JTTHECLOCKMAN

I like the design aspect to these. Something different on the market. Wonder what it would look like if there was a mix of woods. What is the wood you use over there?? I have to try some of these patterns. I took a quick look on your etsy site. Is that the only place you sell?? Are there any examples of any other colored wood or painted woods by you or other artisans using your patterns that you have to show?? You seem to use this light colored wood and that maybe for a reason. Thanks.

I like this project. This came out well. Tricky doing things like this because of the old days the heat of the light bulb caused warping and misshaping. Now with the LED lamps less heat and more of this is possible.

This is good advice and I would like to add to that statement in that finish those scraps the same way you do the final piece in that sand to same grit. Sanding a piece can change the look of a piece very easily. The higher the grit the more closed the wood grain is and thus lets less stain in or finish sealer.

Ray many people use denatured alcohol to get a feel for the color the wood will be if oiled. Some people will use mineral spirits. If you use rubbing alcohol it has more water in it and could raise the grain of the woods. I won't go into the many varieties of basic shellac, dry, liquid, flakes, wax unwaxed,. But again if using for food you may want to consider it for your final finish. Good luck and if there are other questions I can help with I will try.

Ray I meant no offense about the point of we discussed this. I thought you took that advise and went ahead to finish it and it was done. Ray there are so many oil finishes out there and on top of that there is various versions of each. Just because it says tung oil it may not be 100% tung oil and have additives. I can not go into them all because that would take days. I suggest you do a google search such as this one and it explains some differences. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/understanding-oil-wax-finishes/ Again it is not fair for us to tell you what to do and how to finish. I told you my preference and I would use Danish oil alone. You will not want a sheen with the end grain cuts like that and whatever sheen you get on the flat top is a bonus. If it is to be used for food then you may want to consider other food safe finishes. All though when Danish oil is dried and cured it is food safe. Trying to spray even coats in all those nooks and crannies will result in pooling of finish I guarantee it. But if you want a quick light coat then have at it,. This is all I have for you on this subject. Sorry.

You won't. 1/8" smallest. There are some China sets out there that claim they have a 1/16" brad point bit but I would like to see it and do not believe it. Big name tool manufacturers do not make them.

Not so much a recall but like with cars there were bulletins out to dealers and repair shops about the Dewalt 788 when they were changing from Canada to China. They knew about the table hole being off center, they knew about the table not locking down, they knew about the clunking noise, they knew about the table not being level front to back. You take that saw to any Dewalt repair shop and they knew right away. RBI had problems with their motors and thus so many versions were made over the years and they knew but there was no repair shops for them so that was an in house problem that they knew about. 2 saws that I know about.

No I do not usually. Clocks do not get handled much and Danish oil has enough poly in to seal the wood so it is not needing protection above that. Now if I am looking for a glossier shine then I will spray lacquer. Either water base or nitro. I need to add something though I usually will polish the finished product if it is flat with Watco satin wood polish to give it even a nicer sheen. Those boxes and that type clocks of course I can not do that. Those just have Danish oil on them and they look great. Basically what are you protecting from?? Top coating is just a look. Protection would be if used outdoors or if project is used in wet areas. Finger prints that is nothing to be concerned with in projects we do.

You should always back up your project with a scrap piece when drilling any holes. Prevents blow outs as long as the piece is secured to the backer.

Ray I thought we walked this path before and you shown that same basket. I agree with alot of what Bill said. I will again probably repeating things but. The difference between Danish oil and BLO and mineral spirits is that Danish oil has drier in it along with Polyurethane. BLO does not. unless you add it. But when you do then driers come into play because the ingredients dry at different levels and times. Manufacturers have this stuff calculated so you are better to buy original. Many companies make Danish oil or the like and call it something different. The final look is exactly the same with the 2 except that with Danish oil there is more of a sheen because of the poly. I love the look and that is why I use it all the time. With BLO no sheen at all. Dull finish but will enhance the grains of wood and add a warm yellow color to woods. With light woods like maple that can be OK but if you want a clear finish than stay away from all oils. You want a waterbase product. But now you get into grain raising and that will be a pain when talking a project like you show. Spray shellac can be used but again no sheen unless you use many coats and to spray in all those nooks and crannies, that would not be my choice. Top coating. Either Danish oil or BLO the use of poly or lacquer can be used providing and this is big that it is completely dry and cured. Not just dried but cured. I love lacquer because it leaves wood looking like wood and not plastic filmed. Again I do not use shellac for a finish. I use it for a seal coat or a barrier coat betweens dissimilar finishes. Dipping is the easiest finish to apply and that is why I like Danish oil. Can not screw it up. Small container and brush on is all you need to do but make sure it gets in all nooks. I have Danish oil by gallons so I pour in a tub and dip real easy. Not sure what else to say. Here are some keepsake boxes I make that use that same technique of ring stacking and they were all dipped in Danish oil and I use all sorts of woods including maple and oak. Also some clocks with that design and yellow heart is used alot. People love the finish.

It is a drug. I hear you.

This technique is good for wood burning designs. Not used much for scrollsawing.

That is it for you Melanie, no more coffee for you!!! We can not have these mistakes here. Someone take her coffee cup away.

Have to ask where are you seeing word art8?? Not on his site and it is not in the Word Art catagory on his site. I thought maybe he added it today or something. It is not on his pattern site.

Jason, if you use the proper blades for your project there should never be any sanding needed for the fret work. There may on occasion need to sand a bump down or something like that and people use needle files and some use emery boards if you can get in the area. Water stains do not work well with plywood or any fret worked wood as a matter of fact because it raises the grain. I too use only hardwoods and I am a huge Deft Danish Oil user. I have a container where I pour the oil in and just dip the project. I mainly use natural color. It is not clear but has an amber tint to it but for my projects it is perfect. Danish oil comes in colors but it does get pricey. I do not top coat because being I use hard woods I sand to 220 grit and when dipped the feel is a nice smooth luster and feel. No sanding after is needed. People do paint and some top coat with lacquer or poly. I will let them speak to that.

His patterns are free.

Interesting concept. It needs to be pointed out that it works only with laser printers and also the odor from lacquer thinner is potent so be aware of that. Many ways to get things done for sure.

Your lungs will thank you.

It is not on his site. Maybe it was in his blog at one time. Being that photo is a straight on shot it would be very easy to copy for a pattern.

Thanks and Yes and I ordered a few patterns from them also. The problem is when I go those sites I end up spending more money because I always find something else that catches the eye. I like to take patterns and rework and add or subtract things. I will be busy throughout the year for sure. I have the feeling back starting last year and after the health problems. As they say" I AM BACK BABY"

yes I did and emailed him to get a price. That is one elaborate train. Maybe someday. Thanks.

I knew it had to be something else. Beautiful and thank for the link. You will probably see this flag again Going to order a few That is reasonable price.

Edward I like the idea of the felt. Gives it that extra touch. You do not see this often. I am sure that is being well received. Thanks for showing. Also sorry for jumping in on the topic of felt and flocking. It is your post and deserves the accolades it should get. Sometimes things take a turn. sorry again!!

Yes I did. I entered them in a contest over at IAP penturning site. Took first place with the pool table and second with the Piano the last 2 years. Working on a more stable entry this year. Not so over the top. I like creating things.

There some work in that piece. Nice work and thanks for showing.