But for about $150 or $100 for their 16" saw I guess there is a market. But if doing any kind of fret work please look at a better saw. You will not be sorry. Bucks $22 is $360.

I understand what you are trying but you still need to straighten the edges on that you want to attach the strips too or they will not sit flat. If you do that then you may not need the strips. Very easy to do on a tablesaw. just use a square piece of plywood and attach the frame to it using double sided tape. Make one end as close to the end of the plywood that keeps the side of the frame looking staright. Probably would have to eye this or you can use a ruler. Once you have one side done use that against the fence and cut other side to match thickness of frame. The do the same for top and bottom. Maybe easier to do than explain but that would be my work around.

The one thing you can not control is grain pattern. Woods with heavy grain can veer the blade no matter what you try or how large a blade you use. It is flexible scrollsaw blade remember that. That is why I suggest elliminate 4 sides of cutting with scrollsaw blade. Should be a nice project when done. Good luck.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/559220478719430475/ Click on Bobby Riggs name and message him.

If I were doing a project like that I would have cut the outside frame on my tablesaw. I would get dead on straight cuts. The inside cuts is just a matter of practice to be able to cut a straight line. You could still trim it up on the tablesaw or use a belt sander.

Looks like basic carpentry woodworking to me. The big difference is the fret work panels that get incorporated in the framing. Again no big deal. The one thing let them float and stain before assembly.