JTTHECLOCKMAN

Bring it here. this is where the topic started.

Lets see it.

I will try to find it. It has been a long time since that topic came up but I do remember it being a problem.

My very strong opinion stay far away from table top jointers. Not worth the money. If you have no room for a floor model than you have been warned and good luck. You will ask me why I am sure. They are unstable, which makes them dangerous. Limited on length for accurate jointing. Motors under rated for cuts other than very shallow, not easy to dial in for accuracy. Just a few things I have seen with them. Good luck.

This was another problem back with the early Dewalts. I am trying to remember the fix but I think if you check Rick Hutchenson's site he has it listed. Again all these type saws are clones so the fix for one should apply to all.

It is most definitely worth the effort to fix if needed. As I said back when the Type #1 saws first came out, that was one problem, another was the table was off center for the blade hole and some people did some redrilling and some just enlarged the hole. Also the knocking problem was a huge thing. That is why Rick Hutchenson has a huge write-up. Back then he was one of the first people to start playing around with fixes for this saw. When they moved out of Canada these problems got even worse. As Bill mentioned it can have a huge effect if stack cutting or doing puzzles because the pieces will not fall out both ways. But as i mentioned the blade must be fully put into blade clamps the same way all the time. With the Dewalt and sure other saws it is possible to not fully push the blade all the way back and still catch the thumb screw.

I do not see why the Dewalt saw would be left off because those saws you listed all use the same head design. They are all basic clones of each other. As far as the Hawk I see no reason to want to use them because the Hawk is probably the easiest clamping system available and most reliable for constant blade use. It goes into clamp only one way and no adjusting needed when set up properly and ease of change. Buy several clamps and can preload for even faster change over. Just my opinion.

No saw on the market today has a true up and down motion. There are some old version saws that did this. It is the nature of the parallel arms to rock back and forth. The Dewalt as well as a few other saws have the close parallel arms and other saws such as the Hawk have the longer ones. neither one is better than the other just that they operate differently. What you want is the distance at the top of the stroke to be the same as the bottom of the stroke when measuring from the center of the stroke. Now you have to keep in mind that the blade must sit in the clamps the same at all times in order to be a true measurement. The video shown was one way this was accomplished. Another way was to shim the table. That was the first way developed by scrollers when Dewalt first came out with the 788. It was known for that problem in their Type #1 saws. What I did was took a machinist square and layed it flat against the back of the blade. I manually moved the arm up and down measuring the distance at top stroke and down stroke. I then figured out weather I needed to lift the back of the table or the front of the table to accommodate for the error. I then need to make a shim to correct error. It may have taken a few tries to get dead on but was able to do this. In this process you need to enlarge a couple screws holes also. It worked for ma and many others back then. I guess it basically is doing the same thing either way. I included a photo of my fix.

Forget staining it. Use a tung oil and let dry and then top coat with shellac. So it is food safe and it is what it is. This is my suggestion. That is all I have for you.

I have noticed many times when I have a look on Pinterest that there are many of my projects that I have done over the years. How do they get there?? I am guessing through sites I have visited and shared for people on the forums there such as this one. This data is gathered and placed on that platform. Would have no way in the world to know how many times some of my patterns or ideas have been copied and used for profit.

I would not lock yourself into a strict 10" sander such as the Grizzly. If you go that small I would look at an open ended sander so you can sand 20". Called a 10/20 sander from Jet or Wen. The Jet gets my vote over any Wen tool. Just a thought.

Sorry did I miss something?? Kevin has been showing us cutting boards that i think he wants to do and was looking for methods to plane them smooth. Or at least that is what I think he was asking. If asking about edge joining no better tool than a jointer but it can be done on a tablesaw with a good quality blade and also a router table set up done 2 different ways. Sorry if I misunderstood.

Kevin, as with any tool used to flatten a board requires reference point that are true an accurate. Tough to flatten a board through a planer because the board will follow the bend as it goes through. Same for a sander or a jointer. But once you get one side flat the rest is easy and any tool can be used. Here is a link that shows a router in use to do what you probably are thinking of. A larger router such as a 2-1/2hp router would be good for stability and use of larger bits. One with variable speed is good. Today most router or at least the better ones have soft start features which I like alot. If doing this you need a sled. You need to secure the work piece. You need to remove small amounts. You need to be aware of the different grains and possible tearout. Your sled needs to be able to slide on accurate rail system. Having a workbench with a dog system built in is a real plus. Many people flatten boards with planing planes (larger than a hand plane) Whatever method sanding is still the number one thing that will make or break your efforts. Good luck. http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/simple-router-planing-jig-48327/

Thanks Jeff. I made a few pieces over the years that were one of a kinds and I will never duplicate again. The cross for my Mom is one because of the added saying on the back and I also made a Yankee watch for my Dad who was a huge Yankee fan and got me interested and has become my favorite team. Had it engraved too. I never really show these off but the topic brought back memories.

One other little trick I have been using for some time now and works well. I hardly ever adjust that tension rod in the back. In fact I can't remember the last time I did. I have mentioned here many times my go to blade is a FD silver reverse #5 and I have have both my rbi saws set up for that blade with tension. When I change blades they are usually longer than this blade. So instead of resetting to accept the blade I just shorten it so that it fits nicely in the holder. The tension is never too tight unless when using jewelers blades. Those things are very finicky and all bets are off. Many times I will switch to the Dewalt when using them because easier to set tension without all that adjusting. Hope things continue to work out for you Les.

If it is a 60mm insert it fits in a 55mm hole or 2-1/8" If it is a 55mm insert then it fits in a 50mm hole or 2" hole

Les I own 2 hawks and in my opinion there is no way you could ever bend a blade from tightening too much with a RBI blade holder. Can not be done. If the setscrew was too far in from vibration then the blade would have a dimple in it and the blade would not be centered in the clamp and traveling true up and down. So you need to check that adjustment from time to time. Sometimes it is harder to explain than what it is but will try. I am going to believe you have a quick release on the top arm. When you pull that arm down, the top of the blade should fall nicely into that blade holder with the top of the blade hitting the bottom of the rod that is just above the thumbscrew. The back of the blade should lay flat against the back of the clamp (thus the reason you can not ever bend a blade like that with those clamps) While holding that there tighten the thumbscrew. It is a dance that becomes so second nature and is so easy to do. Now to the reason possibly you are bending is because when you place the blade in the holder it is rocking backwards and the back of the blade does not sit flat against the blade holder. Or you are pulling it too far forward when you insert the blade. In other words the holder is placing the blade on an angle that is not straight up and down and when it starts to cut it now moves back into the straight up and down position thus bending the blade which would explain how or why that far down on the blade it is bending. You need to keep that holder pretty close to straight up and down when inserting blade. Second thing or suggestion is you are leaving too much blade stick up into the clamp and it is past that roller bearing on top of the thumbscrew. That bearing is the highest your blade can go or should go. If you go in front of that and then push the blade with force to get back to tighten the thumbscrew you now bent the top of the blade as you shown. Now if this stuff is just happening you got out of your routine and or there is something else going on. Make sure both clamps pivot freely when a blade is installed so they can rock with the motion of the arms going up and down. Yes it is a good idea to keep the thumbscrew and setscrew cleaned and roughed up abit. I always clean the ends of the blades on both sides with sandpaper before using. Takes off the oil that comes on blades from manufacturing and gives a little tooth so that the thumbscrew does not slip when tightened. Then I do not have to crank so hard on it. If none of this works then report back and we try something else.

I believe a drum sander would be a better option than a jointer or a planer. With a good table saw you get dimensions close and then clean up with sander. I have a Performax 16/32 and it is a work horse for me. Could not do without for all projects.

Never oiled any of my saws.

I believe the letters are an overlay.

I made the top larger that the table to accommodate larger projects. I make alot of mirror that are unstable on the supplied table.

I have a clear acrylic extended top on my tables and I do not have to wax it at all. Just keep the dust off now and then. It gives me just enough resistance that the wood does not slide around too easily. Gives me better control. That is the way I like to cut.

I have not cut any projects that are hard sort of speak. Have cut projects that are much more time consuming but basically it still cutting. Now I have cut 2 projects that were very hard mentally and had a very hard time getting through because of the nature of what they represented. I posted this before here but is a cross I cut for my Dad's grave that stood till we were able to get a permanent grave stone. Because of the time of the year it stood for almost a year but was comforting for the family when they visited his grave site. The second was a cross I had made for my Mom and when she passed I placed it in with her when she went to her eternal home. I knew when I cut that piece that was the intention all along. 2 of the most difficult pieces I ever cut and probably ever will. I know this is not what the intent of this thread is but just hit me as I looked back.

I bought mine from Mikes as well. We too had a Mom and Pop hardware store that sold all number bits and use to buy from him but Home Depot put them out of business as they usually do. They were one of those places where you could find the most obscure item you were looking for. I miss them.