JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thank you that will help and I will give it a read. He was the king of the puzzles for sure.

Sorry I do not even look at them or anyone elses. You can have mine too if you want

I have cut multiple projects with the same blade on My Hawk with no problem. I cut red oak and walnut and mahogany mostly. Many times I change blades for the sake of changing. Not that they stopped cutting. I use a FD #5 silver reverse blade as my go to blade. I have many different blades because I use to test blades for Mike Moorloch but I also use Jeweler's blades too so that adds to the total easily. A blade is dull when it is not easy to cut with any more. The blade is the cheapest part of what we do so just buy many and use whenever you need to and do not look back. You will spend more on the electricity to run the saw than th blades.

Looking for suggestions for a nice soft smooth mop sander that can be used on thin delicate work but also be able to knock of flat edges and round or smooth them out. I have some older cheaper versions but hey are too hard and will break the pieces. Or if not a mop sander then something else I am listening. Thanks again.

OK I plan on doing a couple puzzles this year as I mentioned a few posts ago. My questions are as follows. For those that do puzzles that require placing photos or other paper on the wood and scrolling it to make a picture puzzle what type glue do you use to adhere it and has it held up well over the years?? I was thinking 3M77. Also again with picture puzzles what do you find is a good top coat to protect the picture?? Again I was thinking a satin watco lacquer. Last question is The only type puzzles I will be doing will be picture puzzles and I will be using BB plywood. Do you seal the wood in anyway after you cut the puzzle? Do you top coat the picture before you cut or after you cut in order to seal the ends of the cut pieces too?? Or do you top coat and then dip pieces in something after you cut them?? Basically asking your procedure if you make picture puzzles. I wish I had saved some of Carters tips when he use to explain his Christmas card puzzles. Thanks. This is something new to me that I want to add to inventory.

Why would you want to make out of wood?? If you want to just copy what you have and have at it. Pretty self explanatory and no pattern needed. If you are a woodworker and have the tools you should be able to make that. The latch maybe the tricky part. Go to Home Depot and take some photos. I bet they have something close.

I have to say either you are the unluckiest person with a saw or you just are hard on them. I know you saw alot but I bet I have sawn just as much as you over the years with the amount of projects I did. I started back around 1973 I started with a Dremel 2 speed and sold it when it was still working. I moved up to a Hegner 18" and then bought a RBI 220 and added a 226 and a Dewalt 788 (hardly ever use the Dewalt because of that stupid arm not staying up) basically fell into my lap but my go to and main saws have been my RBI saw and have scrolled the most projects on them. They are still running and never did any maintenance on them except for a worn out front tension lever on both. Never oiled anything lubed anything and they still are cutting like brand new. When do you need to get the message to realize Dewalt is just a mid saw player and move up to a real saw that will last. I hate putting it that way but 2 dozen saws you could have owned a few RBI saws. This summer my saws will be put through a very heavy work load because I am changing up inventory and I will be using mainly the 220 but will need the 226 for my mirrors and golfball racks. I have confidence they will do anything I throw at them. I cut all hardwoods and mainly oak. 2 dozen saws, man I would quit long time ago.

Take the guess work out of things and cut the molding upside down. Work from the back. As mentioned make the basic 2 cuts to form the first angle. Lay your project in and now mark the opposite inside edges on the back of the molding. I like to make a witness mark showing the angle of cut. Lay on chop saw or table saw and you can not go wrong if the jig or fence alignment is spot on. Cut both lengths equal using a stop block.

Sorry Len not talking about this site. I mean scrolling in general. I will correct that.

Sorry if there is any confusion, I am not talking about this site, I am talking scrolling in general. As the title says. Like to hear the stories of how did you get here?? What was the deciding factor to make you do what you are doing in the scrolling world?? Was there one particular person, event, project you saw, craft show you visited, got hit in the head with a piece of wood. What made you get behind a very boring, time consuming, labor intensive, slow cutting, piece of equipment such as a scrollsaw? When you did, what were your expectations and have you reached the goals you set out when you first started this journey?? Did you plan on making money, just take up a hobby, or glutton for punishment and you enjoy that. Do you feel you have improved much over the time you have been at it. Are you proud and happy when someone offers you money for your work?? Are you having as much fun as when you started and is this something you plan on continuing?? Did scrolling lead you into other areas or hobbies such as collecting tools?? I hope you take some time and read the different parts of the questions and answer truthfully and lets see where we go as we travel this journey together. Maybe we can learn a little more about each other. I will put my replys off so that this is just the question post. Lets have some fun.

Some plastics can break down with finishes that have minerals spirits and other mixtures. Waterbase no so much.

The very first thing I do with those cans is cut that plastic ring off. When a can of Danish oil gets gummed up I usually have other cans of mineral spirits or acetone that I empty and just save the caps. Those cans at HD do come with lids and can get in quart or gallon. I will usually put left over room paints in them and label. When I pour danish oil back in can I use a funnel designated for this. I am constantly pouring in and out of those cans. I love my Watco Danish oil. When Home Depot stopped carrying it and Watco stopped making it I was a maniac going from Homer to Homer buying up all I could and I still have some left which I am guessing maybe 25 years ago. The new stuff when they got so many people screaming for it and brought it back on line they changed the formula to meet certain guide lines and it is not quite the same but still good stuff.

Home Depot sells metal quart cans and I use those if I need to break something down or just need a smaller container.

That came out real nice and I am sure he will treasure it. I plan on making a few of this type and add them into my inventory this year. Thanks for showing and also Thank your Son for his service too.

I would think long and hard about the suggestion of spraying the wood. I mean sincerely. Those that do it may have good luck but what you are doing is getting glue in the grain of the wood and yes you can wipe with MS but now you are transferring that glue to the edges of the fret cutouts and that can cause problems. I would try heat gun or as I said a lighter tack tape. Not a fan of spraying the wood. Sealing the wood ahead of time can help too. But good luck and hope you figure it out.

Sanding sealer should help some. What is happening is the use of plywood and the small pieces left after cutting the frets is weak. Would not get that with solid woods. You can also try switching to purple painter tape or for even less tackiness the green but be warned the tack is far less than blue and may start to peel when cutting. I know nothing about shelf paper but it too has adhesive that can do what is happening to you.

Never would I use wood that nice for a cutting board. Too many other projects that would look nice on. Not a fan of using oily woods for cutting boards either. Contaminate foods and no way to seal them. That is why Maple is used alot. This is just me and my opinion. Nice work on the cutting though. Make a nice clock.

Many on craigs list all the time but I have seen Dewalts for $450 with light and stand many times before also. Of course never when you are looking for them.

It could be possible that shelf paper has something different in it and may change brand to brand. But also I notice if I do not finish a project I will always place a weight on top of some sort so that there is no warping till I get a finish on it and I have no idea sometimes when I will get back to the project. This can have a negative effect on the tape also making it harder to get off. I found a few years ago at a garage sale there was a painter selling tons of his left over stuff because he retired and was moving. I bought more blue tape than I can ever use in a lifetime so that is what I will be using forever. Bought a bunch of good quality brushes and scrapers and tons of razor blades and tarps and anything else associated with painters. He wanted to sell and I was willing to buy.

This is an issue and I believe I had mentioned this in another thread about tapes but the longer you leave tape on a project the tougher it can become to get off. I have seen it before with blue painters tape and others.

I do the same as this and use flat blades because that is all I need. If I need the veining to be wider I just use the blade as a plane and widen it. Usually veining is not straight lines but they can be so just need to take your time.

Can use some PVC pipe too. Buy some end caps. Use a painting code system or just put labels on them.

Very nicely done. I have one of Wilkens patterns and it is a mailbox clock pattern. I have not made it but it is on the list. http://www.wilckenswoodworking.net/images/patterns/clocks_mini/0084_big.jpg

I just can not see that being walnut and if so the closest that I know is Wattle black and not easy wood to get. There are about 5 or 6 varieties of walnut but black walnut is the American choice. Just need to clarify some points in this post. Kiln dried wood does not darken at all. Just dries wood faster that air dried. What people and manufacturers will do is take walnut wood that has alot of sap wood in the board and because walnut is expensive they will "STEAM" it to change color of the sap wood and darken it some. But what it does is wash out the heartwood and make the entire board look close to the same. If you let walnut air dry over time the heartwood becomes a very deep and rich color and the sap wood will darken also. Air dried lumber will be darker than doctored lumber. But people are in a rush so the steam and then kiln dry. I prefer air dried walnut any day. Yes walnut can have streaks of color running through it and you see reds alot. As far as that project all I see is the nose can surely be walnut but the ears and rest are a different wood if there was no staining involved.

Is it the lighter wood?? did you put any finish on it to change color. Never will be able to tell just from grain.