JTTHECLOCKMAN

If you try to ask the questions here I bet we all can help. Photos sometimes save alot of typing too. Just give us some info on the type of saw used and some info on the problem and also what type wood or material you are trying to scroll.

No on drum sander. Please. Not enough surface area to support the drum You will get dips in front and back. A large disc sander is perfect. A belt sander can work as well but I prefer the disc. A bandsaw can absolutely cut straight if tuned properly and a good blade is used.

Dave there are many ways to make a box and yours is very much acceptable. I believe you saw blade is not 90 degrees to the table and or not parrallel with your fence. need to check these. Most people when doing boxes the way you are actually use a bandsaw so that they cut the top all in one pass. When you keep flipping the box over to cut another side, if there is imperfections in the set-up they get multiplied. To smooth things out the best tool is a nice 12 inch disc sander

Kevin, basically if it has the word oil in it it is a penetrating finish which means it gets absorbed into the wood and dries and depending what is mixed with it can harden somewhat. These oils are made from various nuts, seeds and or plants. There are many and there are many different names for the products derived from them. If they are truely pure oils the dry time is greatly increased. Artificial driers are added to shorten this time. As I said add poly or varnish and now you crossed over to the surface finishes. But again with the amount of mixture will determine its state. That is why Danish oils fall in the middle along with tung oil. Now take the percentages up of polys, shellac, wax, varnish and such and these become strictly surface finishes along with lacquers. Then you get into waterbased and oil based. Broken down even further you get into brush-on, wipe-on, spray or combination. The use of all these finishes comes down to the application needed. Feel like wood, withstand elements both surrounding and environmental, ease of use, looks and color, time to dry. Remember when using oils the odor is a factor too and takes longer to dissipate than sealing in with a surface finish. Finishing is a whole world in itself

You may want to leave off the outer ring like the jewelry items. Still robust enough not to be too delicate.

this is just another concoction some backyard chemist tried. Weather you mix linseed oil or tung oil it still is Danish oil to the core because you added poly. As I said some people use varnish over poly and still called danish oil. Been going on for years. Deft and minwax add driers to the mix which aides is speeding the drying time and that can be important. With turners many times they rely on heat for drying because they spin their work and can hold a rag to it and the piece is usually solid. Scrollsaw work not so much.

As you can see finishing products can be both complicating and simple at the same time. Alot has to do with the formula used by each manufacturer and that is it. Blo does dry unless no driers were added and again the ratio can determine how fast. No it is not a film finish so no protection. Varnishes or polyurethane can be added which is what Danish oil basically is and when you add those ingredients it now can be classified as a film finish but there are always better ones such as pure polyurethane and pure varnish. There is a difference between varnish and poly but most times get interacted. These ingredients are added to create some of the products out there. Varnish has organic resins and poly has plastic resins (man made) Tung oil is different as I mentioned above. It all comes down to reading the labels on the cans and seeing what the ingredients are. You always can look up the MDS sheets on every product on the market. Mixing things to make your own concoction has been done fore years and some even claim secret recipes but that is hogwash. Just about every combination is on the market today and may go by different names. Some may add varnish while some add poly but call it Danish oil so you need to read the cans. Again finding a favorite is a matter of choice and testing for yourself. Take in consideration what the final look is to be as well as use of the item. If an item is going to sit on a wall then any product will work. If it is to be handled then something with a film finish is probably the best. With all this said always remember safety when working with products like this. Any oils can cause spontaneous combustion so do not store rags in a bunch but either air dry outside or dip in water. Also breathing these fumes is not a good idea and you should know how to protect yourself there.. Absorbing in skin is not a good idea either. Have fun.

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It can but being in the sunlight the temp swing is greater than the others. The woods probably will change colors also as time goes by unevenly.

I guess any of those will work. I have used the 2 wing ones for the length of my ownership and still like them.

Ray any acrylic enamel. Preferably spray if you can.

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You have cross grain situation. Top and bottom section the grain runs north and south and the shim are east to west. Wood movement over time will cause failures even in no sunlight. Especially so little glue surface. A flexible epoxy could probably help. Definetly not contact cement.

Well Les I am by far no expert but can give some insight. Not too sure what you are asking. Everyone develops over time what they feel is their best finish material weather it be sanding pads or sand paper and also the top coats such as Danish oil and BLO or tung oils. There are many of them on the market and each manufacturer has their own recipes. Many times it comes down to amounts of add on mixtures and nothing else. With that said the difference between tung oil and BLO is small but discernible. BLO is actually linseed oil and mineral spirits with driers and other catalysts that help dry the liquid. Never want to use pure linseed oil. It will take forever to dry They use to use that alot on telephone poles because it did not dry out. Tung oil is a mixture of varnish and mineral spirits and driers. But you can buy pure tung oil and that is a different horse. Need to read cans. Pure tung oil takes longer to dry. Both dry to a solid state with blo drying faster. The main difference is BLO is an oil that is more yellow thus making grains more pronounced as you have seen. But over time it will yellow even more so especially on woods like pine. Tung oil being a varnish will be lighter in color and yes it too will darken but not as much depending on manufacturers mixtures. Sometimes that is the differences in price and also the name can help there too. Tung oil dries slower and also requires sanding between each coat to get rid of roughness and will take more coats than blo to get the same finish. With blo sand first coat and none after that needed and use less coats. Now the advantage tung oil has over BLO is it is more water resistant than BLO if that is a concern. But not a film finish so do not use that way. All these finishes require warm temps to cure, not just dry. Same with Danish oil. Basically comes down to chose and that is why there are so many on the market. Think of tung oil like a polyurethane but with varnish instead so it will be somewhat harder finish but not by much. As I mentioned many times here I am a huge fan of Danish oil as my go to finish. I dip my projects and top coat with a Watco satin wax. I use Watco danish oil. Not sure if this answers your question and if not maybe you can put it a different way and I will see what I can do. Good luck.

Thanks for the photo and by the way very nice cuttings. Not knowing exactly how these are assembled and what part you are talking about I can make some assumptions. Correct me if I am wrong. From what I gather it is the walnut inserts that fell out. If this be the case I see that if they are not cut to the exact diameter of the next ring there are gaps where it gets glued. If they are glued only to the sides of that ring then the glue surface is small and is compromised because of gaps. Edge gluing is always weaker than face gluing and I can see where heat from sunlight can cause these weak joints to fail. Also two dissimilar woods with a smooth surface from the cutting action of the blade can compromise the glue from penetrating. Now if you are talking about the entire center coming lose of the background substrate then it can be a painted thing and wood glue and that is always a problem. Just some of my thoughts. Epoxy would help with the gap problem and allow more glue surface. Probably if I were doing these and ran into this problem I would try to work out some sort of alternate pattern design. I would add a dado the the ring that holds the walnut pieces so that they are glued to a flat surface and not just the edges, Harder to explain than it would be to do.

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This is a very valid point too. Sometimes when clamping pieces together we get too aggressive and that possibility can happen.

Those type glues are or can be affected by heat. But have to ask what was the project and was the actual glue lines exposed?? Just heating the wood is not causing it. It had to be in a hot temp area like a confined corner where no cool air circulates. You do not hear this often and I have to say the first I ever heard it. You can use hide glue, or construction adhesives such as Liquid Nails or PL 2000 Epoxy is also heat sensitive as well as contact cement. Now they sell high heat epoxies that can withstand extreme heat used in industries. That is a tough one.

Kevin the only scrollsaw related group I follow there is called Scroll saw and Woodworking I do understand what you are saying. I also do not like when some makes a post to show something it gets posted many times. Not sure why that happens but it happens alot. Annoying. Maybe that is what you are talking about. I just never paid attention to the group it comes from. On the pen turning sites everyone and their brothers is selling pen blanks they make or cut up. Too much for me. I do not stay long there.

Facebook is too hard to follow. Not like a forum like this. Alot more personal here if you ask me. Maybe good for selling supplies but not projects for sure. I go to a few pen turning ones and one minute a post is there and next you have to look for it. Not my cup of tea.

Many factors can cause that and grain direction is a big one and if the grain is a hard grain it will steer the blade.

Kevin instead of trying to copy and paste comments and give my answers I will try to explain a few things. Danish oil is mineral spirits, blo, poly and some driers mixed in. The key word in there is polyurethane. That is what makes it different from oil stains and every manufacturer has their own formulas. The Danish oil you are talking about has added stains to color it to the mixture but it still has poly in it. This is like a one step does all finish. stain and top coat all in one. With BLO it does not have poly so it has no film protection as well as most stains such as minwax line. This is why people say it needs to be top coated because it is a dull dried look. Yes it seals the wood but it is not protected from moistures such as water, alcohol and other things. If that cabinet was just stained, yes it is sealed but not protected from moisture which it will see. Even humidity is a moisture to reckon with. I can list a ton of manufacturers but just read the can as to the ingredients and it will tell you what is meant to be used as. I love Danish oil because it is a one step process and sometimes I will top coat. If I ever top coat I use lacquers. I have said many times here lacquer and poly do not play well together and they do not. But in the case of Danish oil if you only use one coat to seal the wood then there is not enough poly to cause adhesion problems providing you let dry and cure. If I do large projects and or many projects that require lacquer I will break out my compressor and use my HVLP gun and waterbase lacquer. If i am doing a small number of projects Deft is my go to lacquer.(or similar) Whenever I dip projects in Danish oil I never have to blow out frets. I let them drain to the side and wipe. If you are getting into doing faux woods made from poplar then there is an art to that but as I said grain pattern can not fool a knowledgeable person. I have people ask me many times what the wood is that they are interested and when I tell them if it is not some they know it goes right over their head. I will right down the woods used on the receipt when I make one out for them. It is more a reminder to me because a copy is kept by me. There are many products on the market that have more poly mixed in and are glossier and or more satin look. Just amounts used in mixture. Using dyes is another topic in it own. One other thing, the use of lacquer over poly is a choice because of ease of use, looks, and also environment the item is going to be used. Waterbased products over oil is another choice thing and both have their pluses and minuses.

I too have used dyes to color wood but you are doing something different when dying wood as oppose to staining it. I have used Rit dyes in alcohol but the thing to remember here is it is tough to even out the color if doing a large project because you can see the swipe marks when working with brush or even a rag. Wiping back over a dyed area makes that area darker. I have used this method on birdhouse ornaments but have dipped because they were small enough. If wanting to dye wood then I suggest using TransTint Dyes. Best on the market for depth of color and a little goes a long way.

Kevin I have used the different colored Watco danish oil stains and had good results or at least achieved what I set out to do. Have used med and dark walnut, cherry, fruitwood and a few others. I have also used minwax stains with good results. I have used them on oak and maple only, never poplar. Have done some pine too but that is always blotchy and do not like the look no matter what additive you use. They change the color of the wood which is what they are intended to do. Oils penetrate deeply and can be top coated without problems. Will say this whatever color you use only one coat is needed because with oil you can not deepen color with additional coats. The pigments lay in the grain and build to a point where they can not hold any more. If you start trying additional coats the stain does not dry and becomes a sticky mess. Thus flood the project and let soak and wipe dry and be done. Being I use oak so much I have also learned that if staining it is utmost important to keep wiping dry as the stain will continue to ooze out of the grain and could leave puddles of a sticky mess. Again the warning of disposal of rags is needed to be taken serious. The thing you have to keep in mind is that they color wood, not change texture of wood. In other words no stain is going to make a piece of pine or poplar and make it look like cherry or walnut. It will be able to get the color close to those woods but never exact because of the grain patterns and texture of woods. You wanting to replace the look and color of cherry with poplar will never happen. You are changing the natural look of a wood to imitate another. Now I suggest you give it a try and see for yourself and maybe this look is something you like and use and not treat it as an instead of wood but as an also wood. I use to offer many of my shelves, mirrors and clocks in different colors because people use to be big into darker furniture. Now today light is in so i stopped doing that but can custom make if need be. I never misrepresent wood types though. If cherry is wanted then cherry is what they get.

You are saying you had knee replacement and scrolling the same day!!!! That is not minor surgery. My brother had his done last year and was in pain for quite awhile with many sleepless nights. He is 57. Wish you luck.