JTTHECLOCKMAN

WHAT???

I cut with razor knife.

If I have a blade that still has life left in it I do as Kevin does, have a bunch of extra clamps and just leave in a clamp and place it in the package the blade came in. I use very limited amount different sized blades so no problem storing them. I always keep blades in package they came in. just nip corner off top and take out blades as need be.

Ray when milling your own lumber there is more to it than just running through a planner. From what you said I believe you have a Delta lunch box type planner as they are called. Not sure if it is a newer model or an older model. Weather the roller blades ride on a 2 post system or a 4 post system. But they all produce snipe of some sort. This is where the drum sander comes into play (you can plane close to desired dimension and sand the rest of the way thus eliminating snipe marks)or you can just cut the ends of the board to rid the snipe marks. The proper way to plane a board down is to alternate the sides when planning. In other words take the same amount off both sides of the board and this goes for using a drum sander. If you take all material off one side you released the stress within the board and it will warp toward that side. If you take off material from both sides of the board you balance the stress levels. All wood has internal stress. Now to address the snipe situation you need to have the board remain level going into the planer as well as coming out at all times. Any dipping when entering or leaving will make the snipe marks more pronounced. Most planers come with attachable table extensions. When used they must be level with the planer bed. Some are add ons and some are just fold out. Now sometimes this is not long enough when doing long boards so some other platform is needed to support both sides of the board. Can be a set of roller helpers or even a box set at exact level with planer bed. As mentioned by others, grain direction is important. You want to plane with the grain and not against it or you will have tear out. You want to take lite passes and not try to hog off too much. Yes you can plane to 1/4" without much problem. I will say this that is alot of wasted material. If you had a bandsaw capable to resaw your boards that is what I would do. You then can get 2 boards out of a 3/4" thick board and much less work on the planner. Good luck.

OK I will tell you but now I will have to send my people out your way It probably is one of the best kept secret web sites for craft parts. I do not see it mentioned much. www.NationalArtcraft.com I also visit the craft stores by me such as AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, and Michaels get lots of ideas by just walking around there at times. Thanks for the kind words too.

I use to just throw them out. But recently I started throwing them in a container because I also make pens I tried using the old blades for casting into a pen blank and came up with something like this. Hopefully I will at some time make some more and with different ideas but so many irons in the fire.

There really is no reason for VS on a jointer. It is a sales ploy and is found on table top models. The idea is to match speeds with material you are jointing or planing. You now see planners with 2 speeds and this is for harder materials to slow the speed down so it does not burn the wood. In a jointer if you are using plastics it maybe a good idea to slow the speed down. To me the correct answer would be to accommodate different materials is to take less material off in a pass. The speed control on a jointer is not the same as a router. It will only control speeds from half the full motor rated speed. I suggest Kevin eliminate the speed control and run full out. Very easy to do just bypass the board and wire motor direct. Surprised the motor company did not suggest that to you especially on a small jointer like that.Maybe looking for a sale and is not really an up front company. Every tool in the shop can hurt but every tool in a shop does specific things and if you learn to use them properly and learn safety they are there to help make the hobby more enjoyable. You need to respect each tool but not be fearful of them. kevin keeps making a comment about kickbacks on a tablesaw, there are only a few things that can cause them and they all have to do with contact with the back of the blade. Fence not parallel to blade or slightly opened, splitter not being used and wood gets pinched when being cut , wood comes away from the fence as you advance it through the blade, or short pieces getting trapped and launched. all can be avoided but again attention to what you are doing and knowing the hazards before you operate any tool. Pieces can be launched from the front of the blade also but this cause is because they are small and a zero clearance plate is not used to prevent the pieces from falling into the saws kerf when being cut. I have said this before, to me the most overlooked tool is the router and its potential dangers. This tool can hurt by launching pieces and also grabbing you in if feed direction is wrong. Also open bit spinning at high rate of speed and many times people do not slow the router down to match bit size and potential dangers there. be safe out there.

Kevin you need one of these. You won't get hurt. http://static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/0/700199_xl.jpg

You can use many combination of woods. Here are some keepsake boxes I make that have that same design but smaller for jewelry and rings and things and also some desk clocks that have that design of stacking rings. I mix and match many woods and I finish in my Danish oil dipping.

Thank you Ray. I can see why you got good reviews on this. That came out real nice. The two woods had enough color variation to make it pop. Whenever a finish is put on raw wood it really brings it to life. You did a good job on this for sure and thanks for showing here. Those are fun and easy projects because you can stack cut a few pieces at a time. I will caution you though, use a good quality glue and do not be skimpy. Glue before finishing too. So my point is be careful if you plan on staining layers before gluing. Basically the strength to those are the nibs. I can see why others will want these. Make a nice candy dish or place for some flowers. Now get to work and keep up the good work.

If you have a tablesaw run the edges on that. You will get just as good an edge if you have decent saw.

Bring it here. this is where the topic started.

Lets see it.

I will try to find it. It has been a long time since that topic came up but I do remember it being a problem.

My very strong opinion stay far away from table top jointers. Not worth the money. If you have no room for a floor model than you have been warned and good luck. You will ask me why I am sure. They are unstable, which makes them dangerous. Limited on length for accurate jointing. Motors under rated for cuts other than very shallow, not easy to dial in for accuracy. Just a few things I have seen with them. Good luck.

This was another problem back with the early Dewalts. I am trying to remember the fix but I think if you check Rick Hutchenson's site he has it listed. Again all these type saws are clones so the fix for one should apply to all.

It is most definitely worth the effort to fix if needed. As I said back when the Type #1 saws first came out, that was one problem, another was the table was off center for the blade hole and some people did some redrilling and some just enlarged the hole. Also the knocking problem was a huge thing. That is why Rick Hutchenson has a huge write-up. Back then he was one of the first people to start playing around with fixes for this saw. When they moved out of Canada these problems got even worse. As Bill mentioned it can have a huge effect if stack cutting or doing puzzles because the pieces will not fall out both ways. But as i mentioned the blade must be fully put into blade clamps the same way all the time. With the Dewalt and sure other saws it is possible to not fully push the blade all the way back and still catch the thumb screw.

I do not see why the Dewalt saw would be left off because those saws you listed all use the same head design. They are all basic clones of each other. As far as the Hawk I see no reason to want to use them because the Hawk is probably the easiest clamping system available and most reliable for constant blade use. It goes into clamp only one way and no adjusting needed when set up properly and ease of change. Buy several clamps and can preload for even faster change over. Just my opinion.

No saw on the market today has a true up and down motion. There are some old version saws that did this. It is the nature of the parallel arms to rock back and forth. The Dewalt as well as a few other saws have the close parallel arms and other saws such as the Hawk have the longer ones. neither one is better than the other just that they operate differently. What you want is the distance at the top of the stroke to be the same as the bottom of the stroke when measuring from the center of the stroke. Now you have to keep in mind that the blade must sit in the clamps the same at all times in order to be a true measurement. The video shown was one way this was accomplished. Another way was to shim the table. That was the first way developed by scrollers when Dewalt first came out with the 788. It was known for that problem in their Type #1 saws. What I did was took a machinist square and layed it flat against the back of the blade. I manually moved the arm up and down measuring the distance at top stroke and down stroke. I then figured out weather I needed to lift the back of the table or the front of the table to accommodate for the error. I then need to make a shim to correct error. It may have taken a few tries to get dead on but was able to do this. In this process you need to enlarge a couple screws holes also. It worked for ma and many others back then. I guess it basically is doing the same thing either way. I included a photo of my fix.

Forget staining it. Use a tung oil and let dry and then top coat with shellac. So it is food safe and it is what it is. This is my suggestion. That is all I have for you.

I have noticed many times when I have a look on Pinterest that there are many of my projects that I have done over the years. How do they get there?? I am guessing through sites I have visited and shared for people on the forums there such as this one. This data is gathered and placed on that platform. Would have no way in the world to know how many times some of my patterns or ideas have been copied and used for profit.

I would not lock yourself into a strict 10" sander such as the Grizzly. If you go that small I would look at an open ended sander so you can sand 20". Called a 10/20 sander from Jet or Wen. The Jet gets my vote over any Wen tool. Just a thought.

Sorry did I miss something?? Kevin has been showing us cutting boards that i think he wants to do and was looking for methods to plane them smooth. Or at least that is what I think he was asking. If asking about edge joining no better tool than a jointer but it can be done on a tablesaw with a good quality blade and also a router table set up done 2 different ways. Sorry if I misunderstood.

Kevin, as with any tool used to flatten a board requires reference point that are true an accurate. Tough to flatten a board through a planer because the board will follow the bend as it goes through. Same for a sander or a jointer. But once you get one side flat the rest is easy and any tool can be used. Here is a link that shows a router in use to do what you probably are thinking of. A larger router such as a 2-1/2hp router would be good for stability and use of larger bits. One with variable speed is good. Today most router or at least the better ones have soft start features which I like alot. If doing this you need a sled. You need to secure the work piece. You need to remove small amounts. You need to be aware of the different grains and possible tearout. Your sled needs to be able to slide on accurate rail system. Having a workbench with a dog system built in is a real plus. Many people flatten boards with planing planes (larger than a hand plane) Whatever method sanding is still the number one thing that will make or break your efforts. Good luck. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/simple-router-planing-jig-48327/