JTTHECLOCKMAN

Same to you and all here at the best scroll sawing site on the net. Be safe and do not get lost in all those after sales.

By the way Kevin you can buy just about any wood dowels. Over the years I bought walnut, cherry, paduk, maple, rosewood, oak and a few others. Now that I have a lathe if i need something special I just spin it.

There are so many ideas you can make doing drink coasters and the sky is the limit. My suggestion for this group is the walnut base with maple dowels. I would make the base small enough so that the coasters fit on a diagonal and not parallel to the base. In other words all corners of the coasters fit between 2 dowels and hang off the base. You could have used one dowel in the center and drilled center holes in the coasters and stack that way. That is a good way if making round coasters in the future. That wood is indeed Bubinga. It will darken over time.

Lebron is dead on. Nice work all around.

I prefer Danish oil and the dipping method as well. But if I am top coating it is always with Lacquer and not poly. With lacquer no need to sand between coats and dries quickly so adding coats can all be done in a day. I have been using satin alot these days but have done things with gloss as well. I agree about the sanding but I only go to 220 grit and find this to do well for me. Good luck.

Sorry wrong post

Erv so true man. Mother nature made that material and it has a mind of its own. That is why in furniture building you have to compensate for wood movement at all times. No different in what we do too. When doing fret work you do release some of the internal stress though so that helps some.

It all will become so easy you could do it in your sleep. Even if you walk away for awhile it comes right back to you. You start to learn all the little tricks too and as Ray said take the pattern off and no one sees the lines any more. Looking good.

I can see that Kevin. Do it a few times and it become second nature though. Like anything, practice is needed. Ray makes a very good point about drilling entry hole on the same angle as cutting or else the beginning of the cut will get all goobered up. Good point Ray.

It adds that personal touch and it gives your product some showmanship if that is the correct word. Shows you care in what you are doing. I always include my business card for any item I sell but have to say in all the years I have been doing this I bet I can count on one hand that card had a play in a sale. I have people pick up my cards at shows all the time and ask myself I wonder what they actually do with them because they go onto the next vendor and do the same. But they are out there. 1000's of them

This is basically what I was saying and I agree with Bill. I also do the double bevel cutting style and can tell you even your sideward pressure can make a difference when cutting because what happens you start to overcompensate because the table is leaning and you are not used to it and want to try to straighten up but you should not and let the blade do the cutting and just steer the wood. I use doublesided tape to hold the pieces together. I do not do much of this any more but it does make for some nice projects.

Wow Dave you made me look at the name. I bought that thing so long ago I did not remember and still do not remember where I got it. But all it is is a plastic portable one that is so easy to use and set up. It is by Edgewood and I believe I bought it from Rockler or Penn State Industries and am thinking the latter because that was where I bought my dust air cleaner and i think I bought together. I have included a link to one by a different company but looks similar. I use my 4" dust hose and it has a metal screen with a perforated rubber non skid sanding mat that lays over the top. Any dust not collected with dust collector can be vaced out. It does not take up alot of room so that is why I went that way. Today there is utube videos and plans to make your own which are basically a box of any size you choose and a piece of peg board on top. You can buy those perforated sanding mats from any where. They work well if you have a good dust collector. I have a seperate hose that I use for various portable tools such as my 12" planer and Belt sander and I use that hose for tools like that. Quick hose clamp and easy to use. https://www.amazon.com/Platte-River-Collection-Collectors-Dustless/dp/B007NL0WC0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1542640159&sr=8-15&keywords=downdraft+table These look so similar that I believe that is the company that took over for edgewood..

I could not function without a tablesaw. I guess it all depends on the type work you are doing. Good luck Kevin. Show us some of the stuff you are making and selling.

This question came up not long ago and the consensus was yes on the wetting. but I will tell you from woodworking for a long time you will not eliminate it. The tree it was cut from may have had stress points in its growth cycle and there is not much you can do. Hopefully after you get flat and scroll it, the fret holes will release some tension. But a more stable backing maybe needed when done.

I too bought them at a woodworking show from Peachtree woodworking. Cost is not everything when it comes to having tools work well and safe. Those are abuy once and not have to ever again.

I do all my sanding outdoors with the sander. If I have to sand indoors I have a downdraft table that I set up and works well. I love that sander and would not be without. I had to replace the pad once but it does it all because it does not leave orbital scratch marks.

Keeping things warm and rust off tools is an important objective when dealing with work shops for sure. May have to put on some help. I know a person who use to sub out some cutting to other scrollers. I use to do part time work for a furniture restorer and he would call me if he had some scroll work that needed replacing. It was a little added income back in the day. I did some fancy fret work on a mirror he was restoring and it was made of cherry and boy that was a pain to cut out without burning. As it turned out he was aging it anyway to match the other furniture so I did not have to be as picky as I did. Wish he would have told me that. Good luck with the sales. Means economy is doing well and that is always good news.

At this rate we are going to see a shop full of new toys. I see a Nice 16/32 drum sander in the future with a 6" jointer, throw in a 16" bandsaw, a 12" planer floor model, custom router table, a Jet 1220vs lathe, and a few other small tools. We will help spend that extra cash for you.

They are good for taking vibration out from the motor. I have them on my bandsaw and tablesaw. Worth the investment.

I have many different sanders including orbital but this is my go to sander for everything. I have a couple of these and they work great. Any delicate items have been sanded with this sander. It is a block sander by Porta Cable. https://media.toolpartsdirect.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/54db668a51db726605bee154e6a83c77/3/3/330_3.png

My suggestion is to do practice runs in some scrap wood that you are using. I say this because every wood cuts differently. Every blade cuts differently. Practice to see what way is best to cut with the table tilted one way or other. Practice which way is better for you to cut right or left. All this comes into play and practice cutting the stacking of dissimilar woods. Again just my thoughts.

When stack cutting BB or any plywood you have a couple things that you are trying to overcompensate for Different grain direction This what gives plywood the strength. All that glue that is used to hold those layer together and it is a different glue than what we use. So speed is reduced and also blade life is greatly reduced. As Kevin said there is that fine line where you can save time by stacking so many and actually slowing yourself down too much where you could have cut them faster with less in a stack. Stack cutting is where we can make up some $$$ in the end. We do not tell anyone about this secret though.

Ray you say the wood is cupping. is it cupping on the 5 inch wide side??? What are you planing on doing with it?? I ask because if that wood is cupping now it will always want to cup. you maybe able to flatten some and hopefully when you do the fret work it will take out some of the tension and keep it straight. But who knows. Be careful wetting oak because it will turn black. Good luck and keep us posted.

I have about 18 routers so do not ask why. As far as saws yes if doing a business you can not afford to be shut down for any length of time. I am on the outs of my business venture and moving on because getting to old and the show circuit is not like it is and hate doing online selling. That is a huge hassle and the Gov. is making it worse. But also I have 4 saws and all were gotten with a price you could not walk away from. But glad I did have them.

Weather does play a roll if doing shows and we are at Mother Nature's mercy. Better luck at future shows.