JTTHECLOCKMAN

You can use Steve Good's set up too if plunge drilling is needed.

Center of a cirle why not make a dot put the point of compass on it and draw the circle to whatever size you want. Without photos that is alot of reading and not being able to follow. Do not know your woodworking skils and tools either sothis will be tough.

I like that project. Looks good. Nice job.

I suggest you make overlays. This way you make the urn the size you need to and do all the detail work. Then have a pattern made if you do not have one and size it to fit weather all 4 sides or just the top. Make it from thin woods, acrylics, or other materials. You could paint it if you choose.

Sure does look like a knockoff. Wonder how they get away with that. Same wrench and everything.

I use these type staplers for the backshttp://www.stapleheadquarters.com/picture_frame_staplers I use one that shoots points not nails.

I use Satellite CA. I do not use the accelerator but if need be I use their recommended product. Not all CA glues are the same as well as not all accelerators are the same. Some people are allergic to the stuff so be aware of this if using use it in a well ventilated area. They sell odorless and they sell flexible CA depending on what you use it for. In pen turning world we use it a s a finish top coat on pens because it is strong durable and takes a shine well. Do not store the CA near the accelerator and as mentioned do not spray it where the bottle is. The tap trick works. If you keep in a cool dry place no need to put in fridge unless you do not use for a long time. Wipe tip before putting cap back on. They sell those tipp caps separately too. http://www.caglue.com

There are so many of these saws out there and it was a good thing someone took the time to make a video to show the workings and the procedure to take apart to do a maintenance thing on those saws. You do not see this for other saws. Or at least I have not. Glad you got things working in top form again and you did not have any extra parts laying around. Hate when that happens.

Well then if it works for you then keep doing it. I have never oiled mine.

Sure seems like that notch would weaken the blades. Not liking that design. Maybe they are redesigning and that is why they are not available and what is available is older stock left on the shelves.

And that is why there is no maintenance on the saw except what Kevin mentioned. Not many people will even know how to take the bearings off. If you could and it seems you were able to then grease is the best way. If you add oils then you flush the grease out or contaminate it and make it less useful. . They are not made to be oiled. What each saw uses I have no idea. Probably the lower end saws use cheaper bearings and they need oiling. Have no idea. But the Hegner and RBI do not. The Dewalt is explained in the video. But again to do the maintenance you need to do the bearings must be removed. Those bearings in the upper arm are low stress bearings because they do not spin.

Oh, well that is a different story and I am not aware of that because I do not use those blades. Hope you work things out.

Roger I do not use it on scrollsaw bearing. Most scrollsaw bearings are enclosed and sealed and should not need lubrication because you are not going to be able to get any in anyway. Usually when bearings go on a scrollsaw they need replacing. I mentioned the use of that stuff for ball bearing items such as router bits. Scrollsaw bearing are mainly needle bearings and the best lubricant for those is grease. A good quality grease made to take heat. Many times bearings like that get repacked but if sealed you are not getting apart. Now that spray is good for pivot points that rub and I suggested to someone instead of taking his bearings out to try some of that before he removes them He is not going to be able to spray in there. It is better than oils if there is no reservoir for the oils. (motors are different because they have a reservoir to hold oils. ) What scrollsaw are you referring to??

Very nice cutting Rob. Nice smooth lines on the turns. That takes some practice.

Yes Ray same thing. The Hegner is metal. Why that has never been upgraded is a mystery because they do become stretched and what happens the clamp can slip to the notch that you do not want it in which is probably the more aggressive cutting mode. I know right away if that happens so I move it. But with the spring steel one it rarely happens, unless I set it there from the get go. Not sure what the new saws have and Kevin will give us all a report when he gets his new saw.

Kevin a man of your caliber should be able to figure the cutting the blade thing. I keep a pair of diagonal pliers next to the saw and after the first cut I instantly know how much to cut off. If you do not get down to the exact MM it is not going to matter on the Hawk. You over cut a smidge it is not going to matter. try it and do not be afraid. All you do is install in lower blade as you normally do and with the arm down lay the blade against the clamp and shoot for the top pin on the clamp. Could not be any easier on the Hawk. Now is that enough to get rid of the bad ends you talk about I do not know because I never used Pegas blades and have no intentions. Love the FD blades.

It could have been many things that led to that. I see it alot in my trade from turning a screwdriver. My Brother had it done. Need to make some better blade clamp knobs.

Mine is the year they went to the square blade holders so probably around the same year. Never did any maintenance on them and they run like a clock. Can not say enough good things about those saws. If you find one in that range Ray and is a decent price give it a try. As with all saws they may need some getting use to but nothing drastic. Outside of the tension lever, blade clamps, and those silly plastic blade holders that I made a spring steel one for replacement, nothing has been replaced and many many many hours are on them and more to come.

Again Kevin it is possible I guess but I too get my deliveries by DSL and in fact have to sign for them when they arrive. How she is doing something we can not get to happen with everyday vendors here in the USA is amazing. There are times when vendors over in China have factory outlets here in the USA too. Whatever the case that is good service. China vendors are subsidised by the government for shipping and that is why they can offer free shipping and low shipping rates so you can not compare them to us or Canada. Every business platform is not the same and they work off of what they think works for them. No such thing as a cookie cutter business platform. You see it in your web sites and the different places you sell. The thing is if you have good success with a business then stay with them get screwed and move on there are always others selling the same things. To your moving up to 2" inserts is just a matter of enlarging the patterns you use by a small margin. I do it all the time. Sometimes there is enough room within a pattern to just make a larger hole. I agree sometimes it throws off balance but that is where enlarging the pattern comes in. Maybe it is because I am getting older and seeing a larger clock face helps me and that is my way of thinking now. Not sure what it is but I sure am stepping up alot of my patterns these days. I may have to make a large order for 2" inserts from China soon. But again I do not do the volume you do so will have to see on this. Good luck.

I just took another look at the pattern I bought and the proverbial wheels started rolling. I think I can just take one of the geared wheels and make that a separate pattern and enlarge it some and add some detail items to it. There is more to these patterns than meets the eye. I can even make it into a clock. Man the ideas keep coming. Will have to work on color choices too.

If you do decide to make the clock maybe keep a running photo album of the build. I know many people do that when they do the Dome clocks. Lots of wood in that project. At one time those large clocks were something I wanted to try also. But got over it because I have no room for something like that. But add a light package and they are something to marvel at. Today with LED lights easy to do. Hope you add some stained glass in it too. Good luck.

Well Kevin have to say you did good on clock inserts one week from China?? ( I do not believe it) because I have 2 orders in right now in China and one is for an X Y table for my drill press and and for marbles, yes I said marbles from china and will not get till end of Jan. I just got a shipment of billiardballs in from China and it took 4 weeks but when I placed the order they said between Jan 25 and Feb 5 Ordered Nov 15 and received in 4 weeks after. I have no idea how China deals with shipping. I have plenty other examples of items ordered from China that took real long and others that I see within 4 weeks. All items I plan on long trip times. Never have I gotten something shipped from China in one week. I too order inserts from there. You must be special. You should have to deal with Penn State Industries. No matter what day of the week you order their orders go out one week later. I deal with them on occasion for pen related things. Don't bother emailing them better to call. As I said it has been some time ago I ordered from them. Maybe someone else can answer to it. Hang in there. On your order of clock inserts did you start bumping up to 2" as you said you would?/ I have started doing this.

Good eye Kevin. You really must know what you are looking at when buying a second hand saw plus need to run it through its paces unless it is a ridiculously low price. Same with any tool with motors and moving parts.

Holiday season Kevin. May have to cut them a break. I have ordered from them before and can not really recall how long things took but I planned on being a little extra long because of location.

Is it a type#1 or type #2?? Should say on the label. Do you know how many hours are on the saw?? Knocking is not a good thing but can be overcome. There are videos on how and what to look for. It was posted here not long ago. Will have to look for that. It is a 4 part series and shows everything about that saw. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=video+of+how+to+take+a+Dewalt+788+saw+apart&docid=607991385635949302&mid=3B91AE534679124A612E3B91AE534679124A612E&view=detail&FORM=VIREH