JTTHECLOCKMAN

When buying aftermarket fences you can get a right hand or left hand fence where the markers are printed on the rails or a tape is added. Most cabinet saws tilt left.

One of the nicest projects I have seen posted here. Absolutely beautiful and the craftsmanship shows through. Labor of love of the project for sure. When doing a project like that time means nothing. A++++++

THAT IS IT JIM!!!!!!!!! Bingo. Now I can sleep nights again. When I get things like this in my head I do not let it go till solved. PHEW, thanks.

Looks Kevin. There is so much military things you can make and they all sell well. I will be trying the retired military route in the future and see how that plays. Thanks for showing.

Well another tablesaw question. I love these. As most people have mentioned the big thing is more room on one side of the blade than another. This could mean a big difference when cutting large stock. But the rule basically is the fence should be on the side of your dominant hand. If you are right handed then right side of blade. You always push the wood with dominant hand for best control.. remember you not only are pushing ahead but also keeping the wood riding against the fence. You always use a push stick closes to the fence for control. Now here are a couple of instances where this does not hold true. Tilt of the blade----- Never tilt a blade into a fence, always away. You do not want to trap the scrap piece of wood between fence and blade this leads to all kinds of trouble mainly kick back. So you like me will have to put fence on opposite side of blade because like me I have a right tilt saw. It maybe awkward when cutting but this is where your kean senses take over and all safety measures are needed to be followed( always at all times too) I still use push stick with right hand and just let the piece fall away on the other side. Now another thing comes up and I do it on my saw so I must be aware of it when I switch. Most books and instructions for fences tell you to align the fence with the blade front and back. But in the older books the method was to align the back of the fence about the width of a dollar bill folded in half away from the blade. The idea and it makes sense is to avoid pinching and thus burning of wood when ripping. You relieve the tension some in the back side. If your saw has some degree of runout this shows up more so than people realize and they can not figure out why they are burning edges. f your saw was setup this way this can become an issue when switching sides with the fence. My fence is easily setable so not much effort for me. Also if you are switching the fence from one side of the blade to the other the fence needs to be parallel with the blade of slightly adjusted as I mentioned. Just because it is done that way on one side does not mean that fence is true and the same only reverse happens on other side. Always good to check with reference to the blade. So not a cut and dry answer as you see. There is some knowledge needed when doing this. It becomes second nature if you do it alot. Now if you have a left tilt blade you are golden and I hate you......

Nice work as usual. Expect nothing less. You do keep busy. Great job and I do not think I have sen them anywhere.

That was the name of the site and as I said it was a real good one. The problem Kevin is as I get into this again so many more ideas keep popping in my head and I will not have enough time to get alot of them done before the shows but will push forward and try to get some relevant ones that I think will sell well. Trying to change much of my inventory once again. I do this every so often because people get tired of looking at same stuff. Will continue into next year with more ideas and will continue to make some changes. I will have to go into the archives and see if I have her messages and also look at patterns she made for me. Possible her sign-on name is on something. Hey if at some time you ever get those patterns downloaded from that disc I would like a copy. I could send you a flash drive to copy to. I know it is a down the road thing but keep me in mind. When I pass I sure hope my family does not throw out all the stuff I have and sells it off or even give it away to someone who can appreciate it. I put my brother in charge of my pen turning stuff and gave him a place to get rid of it and make some cash. Thousands of $$$ in that hobby too.

I am having one of those brain melt downs as I am trying to think of her sign-on name. I can see it in front of me but the brain is not cooperating.

Kevin I remember that site There were many different groups on there before Face Book took over. Sylvia was one of my favorite people who did patterns and she was fantastic. She did some patterns for me back in the day. You are right there were many more pattern makers out there on various sites. I believe this is about the most active site any more. Got the wrench clock done today and have to say those teeth were a challenge for sure . Also started the Navy plaque that someone posted recently and that will have some time in it. Took me about an hour to cut all the insides of the chain on that one. But the chain is what sets this pattern off. Also just thought of a couple more ideas for clocks that I need to try to make. Hopefully I can do these myself but may have to get a pattern helper. Getting back into this has sparked some desires again. Was also thinking I should order another one of those tension handles again to have a spare because I have really been working the saw hard these days. Love my RBI.

Very nicely done. The plumbers clock is up next tomorrow for me to make. Just getting done with a carpenter one. We need more of these type clock patterns out there. I have done many military and they always sell well. I like to put the American flag inserts in them.

They do limit the height of the blade. I have one but do not use it. Thin kerf blades would benefit with them but if you do not push the work too fast you should be just fine.

Lots of questions come to mind to give you any kind of reasonable answer. Are these signs subject to the elements Are you planning od keeping the oak natural or are you painting Going with a plywood backer is this going to be marine grade or waterproof Are you open to other options

If you are going to frame it maybe a green felt or painted background with some poker chips scattered around it. Either real chips or even scrolled chips would be cool.

I like this project alot. Well done.

Ray yes wetting the cupped side can but not always take some of the warpness out. The thing is to wet the cupped side but let it sit for about 15 minutes or so. Do not put weight on it right away or it will crack. After the water has soaked in then either clamp it flat or add weight so that it sits on something flat. Let it thoroughly dry before using. Now this wood will have a tendency to cup again depending what you are doing with it. If you are cutting fret work from it will help release the inner tension because of the holes. It would be worth the effort to mount on a solid backboard.

Good choices Kevin. You will see the difference. What makes Freud such a good blade company is all the information on their blade and packaging. Tells you everything you want to know about the blade. It shows you the teeth configuration so you know what they refer to when they say triple grind tooth or flat grind or alternating grind. Keep the blade clean and it will last a long time. Just use a blade cleaner or some liquid dish soap. Use to be Simple green was the big cleaner but they have found it is too corrosive and will eat at the welds. I like the Freud line of blades. Reasonable in price, well made and balanced, and carbide can be sharpened many times. There are so many types of blade on the market and if you are into extreme woodworking you can hone in on exact blades to use other than that combination blades get the job done. Have fun and always practice safety when using any tool.

Yes. The owner is in NJ and used it. I have one and it is an excellent production saw that will outlast the owner.

Ray I say this with respect, I would not do it on a constant bases. Certain times when a thinner kerf is needed it will work. But those smaller blades are not designed for the rpms generated by a tablesaw. The carbide is not as good as a full size blade because these are framing blades. Throw a piece of carbide in some hardwood will not be pretty. The flex in those blades is something that needs to be contended with. (heat will build on those small blades because of speed and amount of times the teeth are in contact with the wood) That video is an accident waiting to happen he had a board climb out of the blade depth that could have cause a kick back. I would not show that video to anyone working in the woodworking business. Too many do not dos in there for my viewing. Any tablesaw weather a tabletop or full size would come with a small blade if they were designed for it but they do not. They come with a 10" blade unless it is a smaller saw. Get yourself a nice quality thin kerf blade and be safe.

This is what sucks you in. Price. I live in NJ do know where Hewitt is but if I did not have 4 saws already and a 18" Hegner I would not hesitate. I may put a bid in at $200 and see what happens. Man that is a deal. Surprised no stand if he paid that much. There are 4 saws on that page ranging from $500 to $600 Man today just shop around and you can get a great saw for 1/3 the price.

The difference is the teeth configuration. A normal rip blade has FTG teeth (flat top grind) Designed for easy ripping and removing material. In a glue line blade they are more designed to rip also but with a cleaner edge because they use 3 different teeth FTG and TCG (flat top grind and triple chip grind teeth) Both have deep gullets and more hook than crosscut.

I do not agree with that guy totally on many things but will address the smaller blade. First do not get overconfident of a smaller blade as opposed to a larger one. Any spinning blade will cut you and yes kick back can happen on any saw with any blade. I have used the smaller blade on my saw also but do so because of the thinner kerf I need and nothing more. The blade he kept referencing which was a larger blade was a full size blade made for belt drive saws.Table top saws do well with thin kerf blades. Small blades like the one he shows will wear out faster than a full size because those teeth need to move through the wood more often than a larger blade. A blade does not get raised more than 3 to 4 teeth above work surface you are cutting. Never more than that. (Of course there are some instances that is not the case) A larger blade will have larger carbide teeth than a small blade like that. Larger blades are balanced better than smaller ones like that. Those are designed for skil saws. Skil saws are construct saws and perfection is not a concern. Cutting hard woods you want a solid well tuned blade. Tablesaws are designed for 10" blades.

This is very true and I mentioned it to Kevin in my write up. The trunion set-up on a belt drive saw is much more accurate and allows the blade to be raised higher. Belt drive is so much better in many ways.

Oh Kevin I see you are stepping up to some manly tools. Well I will add my 2 cents worth here. The difference between belt drive and direct drive is simple. The motor!! In a direct drive motor it is a universal motor such as all hand tools have and they have brushes. A belt drive uses an induction motor, no brushes. universal motors are noisy and require maintenance (bearings and brushes) Much lower HP rating (never compare HP rating of universal motor with induction motor, not comparable) Tablesaws with those motors are bench top saws. They are noisy and whinny. They can not handle cuts like a induction motor because of less hp. They get hot when worked hard. The way the blade is attached to the arbor of the motor makes less cutting height and use of a blade. The blade can not protrude through the table as high. Being they are tabletop models, less weight and this means more vibration tranfered through blade from motor. Could cause chatter marks on cuts. Induction motor tablesaws. Higher quality of saw. Belts take out vibration Much quieter. Motors do not run as hot. More working HP. More blade usage because you can raise it higher. Motors last a life time. Only come full size because the way the motor needs to hang. Much more weight with cast iron tables and better inners. Can get these saws in a full Cabinet saw, Contractors saw, or Hybrid saws which is basically a combination of a contractors saw and cabinet saw (smaller footprint than cabinet saw but combines features of both plus cost less) I own a Delta 10" contractors saw and it is and always be my work horse and tool that gets used the most in my shop. Every single project made in my shop has touched the tablesaw in some way. I own a Craftsman table top on a stand saw that I leave out in my shed and use for quick projects that do not require precision. I was forced to buy it because of the price. It was on closeout when sears was closing stores in my area. Built my shed with it but do not use much. Have any specific questions be glad to add my thoughts. I tried to give a general overview as to main differences.

I wish I had a dedicated out building for a shop and space would be no problem. I would have had all the latest and greatest tools. I am a tool junkie.But I work out of a basement shop. I have managed to fit quite abit tools in there and still able to function well. It is nice to have full size toys and walk over and use whenever the need comes up. But they made bench top tools for a reason and yes things can get done using them but there are drawbacks. You make work with what you have. The one thing is not to compromise safety. I have a Delta 6" full size and love it. Use it on every clock I make. We can talk routers when the time comes up.

Why would you need variable speed on a jointer. Only those table top jointers have VS. Any light weight woods just take less of a bite. That is how you control speed when jointing.