JTTHECLOCKMAN

I buy it at woodworking shows in many different thickness and sizes. Nothing sticks to it so that is why it is used in pen making and woodworking. Used for molds because can withstand high heats.

In our world that plastic is called Delrin. Used for many things such as jigs for sawing, molds for casting, bushings for pen turning,and many other things. I use it quite a bit. You can look at applications on that site and mentions manifolds. http://www.eplastics.com/Acetal_Delrin_Sheet?msclkid=d8fc3a1a0719121864fa609596c35fcd&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Engineering Plastics - Specific&utm_term=delrin pl

It is funny I just ordered some aluminum cutting blades from Mikes workshop along with my puzzle blades because I was curious as to how they would cut. Also ordered some of their jeweler blades along with my usual #5 reverse penquin blades that I already have a ton of. I cut alot of aluminum on my tablesaw and also on my bandsaw using a metal cutting blade and on the tablesaw I have a blade specific to cut non ferrous metals it is carbide of course. but has a negative rake to it. Works well. Something like that needs to be cut on a waterjet or cnc machine for accuracy.

I use various methods of hanging items and much depends on weight. In you case I use the hooks that Scott has shown or something close. I have at times also used saw tooth hangers for heavier pieces and ones that may need leveling with a better control of that. For shelves I use keyholes routed in the backs of shelves.

Many way to make downdraft tables. Many people buy pegboard for the top. I try to do all sanding out doors but have on occasion had to pull out my downdraft table and they work well.

1 and 6 could be Bubinga. I had a board that color exactly and I am trying to remember what it was. Being reddish I chose rosewood because I use them alot but have also used bubinga too so it is possible because that company does not sell rosewoods. Bubinga is referred to as African Rosewood so it is in the rosewood family. As far as yellowheart, that is one wood that is hard to mistake, it is yellow.

I think using spiral blades is like going to the dark side I never could get the hang of using them. I cut my teeth on pinned end blades many moons ago and went to flat blades and have been a happy camper ever since. I use to test drive blades for Mike Moorloch when he was running Mike's Workshop. (Lost a great man there that is for sure) He did send me some spiral blades and they had flat ends. I remember this because the rage at the time the spiral blades came out people were having problems with the round blade slipping out of the blade holder. So if I were to make a guess FD blades can be what you are looking for. Love the FD line of blades.

That would be the stuff.

That comes off your taxes. To and from shows as well as picking up materials from lumber yards or Home Depots. Good to have a business account with Home Depot if you are going that route too. Also a seperate credit card for the business. I have this. Easier to keep records of sales. We can break this down to a fine pulp if others want to.

I do not think 1 and 6 are walnut. Not with that reddish look. (I can easily make a case for a rosewood and again so many varieties of rosewoods) The oak can also be ash. The wood you show can be a mahogany. There are so many varieties of mahogany.

I do as Fred does but do not lacquer unless the project needs it but most time it does not. I use Watco Danish oil and dip. Let drip and then wipe off. May have to wipe a couple of times because I use oak for most my projects and the pores will hold a certain amount of oil and then drain. After they sit for a few days I wipe a coat of Watco satin polish on and let dry over night and buff out the next day. I have been doing this for a very very very long time and it works for me. Some people need to get things out in a hurry so I will let them explain their methods. If you are top coating with poly or lacquer only one coat of oil is needed. No one can tell you how many coats of lacquer to use because we do not know or see your spraying method and equipment used. so to this I say as many as is needed. Just be careful mixing finishes. Oil and water do not mix. If you seperate with a coat of dewax shellac then anything goes. Finishing is all part of the project and it can make or break a project so do the best you can and do not take it for granted. I have been complimented on the finish of my pieces many times over the years and that carries weight.

Well I guess this insurance thing is not going away so as mentioned best to talk to your agent about anything such as what is covered incase Mother Nature does her thing, as well as having a business and not only tools but now computers to do the clerical end of things because now the business just went from the shop to the desk. Also take photos and plenty of them because again insurances as Kevin pointed out will weasel out. Also receipts so now you are into book keeping and keep book keeping off site or in a secure fireproof safe or strong box. Proper storage of flamables (not just on a shelf) need to be followed as well as updated electrical outlets for equipment used to help your case. Smoke detectors in the shop are a must because now you are under fire marshal laws for owning a shop for a business. Having fire extinguishers are a must. The list will go on and if you think this is BS ask your agent and get some books on starting a business. Did we scare everyone away yet?? No well lets talk taxes because all your tools are write offs over periods of time and money spent on the business needs to recorded and proof needed for the IRS. You will be looked at with a fine tooth comb when first starting out because you have changed your dynamics so be prepared and have a good accountant. Yes the Hobby/Business forms can work for you up to certain $$$ amounts so speak to your accountant. Still not enough yet, as Kevin pointed out he has extra insurance for the selling end of things in case of lawsuits from anything he sells. Good deal. So speak to your insurance agent. As I said every town, city, state has their own laws and then the IRS has theirs so if you truely going into a business get your ducks in a row but have fun. (Or you can do the shuffle and get by too. Your call)

So many of those things are used for other woodworking projects and being I have a shop full of tools I just grab what is needed at the time. The biggest and most important thing on the list is a good efficient scroll saw that is easily used.

Kevin having a business is such a grey area as whole initself. You can buy riders insurance if you work out of your home as a business and this opens many of audits been there done that. What you say will not apply to everyone because each town city and state have their own laws too. The IRS has its set of rules but so grey it is a nightmare even for a professional accountant. Again been there done that. I started over 35 years ago way longer than you have and I have seen many changes not only to IRS laws but to craft show rules. There is a thing now that some shows at least the large one want you to carry insurance in case someone gets hurt in your booth. As I said you can take any item in the world that you make and it can get turned into a law suit. Heck I have been turning pens now for over 12 years and I know a person who got sued because a person bought a fountain pen and while changing the fill cartridge they spilled on their furniture and floor staining these things. Frivolous lawsuits usually get thrown out of court right away and a good lawyer gets you money back. It is the hassles but that is where we are. There are a ton of books on small business startups. There are also laws protecting you as a seller from frivolous lawsuits too. I do not give law info because I am not a lawyer. I do not give electrical info just because I am an electrician for many times things are misinterpreted. As I said this thread was about making those money puzzles which I am surely going to do even more so now. Just ordered some puzzle blades. If I had to duck everything I make because of a lawsuit I would stay home and wrap myself up in a blanket and never show myself again. Can not live your life that way. And if anyone is getting business info from this topic you are a fool. Get first hand info from the people in the know before you start a business. If there is a person on this site that has first hand knowledge because they are a lawyer and deal with small business start-ups it would be nice if they start a thread and maybe it can get pinned for safe keeping here and referred to over time. Happy Scrolling everyone.

I buy the rolls where I cut my own lengths. Cheaper and works well for me. Very easy to do. Take old one off and use as template for new one. I buy mine here as well as other papers. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/drsaro.html

Can't worry about it Kevin. Glad you have extra insurance. Hope that person does not cut their finger off taking out those clock inserts when replacing clocks and he uses a knife blade. Just saying that you can take anything in the world and make it a hazard. Sometimes responsibility and headsup has to step in. I do not want to get into this here. Not my concern.

I always buy rolls that I cut to use. Cheaper that way and very very easy to do. I get mine here along with sanding pads. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/drsaro.html

I have used these words myself here many times and that is why I do not and never will make toys for kids of any kind. Not only small pieces to swallow but paints and finishes used. This is also something adults need to be aware of too. I may just make a few and try to sell them. As I sell to an adult I will warn them. This is the same thing with bullet pens that I make. I will not sell to any kids under 18 years old. By then they are out of school and they are adults so to speak. Happened at my last show. I explained to the kid I am not allowed to sell it to them. It is a pen but can mistaken. I warn people if they are traveling also that it can be confiscated at an airport. Not my concern after the sale. You can not follow every sale you make as I am sure you can not either and sure there are questionable items you sell also. It is ashame the society we live in today. A clock you made is hung on a wall and the kid knocks it off and has a sharp edge and kills the kid. Think about your words too. I got this far in life I am not running in fear now.

How old?? You say good condition but is all working well. If so $500 is a great price and no more than $600

I probably should have included some more info. They are the $ puzzles from Steve Goode and the material is 1/4" BB so I will get some FD puzzle blades as he suggests. May also make some picture puzzles as he shows too. Thanks all. Where is the best place to buy the FD puzzle blades??? I may even try some of my jewelers blades. Thinking of giving as gifts at shows. I should also ask here has anyone done this puzzle before and if so are you using real dollar bills and if so is it legal to cut them up like that?? I know I could make paper copies but the real thing would be cool. I am sure if I did it there would be customers questioning this and if there is a web site that has a disclaimer that I might be able to add to the box would even be better. Thinking out loud here. Just been doing some web searching and I guess I found my answer, it is illegal to deface any money coin or paper. so I will have to resort to printing paper

I have a couple puzzle patterns I want to make this year and was wondering what is the best blade for these. They are small puzzles and not kid puzzles. What makes one blade better than say a #2 FD silver reverse?? Thanks. Never cut a puzzle pattern.

as with everyone else I use blue painters tape but the tape needs to be fresh and not years old. I then spray pattern and cut making sure the glue is dry before drilling. If I get to a delicate situation I will use a pencil with an eraser to guide the piece so that I can get close to the blade without my fingers getting in the way. This is the spray adhesive I have been using for years.http://www.staples.com/Krylon-Super-Quick-Grip-Spray-Adhesive-11-oz/product_301433?cid=PS:BingPLAs:301433&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=301433&KPID=301433&cvosrc=PLA.bing-SALES.Office Suppli

This looks good. All sound advice too. Thanks for sharing. A nice backerboard will strengthen any delicate areas and give it some depth too. Thanks for showing.

If you are quoting me Kevin I never checked any numbers just saw all the different saw types that delta ever made. I looked at his no. and blade holder and it says obsolete. So disregard my link. but it is a great one if you ever need part diagrams for any delta saws. http://www.toolpartsdirect.com/delta-40-150-15-quot-scroll-saw.html

Some one here just shown a few not that long ago. There are patterns out there. I have seen them before.