JTTHECLOCKMAN

Sapele is indeed in the mahogany family. It is very nice wood to work and used alot in the furniture industry.

Ray I usually do not paint my work but I have a few plaques that will need backers and I would like to paint the backer and then glue the overlay on it. I am thinking ordinary Titebond II wood glue will work but if someone has used something more proven then I will try that. I may have to set up a few test pieces for this. I will be using flat paints and top coating with a satin lacquer. Some projects I will have have the ability to tape off certain areas so it would be wood to wood contact but some I will not be able to do this. So it would be wood on a painted surface.

I posted this question in the painting thread but was afraid it may get lost there so I started a new thread. A couple people answered there and I thank them. This question has to do with painting scroll work and glueing. Those that paint their scrollwork, do you paint it before you glue?? Or do you glue and then paint?? Basically the question is designed around layer work or box making and things of this nature. What type glue do you use and if it is a brand what number or formula is it?? I usually do not paint my work but I have recently made a few projects that have various layers and I want to use a painted backboard on them and thus the question. Thanks in advance.

Dave any particular type???

Question?? While we are on the subject of painting projects for those that do paint, do you glue the pieces together before you paint or do you paint and then glue the pieces together??> If you do the second then what type glue are you using and do you find it to work well and not have items break free??? Does it matter if the paint is one kind or another when gluing?? Thanks in advance.

http://www.wood-database.com/african-mahogany/ http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-6-in-x-2-ft-FAS-Mahogany-S4S-Board-5-Piece-Case-OL2321920/207171189 Looks pretty darn close. It is the only mahogany cheap enough to make it to their shelves. Many ,many years ago they use to sell another species of mahogany called Sande wood. I made my entire shop from it including cabinets and woodwork. That was a nice wood to work with They got away from carrying hardwoods because people would pick through and all the gnarly stuff was left and wasted. Guess they found a better supplier. I will have to look to see if my Home Depot even carries hardwoods.

I made note of this place in your other post so I will check it out. I asked in that post also but will ask here as well. Have you ordered from these people and if so what type quality of product?? Also how is the service and delivery system?? Thanks again nd excuse the redundant questions.

Always looking for new sources of lumber of any kind and this place looks interesting. Have you ordered from them before and what about quality of product?? Also how well do they deliver?? Thanks for the link.

As mentioned already soft nonferrous metals can be cut using a scrollsaw. Many people cut coins with a scrollsaw. Metals like stainless would be very hard to do I cut brass and aluminum with no problem. I use Jewelers blades for I find them to be the best for this. Some dealers sell metal cutting blades and I have not tried them all so can not comment on them. I have included a project I cut the brass for from some brass door guard material and it was about 3/32" thick. cutting is slower than wood. It is also a dust that needs to be cleaned regularly Do not want metal filings contaminating other wood projects. I also highly suggest that you use a wood backer of some sort to prevent scratching and wearing grooves in your table top because just like wood and fuzzies on the back you will get metal fuzzies Good luck

The truest red wood is bloodwood but the stuff today that they call bloodwood is more brown than red. True bloodwood is deep red and is an exotic oily wood and hard to scroll because it will burn easily. I am lucky because I use to have 2 hardwood dealers within 25 miles of me. One has since shut down but the other still has a great supply that I can look and select through.

That wood in that photo looks like redheart. Mahogany is not a true red wood and the best mahogany is unavailable or just too darn expensive to use and that is Honduras Mahogany. I stopped using it many years ago as the price rose. I substitute Sapele for Mahogany now . African Mahogany is the one used alot these days but again has become limited in supply . Those are the ones with some red color to it if that is what you are after. Sapele is harder and denser It is also heavier. But machines well. As with all woods over time they do change colors and some mahogany's will get a muddy red color. Not sure if this is any help.

I order from Amazon also and very happy with product. Straight and flat, no voids, fast delivery. I use to buy from hardwood dealer but a couple years ago he had a fire in his shop and never reopened. So now I am forced to buy on line. I do not use alot of BB but it is nice to have on hand.

Thats good. I know those saws and most scrollsaw operate better with less vibration when sitting on a solid surface. Saws with 4 legs like that are designed to be spread out just right to absorb vibrations. Good to hear you have no problems Happy Scrolling.

Les I know we all are stressed for more room but a question for you. Do you pick up vibration in that saw being you are on wheels like that??

Thanks Tony and again very well done.

The roll pins are hollow as you well know so less mass as opposed to solid pins. All the ones I have are roll pins and just pressed in. In fact I moved a couple to get them centered more so equal force applied. The solid ones maybe manufactured all one piece and not a dowel that moves.

Beautiful Tony. I too have this pattern and in fact I have many pieces cut withe frame made. I did not like the combination of woods I used thus I never finished because I need to recut that large center piece again. I planned on using stain glass for the boarders and background. I like the contrast in yours. Could you explain what woods went where. I can guess but it would be better to know for sure. I have made so many of Dirks patterns over the years and he is truely missed in the pattern world. The one I am most proud of is his I Am The LIght Of The World Cross. Job well done and thanks for showing.

Maybe this has been an issue and they made a change. I believe if that roll pin is turned just the right way when you apply pressure the slit will deviate some. Over time it could bend. Being solid will give more mass so it may not deform. Saw has been running great since I made the change.

I do not do compound cutting so can not address the tape issue. I would suggest you take some sandpaper and round the edges of the blade hole. The sharp edges maybe catching the tape in cutting into it somewhat. That is about all I got on that one. Good luck.

All aspects of this is great. Job well done. Thanks for showing.

yea that is one of the more modern ones. I bought mine when they first came out so no fancy stuff on it.

Kevin you will absolutely see how much dust it will collect. A dust collector is only good for collecting bigger particles. That will collect those nano particles that will get in your lungs. Have had mine for over 20 years and have changed the main filter twice since I had it I have vaced it out many times but there will come a time you need to change the filter. Not sure what kind of primary filter is on that one but mine is a plastic mesh so I am able to wash. The secondary filter which is the main one is cloth pleated. Some of those the primary filter is a basic air conditioner filter so easily replaced. When I got mine I noticed the air flow was a bit noisy so I lined the inside with some foam to quiet it and worked well. My big thing is I have a low ceiling so I more or less put it over the work table and won't get in the way. But I did put foam padding around the edges just in case. Now they only work well when you turn them on!!!! Mine comes on the minute I turn the light switch on and depending what I do in the shop I will leave running for an extra hour after I leave. As I mentioned in the other thread I am going to put a timer on that thing some day.

No the pressure is up against the roll pin because without that ,that notch does nothing. Tighten or loosen that pin is in play big time. If that pin is rolled with the slit straight up and down that is when it will have a tendency to bend. Look at it closely and you will see what I mean. If you took that pin out there would be no way to tighten the clamp. So the pin is actually the lever That notch has become worn too over the years. Newer ones fit more snug. Probably a combination of the wearing of the notched area puts more pressure on the pin. The arm has no wear on it. They do work in tandem so That definitely is the problem. I may revisit this at a latter time and take some photos. Right now I am pressured to get many projects done in a month and a half.

This is the first time I ever seen it mentioned in all the forums over the years. It was just a matter of luck I guess. As soon as I changed those clamps in question all has been well and I have completed about 5 more projects since. When I go to order the spare I may just talk to the rep over there and see if they encountered this before. I could actually see why it happens though because of the stress put on that pin when you tighten the blade. No getting around it. Maybe I am a little strong about tightening but I feel it needs what it needs. You can actually see the deformation if you look closely. Those pins are split so they will give some in order to get in the holes but that can work against them in this case because they are used as a pivot point on the arm. Anyway if anyone has an RBI file that away for a possible problem. As I said I had these for quite some time. I had replaced them over the years once before but for just getting extras. Happy scrolling.