JTTHECLOCKMAN

Do you supply the first battery?? I just place bubble wrap around the clock. Years ago I got that large bubblewrap off a job site and had a good supply of it. Wrap most my shipments in it. Works well for me.

The price made me buy them. My 226 came about because I needed a larger saw than the 220 for the projects such as my mirrors and shelves I was making at the time. Now it is my backup. The Dewalt fell in my lap so to speak. Would never had bought it but deals a deal. The Hegner was a deal I could not pass up at a woodworking show. and had that before the RBIs . Have that now for my angle cutting. Had a dremel before that but sold that for a few $$$. Please do not ask how many routers I have. Lost count for sure.

As others have said if using tape under a pattern the longer you leave it on the harder it can be to take off. Being I do not scroll like I once did I now take one project on at a time. I also turn pens and other things so I have other projects going. But if I were scrolling a piece now it is from start to finish. Now if you are into production work then an assembly line mentality is a good idea. Good luck and have fun.

Ray try running without the foot switch and see if it still does that. If possible a complete blowing out of the switch and parts could not hurt. Look for the easy things first. Make sure all plugs are plugged in properly. If you are using anything else on that circuit while saw is running, shut it off and run the saw and observe.

So is scrolling.

I hesitate to answer. Are you using a foot switch?? Does this happen all the time?? Slow speed will increase hesitation but it should not hesitate again after running unless power was dipped or power interruption. If you can live with it leave it alone. If not then call the boys at Hegner.

Nascar talk about a sport that is boring watching people go in circles wasting gas Everyone hopes they make right turn one of those laps.

hear what you are saying and if it makes you happy make whatever suits your needs. For me I have way too many things to do than to work on something I can purchase relatively cheap. I gave you the answer for the large hole and again if it means anything in your design. Good luck and show a photo of the finished product.

I too use a bar stool and what I did is place a board across the bottom rails and lay the foot switch on that. My foot is now at a comfortable height.

Not sure what you are asking but I never found that holder to be any problems and I have used fine 2/0 jewelers blades and also #12 blades in them. I would not make them, just order a bunch. Not worth the effort in my opinion. Why mess with success. Besides it needs to be large because of the arc of the hole. To center the blade you may need to be off center of the hole so now that hole has shrunk if you are following what I am saying.

I always did and always use the dead man switch. I sit when scrolling. Rarely will I stand unless I am scrolling a huge project and then the center portion of my body which has many more layers of clothing on seems to get in the way. But still the dead man switch works for me. After awhile you do not think of it. Want to stop just take the foot off and if you need to just bump the saw no need to push on and off.

I was going to reply here but Randy summed it up well and saved me alot of typing. I do own a Hegner, 2 Rbis and a Dewalt and my go to saws are always the RBI saws. All very good saws.To me the RBI is the easiest to use and built like a tank.

You showed 2 different styled scrolling patterns. The first is block scrolling. No fret work. Usually used for puzzles, toys and other basic scrolling needs. The second is fret scrolling and it has the cutouts throughout the pattern. Most popular. Then there is the combination of simple fret work in block scrolling. As far as telling what to cut out, just stand back and look at the pattern. After awhile it comes to you what you want when all said and done. The second pattern you of course want the dolfin left and not the tiny pieces. The first one you want to hold the duck and not the out line of the duck. Now there are cases that you may want the outline so again it depends on what you want to hold when done cutting.

I really have no answer for this question. I have 2 locations for lumber. One is I built shelves on a wall in my utility room and it stores all types of wood. My overflow is stored next to the pool table that gets no use any more. Smalls are stored in the shop. there is no filing system. I can pretty much look at a piece of wood and know what it is. I work with many domestic and also many exotics. I use to hoard wood because I got much of it on sale from my local hardwood dealer. Now that he had a fire in his warehouse he has gotten out of the business so not much hoarding any more. But do have plenty of stock left. Domestics I buy as needed from another local dealer. This is the mahagonys, walnuts, oaks, and maples. I always keep some on hand. Again stored in one of 2 places and that is a crap shoot. I use to save my small cutoff pieces and tried selling when I had a couple barrels full. Could not even give it away. People did not want it even for fireplace because it has exotic woods in it too. So I just throw away now and do not look back. I am fortunate to have a shop full of big boys toys so I can buy lumber in the rough and mill it to whatever dimensions I need. Cheaper to buy this way. I make so many different products so my ability to do this is an advantage. I could not tell you how much wood I have gone through over the years but many of BF have run through my tools. Having slowed way down now this too has slowed. Everyone is different and everyone's $$$means are different. But my suggestion do not get into the habbit of saving every scrap piec hoping for a project to use it on. Never happens and you clutter the shop. Toss it or burn it or give it away but get it out of the shop and keep things moving. Good luck.

I too buy from Klingspor but buy from other places as well. I have bought tons of sandpaper from http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com these are always my go to people. I like the Mirka brand paper. I always buy belts when I go to woodworking show because these guys are there and they have show sales. http://www.ptreeusa.com/abrasive_index.html Not all sandpaper is the same and when working with wood other than scrolling you find this out. One word about ordering belts for sanders they do dry out and the glue joint fails so do not overstock. Not worth the effort and money in a long run.

You are off and running. I too suggest you increase speed and not slow the speed. I also suggest dropping down to a smaller blade. I use a #5 in just about all my cutting. Will change when I need to but for the most part #5 reverse. As Mentioned circles and arcs are something you will get better at because you will start to see where you need to pivot your left hand. I find cutting circles easier going counterclockwise. Just keep practicing and pay attention as to what you are seeing and how things feel when cutting. You do not want to over push the wood. Let the blade do the cutting and you do not want sideward pressure. As Far as sanding, with a good blade and good cutting technique no sander needed. Good luck and remember to relax and do not tense up when cutting.

My experience it cuts similar to oak. Red oak not white oak.

What is the finish on this piece that you were able to make it and send the same day?? I do not think I would have caught the mistake because not everyday I spell that car's name. Chevy truck I got

Lots of people use those and other figured grained wooden cutting boards for pen blanks. Turns nicely too.

I would skip the portraits and just do names and make some sort of frame that has a baseball theme with Hall of fame somewhere in it. If possible and this would be tough to have one of their baseball cards next to the name. I made some wall plaques for my nephews a long time ago when they were in little league. I do not have photos on my computer but if I can find the hard copy photos maybe I can scan them. But I made it with a scrolled baseball player and put a place for a real baseball. I then had a what looked like the scoreboard with their names scrolled in it. Also there was a place to put their baseball cards. ( they all got their own baseball cards back then.) So many more details you can add to make it look cool. Cut baseballs in half and place around the plaque. Incorporate a home plate in there and maybe make into the shape of a baseball diamond as you place the names. It will take up some wall space but alot less than portraits that people will probably not recognize anyway. Good luck.

Is that cherry wood. I love working with cherry wood. I would (not sure if you glue your bases on, I always screw them on so that fixes can be made easier) scroll the name out and infill with some maple with the proper name. Make it thinner so that there is a reveal around it. There is always a fix and would not take much effort unless the base is glued to the clock. Made a name plate for a lady once. Got the order through one of my consignment stores. They spelled the ladies name wrong. She comes to pick it up and refused it so lost revenue there and she did not reorder. That is one problem working with consignment stores no contact between customer and you.

I never did have a problem right from the start. Just a matter of getting the techniques down so that you relax when cutting. Being tensed up means alot when cutting and the ease. I sold the very first piece I made. I will say this it took a little time to learn the tricks of pushing the wood, types of wood cut differently, blades cut differently, saw speed has meaning and as mentioned each saw has its own little quirks that you learn as you go. It is a learning process but is quickly picked up. I will say this also yes we are our own worse critics so do not be so hard on yourself. Also some people for the lack of better words have the shakes and it cause runoff when cutting and probably never will be correctable. But do not let that deter from this great hobby. After about 5 or 6 projects it is time to step up to some better materials and put those experiences to work. Work at your own pace but you will notice the faster you start cutting the better your mind lets you stay on the lines and the cuts get smoother. The eye works in conjunction with the hands. Hand/ eye coordination. Good luck and start posting.

I was watching This Old House yesterday and they touched on a subject that came up here not long ago in this thread. I had mentioned the health hazards to cutting stone, brick and other materials. In this segment they showed some new tools hitting the market made by Bosch. It is a vac attachment to their drills that drill masonry work and also for cutting concrete. They mentioned the hazardous dust that has been a huge problem in the industry. As I said I saw this everyday on the job sites being in construction. Everything from fire retardant being sprayed on steel beams to routing sheetrock for our electrical boxes, to drilling and cutting masonary. The ceiling tiles being layed in and cut with the fiberglass in them all hazards. I bring this back up because the attachments used on these drill may or at least looks like they may be used on a scrollsaw with some imagination. I do not have any direct links but if you look up Bosch drill attachments you may find them. I have never seen these before so maybe tool companies are now starting to pay more attention to dust control. Here is a link http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bosch+vacuum+attachment&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=77996631808024&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2skpsdxdmm_e

Todays batteries and chargers are many steps ahead of what they were when battery operated tools first came out. I had an old Milwaukee 7.2 volt drill with a keyed chuck that would keep drilling but the battery life was not long. Sold it for $20. Today they run lawn equipment with batteries.

A couple others I have used are stained glass such as the blue in the Twin Towers project and also colored mirror (plastic) in the rose projects. I use fancy plastic in the oval crosses, used felt on the Blessed Mary. You can use anything. Sorry I do not have a photo of the colored mirror roses because of Photobucket. Guess we can not access our old gallery photos here as well so again sorry.