JTTHECLOCKMAN

So you sent her coasters and she sent you a sled. Got it. Nice job on the costers and nice work on the inlay.

Love the card clock top shelf. I also like the military Those are a Berry Basket Pattern from way back. That gives a better view of your items and I agree it will help customers.

Use plastic buckets and be sure to take off the metal handles. That is what I do.

Do not like any of that stuff. Open for hacking at any moment and you read about this stuff all the time.

So you are saying Etsy is not set up like ebay where Paypal is the source of currency exchange??

This is something I too will be doing this summer to get ready for fall shows. I want to make astep display also to get things more to eye level than I do now and that is have everything on one plane on the table. I need a easy break down system too and I will be making something similar to that. Thanks for showing and good luck with it.

I know not what you want but for me it is simple because I deal with them face to face at a show. I always change the battery right in front of them to give them a fresh battery those batteries will last over a year. I show them how and also tell them the instructions how to take the insert out and how to change time is written on the bottom of the clock. Have been doing this since I started. I also tell them if you can not do it take it to ajewler and they will change it usually just for the price of the battery. In your case as you sy the % is so low I would not lose sleep over it. But you can make a note somewhere that to change battery or the time you need to pop the insert out. I always take those little plastic holders off because even for me they are a pain. You ship with a new battery and they do not have to worry about it. I like to make sure the insert is working too. I also tell my customers that insert has a lifetime warranty and never had one come back to this day. Had one lady tell me she bought a clock from me and the insert did not work. I right away noticed it was not an insert I sell but i replaced for free anyway. Price of doing business and keeping customers.

She has a unique artistic talent for sure. She uses Mother Natures coloring of woods to her advantage. Many hours in those pieces for sure. There are many more artist out there like this in many different fields and they stand above the rest of us. What we do is introductory level stuff but remember there are those who can not even do that and they look at our work the same we are at this artist's. So do not put yourself down. I always marvel at the pattern makers that make us look good as true artisans. She was given a gift and she is sharing that gift for sure.

I also use it on my pens and small things that are turned because it is real easy to polish out on a lathe. If i want shiny on a wood project lacquer is my choice. Kevin you could use that for your key chains instead of epoxy resins. The thing is this stuff smells and people do get an allergy when working with it. Needs good ventilation or use the no odor stuff. Little more expensive but for those it is worth it. need at least 2 formulas but maybe even better with 3. Thin to seal wood, med to build coats faster and thick to build coats even faster. But with each there is dry time and it increases with thickness. Now they sell n accelerator that when sprayed on cures the glue in seconds and you can move on and use more coats in one application. something to explore. There are many brands out there but suggest you stay away from Stickfast. gets bad reviews many times. I use Satellite CA glues. (hot stuff)

I use those link belts on my tablesaw and really do work well. The problem with those on a drill press is they are bulkier and if your drill press has 2 sets of spindles they could get in the way of each other. Easier changing a one piece belt on a drill press when changing speeds. Ebay has a few dealers that are selling them. I am sure they are interchangable with the many clone drill presses being sold today. I too recommend that PB blaster it does work well

Jim you are correct and I just did not want to get into too deeply because most people understand differences in voltage more than frequency. But it would be a concern for me if I saw that. Remember there is electronics involved with the speed controller also.

Wow to do that kind of work on a dremel is pretty amazing. I guess you do not need a high $$$ saw to do work like that. Impressive to say the least. keep up the great work.

I did that clock many years ago and I can see why yours was well received. Nice work and thanks for showing and welcome to the site.

You my friend have every right to be proud of that work. You are a seasoned vet at this. What saw have you done most of the work on?? Do you still have these pieces?? How long ago did you do the dome clock?? I remember when that first appeared and it was all the rage and everyone was doing them. Then they found out quickly you need some room for those. Job well done and thanks for showing.

I agree with Kevin that is a worthwhile saw to look at and also a great price. Looks like it was well kept if they bought a cover for it. I get a little weary about the voltage conversion with the transformer. Whenever you do this there is a risk of the voltage not quite matching the motors ratings. Not sure what RBI does but many companies will set a tool up for the place of use and that is a motor to match the users needs. In the USA we take this for granted all the time. An older thread from here that may interest you.http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27754-rbi-vs-hegner-and-are-they-worth-the-upgrade/

Had to be from a Patriot fan. I guess it is OK.

OK Don we elect you to do some more patterns. That is great. Thank you. and Thank you for future ones.

Very nice. Care to share the pattern if this is yours??

No problem Les. I just did not get the drift of the discussion I guess and we went into top feeding on the RBI and it is not possible at least not without alot of modifications. If i am doing a large project I have to stand anyway to cut it out because I can not spin the piece with my body in the way. So it is easy to bend over and see the holes anyway. I always use a larger bit if I can get away with it. Never a standard size for me. Alot has to be the area being cut. If i have a large area why struggle with a tiny hole. Anyway good luck. I learned something from this thread anyway. I have a Boss.

I just got my order of napkins in so after Feb I should have some time to play around with these. I too got the so called cocktail napkins that are 5" square. Will see how these work out. if they come out like yours I will be happy. Thanks for posting.

Does that saw allow for both top and bottom feed??? OK yes give us a detailed report on the new saw. Not that I am ever buying another saw but for my own interest would be nice to hear an experienced scroller talk about it. I bet Hawk would love to hear the report too from you. Again back to Rocky you still can not top feed on the saws we have no matter how high the arm goes up. Another inch of height is going to make that much of a difference just does not register with me unless he is talking something totally different. Hope he weighs in here because I think we are both guessing what he is talking about. and his intentions or desires.

I have the first picture saw. Have the bolt and rubber sleeve. I understand the principle behind top and bottom feeding But my saw and anyone else who has that saw it is not a top feeding saw. Can not be done with accuracy and thus they came out with a new saw and I have no idea what they call their saws now. As far as bottom feeding large projects, how often do you do that? A blade will flex so much that you can easily thread in any hole. I have been a bottom feeder all my scrollsawing life and have scrolled all size projects including ones bigger than my saw would allow but you adapt. So I am having a hard time following Rockys question. If he is going to top feed with that saw he will not be able to do it. You have to have a device to hold the arm down to play games with the blade holder underneath. Again I am not following this whole thread. Back to you Kevin, you are saying on the saws that had the round holders they did not have that (boss) or stop??? I have cut on those saws before I bought mine which is an ultra but I have no idea what the newer saws are called. Have to look it up. Aren't you buying a new saw or did buy one??

Ok I had to go take a look and have to say I had no idea that that was there and knew nothing about it. On mine I have a bolt that is drilled through the frame and has a rubber washer on it to prevent the arm going higher. learned something today. and they call that a boss??? I suppose if you take that out the arm can rise as far as the spring lets it. I suppose you can redrill the hole and move the bolt to adjust with height. My saw rises to 5" to bottom of clamp and table top closer to the second photo. Now armed with this knowledge what is the question and why is this an issue?? How does this affect top feeding and bottom feeding?? I am going to assume you want the arm higher yet to top feed. If so take the bolt out or redrill. But that would be such a pain to fumble under there trying to catch that bottom clamp. The newer saws that bottom clamp is fixed in a more stable position to thread the blade through.

The video did not work so what you are saying the old saw as you call it is pre?????? I assume I have an old saw because I have that much room. Not sure what that orange block is in the last photo so I am guessing that is a newer ultra saw. Those saws are designed to cut both top and bottom feeding??? I am not following this line of questioning here. I need to go back and reread.

I think it serves well. Here is a photo.