JTTHECLOCKMAN

Kevin found it. Has to be the 32 ford coupe from that site/ Check it out. http://www.80artdesigns.com/Andy32FordCoupetn_.jpg

That is pretty cool. Another project has now appeared on my to do list. I have a ferris wheel plan that I have not done yet. I also have a merry-go-round plan but it is not like this one.

What type scrollsaw do you have. You are pushing the limits on alot of saws. Are you scrolling the cover only?? If so then you will need a spacer to accommodate the difference in height so you will be scrolling through 2" of material so the spacer should be something easily cut and no grain to it. Unless I am not understanding what you are doing.

yes that should not be that hard if you have details of what she is looking for. http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=rolling+pin+holder&FORM=HDRSC2

Not as clear and does not spray evenly as others. Something with their nozzles. Just my opinion. More known for their poly sprays.

Cabot and Watco are also very good lacquers. Ebay has them as well as Amazon. I do not like Minwax.

satin lacquer is the key if looking for satin look. Deft spray works well and is easy to do.

Fir wood is the correct typing. Yes larger blade as well as a skip tooth blade is helpful. Less adhesive will also help. All good points.

I would just be so worried by that grabbing the piece and either breaking delicate frets or throwing for a spin. I have always just used my Porta Cable bloc sander. But I also always use #5 FD penquin silver reverse blades. Those couple reverse teeth are enough to knock off fuzzies on the back and the sander does the rest. Good luck with your new tool.

Ray thanks. I have been doing this for quite some time and have scrolled my share of projects. Working with a lathe now and then I am trying different things there. I love making pens and have a ton of ideas for them. Sometimes I combine both hobbies. Hope I have a few more years left in me to get some ideas done.

I use a branding iron which I think I shown in one of those links. I never put a date on any item and never will. I make items to sell and if they do not sell one year they appear every year till they sell and who knows when that can be. Would not want people seeing an older piece and then they want some discount or say something about the date. What difference does it make when it was made. just an opinion.

Kevin if you are going to use lacquer then I suggest you dip in blo and not Danish oil. Poly and lacquer do not play well together. You can adjust the sheen by satin, semi-gloss and gloss lacquers.

Kevin Danish oil is a mixture of mineral spirits, poly, and blo, and driers. Formulated to manufacturer. I love Watco and have used it for all my years. It was some 15 years ago I believe (could be wrong on time line) but Watco stopped making Danish oil when all the rage about environment. They got such a calling to bring it back that they did so with a slightly different more friendly mix. I have some of the old stuff left and use the new stuff and I notice the difference. But with that said I always dip and if I spray it will be either a Deft lacquer or a waterbased lacquer if doing large projects. I never use poly. Makes it look plastic. Lacquer has the properties to burn into each layer and thus no need for sanding between coats and it adds depth not layers of plastic. Blo is that plus mineral spirits to thin it out and help absorption into woods. It will always dry dull because no poly in it. As you probably know also wood choice can determine luster, plus sanding to a higher grit plus blade used to cut project. These are factors in all projects you make and maybe some people do not realize them. Wood--- tight grained wood will allow for less absorption of oils, open grained wood will allow more. Soft woods will dull more as opposed to hard woods such as oak. Blades--- the more teeth used when cutting will leave the grain smooth and closed more so than a course blade. Need to find that happy blade. Sanding--- the higher the grit the more you close the grain and less oil allowed and can polish easier. I use red oak for most of my projects and sand to 220 grit on all projects and use a #5 FD silver reverse blade on most projects. I also use a Watco satin polish on most projects to give that soft luster and feel. The frets are closed so they do not dull much but are not shiny either. I like the look. Not sure if any of this helps. Good luck.

1-1/4" dowels and cut to thickness. Use walnut and maple or mahagony and maple. Add design if you want to. Can scroll it in or if you have a lathe use that. You can use a circle cutting jig, a router or scrollsaw them out. Use a router to add design. Use a rosette cutter for design. That is about what I have for you. good luck.

WHAT???

I cut with razor knife.

If I have a blade that still has life left in it I do as Kevin does, have a bunch of extra clamps and just leave in a clamp and place it in the package the blade came in. I use very limited amount different sized blades so no problem storing them. I always keep blades in package they came in. just nip corner off top and take out blades as need be.

Ray when milling your own lumber there is more to it than just running through a planner. From what you said I believe you have a Delta lunch box type planner as they are called. Not sure if it is a newer model or an older model. Weather the roller blades ride on a 2 post system or a 4 post system. But they all produce snipe of some sort. This is where the drum sander comes into play (you can plane close to desired dimension and sand the rest of the way thus eliminating snipe marks)or you can just cut the ends of the board to rid the snipe marks. The proper way to plane a board down is to alternate the sides when planning. In other words take the same amount off both sides of the board and this goes for using a drum sander. If you take all material off one side you released the stress within the board and it will warp toward that side. If you take off material from both sides of the board you balance the stress levels. All wood has internal stress. Now to address the snipe situation you need to have the board remain level going into the planer as well as coming out at all times. Any dipping when entering or leaving will make the snipe marks more pronounced. Most planers come with attachable table extensions. When used they must be level with the planer bed. Some are add ons and some are just fold out. Now sometimes this is not long enough when doing long boards so some other platform is needed to support both sides of the board. Can be a set of roller helpers or even a box set at exact level with planer bed. As mentioned by others, grain direction is important. You want to plane with the grain and not against it or you will have tear out. You want to take lite passes and not try to hog off too much. Yes you can plane to 1/4" without much problem. I will say this that is alot of wasted material. If you had a bandsaw capable to resaw your boards that is what I would do. You then can get 2 boards out of a 3/4" thick board and much less work on the planner. Good luck.

OK I will tell you but now I will have to send my people out your way It probably is one of the best kept secret web sites for craft parts. I do not see it mentioned much. www.NationalArtcraft.com I also visit the craft stores by me such as AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, and Michaels get lots of ideas by just walking around there at times. Thanks for the kind words too.

I use to just throw them out. But recently I started throwing them in a container because I also make pens I tried using the old blades for casting into a pen blank and came up with something like this. Hopefully I will at some time make some more and with different ideas but so many irons in the fire.

There really is no reason for VS on a jointer. It is a sales ploy and is found on table top models. The idea is to match speeds with material you are jointing or planing. You now see planners with 2 speeds and this is for harder materials to slow the speed down so it does not burn the wood. In a jointer if you are using plastics it maybe a good idea to slow the speed down. To me the correct answer would be to accommodate different materials is to take less material off in a pass. The speed control on a jointer is not the same as a router. It will only control speeds from half the full motor rated speed. I suggest Kevin eliminate the speed control and run full out. Very easy to do just bypass the board and wire motor direct. Surprised the motor company did not suggest that to you especially on a small jointer like that.Maybe looking for a sale and is not really an up front company. Every tool in the shop can hurt but every tool in a shop does specific things and if you learn to use them properly and learn safety they are there to help make the hobby more enjoyable. You need to respect each tool but not be fearful of them. kevin keeps making a comment about kickbacks on a tablesaw, there are only a few things that can cause them and they all have to do with contact with the back of the blade. Fence not parallel to blade or slightly opened, splitter not being used and wood gets pinched when being cut , wood comes away from the fence as you advance it through the blade, or short pieces getting trapped and launched. all can be avoided but again attention to what you are doing and knowing the hazards before you operate any tool. Pieces can be launched from the front of the blade also but this cause is because they are small and a zero clearance plate is not used to prevent the pieces from falling into the saws kerf when being cut. I have said this before, to me the most overlooked tool is the router and its potential dangers. This tool can hurt by launching pieces and also grabbing you in if feed direction is wrong. Also open bit spinning at high rate of speed and many times people do not slow the router down to match bit size and potential dangers there. be safe out there.

Kevin you need one of these. You won't get hurt. http://static.axminster.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/7/0/700199_xl.jpg

You can use many combination of woods. Here are some keepsake boxes I make that have that same design but smaller for jewelry and rings and things and also some desk clocks that have that design of stacking rings. I mix and match many woods and I finish in my Danish oil dipping.

Thank you Ray. I can see why you got good reviews on this. That came out real nice. The two woods had enough color variation to make it pop. Whenever a finish is put on raw wood it really brings it to life. You did a good job on this for sure and thanks for showing here. Those are fun and easy projects because you can stack cut a few pieces at a time. I will caution you though, use a good quality glue and do not be skimpy. Glue before finishing too. So my point is be careful if you plan on staining layers before gluing. Basically the strength to those are the nibs. I can see why others will want these. Make a nice candy dish or place for some flowers. Now get to work and keep up the good work.

If you have a tablesaw run the edges on that. You will get just as good an edge if you have decent saw.