JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thanks I would love to be able to see both side by side and compare if anyone has done this. Just not sure about that suede look. I have always used the original stuff but I am going to be placing a large order so I may just order some and see for myself. But if I liked it then I will kick myself for not ordering the suede instead. That is my dilema.

Are you using the suede flocking or the original??

I hate to deal with Amazon. Another question and I see it more and more, suede flocking. Do you all prefer suede flocking material to the original and if so why?? Also being I have never tried suede flocking do you have a photo of any pieces where you used it on. If you used both what is the main differences?? Thanks

I too do both and you have to. Having a piece that is finished to high standards makes or breaks a piece in my opinion. I sand the wood to 180 grit before scrolling. After done I always sand to 220 grit to rid the fuzzies and give a nice feel to the wood. I use a compressor to blow the dust out of the frets and the grain lines of the wood and I believe this is important too. I do this always outside for it is never too cold or hot to do this.

Being I worked in the construction trades for 43 years as an electrician I became aware of job site dangers from all aspects, not only my trade but surrounding trades. With this safety equipment and safety practices have carried over into my everyday shop time. So yes to all of the above. If just scrolling I wear a dust mask because I do not use a vac system on it. Too noisy and annoying. Just clean up after each session. Have to wear glasses now so safety glass all the time but will switch to a full mask at times if working on lathe or something I know will have potential to throw projectiles. Only use proper gloves when finishing. Any gloves around other tools is potential for disaster. I believe the best safety device we all have and need to use more often is the thing that sits on our shoulders. It is dangerous to be working with any kind of machinery to start with. Knowing and understanding those tools is paramount and having a good frame of mind when we enter the shop. If you have other things on your mind or you are in a hurry to get orders done you are opening yourself up for disaster and possible injury. Think before you do. As they say if it feels wrong it probably is. The use of jigs and hold downs can save time, money and injuries. Most people her just use a scrollsaw and perhaps a sander, but as I there are those that have a shop full of tools and anyone has dangers built in. So proper safety precautions are needed. Work safe.

For those that do flocking on their projects my question is where are you buying your materials?? I bought Donjer flocking and paints many years ago but recently I need to add colors and I can not find my old vendor so I am asking where a good place to buy Donjer materials?? Hopefully this question is allowed her and if not someone will move. Thanks.

Have to say I have never heard of this and my friend was huge into racing. Good luck.

The sky is the limit along with your own imagination. There are so many examples on the net. Those shown here are very well done and fit the objects placed in them well. Many times a frame just makes a piece stand out more so. Many examples of that here. Yes there is added work hours but charge more. People pay big money if buying custom frames.

Scrolling is a hobby. The very first rule is to relax and let the saw do the cutting. It is not a fast hobby in that the projects you work on are not going to be spit out in record time. It is a hobby where hand eye coordination takes over. It is a hobby where touch and feel are important as well as listening to the saw. You feel with your hands and become aware of what needs to be done. You learn the pressure points, not only pushing but downward and also sideward. This is all learned over time and becomes muscle memory and once you acquire it and you will, it does not go away like riding a bike. As mentioned you are challenging yourself a little too hard in that 1" of plywood is tough to scroll even for the best of scrollers. With plywood you have wood grain direction to contend with as well as the glue used to hold the plys together. This all wears out blades that much faster. The blade you chose is part of your problem in that it is too small for the project and the type makes it difficult to control because of the teeth direction. I too love FD penguin silver reverse #5 blades. These are my go to blades and have been for years. Not to big or too small and last a long time. yet the small amount of reverse teeth on the bottom of the blade does help with fussies. Tough to explain the pressure thing for as I said it is a feel thing but if you know what to look for it helps to read what is happening. See when you are fighting your cuts you now are not relaxing and too many bad things will happen. I suggest the first thing is cut that stack in half and go from there. As you get better at it you can increase and push the limits. But you need basics first. Good luck.

I buy it at woodworking shows in many different thickness and sizes. Nothing sticks to it so that is why it is used in pen making and woodworking. Used for molds because can withstand high heats.

In our world that plastic is called Delrin. Used for many things such as jigs for sawing, molds for casting, bushings for pen turning,and many other things. I use it quite a bit. You can look at applications on that site and mentions manifolds. http://www.eplastics.com/Acetal_Delrin_Sheet?msclkid=d8fc3a1a0719121864fa609596c35fcd&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Engineering Plastics - Specific&utm_term=delrin pl

It is funny I just ordered some aluminum cutting blades from Mikes workshop along with my puzzle blades because I was curious as to how they would cut. Also ordered some of their jeweler blades along with my usual #5 reverse penquin blades that I already have a ton of. I cut alot of aluminum on my tablesaw and also on my bandsaw using a metal cutting blade and on the tablesaw I have a blade specific to cut non ferrous metals it is carbide of course. but has a negative rake to it. Works well. Something like that needs to be cut on a waterjet or cnc machine for accuracy.

I use various methods of hanging items and much depends on weight. In you case I use the hooks that Scott has shown or something close. I have at times also used saw tooth hangers for heavier pieces and ones that may need leveling with a better control of that. For shelves I use keyholes routed in the backs of shelves.

Many way to make downdraft tables. Many people buy pegboard for the top. I try to do all sanding out doors but have on occasion had to pull out my downdraft table and they work well.

1 and 6 could be Bubinga. I had a board that color exactly and I am trying to remember what it was. Being reddish I chose rosewood because I use them alot but have also used bubinga too so it is possible because that company does not sell rosewoods. Bubinga is referred to as African Rosewood so it is in the rosewood family. As far as yellowheart, that is one wood that is hard to mistake, it is yellow.

I think using spiral blades is like going to the dark side I never could get the hang of using them. I cut my teeth on pinned end blades many moons ago and went to flat blades and have been a happy camper ever since. I use to test drive blades for Mike Moorloch when he was running Mike's Workshop. (Lost a great man there that is for sure) He did send me some spiral blades and they had flat ends. I remember this because the rage at the time the spiral blades came out people were having problems with the round blade slipping out of the blade holder. So if I were to make a guess FD blades can be what you are looking for. Love the FD line of blades.

That would be the stuff.

That comes off your taxes. To and from shows as well as picking up materials from lumber yards or Home Depots. Good to have a business account with Home Depot if you are going that route too. Also a seperate credit card for the business. I have this. Easier to keep records of sales. We can break this down to a fine pulp if others want to.

I do not think 1 and 6 are walnut. Not with that reddish look. (I can easily make a case for a rosewood and again so many varieties of rosewoods) The oak can also be ash. The wood you show can be a mahogany. There are so many varieties of mahogany.

I do as Fred does but do not lacquer unless the project needs it but most time it does not. I use Watco Danish oil and dip. Let drip and then wipe off. May have to wipe a couple of times because I use oak for most my projects and the pores will hold a certain amount of oil and then drain. After they sit for a few days I wipe a coat of Watco satin polish on and let dry over night and buff out the next day. I have been doing this for a very very very long time and it works for me. Some people need to get things out in a hurry so I will let them explain their methods. If you are top coating with poly or lacquer only one coat of oil is needed. No one can tell you how many coats of lacquer to use because we do not know or see your spraying method and equipment used. so to this I say as many as is needed. Just be careful mixing finishes. Oil and water do not mix. If you seperate with a coat of dewax shellac then anything goes. Finishing is all part of the project and it can make or break a project so do the best you can and do not take it for granted. I have been complimented on the finish of my pieces many times over the years and that carries weight.

Well I guess this insurance thing is not going away so as mentioned best to talk to your agent about anything such as what is covered incase Mother Nature does her thing, as well as having a business and not only tools but now computers to do the clerical end of things because now the business just went from the shop to the desk. Also take photos and plenty of them because again insurances as Kevin pointed out will weasel out. Also receipts so now you are into book keeping and keep book keeping off site or in a secure fireproof safe or strong box. Proper storage of flamables (not just on a shelf) need to be followed as well as updated electrical outlets for equipment used to help your case. Smoke detectors in the shop are a must because now you are under fire marshal laws for owning a shop for a business. Having fire extinguishers are a must. The list will go on and if you think this is BS ask your agent and get some books on starting a business. Did we scare everyone away yet?? No well lets talk taxes because all your tools are write offs over periods of time and money spent on the business needs to recorded and proof needed for the IRS. You will be looked at with a fine tooth comb when first starting out because you have changed your dynamics so be prepared and have a good accountant. Yes the Hobby/Business forms can work for you up to certain $$$ amounts so speak to your accountant. Still not enough yet, as Kevin pointed out he has extra insurance for the selling end of things in case of lawsuits from anything he sells. Good deal. So speak to your insurance agent. As I said every town, city, state has their own laws and then the IRS has theirs so if you truely going into a business get your ducks in a row but have fun. (Or you can do the shuffle and get by too. Your call)

So many of those things are used for other woodworking projects and being I have a shop full of tools I just grab what is needed at the time. The biggest and most important thing on the list is a good efficient scroll saw that is easily used.

Kevin having a business is such a grey area as whole initself. You can buy riders insurance if you work out of your home as a business and this opens many of audits been there done that. What you say will not apply to everyone because each town city and state have their own laws too. The IRS has its set of rules but so grey it is a nightmare even for a professional accountant. Again been there done that. I started over 35 years ago way longer than you have and I have seen many changes not only to IRS laws but to craft show rules. There is a thing now that some shows at least the large one want you to carry insurance in case someone gets hurt in your booth. As I said you can take any item in the world that you make and it can get turned into a law suit. Heck I have been turning pens now for over 12 years and I know a person who got sued because a person bought a fountain pen and while changing the fill cartridge they spilled on their furniture and floor staining these things. Frivolous lawsuits usually get thrown out of court right away and a good lawyer gets you money back. It is the hassles but that is where we are. There are a ton of books on small business startups. There are also laws protecting you as a seller from frivolous lawsuits too. I do not give law info because I am not a lawyer. I do not give electrical info just because I am an electrician for many times things are misinterpreted. As I said this thread was about making those money puzzles which I am surely going to do even more so now. Just ordered some puzzle blades. If I had to duck everything I make because of a lawsuit I would stay home and wrap myself up in a blanket and never show myself again. Can not live your life that way. And if anyone is getting business info from this topic you are a fool. Get first hand info from the people in the know before you start a business. If there is a person on this site that has first hand knowledge because they are a lawyer and deal with small business start-ups it would be nice if they start a thread and maybe it can get pinned for safe keeping here and referred to over time. Happy Scrolling everyone.